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Ultimate Nemeses (Read 37992 times)

saltbeef

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#125 Ultimate Nemeses
October 04, 2005, 03:25:11 pm
on how was it for you?

BenF

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#126 Ultimate Nemeses
October 04, 2005, 03:26:00 pm
Quote from: "Fiend"
Conan The Librarian - determined to do this as a route, onsighted the start sans mats but had to retreat off the top soloing as it was damp. Went back with a rope, did the start first go again, shoved in loads of gear, faffed for ages, and gave up. Annoyingly I'm tempted to go back in my committment gets better...



Conan is well cool.  I stupidly did it one weekday morning, on my own and in spooky mist.  Felt a lot of adrenaline coursing through my body as I topped out.  A very enjoyable outing. Get to it dude.

andy_e

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#127 Ultimate Nemeses
October 04, 2005, 03:41:51 pm
Quote from: "BenF"
Quote from: "Fiend"
Conan The Librarian - determined to do this as a route, onsighted the start sans mats but had to retreat off the top soloing as it was damp. Went back with a rope, did the start first go again, shoved in loads of gear, faffed for ages, and gave up. Annoyingly I'm tempted to go back in my committment gets better...



Conan is well cool.  I stupidly did it one weekday morning, on my own and in spooky mist.  Felt a lot of adrenaline coursing through my body as I topped out.  A very enjoyable outing. Get to it dude.

you'll probably hear an epic account of me on it, dying etc.

BenF

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#128 Ultimate Nemeses
October 05, 2005, 08:24:16 am
Quote from: "andi_e"
you'll probably hear an epic account of me on it, dying etc.


I hope not and I doubt it.  Serious injury maybe, but you'll be unlucky to die on it.   :wink:  :wink:

Andy F

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#129 Ultimate Nemeses
October 05, 2005, 05:31:43 pm
Quote from: "Fiend"
I'd have thought one attempt on Breakaway would be enough. In fact, I'd have thought attempting Breakaway and not succeeding would not be the sort of thing you've survive to have as a nemesis.

We are talking about the Mick Fowler "triple dagger" Culm Coast horror-show Breakaway, aren't we??


No, it's the Phil Davidson horror at Pex. I gat to pretty much the same point every go. Right hand on the stupidly painful crimp, feet on crappy edgy smeary stuff, left up to the rounded gaston flake thingy and then...


Nothing. Not a solitary sausage. I'm stuck.  I can't move my feet, I can't generate any power on the crimp, all I achieve is a gravity assisted descent. Again. Bugger.  :x

Andy F

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#130 Ultimate Nemeses
October 05, 2005, 06:10:50 pm
Quote from: "cowboyhat"
WHAT! I have seen you at the tor, all this time you're harbouring a dark secret. You really have no excuses:
Normal Height
Long Arms
Strong Fingers
Visited the Tor over 500 times...

That is why this thread is called nemesises. I'd get on with it before the guide reprint comes out and ru has given it 7b+


I think we may just have our wires crossed on this one. The Breakaway I'm on about is at Pex, not the Tor.


'Cos I've only been there 499 times (and I've counted).

cowboyhat

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#131 Ultimate Nemeses
October 05, 2005, 06:40:57 pm
No shit. 1, I don't know you. 2, Pex hill is Guy ritchies revolver in crag form. No biscuits.

Resonate

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#132 Ultimate Nemeses
October 07, 2005, 02:01:38 pm
Hung Like A Chimp at Raven Tor (Dartmoor)

apparently it still goes at the same grade even tho half the flake was pulled off by some fat git

SA Chris

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#133 Ultimate Nemeses
October 10, 2005, 02:11:31 pm
Quote from: "cofe"
Quote from: "moose"
Ripper Traverse at Caley


did that other week. very good/green isn't it.


This was my Warlock for the whole time I lived in Leeds, kept falling off the end of the traverse in pre mat days. Returned after a states trip, feeling strong like Ox and cruised it, to my surprise to the blob in the middle, then had to hang on in there while my spotter went round and removed as much greenness as possible from the top, and spotted the holds for me on the top as I had always assumed the topout would be pice of piss and never looked at it.

moose

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#134 Ultimate Nemeses
October 10, 2005, 05:08:00 pm
Quote from: "SA Chris"
... cruised it, to my surprise to the blob in the middle, then had to hang on in there while my spotter went round and removed as much greenness as possible from the top, and spotted the holds for me on the top as I had always assumed the topout would be pice of piss and never looked at it.


sounds familiar, though without spotters I was reduced to an eternity of considering a sideways leap onto my mat (under the traverse). Eventually flailed my way up the rounded greenness in the near-dark (after using up an entire chalkbag in hand-wringing deliberation).  Then got distracted on the way to my car and proceded to bottle topping out Not My Stile three times in a row.  

Nemeses-wise: Pinky and Whiskey Galore at Brimham still annoy.  But, at the weekend I became convinced that Bowden is Nemeses-central (when not musing over how that block-chalk just feels plain wrong).  There's something about that place that I just don't suit, everything at seems plain evil no matter how many times I try: Captain Haddock, Toffs, both Cave Central problems.  I just never seem to get any nearer inspite of improving elsewhere (even Kyloe In's starting to succomb).

SA Chris

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#135 Ultimate Nemeses
October 10, 2005, 05:37:05 pm
Quote from: "moose"

sounds familiar, though without spotters I was reduced to an eternity of considering a sideways leap onto my mat (under the traverse). Eventually flailed my way up the rounded greenness in the near-dark (after using up an entire chalkbag in hand-wringing deliberation).  Then got distracted on the way to my car and proceded to bottle topping out Not My Stile three times in a row.  


Sounds like me the first time I did Permutation Rib at Caley. Onsight soloed (as you do) Angel's and Rabbit's Paw Walls, so set off up Permutation Rib and found myself on the footledge after some struggling with a sequence on the traverse. Looked down at the pointed boulder beneath in the fading light and convinced myself I would at least be able to hobble/crawl to the car if I landed on it. Ended up being nae bother.

Andy F

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#136 Ultimate Nemeses
October 18, 2005, 10:09:34 am
Oh, got another one, Si's arete at t'almsclffe. I know it's only V6/F7a but I just can't on with it. Getting my ass off the ground has been achieved, but after that I'm stumped.

Best wait for cooler conditions so I can stick those slopers.

BenF

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#137 Ultimate Nemeses
October 18, 2005, 12:41:49 pm
Don't really know Almscliff (to my great shame) but that's the little arete up on the main crag near the niche or something?

I remember trying it repeatedly years ago and failing as I usually do.  However I did feel tantalisingly close and should go back and do it along with everything else I should do up there!  

Maybe we should make Almscliff our next trip out Andy?

webbo

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#138 Ultimate Nemeses
October 18, 2005, 12:42:53 pm
Quote from: "Andy F"
Oh, got another one, Si's arete at t'almsclffe. I know it's only V6/F7a but I just can't on with it. Getting my ass off the ground has been achieved, but after that I'm stumped.

Best wait for cooler conditions so I can stick those slopers.


another of those famously overgraded yorkshire problems. :wink:

moose

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#139 Ultimate Nemeses
October 18, 2005, 01:20:16 pm
Quote from: "Andy F"
Oh, got another one, Si's arete at t'almsclffe.


I can't even bring myself to try... just looks horrible.  Has it ever been managed by anyone over 4 foot tall?  It has the "pelvis shattering" look of a problem on the Flapjack at Caley (sit-start to a low groove).  It's V5 but I suspect I'll have managed Blockbuster or the Keel at Almscliff before I do either that goove or Si's Arete.

Andy F

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#140 Ultimate Nemeses
October 18, 2005, 06:34:54 pm
Quote from: "BenF"
Don't really know Almscliff (to my great shame) but that's the little arete up on the main crag near the niche or something?

I remember trying it repeatedly years ago and failing as I usually do.  However I did feel tantalisingly close and should go back and do it along with everything else I should do up there!  

Maybe we should make Almscliff our next trip out Andy?


It's the innocuous little arete at the start of the niche, about 20 yards right of Syretts Roof.  I'd be well up for another A(r)lmscliffe visit, but I want to wait for better conditions as it was a tad warm up there on Sunday (18 bloody degrees in October...).

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#141 Ultimate Nemeses
October 18, 2005, 07:54:22 pm
One can add to the list:

Chequer's Crack, Froggatt. Bloody awful route, tried it at A1 years ago, and recently in a form which involved a shuffle up, lots of pump failing to get gear in quickly, and a shuffle down. Probably won't go back...

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#142 Ultimate Nemeses
October 18, 2005, 08:16:46 pm
Quote from: "webbo"
Quote from: "Andy F"
Oh, got another one, Si's arete at t'almsclffe. I know it's only V6/F7a but I just can't on with it. Getting my ass off the ground has been achieved, but after that I'm stumped.

Best wait for cooler conditions so I can stick those slopers.


another of those famously overgraded yorkshire problems. :wink:


It was actually quite a bit harder when I first did it. Subsequently the foothold out left broke leaving a much more helpful hold. As for the grade, I'd say, even in its easier modern form, it is a much trickier proposition than Demon Wall Roof - but then that is clearly overgraded at V7.

webbo

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#143 Ultimate Nemeses
October 19, 2005, 09:06:18 am
i knew the grading police would be along after i'd made a comment like that. :wink:

Fiend

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#144 Re: Ultimate Nemeses
December 01, 2015, 01:15:12 pm
The Edge Problem, Cromlech boulders. Awful, awful thing.

That prow on the low boulder at Carrock. 2 grades harder than the other V5 prows at Carrock.

Probably something in The County.

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#145 Re: Ultimate Nemeses
December 02, 2015, 01:05:40 am
I knocked off 2 nemeses this year...

Rocksteady Teddy V5 @ The Fear Factory. 5m slab, crux for me being a one foot stand on a smear with no hands.... Couldn't do it for 2 years..... Every session there would try it. Then once you do that, theres more tough moves higher...

Diplomatic Immunity V4 @ The Frontline. Technical little slopey seam... Again, every session there I try it to no avail. Did it last week 2nd go. Awesome. So glad. Was out there with Webby a month or so ago and he said he always finds it hard. Haha


Other than that.... The DWS project. Nearly 3 years, 50+ sessions, at least 150 failures... All in the crux. Right at the top.
BUT I'M GETTING CLOSER!!

rodma

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#146 Re: Ultimate Nemeses
December 02, 2015, 07:34:08 am
Monty Pythons ss
Some 14 years after my first visit to Kyloe, finally did it earlier this year :D

 

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