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Krag Klub 428 7-13 May (Read 7669 times)

shark

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Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 13, 2018, 11:21:59 pm
11.1-3 average 156.5 down 1lb on week

M. Turned up at the Tor on my tod late morning. Tried start of Bens. Didnt get through to kneebar. Bit warm. lightish session

T. Tor for 9am. Met Nick. Attempted to link from kneebar to finish of Bens but didnt get it. Tips too sore to try start. Then led Tin Of clean putting draws in and redpointed it. Finished by lunchtime.Eve Decided I needed a finger endurance top up so went down the Foundry and did some campus laddering on S7 and medium rungs. Took a bit of manning up with sore tips

W.

T.

F.. Malham. Drove up with Steve and Gus. Paul, Keith, Mina and Zippy went in another car. Funny day. Cloudy and chilly but extremely low humidity which made rock a bit skiddy I thought. Several goes from the ground. Climbed till late. May have touched the horn once. Very disappointing session. Only positive is that I've altered the starting sequence which cuts out 3 foot moves and maybe 3/4 secs. Also threw in pre-redpoint warm up lap on Consenting when needed.

S

S

Been fairly unmotivated with climbing and life generally over the last couple of weeks - generally feel in a rut. Giving Malham a miss next week due to hot weather forecast for tomorrow and other commitments later in the week. In a way it is a relief and I’m looking forward to getting stuck into Bens, Moffatrocity or even Soul Crusher instead.

duncan

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#1 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 08:36:42 am
STG - Manage aches, pains and other ailments.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before (on hold).
LTG - 5.13 at 60

M - (from last week) Trevallen and Chapel Point: Fulmar Pants, Ultravixens, Octobrina and Blockheads. The latter two are both excellent and relatively unheralded E2/3s.
T - Shoulder screwed
W - Assessment from currently resident physio. (a happy coincidence) and former pupil: initially thought it was a massive cuff tear due to the severe limitation but detected a flicker of activity so decided it was probably still intact and just very inflamed.
T - Shoulder still screwed
F - Light cuff exercises
S - Light cuff exercises. Left arm fingerboard pick-ups (18mm edge, 32.5kg).
S - Light cuff exercises

I really have paid the price for three consecutive days on. Medium-term goals paused. 

Plan: ~two weeks of gentle rehab. and some fingerboard pick-ups to keep the tendons occupied. Start training for Mt. Fuji.

Coops_13

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#2 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 09:10:21 am
80.8kg -> 81.2kg - up slightly due to eating like a pig at BH weekend

STG: Cut and train for MW

M: Cuisiniere, hot. Sent nothing, close on El Poussah
T:
W: Arch. Fingerboard session (week 3 of Bechtel ladders). Tried muscle-ups on bar for the first time in a few months and matched my previous PB of 10 - close to 11! 4X4s on moonboard then campus lock-offs to finish
T:
F: Arch. Fingerboard session. Got new ring muscle-up PB of 5 which I was psyched about! Then did circuits for a bit before finishing by doing high volume of easier problems
S: At a wedding
S: Arch. Hungover session. Did a load of the comp wall problems (nothing too hard) then moved onto the 50 as demotivated. Moved a project high point slightly higher  which I was happy about due to how I was feeling. The weight loss and training may be having a slight effect after all.

No more alcohol till Magic Wood now, knuckling down till the trip.

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#3 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 10:11:39 am
Monday: Two hours of bouldering at BlockFabrik in Vienna, my new favourite Viennese bouldering gym. Managed to tick a few 6Cs and 6C+s (even flashed one or two) and ticked the first 7A of my comeback, which  was more satisfying than I thought it would be. Worked out all but one of the moves on a roofy 7A+.

Tuesday: 9-odd km run along the Donau, significantly quicker than my last attempt.

Wednesday: More bouldering at BlockFabrik. Ticked the 7A+ that I couldn’t do the previous session (YYFY!), ticked off another 7A+ and a 7B (both soft as..) and came very close to a “proper” 7B. At 92kgs, this is very heartening. Finished off with some max hangs on the Beastmaker.

Thursday: Bit of a fail. Had a morning pass and wanted to get to a new gym that, according to Google Maps would take me 30 mins to get to, but which ended up taking an hour and, as a result, I had to cut the session short. Also, the two Boulder Bar gyms in Vienna seem to have a preoccupation with some kind of competition, and all of the problems are comp problems, hence all about volumes and mantles and trickery and bullshit.

I. Just. Want. To. Pull. Hard.

Eventually found their 45 degree board and did some 6Cs and 6C+s.

Then I went to the opera.

Friday: Crossfit in the morning, trying out a new box - hang clean / squat clean / jerk / hang squat clean / jerk complex up to 72.5kgs which felt quite heavy given (a) the complex and (b) an awful nights sleep, followed by pushups and sit-ups. Feeling exhausted, so of course I went for a 6-odd km run, dodging tourists, in Schönbrunn in the afternoon before eating Apfelstrudel in the sun.

Saturday: morning bouldering on the 45 board and Moonboard at Boulderbar Vienna - a really good session, ticking off lots of 6Cs and 6C+s. feeling like things are slowly coming back and that I’m getting back into a shape that isn’t round, despite still being 92kgs thanks to the last few weeks of eating badly and drinking too much. After climbing (and a coffee), went to my new Crossfit gym for a weightlifting class and ended up doing way, way too many snatches and hang snatches, albeit not overly heavy ones. Utterly broken afterwards, so ate pizza at the Naschmarkt and spent the evening reading my book in the park. All very civilised.

Sunday: Woke up feeling like I went rather hard on myself on Saturday (unsurprising) so went for a 6.5km recovery run along the Donau, which started off slow and got faster and faster until I got home and realised that what was supposed to be a recovery run really wasn’t. Oh well.. Ended up eating all of the carbs at the Vienna food festival in the afternoon.

Good week of training, all in all, unfortunately I'm still rather fat but moving out of holiday mode should help with that.

spidermonkey09

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#4 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 10:19:24 am
T - rest.

W - Depot session. Good session on a variety of horrible undercut problems on the 30 board followed by some good FOC. Stepped it up to a move a second which had a fairly brutal effect.

T - Planned on Depot again but decided to have two days rest in anticipation of two days on at the weekend.

F - Rest. Massaged forearms to point of pain Friday evening.

S - Malham. Zoolook. Three redpoints, three times fell going to the sidepull on the traverse before the flake. Took significant whipper each time as was skipping the clip. Nearly gave Al heart failure. Bit ticked off as felt strong on the first two goes but left feeling like it was only a matter of time.

S - back for more at Malham. Really good conditions; cool with a slight breeze. Dogged up once then had a redpoint. Felt pretty average on the lower headwall but gave it a bit of a shout entering the redpoint crux and stuck the move to the sidepull. Grovelled into the flake, tried not to look down at the rope, caught my breath and made the clip. Silent crag collectively breathed out in relief. Cruised up to the top after a slightly nervy rockover into the pockets and a reasonable rest on them! YYFY!

Well psyched to get that done. Easily the hardest thing I've been on and hopefully thats pretty much as hard as 8a's get! Keen for a look at Supercool over the next few weeks and also doing some climbing at other places!


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#5 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 10:29:13 am
Good work SpiderMonkey, wadded!

36chambers

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#6 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 10:48:04 am
Well psyched to get that done. Easily the hardest thing I've been on and hopefully thats pretty much as hard as 8a's get! Keen for a look at Supercool over the next few weeks and also doing some climbing at other places!

Nice one! :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

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#7 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 11:57:41 am
I think my last entry was December. Tweaked my LH middle finger A4 in Dec and then sprained my RH thumb in early Jan (couldn't write for 2 weeks!), so didn't have much to post about. Anyway,

M:
T: Indoors. 30 board. Left shoulder feeling bad from the weekend so trying moves on the smallest crimps without cutting loose.
W:
T: Cliff. Glorious weather so had to get out. Repeated some semi hard stuff and felt considerably stronger on them, which was nice. 
F:
S: Lakes. Gillercombe and Sour Milk Ghyll. Managed The Arete 7B/+ straight after the stand, flashed Lambrini Girl 7B/+ and felt quite close to Downstairs Mixup 8A till the hold fell off :(. Been in touch with Greg so hopefully it can be fixed.
S: Carrock Fell. Climbed Sing a Rainbow 7A, which was excellent, and managed ToeJam and Earl 7C first RP (what an awesome boulder!) using a double toehook and reaching LH under, which was tasty. Ran over to try Metronome 8A at the end of the day but every hold was exceptionally painful on my thrashed skin so didn't stay long. Keen to return for it and to try Space Bum which also looks bon.

Body audit. RH thumb hurts a tad when palming down. LH middle finger gets tender after a hard session. Left shoulder feels okay. Traps are a complete mess as always. Sprained my left knee a few weeks ago and hurts to fully bend, but getting better. :strongbench:

spidermonkey09

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#8 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 01:29:05 pm

Nice one! :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

Good work SpiderMonkey, wadded!

Cheers both! Work not quite delivering the same high...

Nibile

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#9 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 01:56:35 pm
Power Club

Mon - some boxing  bag action, tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing! Yeah, you read it right, I climbed on my board. Did the two easiest problems (6c and 6c+), then repeated them using only one foot at a time. Second one with 8 kg weightvest. Was good to be back. Very tired, before and after.
Thu - climbing class. Hot, humid. Climbed one problem.
Fri - rest.
Sat - power cleans 5x7 80% (64 kg). 1/1x5 farmer's 80 kg. Fantastic.
Sun - rest.

Far too much partying in the last weeks. And it shows.
« Last Edit: May 14, 2018, 02:02:15 pm by Nibile »

moose

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#10 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 02:42:46 pm
Very disappointing session. Only positive is that I've altered the starting sequence which cuts out 3 foot moves and maybe 3/4 secs.

That sounds like a massive positive to me, especially so deep into the process.  With my current project, I suspect I am sadly now at the stage where there are no more worthwhile "cheap" gains to make (new links, improved sequences).  The fun time of pure working goes is over; it's become a matter of just trying to do it... red-pointing with no real hope of red-pointing.  Give it a few weeks and I will fantasize about having a new sequence to note down after a session! 

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#11 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 02:59:52 pm
Very disappointing session. Only positive is that I've altered the starting sequence which cuts out 3 foot moves and maybe 3/4 secs.

That sounds like a massive positive to me, especially so deep into the process.  With my current project, I suspect I am sadly now at the stage where there are no more worthwhile "cheap" gains to make (new links, improved sequences).  The fun time of pure working goes is over; it's become a matter of just trying to do it... red-pointing with no real hope of red-pointing.  Give it a few weeks and I will fantasize about having a new sequence to note down after a session!

That's when people start suggesting skipping clips and you actually waste a session trying to pluck up the courage to do so!

3-4 seconds out of the hardest sequence seems like quite a gain to me as well

teestub

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#12 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 03:08:23 pm
...red-pointing with no real hope of red-pointing. 

Pardon me as a sport climbing punter, but wouldn't this suggest that the route is currently too hard for you, or do you make improvements on the route through this process?

shark

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#13 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 03:10:39 pm
Very disappointing session. Only positive is that I've altered the starting sequence which cuts out 3 foot moves and maybe 3/4 secs.
That sounds like a massive positive to me, especially so deep into the process.  With my current project, I suspect I am sadly now at the stage where there are no more worthwhile "cheap" gains to make (new links, improved sequences). 
3-4 seconds out of the hardest sequence seems like quite a gain to me as well

Thanks Moose & Teaboy,

When I say new it’s approximately the way everyone else does the starting moves but I was too weak to do it that way when I started on the route. Also now have a quicker foot sequence just above.

Not sure how I feel about going back at the minute. If the psyche returns naturally and conditions look promising then I’ll go. In the meantime I’m getting close on Bens Roof.

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#14 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 03:16:46 pm
positive is that I've altered the starting sequence which cuts out 3 foot moves and maybe 3/4 secs.

I'm sure some one once said some thing about climbing faster....

moose

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#15 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 03:37:58 pm
...red-pointing with no real hope of red-pointing. 

Pardon me as a sport climbing punter, but wouldn't this suggest that the route is currently too hard for you, or do you make improvements on the route through this process?

Not really - I am pretty unfit after 5-6 months spent almost entirely bouldering indoors - I suspect (or hope) I have 2-3 grades more fitness in me that should recover given time on rock, without any particular training.  Only a few weeks ago, I was near collapsing from lactate poisoning after 6 moves of my warm-up... things are improving... slowly! 

The route has three cruxes, the first of which is the nastiest; I know I can link the upper two cruxes if I get through the first in a reasonable state.  The provisional plan is to keep trying the route in hopeless RPs that will likely fail at the first crux, but for at least one go a session, make sure I try to link from the end of the low crux to the finish - try to build both fitness and familiarity / speed on the route.

shark

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#16 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 04:49:40 pm
positive is that I've altered the starting sequence which cuts out 3 foot moves and maybe 3/4 secs.

I'm sure some one once said some thing about climbing faster....

And I have attempted to do so.

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#17 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 04:52:47 pm
so, Shark is both stronger and faster

only a matter of time now

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#18 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 05:24:04 pm
so, Shark is both stronger and faster

only a matter of time now

Though as a shark is due to claim his free bus pass soon ;) you might argue time is not on his side..

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#19 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 05:37:20 pm
Shark, maybe if you spend a bit of time trying the start of that route you might find some other better sequences?

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 05:42:15 pm
Indifferent week

M - off work, long walk with kids, 10k run later. Trued intervals for a bit - knackering
T- nowt
W - wall session. First time climbing in about a week and a half, first wall session in about 3 weeks. Felt OK, but skin ran out fairly early.
T - nowt
F- intended boulder session, but onshore strong wind had everything too goppy / greasy / splashed to climb so went for an explore, found a cormorant colony and some nesting black guillemots and razorbills, plus some new probs to go at.
S - Afternoon bike ride - 50k
S - slow run with Kyle on bike, nearly 6.5 km.

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#21 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 07:00:12 pm
Pardon me as a sport climbing punter

Sorry, this is nowhere near the topic, just idle curiosity. How come you don't do roped stuff, Stubbs? Or do you? Your Instagram suggests that you quite like winter walks and things, which would suggest that the appeal of climbing is not just busting out the gnarliest single move you can do. Do you do any trad or sport?

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#22 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 09:01:46 pm
Monday - hot walk around Malham and Goredale with the family, followed by a meal in the Listers.

Tues - bouldering at The Hangar. New cave set, climbed badly, felt weak.

Wed -rest

Thurs - decent fingerboard session. Started to add a little weight.

Friday - beers

Sat - family stuff. Driving back from Warrington and several warning lights came on the car😣

Sun - Got a train to meet Ian P. Went to Goredale. Three runs up The Perfect Mirage. Managed some decent links and found a better sequence on the crux. Held Ian's rope while he dispatched it first redpoint of the year for his second 8a 💪😁.

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#23 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 09:07:11 pm
M bank holiday fun, so just shoulder work, kettle bell swings, squats.

T supposed to go out with plattsy to Anston but back felt not quite right, likely due to worked muscles washing up rather than imminent spasm, I reasoned, but decided not to risk it.
Max hangs, felt hard after a week off, similar scores to previous arson.

W - High Tor, couple of sport warm ups then lead X Factor, the right wing E4. Wanted to do this as a test see how I might feel getting on Flaky Wall, might have been faff jumping back on at my hardest grade having not placed gear for 9 months. Nick did Lyme cryme and I lead through on the top pitch. Finished off by onsighting a 7A on the right wing. Great day, knackered.

Th rest

Fri - Tor, Nick had recently done Little Boots and pimped it as worthwhile and doable in a day with beta. Unfortunately his beta didn't work for me but I found alternatives. Dropped it on easy ground just below the chains on my 3rd go when I started to believe it was done, lost concentration and tried to use Nick's beta.
Fortunately had time for another attempt although had to tape a tip, but once through the crux it felt solid all the way.

S nowt
S nowt again

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#24 Re: Krag Klub 428 7-13 May
May 14, 2018, 09:09:51 pm
Do you do any trad or sport?

In short, no. Time and enthusiasm are the main reasons, I'm not going to bore anyone with a more thorough answer!

 

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