[shark]

11.2-4 Av 157.6lb up 0.1lb on last week

M. Malham. Up with Mina Ryan and Oli. Met Serpico there just after 1230. Cloudy 10 degrees bit of a breeze at times. Good connies. F&EEE x2 Cons x 1. Go 1 warm up Go 2-6 failing around undercut by 3rd bolt. Final 7th go failing to do throw to top. Ready to throw towel in by Go3 but kept at it. Rainy and really cold by end Contemplated canning it on way home but decided will have one more session on Friday before quitting.

T.

W. Some foam rolling, floor exercises and therabanding. Foundry to do easy autobelaying but on a whim did some campusing as thought a neursl jolt might do some good. Felt ok but an hour after felt wiped

T.

F. Malham.Judgement day. Best outcomes would be that I did badly or well. Worst would be somewhere between the two that made it hard to decide whether to continue for the season. Rainy and cold. Went with just Keith. Mint at the crag - had forgotten what mint was. Only a handful at crag. Warm up on cons. Warm up on Oak. Go 1 almost held horn Go 2 same Go 3 Got it! (First time since autumn 16) pulled thru and clipped bolt felt tired at horn pushed out but right foot not placed well and left hand greased off the horn. Go 4 Almost got horn Go 5 Tapped horn Go 6 attempted throw to top and fell off top traverse. In 4 out 5 goes I was strong enough to set up properly for the throw and nearly or actually got it. Also psychologically good to have pulled up though could have got a lot higher than I did as didn’t fall off due to strength/endurance failure

S.

S.

Like last week a game of two halves except that I went from a low to a high. Obviously will persist with the Oak but no idea on my chance of success.

I did the campusing to do something sufficiently different to shake off staleness. Lot of stories of people doing something entirely unrelated in the days before Redpoint success. Might throw in some weights as well this week for similar reasons.

[duncan]

Stick with it Simon

STG - Manage health. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before. Something on the Marmolada this summer (this plan seems to be slipping...)
LTG - 5.13 at 60


M -
T - Shoulder stuff
W - Westway routes to 6a+
T - Shoulder stuff (shoulder sore)
F - Shoulder stuff
S - Westway routes to 5+
S - Shoulder stuff

Mediocre week: allergic reaction to the Swanage caterpillars got worse before it got better, shoulder particularly sore necessitating switch from training back to rehabilitation, morale low. Cancelled Swanage trip on Saturday due to dodgy weather, dodgy shoulder, dodgy wildlife, and a team who wasn’t convinced either.

Plan: off to Pembroke for the Bank Holiday with a good team and promising forecast, not in great form but 5+ indoors equates to about E3 at St Govan’s so that’s the goal for the weekend. Meanwhile, carry on with the shoulder regime and do a couple of gentle auto-belay sessions.

[tomtom]

Thought you'd done it then Shark! only to realise this meant you'd managed to grasp your horn whatever that may mean. Anyway - well done...

M: Work

Tu: Work

We: A DAY PASS! And a rubbish forecast.... knowing most of the lime wasnt in great shape, I headed for some high up grit and decided to go to Windy Clough... I wanted to check out a 7A on the Shield boulder - but this involved a c.20min scramble over bad scree/blocks (with lots of hidden ankle trap holes etc..) to find out it was wet.. Had lunch, 20 min scramble back down to the other bits. Got stuck into country for old men (campussy 7A - that I eventually managed to repeat) and then to try the 7B+ version of no country for old men... Made quite alot of progress then ran out of beans...

Th:

Fri: Fieldwork up in Pickering again... Had a spare 90 min before I had to head home but the weather was bad (fairly heavy rain) so checked out Ravenswick Quarry for the first time. Had a decent session on the most overhanging wall (but still the mat got half wet) and managed a 7A (Black Spider/Widow/Something?) which I really enjoyed (despite holing a tip on the sucessful attempt). The mag lime is great - bit more grit and texture than the Peak stuff. Cheers for the suggestion Webbo.

Sa: Looked like a decent day out - cool - breeze - overcast. Decided to head up to Wilton 2 to try Robins new 7A on the wings (called Reach for the Tsars). Warmed up on Purple Feel and headed over. Came really close then ran out of gas and skin which wasn't surprising since it was second day on....

Su: Family day out...

A good week - managing to squeeze in some good (quick) sessions around everything else, and first new 7 for a while.. feeling strong and in decent form.

Sa:

[moose]

so checked out Ravenswick Quarry for the first time. Had a decent session on the most overhanging wall (but still the mat got half wet) and managed a 7A (Black Spider/Widow/Something?) which I really enjoyed (despite holing a tip on the sucessful attempt). The mag lime is great - bit more grit and texture than the Peak stuff. Cheers for the suggestion Webbo.

I had a couple of happy sessions at Ravenswick when the North Yorkshire guide first came out.  Ticked a few 7s that despite being incredibly contrived eliminates, were really satisfying.  To me, it's one of those "guilty pleasure" crags; you have a good time but are reluctant to praise it to others, as you suspect that your own pleasure is somehow aberrant, and any "normal" person would have hated it!

[Yossarian]

not in great form but 5+ indoors equates to about E3 at St Govan’s so that’s the goal for the weekend.

Another excellent indication of my own incompetence...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - went to a climbing gym! Did a few easier problems and then crawled my way up the hardest ones (that were as hard as the warm ups on my board). My elbow played ball and I'm full of hope. Wrist gave no sign of pain. Is the worst behind?
Tue - rest.
Wed - low PE 30/30 x10, brilliant. Snatch pulls, 40x5, 45x5, 50x5, 60x1, 65x2x3, 60x5x3. Incredible how different they are from cleans. Front lever pulls 5x3.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - dumbbell complex/pull ups back to back, 5x5x2.
Sun - power cleans 75% (60 kg) and farmer's walk (80 kg) complex x5, 30" rests, as beautiful as brutal.

[Coops_13]

82.1kg -> 81.4kg

STG: Cut and scope out some 7Cs in font
MTG: 7C

M: 30 mins of core, theraband, stretching and 100 press-ups

T: Active recovery walk - 32 mins 2.7km

W: Fingerboard session then did two lots of 4X4s, one on 6B-ish thing on L side of main overhang, one on 6A+ moonboard, bloody knackering.

T: 30 mins of core, theraband, stretching and 100 press-ups

F: Fingerboard session then endurance. Did 5 X two laps of the 2/4 difficulty circuit with 5 mins rest in between. Last lap continued on 2 more laps of easiest circuit but stopped as wasn't getting more pumped. Then did a lap of the long roof and one of the traversing wall

S:

S: Checked out Vauxwall East for the first time with mates. Nice-sized wall but training area not as good as the arch. No woodie (just a moonboard) and no rings/bars with room above to do muscle-ups

Cut still going well, off to Font for the BH weekend though it's looking warm...

[spidermonkey09]

Nice one Simon. Keep at it.

M - Day off work after illness all weekend. Starved self in an effort to kill the bug which worked pretty well, did loads of life admin and generally got organised; much better than working!

T - Rest day; would normally have been climbing but decided not to push my luck.

W - rest.

T - Depot. Pretty good session. Felt strong on the board after a few days rest and did some good undercut 4x4 problems in an effort to train specific route weaknesses on Zoolook. Finished off with a great session of foot on campusing; 8 x 1 minute on, 30 seconds off, 10 mins rest, then failed on the 5th rep. Felt pretty comfortable most of the time which was very pleasing. May need to start adding weight to make this worthwhile going forward.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Morning session as I was pushed for time. Draws in Zoolook (!) which admittedly did help in this regard! First go up fell off crux moves after the rest. Worked out better sequence which feels higher percentage and also fiddled with clipping positions for the tricky clip. Conclusion is its not worth clipping it so have decided to push on as it adds about four moves to the sequence. Second go pretty good, new high point from the deck. Did the crux moves and then the matrix sequence around the flake before falling off. Third go was pretty average, rushed as running out of time and sun was on it. On balance made progress, just need to stick at it. Hopefully push the high point up at the weekend.

S - rest.

This week; Depot tonight and Thursday, Malham Sat and Monday. Do some foam rolling and stretching on the off days.

[shark]

Nice one Simon. Keep at it

Thanks. Baking here now. Too hot even for warm ups yet.

and also fiddled with clipping positions for the tricky clip. Conclusion is its not worth clipping it so have decided to push on as it adds about four moves to the sequence.

Makes for a big fall and distraction if it’s the one on the head wall just above the short groove. Worth experiment with a 4 ft sling. You can get into an Egyptian with your left hand on a side pull and clip at crotch height by literally just pushing the krab against the rope

[spidermonkey09]

Makes for a big fall and distraction if it’s the one on the head wall just above the short groove. Worth experiment with a 4 ft sling. You can get into an Egyptian with your left hand on a side pull and clip at crotch height by literally just pushing the krab against the rope

Yeah it is a chunky fall isn't it? Taken a few practice lobs and theres no doubt it does get in your head a bit even though its fundamentally fine. I was messing around with the drop knee beta and could get it clipped easily once in the position, but it was absolutely gassing me getting into it. It might get easier as I get fitter I guess, but its about four foot moves off that shit left hand and if was to do those moves vertically I'd have my left hand in the undercut pocket at least...

Tricky one but that headwall feels so hard I think I might persevere with skipping it unless I run into a real mental block on the last moves to the flake... Will try with a long sling perhaps as suggested.

[nai]

M embankment mileage, first time or this year, rusty.
T was heading to Rowtor when my rain alarm app burst into life. Diverted to Tom's cave only to find a nice fresh turd underneath the traverse so on to Rubicon to boulder briefly then home for first attempt at Integrated Strength workout. Deadhang scores unaffected by deadlift, squats & bench press performed in "rest" period.
W rest
Th more embankment mileage. Knackered.
F AnCap plus some deadlift, squats and inverted hip raise things.
S intended to do campus laddering but forearms were struggling, so rest.
S campus laddering. Still not exactly recovered but battled through. Scores are odd this year, instead of a steady decline I seem to crash after 3 reps but then can maintain quite a high score for several reps. Not sure if that means lacking AeroPow but ok AeroCap?
So I did a lattice format test and after the 75% rep, managed to score 76%,59%,49%,41%,43%,42%. The 3rd rep beating the 2nd suggests ok AeroCap I think but same pattern of decline and level off. Anyone care to have a stab at interpreting that?

[Andy F]

As I'm back in the sport climbing game, it's time to join up to fit club again.

Aims:
Mid-term - 7c
Long-term - 8a

Mon - rest 
Tues - bouldering and some circuits at the Hangar
Wed - rest
Tues - fingerboard. Pullups, repeaters and one arm hangs, large rungs only, no added weight as the elbow and wrist need looking after.
Fri - 
Sat - family stuff, avengers film 
Sun - Malham. Rose Coronary (two goes), Frankenstein (two goes, fell off last move both times), Wasted Youth (second go), Consenting to finish.
A long way from where I was and where I want to be, but a good start.

[moose]

Sun - Malham. Rose Coronary (two goes), Frankenstein (two goes, fell off last move both times), Wasted Youth (second go), Consenting to finish.
A long way from where I was and where I want to be, but a good start.

And it was very nice to see you again... doesn't seem like so long ago I was belaying you on Air Rage.

[Andy F]

Sun - Malham. Rose Coronary (two goes), Frankenstein (two goes, fell off last move both times), Wasted Youth (second go), Consenting to finish.
A long way from where I was and where I want to be, but a good start.

And it was very nice to see you again... doesn't seem like so long ago I was belaying you on Air Rage.

You too Luke. As I said at the crag, your climbing speed has shot up, and you look to be going well.

Air Rage, that's still to be finished off. Could be one to look at later in the year. What did you think of it?

[moose]

Cheers, although, I was far from going well.  I am still in my post-winter state where anything but a 6 move boulder problem on plastic feels like an unjustifiable horrible ordeal.  To ease my adjustment to Malham I am thinking of covering all the holds on my woodie in broken glass.

Re Air Rage.  I found it bit horrible but really satisfying, and bit ungradeable as it is so bouldery (Perfect Storm, the WYSIWYG extension is similar).  Gradewise, 7c felt bloody mean; I got it second session but I was in the form of my life (had just done Urgent).  I reckon solid 7c+, unless there's a cheaty method involving resting out left and using the pocket of Direct Flight.  Powerful and tenuous and a bit scary having to climb past the crux clip and do it afterwards.

[Andy F]

Yeah, using the pocket out left feels easier and less scary, as well as less reachy and powerful.

[moose]

Yeah, using the pocket out left feels easier and less scary, as well as less reachy and powerful.

My method was definitely "reachy and powerful" - done "proper" that route is in the same seldom-done-sandbag category as that direct finish to No More Jumping to Conclusions.

spidermonkey09
My beta for that clip on Zoolook was an 18+25cm extender for a waist height clip.  You step through the right foot through to outside edge on the rail used earlier as a right-hand gaston, face left and press left toe against a spike, far out to the left; then push the rope into the QD with the right hand 

The key is to have the gate of the QD on the left side - it's the "wrong" side since you traverse left afterwards, but it makes the clip a lot easier. 

Another bit of advice is make sure that anyone trying the route unclips the crux QD and the one below whilst lowering off.  Otherwise, those QDs have a habit of flipping upside down and jamming in the bolt when the rope is pulled - ruined a few of my RPs when I arrived at the crux and had to completely remove and then replace the draw.

[measles23]

M - 0
T - Anston; woody’s = roof cracks all sopping wet - static on the top wall of VS but sufficiently pissed at another wasted trip that decided to sack off VS siege until some proper hot weather has dried things out... Then promptly left my chalk bucket behind, ensuring I’ll have to go back this week when it will most likely still be wet 
Took frustrations out down the Strength Asylum with 11 sets deadlift including 5 singles at 225 felt mighty - new setup now well oiled and sweet, although I’ve an idea of some changes to experiment with to introduce a plyometric reflex.. 6 yrs of working this single move every week and I’m still messing with the microbeta
W - 0
T - 0
F - 0
S - Max hangs BM micros open crimp- 9 sets up to a pleasingly solid +20kg x 5s on the 8s; bunch of working sets at +15
S - spotted for Alison at Stoke AW; she’s climbing well but I’m sacking off the wall for awhile as it still aggravates my ferked finger while rock and fingerboard don’t..

YYFY = planning permission passed for 12m x 5m garage with pre-existing pass from t’wife to board it up - finally the dream training facility could be coming, tho god knows if I’ll ever be uninjured enough to use it

[csl]

This week

- at least 1 Green at the Arch - done
- a session on the moonboard - fail

April goals

- 5 Greens at the Arch - 2/5 close on a few more though
- Benchmark 7B on the moonboard - fail, not been on the board!
- Weight < 72kg - fail!

this year

7C
hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: 72.7kg -> 73.3kg - this is sneaking back up...

Monday

Arch B1

Ok session, did most of the new set apart from 2 greens and a white

Wednesday

Arch B1

Did one of the greens from Monday, a long 7A+. Close on two other greens, both crimpy wall climbing.

Friday

Arch B1

New overhang reset, found it all quite hard. Close on a red, some goes on a green.

May Goals - basically a repeat of April

Be on good form for Magic Wood by:

getting weight < 72kg
doing 5 Greens
doing a benchmark 7B on the moonboard

Coming Week

- session on the moonboard, find new projects
- tick off 1 green project

[Coops_13]

YYFY = planning permission passed for 12m x 5m garage with pre-existing pass from t’wife to board it up - finally the dream training facility could be coming, tho god knows if I’ll ever be uninjured enough to use it

Wad for this