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Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May (Read 6316 times)

shark

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Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 20, 2018, 11:41:04 pm
11.0-3 average 155.8 down 0.7 on week

M. Morning. Tor. Good session on Bens. Almost linked kneebar rest to end. Nick got Rattle and Hump. Eve  Foundry. Autobelay warm up. Some campusing. Then 3 new level 2’s on steep bit of wave

T.

W. Morning. Tor. Cool and cloudy. V tempting to go on Bens. 3 goes up Anger Management 8a+. Not been on it for a couple of years. 3rd Go did headwall in two halves which is the meat of route. Tips trashed. Really enjoyed it. Nick did well too

T.

F.

S Tor. Hot and didn’t get out till midday. Major progress on Ben's. Did it from start to starting to reach for rib from pinch -  so officially done overlapping halves now.

S

Motivating to get progress this week and also have a change from Malham. Got my mojo back. Great breakthrough link on Ben's but realise that the last moves have the potential to be a long running heartbreaker

36chambers

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#1 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 11:05:14 am
M:
T: Indoors. 50 board, felt hard in the heat. 2-3 movers.
W: Quick Cliff hit. Figured out beta for Underhand super extension 7C+, didn't try from the start.
T:
F: Foot-on fingerboarding PE.
S:
S: Bowderstone. Happy to finish off Impropa Opera Sit ~7C+ after falling off the penultimate move on my first session. Had a play on Fat Lady 8A+ which is very good and didn't feel impossible. Don't think I've pulled onto an 8A+ before, so psyched that it felt doable.

Left knee still hurts to fully bend. LH middle finger tweaky. Traps still a wreck. Didn't do any physio last week...

spidermonkey09

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#2 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 12:28:18 pm
M- rest.

T - Depot. Turned up feeling strong and think I expected to find everything easy after going well at the weekend. Erm, no. Got utterly spanked! Felt fucked once I'd warmed up and in the end only did some foot on campusing with a metronome to make sure I was doing enough moves. Home about an hour earlier than usual!

W- rest.

T - started work early and finished early! Went to Gordale to try Supercool. First time climbing here; what a great place. Good first session, helped by having some good beta from Al.

F - rest. Massaged forearms extensively.

S - Gordale again. Not too bad a session. Fell off the chossy 7a warm up to start with and then started to work crux sequence out on Supercool; felt hard. Frustrating last go in the shade when the wind dropped and I started greasing off everything.

S - Gordale. Much better session. Linked it to the second rest and then fell off above not having a clue what I was doing. Please with this link given I had sustained a horrible split tip on the razor crimp at the crux. Worked this sequence a bit more and discovered a large ticked sidepull which I had somehow missed on previous sessions. Fairly sure I know what I'm doing up there now but its very unforgiving; if you mess a move up or get your feet in the wrong place it feels impossible. Top headwall/slab also needs a bit of work as its very easy to climb yourself into a cul-de-sac, and I do not want to blow it up there...

Please with how quickly its come together to the point where I'm almost on redpoint. However I feel completely fucked today; elbows, shoulders, and the split tip! Having a few days off with some foam rolling and forearm work and then go back on Thursday. In Wales for the bank holiday weekend so will have to wait until the following week to get back on it.


spidermonkey09

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#3 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 12:29:43 pm

S: Bowderstone. Happy to finish off Impropa Opera Sit ~7C+ after falling off the penultimate move on my first session. Had a play on Fat Lady 8A+ which is very good and didn't feel impossible. Don't think I've pulled onto an 8A+ before, so psyched that it felt doable.


Can't argue with that for a days work; nice one!

Will Hunt

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#4 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 12:55:55 pm
Went to Gordale to try Supercool. First time climbing here; what a great place.

It's amazing isn't it? I've yet to climb there, but it's got a great showmanship to it. You see nothing on the approach path and then, BAM, there it is. I don't think anyone, climber or otherwise, can walk in there for the first time and not have their jaw drop even a little.

Nibile

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#5 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 01:20:56 pm
Power Club

Mon - dumbbell complex, RDL, curls, snatch pulls, overhead press, pull ups 5x5 back to back, x2. Very tiring.
Tue - rest.
Wed - low PE 30/30 x15. Weights. Ab wheel 50x1.
Thu - climbing class. Hot, humid.
Fri - rest.
Sat - tired. DL 5x5 80% (104 kg). One arm hangs on 1,5 cm flat edge 2x6. Snatch pulls EMOM 5x12 30".
Sun - rest.

the_dom

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#6 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 02:22:08 pm
Slowly settling into Vienna. Working part-time from home which gives me flexibility to get some training in. After spending nearly a year not climbing, it's feeling good to get into the groove again.

Monday: Lunchtime boulder at Boulderbar Hannovergasse - ticked my first Boulderbar 7A and did most of the new stuff on the walls; got a bit schooled on the 6Cs and 6C+s on the 45, did one (?) first try, and one after a few goes..
Followed by afternoon Crossfit involving lots of heavy front squats. My poor legs.

Tuesday: AM Crossfit - lots of hang power snatches and burpees, followed by a 6.6km run along the Donaukanal in the evening. Legs barely functioning.

Wednesday: Lunchtime session at Boulderbar Hannovergasse - did some of the new problems, and worked a new 7B, doing all or almost all of the moves. Spent some time on the 45 degree wall doing a couple of the 6C/+s that I couldn’t do on monday and a few 7As and 7A+s, including flashing one.

Thursday: Horrible, hard Crossfit session and a run along the Donaukanal in the evening.

Friday: Another big Crossfit session in the morning followed by a good session at Boulderbar Wienerberg on the 45 degree and Moon boards, doing quite few problems up to 7A or 7A+

Saturday: Quite a long volume session at Blockfabrik followed by Kamasi Washington in the evening, which was incredible.

Sunday: A 2 hour hike in the Wienerwald.

Climbing-wise, things are slowly coming together and hopefully I'll have booked a trip to the Zillertal in June by the end of the week, which will be a good source of motivation.

spidermonkey09

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#7 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 02:40:53 pm

It's amazing isn't it? I've yet to climb there, but it's got a great showmanship to it. You see nothing on the approach path and then, BAM, there it is. I don't think anyone, climber or otherwise, can walk in there for the first time and not have their jaw drop even a little.

Yeah its got a real wow factor, more so than Malham (although that definitely has something similar). The right wall is a great bit of rock architecture. Cave Route Left has to be up there in the top three 'lines' of Yorkshire. Face Route looks good as well, and I really like the look of the Fawcett 7c The Cement Garden to the left of that.

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#8 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 06:16:28 pm
81.2kg -> 80.5kg

M:
T:
W: 0630 fingerboard session before a work training course
T: Arch. Half a fingerboard session (fingers tweaky so stopped), 4 problems on MB then some problems. Did a really good (hard) purple and Yellow then did some one-armers. Managed a one-armer on right arm +4kg - lost weight but kept strength!
F:
S: N Wales. Rhiw Goch first. Gap of Rohan 6C flash, almost did Moria 7B. Falling off the last move a few times with whack beta. Will go next time with fresh skin. Walked up to Clogwyn y Tarw but no psyche led to a swim in Llyn Idwal. Caseg Fraith, did Ogwen Jazz 6C then some easy highballs. Then Drwys y Coed block. Flashed Harry Popper 6C before doing the Extension 7A second go
S: N Wales. Wavelength. Did King of Drunks stand 6C quickly before doing the sit 7A, tried the RH start but a bit reachy. Flashed Boysen's Groove, mega. Went and did Arse Soul 7A before going to Pieshop boulders. Flashed Chip Shop Slapper and got close on Beef Growler 7B. Finished off by doing Cave Route 7A at Cromlech. Video of a couple below:


Good weekend in N Wales, woke with back spasms probably due to combination of bad posture, climbing, sleeping in car, carying heavy pad and driving 5.5 hours last night. Off work today but hopefully will get better soon.

andy popp

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#9 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 07:47:00 pm
Coops, it seems to me you could be trying harder problems, more often, and really making them the focus of your day ... if you want to of course (and I say this as a compliment).

shark

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#10 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 07:52:12 pm
Yeah its got a real wow factor, more so than Malham (although that definitely has something similar). The right wall is a great bit of rock architecture.

Baroque vs Gothic

moose

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#11 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 10:28:53 pm
Yeah its got a real wow factor, more so than Malham (although that definitely has something similar). The right wall is a great bit of rock architecture.

Baroque vs Gothic

or Rivendell versus Mordor!  Gordale is somewhere really want to climb at more, but on some days I feel a little overwhelmed there... under the "Eye of Sauron"!
« Last Edit: May 21, 2018, 10:54:17 pm by moose »

Andy F

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#12 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 10:33:04 pm
Mon - rest
Tues - Hangar. Bouldered okay, did some stuff in the cave I'd failed on previously.
Wed - rest
Thurs - good fingerboard session.
Fri - bonus session at the Hangar, new set felt nails, polished off some more of the previous set.
Sat - gardening then a short bike ride with the kids.
Sun - Two Tier. Had a good go at Why Me. Got into the crux sequence and then to the top overlapping on my best go. Need to finish it off, feels like it should go.

Good week.

shark

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#13 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 21, 2018, 11:04:21 pm
or Rivendell versus Mordor!  Gordale is somewhere really want to climb at more, but on some days I feel a little overwhelmed there... under the "Eye of Sauron"!

 ;D

Coops_13

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#14 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 22, 2018, 09:25:32 am
Coops, it seems to me you could be trying harder problems, more often, and really making them the focus of your day ... if you want to of course (and I say this as a compliment).
Andy, you are right of course. I guess I was just going for new areas this weekend. My short attention span normally prevents me projecting, something easy enough to change!

spidermonkey09

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#15 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 22, 2018, 10:20:21 am

S: N Wales. Wavelength. Did King of Drunks stand 6C quickly before doing the sit 7A,


Did this last summer and found it very hard, having done the stand start years previously. Good effort polishing it off quickly, I think its probably 7a+. Fantastic problem.

spidermonkey09

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#16 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 22, 2018, 10:21:35 am



Baroque vs Gothic


or Rivendell versus Mordor! 

What does that make Kilnsey? Brutalist? My LOTR knowledge is inadequate!

nai

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#17 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 22, 2018, 10:31:13 am
M - Anston with tt, started well, really flowing well but soon faded to usual clunkiness.

T conditioning day -

bodyweight flow circuits

Intergrated Strength style workout:
Max Hangs (stale) with Squats,deadlift, KB shoulder press, KB swings during the rest period

Shoulder rehab circuit


W rest

Th - High Tor, couple of sport warm ups then got on Flaky Wall. Foot slipped while reaching for the big flakey jug at the end of all the hard climbing above the groove. Initially tried to blame bad luck but in reality, while my arms were fine, my body, especially my legs, was goosed from the time spend faffing with, and not trusting, gear.  Had been on the route about an hour already at that point, way too slow.  Tellingly my calves were sore for the following 2 days.
Bit warm when the sun came around so went across to LTQ where we dogged up a couple of dirty things and got attacked by midges.

F - physio with Tim, yet more stuff to add into the daily routine. 

S -
Quick conditiong session after a family day out:
Shoulder rehab cicuit
Squats,deadlift, KB swings

S - fingerboard, started with max hangs but half way through with progress definitely stalled I opted to stop trying to push maximum weight and aim to make each hang full length at just sub-maximal.



Coops_13

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#18 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 22, 2018, 11:27:35 am

S: N Wales. Wavelength. Did King of Drunks stand 6C quickly before doing the sit 7A,


Did this last summer and found it very hard, having done the stand start years previously. Good effort polishing it off quickly, I think its probably 7a+. Fantastic problem.
I'd heard that it was tough for the grade but to me it felt quite easy. Especially considering I'd been trying other low 7s and not feeling especially strong on those. Perhaps it just suited me! Agree on the quality though...

shark

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#19 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 22, 2018, 11:27:52 am
My LOTR knowledge is inadequate!

Helm's Deep

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#20 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 22, 2018, 11:37:59 am

S - fingerboard, started with max hangs but half way through with progress definitely stalled I opted to stop trying to push maximum weight and aim to make each hang full length at just sub-maximal.

Sorry to be nosy here, but shouldn't making sure all hangs are to the allotted length at an appropriate level of exertion be the aim of all max hangs sessions (outside of the calibration sessions)? I often find when it gets warmer I need to drop my added weight from what I may have worked out when it was cooler to get the correct level of effort (approx 80% of max, so a weight you could hang for 12-13 secs, but are using for 10 secs for example).

nai

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#21 Re: Krag Klub 429 14 - 20 May
May 22, 2018, 01:23:37 pm
I generally use 10s as a max length and 6s as a minimum, hang at a level until I can manage (e.g.) three reps of 10s then up the weight so I can manage at least 6s per hang and keep going at that until I can do 3x10s again. 

Plan was to set a fixed hang length of 10s as you suggest for your warmer weather workout so yes would be hanging at around 80%.

I'm not really trying to increase strength at the moment, although it would be nice, the goal is to maintain what (little) I've got through the routes season and look to make gains over winter.

EDIT: Obviously any advice or highlighting of glaring errors in my plan would be very welcome.

 

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