[Duncan Disorderly]

Heading daaahn sarrf (well south west actually) next weekend and although a couple of the guys I am going with are heading to do routes at Ansteys I an I is looking for some righteous bouldering.

So can anyone suggest some venues that have to be visited and classic problems in the say V4-V7 range.

I am staying near Bodmin but don't mind driving a bit in order to get the real deal.

Ta

: D

[tommytwotone]

yo yo - check Dave Henderson's site for some knowledge:

Javu

[Duncan Disorderly]

Top man!

Cheers dude  :D

[SA Chris]

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml

is my favourite spot, but has about 20 min (flat) walk. If you are pushed for time, Bonehill is a good call.

[AndyR]

http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml

is my favourite spot, but has about 20 min (flat) walk. If you are pushed for time, Bonehill is a good call.

Agreed smallacombe is pretty good - used to climb there quite a bit about 5-6 years ago.

The point of my post - beware of ticks - I went there once in a pair of shorts on a warm summers day, and gained a whole host of new friends who were strongly attached to my family jewels.  The ensuing bloodbath during removal was a sight that still makes me wince at the thought.  If you have any mid-eighties lycra in the cupboard, it may be worthwhile giving it an airing......

[tommytwotone]

combeshead be tha bomb as well:

flava

[Duncan Disorderly]

Eeeeepp! Not nice! Unfortunately (well fortunately : ) I don't have any lycra, are these the kinda knacker munchers that like to walk up your trouser legs or will I be ok in me slacks? Gonna be checking them jewles on a regular basis now, ta!

: D

[SA Chris]

I made the error of climbing on Dartmoor in shorts once, and was convinced by Dave Henderson to give Skin Graft at Hound Tor a go. I now climb there in long trousers regardelss of weather. Tuck thenm into your socks when walking, at least with long trousers they have further to travel before reaching delicate bits.

[cofe]

carn brae in cornwall is pretty flava. i have no idea where it is in relation to bodmin though. or the beast for that matter.

[SA Chris]

Carn Brae is indeed fine, but a long old hoof from Ansteys. It's close to Camborne if I recall. Dartmoor is a load more acceccible.

[Stu Littlefair]

If you're based in Exmoor, you owe it to yourself to check out the Culm. Hartland Quay, Upton Roofs and Northcott Mouth are the best spots. There aren't many problems and there can be a fair amount of trekking between them, but what is there is quality.

Must-do problems are:

Carnage, Font 7a+ (hartland quay)


Trench Problems, Hartland Quay (6a-7a+)


The Upton Roof problems


And also the Pinch and Red Quinnie at NorthCott Mouth (which I don't have piccies of).

Finding all these can be a ballache, so I recommend finding the Barn Climbing Wall nr Bude -
The Barn

Once you're there - ask Si Young for directions and a topo and you're quids in.

[AndyR]

Eeeeepp! Not nice! Unfortunately (well fortunately : ) I don't have any lycra, are these the kinda knacker munchers that like to walk up your trouser legs or will I be ok in me slacks? Gonna be checking them jewles on a regular basis now, ta!

: D

Always good advice to keep a close check on one's prized assets.
Would imagine that trousers offer a reasonable line of defence - seem to recall that DEET based insect repelling goo deters them, so it may be worth smearing a maginot line around each ankle.....

[Duma]

For Quality lines Coomshead tor is the place to go - Hanging Flakes V4 and Dyno from Undercuts V6 are both great. The most concentrated hard stuff is at Saddle tor, But be warned Dartmoor granite eats skin!

Carn Brea is visible from the A30 (get off at the Redruth turning) on the way down to lands end (~45mins from bodmin) good stuff and not as finger ripping as dartmoor, but not that extensive given the drive.

[SA Chris]

For Quality lines Coomshead tor is the place to go - Hanging Flakes V4 and Dyno from Undercuts V6 are both great.

I think you mean Combeshead?
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/CombesheadTor/index.shtml

[Paz]

For Quality lines Coomshead tor is the place to go - Hanging Flakes V4 and Dyno from Undercuts V6 are both great.

Combeshead is the bomb.  The only place on Dartmoor I've ever really got that `wow this is good' feeling from.  Hangin Flakes is a bit piss for V4 though (are you short?), and the Dyno is very nearly staticable using a fingerlock/jam and L highstep, never V6.

[Duma]

For Quality lines Coomshead tor is the place to go - Hanging Flakes V4 and Dyno from Undercuts V6 are both great.

Combeshead is the bomb.  The only place on Dartmoor I've ever really got that `wow this is good' feeling from.  Hangin Flakes is a bit piss for V4 though (are you short?), and the Dyno is very nearly staticable using a fingerlock/jam and L highstep, never V6.

No I'm 5'9" ( oh all right a bit short) and the grades aren't my opinions, there the ones off Javu, Personally would agree with your assessment - say easy V4 and easy V5 respectively?

in reply to SA Chris: yes, obviously  

[Paz]

Aye, I'd say V3/easy 4 and easy 5 was exactly what I had in mind 'n all!  There's a class arete too on the side of the hill which I could only find when my mates shouted "we're over here".  Hard V5, a smidge short of font 7a (or font font 6b) basically.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Sorted, looks like it's gonna be a top trip. Just gotta make sure I don't get coerced (sp) into getting on a rope Thanks to y'all.


Soft touch V6 you say...........Always nice :twisted: I'm not short, probably best described as stealth tall. Had a good look at the topo's and the place looks irie, just hope the weather holds up now!

Cheers

: D

[Duma]

Class arete on other side of hill isn't 'Proof of Concept' by any chance? have tried and failed to find this before - sounds class. Has anyone done any of the stuff if you walk back alond the ridge, always think I should have a look but end up at sundown still within 100yds of cuckoo rock?

[Jim]

I'm going to hijack this thread to save creating another.
Off to Cornish north coast next week for a family holiday staying just near tintagel. seems like there is quite a lot of bouldering around there. After some recomendation of good area's to go for a 5 and 3 year old to go bouldering in as well as me and also any other family beta of shit to do round there (good and bad weather activities)
Cheers

[wintermute]

The boulders at both Tintagel and Pentire would be a nightmare to get to with children.

Northcott is under an hour away and very easily accessible. Guide here - http://www.rockrun.com/wp/south-culm-bouldering-miniguide/

[SA Chris]

Just beware the tidal stuff. Getting cut off is a nightmare even without kids

[Jim]

Good knowledge, cheers.
What good beach are there with bouldering at them (emphasis on quality beaches rather than the bouldering)?

[SA Chris]

By good do you mean sand or pebble? If sand you could easily leave the family at Bude (all the trappings of a fine Cornish seaside resort) and head off to Northcott. Would they tolerate a drive to Godrevy?

[jstrongman]

Although not a beach or lovely smooth sandstone. Helman Tor is a really good place for family bouldering, short walk from car, lots of grass, small and big boulders and great views. Just take some extra skin and also not so good if very windy pretty exposed, but which also means it is fast drying.

[wintermute]

Both Northcott and Hartland are nice beaches. Pebbles rather than sand for the most part, but with excellent rock pooling potential.

Hartland also has a pub, ice cream shop (might be close this time of year) and tat shop.

[i_a_coops]

On a related note, which (if either) is better for surfing, Hartland or Northcott?

[SA Chris]

Northcott is a known spot, although I've never surfed it, only Sandymouth and Bude . I've never heard of anyone surfing at Hartland (unless it's a well kept secret!).

[granticus]

You can surf at Hartland, it's not that well kept a secret, there is spot nearby which is much more coveted although still not a well kept secret.  The nearby spot (clue: there's a route there called Pressure Drop) is much more of a local classic and is very rocky.  Hartland (the beach to north of the pub) can be surfed around low tide, there are submerged rocks etc.. to contend with mainly a right hander, sketchy entry and exits are likely and it really isn' t that great..

Northcott low to mid tide if you want to avoid rocks, best in calm winds and can be very good (fast and dumping) at low tide. 

It's all relative and down to your personal tastes but I would say Northcott is better if you get it in the right conditions.

[kingholmesy]

Off to Cornish north coast next week for a family holiday staying just near tintagel. ... After some recomendation of good areas  ...

Il Duce? 

[andyd]

Off to Cornish north coast next week for a family holiday staying just near tintagel. ... After some recomendation of good areas  ...

Il Duce? 

Saaaaannnnnndddddddbbbbbbbaaaaaaaggggggggg

[shurt]

I'm adding to this rather than starting afresh.
I'm off to house sit for a friend in Totnes for a week later in the month so will have a chance to project a few things on Dartmoor rather than a day here and there travelling from Somerset. I've been to a lot of places on the moor but would welcome some decent recommendations for things to get stuck into at V6 (I've done a fair few V5's and the odd V7). I do have my eye on things like dancing queen and foals chopper at saddle tor but will see how I'm going before I get going on those.
Recommendations or willing climbing partners in the area gratefully received!

[ben]

The ignominiously (?) named Problem 6 at Saddle Tor is really good, described as eliminate but don't think it is really..
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=169953

Easdon Arete at Easdon is another good tick, you could go for the Easdon triple crown, slab, crack and arete

The Wave @BoneCuvier

If you get over to the west side and go to Combshead then definitely Proof of Concept, Hanging Flake (and the 7a slab to its R) plus there's a couple of good short V6's.

[shurt]

Hey thanks for the recommendations. Never been to Easdon so interested in trying that for sure, I've only ever heard of the atete so would like to try other probs there.. Saddle Tor is on the list too.
Re the others, I've done a lot at Combeshead, although not the slab mentioned and did finally do The Wave after many years of frustration!

[wintermute]

Slotted Wall in Bovey woods is mooted as being the best of its grade down that way, though I've not actually tried it.

[andyh]

I'd already started a new thread but this seems like a good place to ask the question...

Does anyone know where I can get a topo for this place or is the ukc logbook the only source of info?

Thanks

[andyd]

I'd already started a new thread but this seems like a good place to ask the question...

Does anyone know where I can get a topo for this place or is the ukc logbook the only source of info?

Thanks

Seen this?
http://shaptor.wikifoundrymobile.com/m/page/Recent+Problems

[andyh]

Whoops, should have specified I was looking for a topo for Breakwater Beach, Brixham