[shark]

No one's mentioned anything about the bouldering, is it all choss?

Seems to be a matter of personal taste. I thought it was great. Nice setting, great guide and good lines. Lot of funky compression and heelhooking type moves. 

[Grubes]

I loved the bouldering maybe more than the routes but was on a routes trip so did not do too much.
The grand wall boulders are pretty well shaded by the trees issue can be humidity thought as the air was quite still when I was there.

I can not rate summer vacation enough. Lovely high ball V0 well worth doing even though the grade is low. I remember looking at it thinking that is high and only having 1 small mat then started climbing. I only realised at the top out how high it was and how my mat was in the wrong place. it jus climbed so well and the moves were so much fun.

Sure this is a controversial statement but I enjoyed the bouldering there more than font and I love font.

However I can see why some people would not like or get on with it.

[Tommy]

I thought the bouldering was terrible. Not enough cracks.

[SA Chris]

Not enough holds! As shark says lots of compression / heelhook / lip traverse type problems. Which might feel minging in the warmth.

[AndyR]

No one's mentioned anything about the bouldering, is it all choss?

After 10 years here, it's still one of my favourite places to boulder - you will need 2 pads, though as our resident cultural correspondent noted above, the place is usually crawling with yanks in the summer and you will likely find yourself in a ten-pad posse if you're trying to project some of the more popular lines.  Temps in the boulders (apart from Apron boulders) stay surprisingly good as they're in the shade - trying super friction dependent problems may not be best option, but there are lots of classics with holds.

Grand Wall boulders are great and there will be lots of people around for beta - I prefer the North Wall boulders this time of year - better temps and fewer folk. Get the latest Bourdon guide and you won't go too far wrong.

[johnrebus]

The bouldering's brilliant, top quality rock.
North Walls to avoid crowds on the weekend, although on hot but breezy days Gwall is often better - N Walls usually get less breeze.
Top problems excluding all the obvs one's by the trail:

Ramen Raw - this is fantastic
Reckoning
Resurrection
Land that time forgot
Phantom Power
Tim's Arete at the Sherrifs badge trail
Be On Four

Re. food, Kozo id decent for a change from the imperious Sushi Sen
Crabapple in Brackendale is nice for a quiet meal
Fergies is great for breakfast if you ever head out to the Paradise Valley boulders (they're worth it)
If you drink coffee skip the Zephyr and go to 1914 - infinitely better.

[36chambers]

Not enough holds! As shark says lots of compression / heelhook / lip traverse type problems. Which might feel minging in the warmth.

compression/heelhook/lip traverse is completely my style.

I can not rate summer vacation enough.

Just watched a clip of it. It looks incredible, definitely on the list. Thanks.

Cheers for the North Walls beta John and Andy. The Reckoning and Phantom Power are both already on the list. Just about to look up the rest. I got a copy of the latest Bourdon guide recently and I'm very psyched now.

[Sasquatch]

Ramen Raw - this is fantastic
Reckoning
Resurrection
Land that time forgot
Phantom Power
Tim's Arete at the Sherrifs badge trail
Be On Four

All fantastic and fairly good landing most of these.  Be on Four is a GNARLY Landing.

To add in:
The Fuzz - a bit out of the way, but well worth it.
Mantra
Viper
Trad Killer
Crackhead
The Rookie (easiest v8 you'll ever find)