[DScuffle]

I was browsing OTE 52 (I think) and noticed some news about "Sean's Roof" F8b+ Blackwell Dale, and some news about "The Bastard" rubicon.  It was suggesting these were quality routes and would get a fair few repeats.  Did they?  I don't remember hearing anyone talk about Seans roof outside beyond someone soloing it.

I'd go and repeat them myself, but I'm crap at climbing.

Also, it mentioned the holds being "chipped" when Ben Moon came close to freeing "Free that you bastards".  What was all that about :?

[andy_e]

is sean's roof the one that there is a picture of ben moon belaying sean myles from his 205 gti?

[dave]

don't think sean's roof get much attention what with it always being wet and minging and the fact that cave gets filled with car detritus and branches. plus i think we have wetter summers these days than in the mid 90s, so it probably dry less often than back then. plus limestone in general is a bit out of fashion with some parties. personally i think seans roof looks pretty good if it was ever dry and clean for any period of time it could potentially get popular. think theres also some more recent problem (welford?) on the left side of the cave.

didn't the bastard get done by the krankenfuhrer recently? wasn't it chris craggs who knocked the holds of it/zeke?

[andy_e]

jordan looked interested as we drove past it.

[DScuffle]

Chris Craggs was something to do with it (the route) according to OTE, I didn't think he chipped the holds though.  I wouldn't want to bring up any old "bad blood" but does anyone have an idea of why it was chipped :?:

[dave]

jordan looked interested as we drove past it.

I'd love to see JR and andi-e matched up in a head to head name-drop-off. Last man standing.

[andy_e]

jordan looked interested as we drove past it.

I'd love to see JR and andi-e matched up in a head to head name-drop-off. Last man standing.

he'd win. i only know jordan.

[dave]

jordan looked interested as we drove past it.

I'd love to see JR and andi-e matched up in a head to head name-drop-off. Last man standing.

he'd win. i only know jordan.

aye, in much in the same way barry george only knew jill dando.

[chappers]

[grimer]

As far As I know...

Chris Craggs put up an aid route at Rubicon called Free that you Bastards, as the holds were so small it was impossible to free. Ben Moon quickly did all the moves on it, went away for a bit, and came back to find that an Angry Aid Climber had smashed off all the holds to mahe it unclimbable. Ben found a line to the right, and climbed it as Zeke the Freak. John Welford, then, in his sport climbing days, later freed the original line as The Bastard, given 8c, and reputedly very hard for the grade, that has only been repeated by Steve MacClure.

Sean's Roof was bolted off the roof of a car, and was Sean Myles' project. I was with him once, and we went to see if it were dry, and he was amazed tio see that an Angry Aid Climber had turned his attention to his project, and smashed holds of it too. After this, he lost interest. Jerry later climbed this at the same time as things like Progress, called it Seans Roof, and it was repeated by Malcolm, later by Mark Leach, who later went and soloed it as, according to OTE, 'The Hardest Solo in the UK!'.

[dave]

aint rich simpson done t'bastard recently innit?

[DScuffle]

Aha, thanks grimer.

It's funny how little traffic (as far as we know) this has had, I remember reading about it and desperately wanting to go and try it (the enthusiasm and self belief of a newbee eh), now I have a car and can get to it, I'm a lot heavier and not very fit.    Still it's got to be worth a play.

Has anyone got any photo's of the crag where it is :?:



Oh and on a similar topic, did anyone ever repeat John Dunnes Total Eclipse at Malham.  The last I remember hearing about it was the broken undercut when Jerry was trying it.  But JD reckons his method remained unaffected :?:

[cofe]

germany 9a has done bastard innit?

sean's roof offends me.

[DScuffle]

germany 9a has done bastard innit?

I assume your not referring to Mr Bock.

germany 9a has done bastard innit?

sean's roof offends me.

I'm sure it doesn't mean anything by being there, it never meant to offend anyone :?:  :?:

[DScuffle]

P.S Why are our avatars dissapearing :?:

[cofe]

i can't see my avatar either. a crying shame.

[a dense loner]

quality, can't believe jordan's expressed an interest

[Bonjoy]

I've oft thought of having a play on Sean's, but it is usually wet till late season (by which time i've lost all the winter bouldering juice) if it drys at all.
 Zeke is left of the Bastard by the way Grimer. Good job you're not a guide writer or owt :wink: .
 There is actually another cave on the slope above Sean's with a bunch of highballs/one bolt classics to do, if anyone can be arsed...

[Ru]

Sean's roof is wet for large parts of the time, but another main reason it doesn't get repeated is that the first move is a 4ft reach off bad holds, to bad holds - font 7c+/8a maybe, not that I tried it that way - I don't think I can physically touch both holds at the same time. There is a shorty sequence on worse holds but I've never seen the holds dry, ever.

[Doylo]

quality, can't believe jordan's expressed an interest

jordan who?

[dave]

incidentally if anyone other than andi wants to meet jordan then you'll be glad to hear that the meadowhall christmas lights are being turned on this year by jordan and peter andre. Great chance to see the nationes two favourite and most recognisable public figures. And peter andre.

[dobbin]

It must be either that strong Jordan who did some hard and dangerous grit routes (sirname forgotten) or perhaps Jordan Ramsay, celebrity swearing champion  :wink:

By the way, it was a Golf GTi that Moony had, not a 205. Tsk.

[Andy Harris]

Sean's roof also repeated by Mr Welford after weeks/months effort on the 1st move.

Interestingly Malc actually did it 2 times in a row (without rest) and fell on top move on the 3rd lap. Mr Heap's swears this is one of the most impressive feats he ever saw.

Myself and Roy gave it a go this summer when all holds were dry. 1st move is big and hard (oooer) and I'd say Font 7c+/8a. You then get this most amazing sidewards dyno to the big pod which is simply one of the best moves on peak lime (and hence anywhere), match hands and foot in same pod, string yourself out into a full body lever of justice and hold the massive cut loose(I reckon you could end up in the oppsite carriage way so you definately need a car spotter). Beggars belief that it can be 8b+, although I think a small foothold broke for 1st move. I'd say burly 8c.

[andy_e]

It must be either that strong Jordan who did some hard and dangerous grit routes (sirname forgotten) or perhaps Jordan Ramsay, celebrity swearing champion  :wink:

By the way, it was a Golf GTi that Moony had, not a 205. Tsk.

i could have sworn it was a green 205 gti, much like this:

(except green... i couldn't find a green one :roll: )

Jordan Buys you were after

[a dense loner]

jordan buys what? a green gti?