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Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2100409 times)

tomtom

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Superb! A climb-Bong would be pretty impressive. Especially on Vogager SS...

tomtom

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Brilliant video by the way - it's brilliant because of the characters and how you get to know them is fun and engaging. Hearing the encouraging, the jokes, the disappointment etc.. is just more entertaining than a thin bloke twiddling about to some loud music...

lemony

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"Where did that come from? Ye've got a hole in ye finger y'eejit!" is a particularly great line.

Nibile

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Loved the Voyager video, mostly because it features 1) a monster 2) a very clever guy 3) board climbong 4) heavy one arming.

Fixed.
Re-fixed.
 :2thumbsup:

petejh

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Voyager film is the best I've seen in ages - had it all!   :thumbsup:

jfdm

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One man and his dog, really liked this.

Danny

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Loved this. Thought the dog was going to punt him off the topout!
One man and his dog, really liked this.


fatneck

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This is superb and free...


fatdoc

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very impressive indeed. nice one!

thirtytwosrule

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Both very good! Awesome dog!

They gave Tetris 7b+, I'm interested on a vid should you give a problem the grade you believe it to be or go with guidebook and logbook consensus etc.

There may be others in there different but that one stood out. Also like the fact they tell you where stuff is. Little thing but I like it.

Good work!

Kingy

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They gave Tetris 7b+, I'm interested on a vid should you give a problem the grade you believe it to be or go with guidebook and logbook consensus etc.


I don't think there are any hard and fast rules. They thought it was 7b+ so graded it as such. They obviously have a huge amount of experience of climbing grit problems in this style. The bad thing about logbooks is that the grade can't be changed by anybody other than the moderator. Hence we get wrong grades being perpetuated for years. I guess just because somebody logged a problem on the UKC database doesn't mean they agreed with the grade. Maybe they inwardly disagreed but because there was no option to change it they just took the grade anyway?

thirtytwosrule

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I think my problem is I am overly strong at certain types of problems, I thought Tetris was super soft but mainly because it suits me. Still 7a+s out there I can't do. However all the guide books and votes for grade on UKC for example give it 7c or soft 7c. I feel if I put a video together and put 7b down for it I would look like a tool but that is probably where it sits for me in the problems i've done maybe 7b+ at the most.

Still the hardest I have ever tried on a problem was The Gutter at the Roaches. Gets 7a+ but definitely felt harder than 7bs and 7b+s I've done. I can't give that 7c in a video and down grade everything I felt was easy.

Just want to point out I'm not having a go, I do think Tetris is soft at 7c and from talking to very experienced people it does seem to be a common feeling. It's just think it's interesting. If I gave my grade list of problems it wouldn't be anything like the guidebooks.

sdm

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The Gutter gets 7B in one of the guides, can't remember which one.

I thought The Gutter felt hard for a couple of goes when I was working out a decent sequence, then quite easy once I'd found the knack. There were four of us and we all used completely different sequences.

I've had a couple of sessions on Tetris and haven't got anywhere.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


Andy W

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This is superb and free...



The soundtrack was overpowering and completely distracting. Probably my age though  ;)

dave

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The soundtrack was overpowering and completely distracting. Probably my age though  ;)

Same here. Throwing some heavy bangers over climbing footage does not necessarily a good film make. Must have cost em a bomb to clear all those tracks too.

Tetris I can well imagine could feel 7b+ if it suits you and in good nick. Felt 7c ish to me, but I only bother driving to the roaches on nice days, and as soon as the sun is out on that block all bets are off.

Danny

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I think my problem is I am overly strong at certain types of problems, I thought Tetris was super soft but mainly because it suits me. Still 7a+s out there I can't do. However all the guide books and votes for grade on UKC for example give it 7c or soft 7c. I feel if I put a video together and put 7b down for it I would look like a tool but that is probably where it sits for me in the problems i've done maybe 7b+ at the most.

Still the hardest I have ever tried on a problem was The Gutter at the Roaches. Gets 7a+ but definitely felt harder than 7bs and 7b+s I've done. I can't give that 7c in a video and down grade everything I felt was easy.

Just want to point out I'm not having a go, I do think Tetris is soft at 7c and from talking to very experienced people it does seem to be a common feeling. It's just think it's interesting. If I gave my grade list of problems it wouldn't be anything like the guidebooks.

This made me chuckle. If the 7A+ felt 7C, then that's what it felt. We're all inclined to knock things down a peg, but not up. Psychologist must have a term for this bias?

thirtytwosrule

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I'm not really questioning the grades I think bouldering grades in general are so personal. The only way it works in my head is a list from easy to hard in the order I found them.

I have 2 7cs on my logbook Tetris and Bens Wall at RHS Neither in my head are 7c. Tetris may be the hardest thing I've done but not the hardest I've had to work and I did it when I was out of shape so again makes me think suits me and that grades are all a bit silly.

My question is more on videos I guess. On the little vids i've put together I've just taken the consensus grade from guide books etc and left it at that. There are definitely problems that I don't believe to be the guidebook grade but I wouldn't put them on film as the grade I felt they are. Should I/we?

Also yeah really like the film but the music was too much for me. turned it off and watched with other music.

Doylo

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The Lawsons are enormous you know.

cheque

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There are definitely problems that I don't believe to be the guidebook grade but I wouldn't put them on film as the grade I felt they are. Should I/we?

You could just leave the grades out- people can easily look them up if they're interested.

Cuts down on titling work too. ;)

thirtytwosrule

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It's a fair point but I quite like having names and grades and actually like the fact that vid had crag on it as well.

I still look up more details on problems I like the look of but like having an idea in advance!

andy popp

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Have we had this? Very cool to hear Kauk talk about the history of Yosemite bouldering.


jwi

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Nice! Cool to hear Kauk talking about Yosemite bouldering. But I fear that the »Bouldering Classics« are going to have the same problem as most of the film's in the series. The climbs are way too easy for the climbers.

cheque

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That's the problem filming professional climbers eh? Not only are they so good that they make most things look uninterestingly easy, they're less likely to be prepared to be filmed on anything that they won't unless it's their "could be the hardest thing ever" project.

Thirtytwosrule: I meant show the problem name and location but not the grade.

Sasquatch

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This made me chuckle. If the 7A+ felt 7C, then that's what it felt. We're all inclined to knock things down a peg, but not up. Psychologist must have a term for this bias?

I am dealing with this ALL the time doing development.  We've got a load of youngsters who all work at the wall ad are getting stronger an stronger and don't know it.  They're quick do downgrade, but no one EVER upgrades stuff.  Somehow I don't think that means they're all soft.


SA Chris

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But I fear that the »Bouldering Classics« are going to have the same problem as most of the film's in the series. The climbs are way too easy for the climbers.

Except Hubble / Sean McColl.

 

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