[mark]

Where should I take my family on holiday this summer? We are now stuck with having to go in the school holidays so everywhere is expensive, busy and hot. Requirements are good beaches for the kids and decent bouldering close-by for me to escape to for a couple of hours a day. And not too hot, as I can sunburn near powerful lightbulbs. Any suggestions?

Ploumanac'h in Brittany is the best combination I know of but I've heard the bouldering isn't actually all that good. Anywhere better?

[Fiend]

Gargheugh Point, Galloway.

Portleven (SP!), Aberdeen.

[SA Chris]

I wouldn't call Portlethen a beach, by any stretch of the imagination. Porth Ysgo is more of a beach than that. There's some good stuff around bude as well as down around Gwythian. Do a site search for Cornwall Bouldering for more info. There's loads to be had up in Scotland too; Oldshoremore, Sandwood Bay, etc. Some in South Wales; Ogmore, Porthcawl and Gower.There are some nice beaches around Reiff too, Beware the midge though. Worldwide, Seychelles looks good, and there is some good stuff on Llandudno in Cape Town, but water is a bit harsh for swimming.

[gr]

If you want sand but aren't to bothered by having the sea then Font of course. Kids will love Disneyland too...

[Pantontino]

The very same conversation has been occurring in my house this last week.

I went to Brittany last summer and was disappointed with the bouldering. Maybe I missed the good stuff, but I did have a good look around.

Have you thought about Corsica?

Just googled these two links for Turkey:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=134
Akyarlar is 25 minutes from the campsite at Geyikbaýrý and is situated directly on the sea front. It is a relatively small (around 20 routes) but a nice climbing area situated in a beautiful bay. The rather steep rocky footpath down to the bay frightens most non-climbers, which means you normally have the whole bay for yourself. In summer it is the perfect place to climb, boulder, bathe and to hang out. With the first moves you are faced with boulder problems on rocks washed smooth and rounded by the sea, after that you'll find climbing on vertical walls.


http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=13
From the Dedigol our next main destination was the hippy hang out beach life on the south coast at the tree houses of Olympos. Based in our teetering tree abodes we set off down the valley and put up numerous new routes on the steep limestone walls. What grabbed and kept our attention though was the fantastic beach bouldering and deep water solo's. If you can drag yourself off the beach there are loads of areas developed up and down the coast from here on the highly featured tufa packed limestone. Check out the Antalya section of the brand new Turkish climbing site at www.climbturkey.com.

[fatneck]

You need not look any further than the beautifull Lleyn Peninsula!

Fantastic, quiet beaches next to excellent venues like Porth Ysgo/Porth Oer. It's relatively well placed for accessing Cae Du as well as the more inland areas (Llanberis Pass, Ogwen Valley etc).

Add to this the fact that the weather is often much better than elsewhere in the country due to the special micro-climate of the Lleyn and you have an excellent package.

I must admit to being very biased and would rather have family holiday's in North Wales than anywhere else in the world. That said my kids love it as well so it's not just me!

Check it out!

[IanP]

As someone said if proper quality bouldering is your aim then Font is possibly the best option.  Plenty of sand, kiddy circuits and Eurodisney for the children.  

I've also had some good fun in south Devon (south Hams) - a lovely beach at Mattiscombe Bay with some suprisingly enjoyable bouldering and Dartmoor bouldering within 1 hour day trip.   The South Hams area has very nice beaches in general particularly if the kids are young.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

You need not look any further than the beautifull Lleyn Peninsula!

I've got to agree with Fatneck, the Lleyn is great. Personally the drive to the Lleyn is short enough for a long weekend, or even a two-dayer if the surf's up! Theres a wide selection of good campsites from the most basic (where you'll find CLM and me) to super posh ones with static caravans and shops and stuff. The beaches are immense and you'll always find a quiet spot even in the height of summer if your are prepared to walk a bit.

Cornwall also has a lot going for it, but the beaches tend to get busier, and its a pain in the arse to get to on most summer weekends.

[Ru]

Not a sea beach, but what about the Ardeche/Chassezac in France. Known for it's roped climbing, there's actually a large amount of bouldering there within walking distance of the campsites by the river.
Lots of pics and a pdf topo here:
http://membres.lycos.fr/castelbloc/

[Johnny Brown]

Gotta agree, the lleyn is amazing, its still one of my favourite places and one of the only areas of the uk that never fails to impress foreigners. Plus Porth Ysgo is the only place I go bouldering in summer.

[Falling Down]

Another vote for the Lleyn from me... I virtually grew up there as a kid.  It does have a better climate than the rest of Nth Wales and there is loads to do.

Porth Oer and Porth Ysgo for Bouldering.

Hells Mouth, Ceriad and a few more secret spots for surfing, body boarding and kayaking.

Sailing and Windsurfing at the other main beaches.

Great snorkelling on the Rocky North Coast.

Some great pubs and resturaunts.

The mountains are only an hours drive away and it's easier to explore the western reaches of Snowdonia that are much quieter than the honeypots.

[fatneck]

Good photo JB!
There's more here;
http://www.lowefoto.com/konica/page37.html
Hopefully hitting Porth Ysgo for my birthday day out at the end of the month (am on my knees three times a day praying for good conditions).
Can't wait :!:  :!:

[SA Chris]

That is indeed a money shot.

[fatneck]

Sort of weakly still on this thread, just found a pretty neat little video.

Top left on this page http://www.boulderingvideos.com/videos.html

Not quite enough bouldering, but awesome looking venue!

[Johnny Brown]

Go on then here's another, from the opposite direction.

[mark]

Cheers all, some good suggestions here. My responses...

Scottish venues
I grew up in Edinburgh and am aware of the 2 big problems with Scottish holidays: rain and midges. Would be doing well to convince my wife we should head north rather than south.

Font
Off there for a week at Easter. Have spent a few days in the forest in the summer and the frustration of poor conditions was too much so don't think I'll be lobbying for a summer holiday there.

Corsica
Went there a year and a bit ago. We had a fantastic holiday but I thought the bouldering was poor. Valdu di Saltu had a dozen good problems but the rest were about 2 moves from a sit-start. We did have one day at a place by the sea in the extreme south of the island.  It's called La Punta or Capineru and is very good. Unfortunately about a 2 hour drive from our villa so we didn't go back. The island is gorgeous. We had 2km long beaches completely to ourselves. Plus I drove 2 stages of the WRC Tour de Corse. In a Renault Espace.

Turkey
Too hot in summer for those of us with the pasty gene.

Lleyn
We went there last summer. Had a great time. First time I'd been and was impressed. Beaches were lovely, though I'll take a wetsuit next time. Could be the winner.

Devon
Went there two years ago and I wasn't impressed with the bouldering. Plus it's just sooo busy in the summer. Bloody tourists clogging up the roads with their overloaded sensible family cars full of stir-crazy children screaming, "Dad, are we there yet?" Oh wait, that's my life nowadays.

Ardeche
Hmm, hadn't considered that. Some research required. Anyone been?

Thanks for the suggestions. Keep them coming.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

but awesome looking venue!

Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands ...not a patch on the Lleyn!  :?

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Ardeche
Hmm, hadn't considered that. Some research required. Anyone been?

Think CLM was there a couple of summers ago...he liked it, plenty of river activites to replace the beach fun, not sure about the climbing.

[SA Chris]

but awesome looking venue!

Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands ...not a patch on the Lleyn!  :?

Looks uncannily like

Except waves at Llandudno are better and the water a hell of a lot colder.

[Pantontino]

I automatically assumed that you wanted guaranteed hot weather, so didn't mention the obvious delights of the Lleyn.

The Porth Oer cave is the ultimate family bouldering scenario. 15 problems up to V6/7a and some harder projects to play on if it's windy (i.e. dry). Next door to a small sandy bay which has a steep runnel access which deflects most of the tourists on to the busy main beach (which also has a cafe if you fancy a brew/ice cream break). It can be damp on muggy days, but I've never been and not climbed. I might put a topo together if I can find some suitable photos.

I'm just reading a great book called The Rotters Club by Jonathan Coe - the family in the story spend their holidays camping on Cilan Head. I think it's an omen: I'll see if I can persuade my missus to just stay local this year.

[c.j.d.]

Do Not, I repeat, do not listen to the font of knowledge.  Ploumanach is awsesome.  If its good enough for Fred Nicole, Sebastien Frigault, Olivier Lebreton and Steve Haston, it must be pretty good.  It is however, a big place (4-6km of coastline all covered in pink granite (Le Cote de Granit Rose).  As Panton says (and I have had this conversation with him) he may have gone to the wrong place.  I stayed in Trestrarou and walked pretty much the whole coast line (I got just past Ploumanach).  I got home and found that there is alot of stuff at Tregastel right at the NW of the peninsular.  If you want more info give us a PM and I'll point you in the direction of some Grimper issues (will have to look these up).  I did however, do loads of quality bouldering, developed and adventure style.

[mark]

Do Not, I repeat, do not listen to the font of knowledge.  Ploumanach is awsesome.  If its good enough for Fred Nicole, Sebastien Frigault, Olivier Lebreton and Steve Haston, it must be pretty good.  It is however, a big place (4-6km of coastline all covered in pink granite (Le Cote de Granit Rose).  As Panton says (and I have had this conversation with him) he may have gone to the wrong place.  I stayed in Trestrarou and walked pretty much the whole coast line (I got just past Ploumanach).  I got home and found that there is alot of stuff at Tregastel right at the NW of the peninsular.  If you want more info give us a PM and I'll point you in the direction of some Grimper issues (will have to look these up).  I did however, do loads of quality bouldering, developed and adventure style.

Very interesting. I was under the impression that it looks great but is all a bit crumbly. If that's not the case they I'm keen. Particularly if you can direct me to this...

[Pantontino]

I saw that problem. It did look cool, and there was a fine looking despy thing round to the left (Fred's 8a I think?), but apart from one or two other lines dotted around, that was it in the vicinity.

CJD must've been on the wacky baccie. :roll:

[Jim]

Me and some mates went to cote de granite rose on cjd's article that he did in ote. its pretty good if you want to go on holiday and do some climbing (not visa versa tho). There are even a couple of bolted routes there!
There is plenty to look at. The granite is large grained and often covered with some sea moss of sorts that is easy to clean. It can trash your skin somewhat. I went with the misses as well in sept (ie not school holidays) and got a mini house thing at the big campsite fairly cheap for a week.
Best probs I did was some highball thing that I can't remember were it was ,lie down start to the ufo boulder and sit start to beau arete. I will post up some piccies tomorrow if you want.
I've been twice and will prob go with the misses again (but I wouldn't take the lads)

[Control freak]

Ardeche
Hmm, hadn't considered that. Some research required. Anyone been?

Think CLM was there a couple of summers ago...he liked it, plenty of river activites to replace the beach fun, not sure about the climbing.

Theres plenty of sport climbing in the Ardeche but not sure about bouldering. Its probably not too great unless your into soloing 500foot 7As.

Another possible venue is nice. Im not sure what the bouldering is like but theres definitely some about. I think I bumped into Mr Swann a few years ago on the ferry over and he was headed out there with his clan. Definitely worth further investigation