[tomtom]

Groete aan alle lede van die kragklub

M: Rubicon - en route from Manchester > Hull. First visit of the year - and didn't feel too bad warming up on the not 7A 7A that no-one really knows what is included to be 7A. Moved on to Caviar. I left this in November being pretty close ~ and didnt have too much expectation. The main sidepull for the RH was damp, and though responded to drying seeped back slowly during the session... worked out some slightly better beta (LH across to an intermediate - thanks Mike for the suggestion last year) and FELT GOOD. Slapped for the final hold a couple of times - which was good going given it was really just a sighter for the beginning of the season. Bumped into Highrepute & New family which was great - felt weak as a kitten on the Press and went home...

We: Back to Wilton 2 to try R-Mans new 7's... Climbing after a hard day at work, and a long drive, with only an hour to climb in is rarely condusive to a good session. I felt really rubbish. Skin was glassy - took ages to get going - things that stuck the week before didnt. I couldnt do the topout (took 3 attempts to work..) and broke a fairly important foothold which probably makes it a decent bit harder for me. Bah.

Fri: Overcast (tick). Wind (tick). Cool temps (tick). Back to Rubicon then :D Bumped into Haydn and Mike who were off chuffing...

Psyche was high for Caviar. Quick warm up. First (tester) go felt so so solid - threw for final hold, caught it well and RH spooged out of the (still seeping) sidepull/flake. That was as good as it got. I rested properly (10 min between efforts) with 6 attempts - never quite as good as the first one. That problem drains me... I'm fighting pretty much every one of the 8 moves on the problem. I don't think the last move is the hardest necessarily (if it were the first it would be readily nailed on by now) but happens when I'm drained... I suspect its core thats failing me (sagging feelings) but man, 6 x 20 second attempts and I'm ferked... there was nothing left in the tank...

Sat and Sunday - devoted to arguing with my wife and a trip to the seaside (neither were mutually exclusive)

[Andy F]

Thanks Tom

Tues - bouldering at The Hangar, lots of stuff upto V7, a couple of laps on the circuit board to finish.
Thurs - 45 mins fingerboard session. Felt better than last week.
Sun - Cheedale Cornice. 5 trips up Unleashing. Crux starting undercuts wet. Went from ground to undercuts, then RH undercut/LH pinch to belay x5. Found better sequence for the finish. Can't wait till it's all dry and it's game on. 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - either rest or something very light.
Tue - low PE 30/30 x15, terrifying. Ab wheel and clean and press combo x5 back to back.
Wed - metcon complex x5.
Thu - climbing class. Glutes screaming. Went vulture mode, jumped on a problem that two friends were trying, dispatched in a vulgar display of power and left, leaving them to their ramblings: "that's a dyno", "that's morpho", "there's an intermediate", etc. Mean motherfucker. Problem was about 6b.
Fri - high pulls into snatch, high pulls static. Brilliant.
Sat - Klokov complex, then deadlifts. Was quite well recruited and flashed back up to 2xBW with a slight deficit.
 

Sun - after a night out was quite worked, so wanted to "sweat it out". Turned out a beautiful session. Overhead carry 40 kg 5x1'. Empty bar power cleans one monster set of 100 in 3'45". Brutal. Farmer's walk 80 kg 5x1'. Pull ups 5x5. Boxing bag. Phew!

[shark]

11.1-3 average 156.6 down 1lb on week

M. Malham. Up with Jerome, Oli, Steve and Mina. Similar session to friday ie got through throw move once and fell off just before getting undercut on top traverse. I thought conditions were OK but everyone else thought it was a bit warm.

T.

W. Foundry. Bit of autobelay and messing round on the campus board with Karl and Lisa. Home. Did a few dumbell exercises. Single deadlift - 145kg. Nice

T.

F.. Malham. Up with Steve, Mina, Maddy and Buster (sounds like a gang from a children's book). Met Gus there who wanted to try the Oak. Warm then OK. Felt a bit out of it - forgot rope again (3rd time this year!). Lost count of number of goes from the ground. Maybe 7 or 8 all getting to setting up or doing throw.but not getting the horn. Attempted throw to top at end. Dabbled with changing my starting moves which makes it more powerful but quicker. Decent volume, good crowd. Impressed with Gus's recovery drink - bottle of beer.

S

S

Original plan was to Malham again tomorrow but too hot for that. Next scheduled visit is Friday when its forecast to be cooler. Going to try Ben's again tomorrow and then back to Tor again Tuesday to probably get back on Anger Management with Nick.     

[nai]

M Rowtor to try yoghurt hypnotist while it was still cool. Turned out to be too cold in the wind. Previous day's campus laddering still in my forearms, felt tired and climbed poorly, decided to have an easy week.
2x10 mins AeroCap back home so I could rest on Tuesday.

T - Session with Tim. Quite hard, mobility going ok, adding some strengthening work for shoulder weaknesses.

W rest

Th Tor. Didn't climb well, tired again, clunky, skin sore despite the days off. Not on the happy bus.

Fr Moat. Poor start having to dog the warm up. Looked like it was going to be another one of those days. Decided to get on Coming Up For Air as it'd been rebolted and it meant no pressure to succeed being harder than I've ever managed in one session. Then surprised myself by doing it 3rd go. Great fight at the top, making the crux moves totally boxed having been sure while working it that I didn't have a chance of doing those moves from the ground. Therapy.

S rest

S bike ride with reluctant kids at little more than walking pace. Tedious.
Wanted to at least do my conditioning Tim stuff but no time unfortunately.

[shark]

Nice one nai. Peak 7c is never a gift. I’ve never one in a day. Struggling to think of a 7b+, or even a 7b come to that

[nai]

Cheers, Moat seems to be the place I do things quickest.
Done a number of 7b+/7c routes in a session or a sessions worth of tie-ins.
I'm not sure whether that's because it suits or it's soft or it's somewhere I've climbed a lot since improving base fitness.

[the_dom]

I'm back! I’ve decided to re-join this for two reasons - reason one is that I’ve started climbing again, after a ten month and 8 kilogram hiatus (I have crested 92kgs, which is bad!) and reason two is that I’ve moved to Vienna from Cape Town and am feeling the psyche to get out again, but will probably need some motivation to stick at it.

Monday: If it’s Monday, then it must be Johannesburg. Staying with the in-laws but luckily the only commercial gym in town is nearby so I sneak in for my second session in 10 months. Managed lots of boulders up to 6C, followed by alternating deadlifts, power cleans and front squats with max hangs on Tension board 7mm and 10mm holds. 7mm holds felt nails, but 10mm felt ok.

Tuesday: 6.7km run around Johannesburg.

Wednesday: Back at the gym for 2 hours of trying harder before flying out to Vienna. Repeated lots of stuff up to 6C and came close-ish on some 7As

Thursday: Made it to Vienna, with enough time to go for a quick boulder at the gym conveniently close to our apartment - not a great session though, as I was travel-weary and it was 26 degrees.

Friday: 8km run along the Donau in the morning. In the PM, I managed to find a Crossfit gym and joined for a workout. As I had 30 mins before I warmed up with deadlifts up to 120kgs, and snatches up to 60kgs (only 2kgs under my PB strangely). In retrospect, maybe this (and the run) was not a great idea because the actual workout destroyed me. I resorted to taking the Ubahn back to our apartment - one stop!

Saturday: Another boulder and some hangboarding. So hot. Quite miserable, but managed to tick off one or two problems I hadn’t managed the previous session.

Sunday: A relaxed 10km amble around the Vienna woods with a beer stop in the middle. Very civilised.

[Coops_13]

81.4kg -> 80.8kg

M: 30 mins of core, theraband, stretching and 100 press-ups
T: Arch. Fingerboard session then 4X4s on the main overhang. Finished with four sets of campusing up and down, (attempted) locking off on every move
W:
T:
F: Drive to Font
S: Hot Font - Started at l'Elephant and did the highball Gruyere which was v good before looking at Barre Fixe. Did the 6C arete to the left, couldn't touch the sitter itself. Went to Franchard Raymond and did The Big G dyno 7A+ which went v quickly. Finished the day at Rainbow Rocket getting nowhere...
S: Hot Font - Started at Mont Ussy, falling off the top of Ussy Cat. Went to Les Beorlots and did 74% de Cacao 7A with towel knee-pad
M: Hot Font - Cuisiniere failing on a number of problems including Entorse, Pensees Cachees, Plastikman. Almost did El Poussah at the end of the day but ran out of time

Super hot in Font meant the problems all felt super hard and I felt super weak. Plan is to continue training and cutting for the next month before Magic.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rest

T - Depot. pretty reasonable session on the circuit board. Feeling a bit bored of this though so might try something else in an effort to keep the psyche high as not sure I'm trying hard enough. Any ways to increase the interest level appreciated!

W - rest.

T - Depot. Good session on the board doing lots of volume on some undercut problems. Good to catch up with some old friends and realise that I am now reasonably strong on undercuts! Session degenerated into piss taking and competition on the foot on campusing. Conclusion was I need to step it up to a move a second to really get a pump going. Not psyched!

F - working from home due to tour de yorkshire; glory!

S - Malham, Zoolook. Not too bad, no new high point but felt way stronger coming out of the rest. Sorted a much better clipping position for the clip next to the groove. Was confident leaving the session that progress was imminent as the moves after the one I kept falling off arent too bad.

S - rest. Mostly reading on a park bench in the sun. People who take speakers to public places have a special place in hell.

M - Malham again. Hot but conditions not dreadful, crag deserted- result! Finally some real progress. A new high point each time I had a redpoint (three times), the last time falling off going to the undercut pocket. Also linked from the rest to the top (with the tricky draw clipped) and from the start of the groove sequence to the top (skipping the clip). Good to actually do the run out and clip the next bolt at the flake when pumped and scared; its fine. Sorted new sequence on the traverse which is much higher percentage and have taped extended draw out of the way at the top flake to get it off the crucial holds (stupid bolt placement!). Mint conditions last go of the day; if I'd been fresh I think I would have done it.

Breakthrough session on Zoolook; finally its got to that stage of when not if, as long as I keep heading down there. Hopefully go midweek after work if I can swing it with the management, if not will go at the weekend. Feel very close now, its all in the mind...

[Will Hunt]

Krag Klub is the best alternate Power Club name to yet be aired. Wadded.

[tomtom]

Krag Klub is the best alternate Power Club name to yet be aired. Wadded.

:D I was inspired after watching Chappie...

[tommytwotone]

I actually did some stuff.

Goal: Font 7anything

M: Nowt, shoulder still griping.
T: Nowt, shoulder still griping.
W: Session with Tim, came away with further exercises, but feeling better.

Managed to get time / traffic / weather etc to align to grab a post work session at Froggatt.

Spent ages re-climbing a 6b+ I've done before (why oh why do I do this to myself?) and then moved on to check out Glass Slipper (no chance) and then some of the stuff over the brook from Old King Cascade. Finished by getting repeatedly spat off a 6a that climbs a funky hanging triangular wall.

T: Felt like I'd been run over by a bus.
F: Nowt
S: Nowt apart from a walk round Ogden Valley Reservoir, naive to the fact that there's a crag 5 mins away.
S: Nowt apart from swimming in the morning with eldest.
M: Nowt apart from eating a huge BBQ lunch / tea and drinking a load of ale.

[duncan]

STG - Manage aches, pains and other ailments. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before.
LTG - 5.13 at 60

M - Westway rehab. bouldering ~6 problems to red (V1/2)
T - Westway rebab. routes: 6 to 5+
W - Westway rehab. bouldering. ~8 problems to yellow (V2/3)
T - Shoulder stuff
F - Drove to Pembroke with The Architect, met Wil there.
S - Rusty Walls and The Castle: Strike Lucky, Lucky Strike, Too Much Pressure and Calamity Jane. The latter was a line I considered as a new route in the 90s but dismissed as inconsequential. No UKC logged ascents in 20 years  suggests my view was shared. Pleasant climbing but very short, E3 6a is about right.
S - Space Buttress and St Govan’s: Space, Air Space Factor, The Butcher and War Crime. 
M - Trevallen and Chapel Point: Fulmar Pants, Ultravixens, Octobrina and Blockheads. The latter two are both excellent and relatively unheralded E2-3s.

Excellent weekend in Pembroke with glorious weather after a misty start on Saturday. Lots of routes still quite seepy or damp, the Leap west wall was out. Good to get on some E3s and felt I climbed reasonably well considering woeful fitness but acutely aware of the clock ticking very quickly on anything remotely steep.

Strictly speaking I have considerably over-done things. Psychologically helpful if not ideal shoulder rehabilitation. Completely battered now, can’t lift my arm more than 30 degrees.

Plan: recover.