[Durbs]

Also - just to check; Matt is that adjustable board 1.2 or 2.4m wide (or somewhere in between?)

[Oldmanmatt]

Also - just to check; Matt is that adjustable board 1.2 or 2.4m wide (or somewhere in between?)

That one is 1.2, the 45* behind it is 2.4x3.6.

[mark20]

Just about finished mine, still needs a couple of holds to go on. Loosely based on chris j's earlier in this thread and highrepute's. Loads of good info on here 
Sorry for the confusing mix of imperial and metric...

It's a full sheet of 2.4m ply wide, with screw in Tnuts, which aren't too much hassle, spaced 8inches apart
The frame is 3.6m length joists of 45x90mm (whatever 2x4 is in new money), with each end cut at 45degrees
and various left over bits as horizontal supports. I didn't have connecter things so offset the horizontal supports


The kickboard is two 2.4m joists with another one cut up between, so it 3x45mm high ie about 15cm
The main frame was just screwed to it, and then I rested the whole thing against the wall to screw on the main upright supports which are 45x150mm (2x6 ish)
This bit was the trickiest bit, was helpful to have a couple of mates to help here


Then re-inforced the attachment to the kicker (photo taken before the big screw went in through the lot), and attached the bits along the base


With all the ply and most of the holds on



It feels pretty solid. I think all in, wood, Tnuts and screws were just over £200.

I've never done much DIY before so things I learnt (that may be obvious to most people)-
Connecter things for attaching bits of wood together are probably worth buying so you can get your horizontal joists in a straight line, especially along the top where the top vertical bit is. I didn't and the ply flexs slightly. It would save the bodge I did connecting the main frame to the kicker too, though this did work quite well
Electric mitre saw is very useful
Theres only room for 1 row of footholds on the kickboard, but I quite like this
Glad I used thicker main upright supports
Everything is screwed together with big fat wood screws (had to drill small pilot holes first), and seems fine
45degrees is pretty steep 

[a dense loner]

Mark it looks like your end supports are both vertical, with the top not attached to the ceiling? If this is the case I'd put a small diagonal brace off the vertical going up at 45 to join the end joists. When ure climbing the board will want to pull down at 45, the diagonals will take most of the associated stresses out

[mark20]

Yeh it's freestanding, and I see what you mean. I've got a few bits of wood left so will add these when I get a chance

[Jim]

From just looking at the pictures, I would say it looks like it flex s a lot in the middle and would benefit from another joist and a brace across the top of the vertical uprights which all the joists fix to

[SEDur]

+1 for the extra braces.

Looks like a goody!

[Durbs]

Quick question as I now have a date booked in with a mate who is actually competent with saws, and wifely approval - so the garden woodie is actually going ahead!

When people talk about angles; 35/40/45 - is that measuring from vert or horizontal? I only ask as I was assuming from this was the angle from horizon, but a lot of posts suggest a wall at 40/35 over 45 as it's less steep so you can use worse holds, which suggests you're measuring from vertical, which is counter intuitive to me...

[Durbs]

:facepalm:

So 0-degrees is vertical in climbing terms, not horizontal, this makes more sense.

[SA Chris]

yep, a 10 deg board might not have much space to move in that case.

[Durbs]

You'd definitely need a kickboard...

[Fadanoid]

 Have you considered an outdoor Moonboard durbs?

There are few people with them. Myself included.

[Fadanoid]

I'm midway through major alteration of my indoor boards at the moment. I will get some pics up when finished. Did not like the original angles on one side so I've redesigned it to include raised bike storage in the void behind.

[Durbs]

Have you considered an outdoor Moonboard durbs?

There are few people with them. Myself included.

Funny you should mention that. Having (finally) properly measured the space, a moonboard will fit perfectly, with space for a 10 degree on the side too so this is the plan!

[Durbs]

Also, photos would be appreciated.

Specifically, I'm looking at taking the standard Moonboard build from their published design, but then modifying so it's free-standing. So at the least, it's two substantial vertical supports (sunk into concrete?), with a cross-brace on each side.
And then a roof to keep it all dry.

[Murph]

The moonboard PDF gives the wrong size of hole for the t nuts. I drilled out 6 sheets of ply using the drill bit size that moon recommended, then had to re-drill every single one of them again. Trust me, you don't want to have to do that.

I spoke to the boys at Core soon after when I was buying more t-nuts from them and they were in agreement - the moon PDF hole size is too small. Literally hours were spent re-drilling those damn holes. It's much easier to get it right first time.

*cant remember what I went with in the end, might have been 2mm bigger than moon said though.

[Durbs]

What did you do in terms of weatherproofing?

[Doylo]

The moonboard PDF gives the wrong size of hole for the t nuts. I drilled out 6 sheets of ply using the drill bit size that moon recommended, then had to re-drill every single one of them again. Trust me, you don't want to have to do that.

I spoke to the boys at Core soon after when I was buying more t-nuts from them and they were in agreement - the moon PDF hole size is too small. Literally hours were spent re-drilling those damn holes. It's much easier to get it right first time.

*cant remember what I went with in the end, might have been 2mm bigger than moon said though.

What size did they recommend ? I used a 13 mm bit for M10 T Nuts

[highrepute]

The moonboard PDF gives the wrong size of hole for the t nuts. I drilled out 6 sheets of ply using the drill bit size that moon recommended, then had to re-drill every single one of them again. Trust me, you don't want to have to do that.

I spoke to the boys at Core soon after when I was buying more t-nuts from them and they were in agreement - the moon PDF hole size is too small. Literally hours were spent re-drilling those damn holes. It's much easier to get it right first time.

*cant remember what I went with in the end, might have been 2mm bigger than moon said though.

What size did they recommend ? I used a 13 mm bit for M10 T Nuts

10mm

http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/MoonBoard.pdf

[Durbs]

Wood, drill bits, screws, frame fixings and allen key all ordered :D

Sunday is build-day - just doing the vert wall first as only have a single day available this side of Christmas so doing for the easier build.

Psyched 

Timelapse coming soon

[rodma]

Having moved to the burbs we no longer have a campus board, but have built this instead.

[rodma]

Having moved to the burbs we no longer have a campus board, but have built this instead.

I attached the wrong photo :D better view above

[Paul B]

Nat took her time off between new jobs to empty our spare room (as the in laws have bought a nearby house we need one less guest bedroom) and as her new job is likely to be a bit busier it's time to build a board.

The room itself is on the 1st floor of a Victorian terrace with two structural walls (one between myself and the neighbour the other the rear of the house [large window]). The room beneath it has a lathe and plaster ceiling. The other walls are made out of none-structural cheese. I was thinking that it'd be possible to cantilever a board off the wall between the houses with end supports resembling that of a freestanding board. Do people think that sounds reasonable? The board can be around 3.5m x 3.5m and will be between 25 and 30 deg. The ceiling is also made of cheese.

[Doylo]

My baby's 4 weeks old.

[Nibile]

Nice one reverend.