[andyh]

About 15 yrs ago I concocted 3 climbing aims that as a young whippersnapper I felt would never really be acheivable -

1 - Climb E5
2 - Climb Fr8a
3 - Climb english 7a

I've done, even bettered no.1, no 2 can be done whenever i have a bit of time to spare (redpointing is perfectly acceptable in these targets), but english 7a.....

if it even exists anymore where am i gonna find one to do - west side and blind date which might have been possibilities now seem to be 6c+.

so where do i find a nice, do-able 7a? i live in manc and can't crimp like the other andyh, but need to fulfil the dream before i get to old and weak.

Suggestions please.....

[Johnny Brown]

West side and Blind date are both still 7a  - the boundary corresponds pretty closely to the font 7b+ grade. Both of these are considered fairly hard for the grade, so definitely qualify.

[andyh]

West side and Blind date are both still 7a  - the boundary corresponds pretty closely to the font 7b+ grade. Both of these are considered fairly hard for the grade, so definitely qualify.

cool - that'll be me on blind date this wkend then. and no doubt for many wkends to come.

[andyh]

frm ukc...
"andy harris on - 15:20 Wed - 193.38.168.7 whois?
A couple of points:
Most grit routes graded English 7a don't really have proper 7a moves, even the bouldery ones (blind date, west side, partheon etc) are only 6c "

goddammit

 :x

[Bonjoy]

This is the reason boulder grades are way better than Uk tech grades. Uk tech could have been a workable gradescale for bouldering, unfortunately some strange logic/atittude wouldn't allow 7a to ever develop as a real grade. Basically everything that was a benchmark 7a when I started has now been downgraded to 6c, 6c is massive and next to nowt is allowed to be 7a.

[dave]

surely grit routes graded 7a define 7a moves? we forget tech grades are borrowed from routes, routes is where they came from.

[dave]

in addition, i don't get this where people want to perpetuate the ting where the width fo the 7a grade is massive, much bigger than the 6c grade, etc etc. any grade needes to be made up of equal steps, if the steps are not equal then its a bollocks scale and is useless.

[Graeme]

Haven't you just explained the problem with grading generally, because it seems to me that as things get harder it becomes more difficult to advance to the next grade, or is this just a case of it becomes more difficult to achieve the next grade because a person may or may not be genetically pre-disposed to perform the moves necessary to solve the problem.

If that made sense to anybody your a better person than I am, but in short I agree that it is a nonsense that grade compression should occur, and that to climb harder you must climb x y and z to advance to the next grade.

[a dense loner]

ah grading again, how nice.

running hill pits-scoop de path 7a
roaches-who needs ready path 7a
hobson moor-pathcy 97 7a

these 3 within easy reach of madchester, unfortunately all crimpy. not sure i know any slopey ones

[Bubba]

Brit 7a = bollox.

use bouldering grades instead.....purleeez?

[a dense loner]

scoop de path 7b+
who needs ready path 7c
pathcy 97 7c+

but the question was brit grades. how can you moderate a dream?

[Bubba]

I can try

[Falling Down]

Whereabouts is Pathcy at Hobby Moor ??

[Falling Down]

Whereabouts is Pathcy at Hobby Moor ??

Oh and I'm in the USA in case anyone thinks I'm stupid enough to be posting on UKB at half past midnight......

[Jim]

he means percy 97 eliminate at hobson moor (dense's problem)

[andyh]

ah grading again, how nice.

running hill pits-scoop de path 7a
roaches-who needs ready path 7a
hobson moor-pathcy 97 7a

these 3 within easy reach of madchester, unfortunately all crimpy. not sure i know any slopey ones

scoop de grace - good call. s'got to be the one to go for, a true classic. guess i need to get down to the beta forum now.

tried percy 97 elim - that first crimp cannot be held  :shock: . did the 7a version matching the boss u mentioned a while back though - very nice

[Johnny Brown]

"andy harris -  
A couple of points:
Most grit routes graded English 7a don't really have proper 7a moves, even the bouldery ones (blind date, west side, partheon etc) are only 6c "

This is complete bollox. As said above, the reason uk grades have been abandoned is the unwillingness to admit difficulty has advanced beyond 7a. Uk peeps seem to prefer downgrading as one-upmanship rather than claiming big numbers. i think the almscliffe mafia are the worst for this - I've heard it said that no 'real' 7a moves actually exist!
Actually the system correlates perfectly well with font grades, as long as you ignore traverses and stamina plods (ie the normal grade confusers)
Uk 7a = font 7b+ / 7c+,
UK 7b = font 8a- 8b+.
Uk 7c - 8c and above.
Blind date and WSS are 7a sequences - if you came across them on a route you'd have no fuckin chance. The likes of the Ace and Superman are solid 7b.

[dave]

word to that johnny.

[chappers]

has anyone done "higginsons arm" at t'roaches?
is that v9? cant find it in a guide book, only what my mate dave recons.
good prob, fell off the easy end bit bout 7 times, total pisser.
ill do it next time bla bla bla...

[fatboySlimfast]

Blind date and WSS are 7a sequences - if you came across them on a route you'd have no fuckin chance. The likes of the Ace and Superman are solid 7b.

I agree

[dave k]

I have heared it said that the TTMM at Burbage South is harder is slightly harder than both WSS and BD. We are talking the hardest sigle move not the whole problem. Obviously if you have strong fingers you are more likely to onsight TTMM than BD. I reckon that is a perfect  e.g UK 7a technical move.

[dave]

TTMM has got to be one of the least inspiring problems in butbage though!

[dave k]

TTMM has got to be one of the least inspiring problems in butbage though!

#

Does that mean you hav'nt done it?  :wink:

I have to disagree though. I think it is brill. Ok its short, but once you have done the standing start , try it from sitting- must be atleast V12. It is simple, uncomplicated with minimal holds- just do you have the strength, body tension and conditions to pull on them? I remember when it was a B12/13 project in Peak Bouldering 1- looked impossible.

[dave]

no i ain't done it, but i done pleanty of stuff similar standard at burbage and this is probaly the only thing that is so inunspiring i've only tried it once and for about 4 goes and it just ain't worth the skin frankly.

[jimbo]

I reckon TTMM is a quality problem, not that I have done it. One awesome move, top out, sorted. That what its all about init ?