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UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April (Read 6514 times)

shark

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UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 22, 2018, 02:16:38 pm
11.3-4 (Average 157.5lb 0.6lb increase on last week )

M. Up with Mina, Steve and Rab. Oak dry. Too warm to begin with then cooled nicely. First time on Oak for 3 weeks so not sure how it would go at all. Climbed with Mina. 2 x F&EEE. Go 1 Warm up 15 min rest Go 2 Ground to touching horn with foot slippage longer break Go 3 Felt strong and almost held the horn 15 min rest Go 4 Ground to fumbling undercut by third - felt tired. Go 5 same as go4 Go 6 undercut by third ie throw to top Go 7 attempted same link again but pinged off middle of top traverse. Good session.
,
T. Met csl for first time at Tor. He was trying Cave Problem but then joined me on Ben’s. Ben's was greasy especially pinch and some of low footholds. Had low expectations given it was second day on. Felt strong and did some good links best being were start to karate kick move and first knee bar to start of Too Hard for Mark Leach. Felt I’d reached a new level.

W.

T.

F. Malham Up with Mina, Keith and Steve but climbed together with Dave Heselden on the Oak when there. Left late to miss the sun and got to crag for 3.30pm which made for a compressed session. Rock was warm but not bad. Unusually low humidity made footholds in particular skiddy. 3 x Cons. Go 1 Warm up. Go 2&3 Ground to touching the horn Go 4  Ground to undercut by 3rd bolt Go 5 Throw to middle of top traverse. Disappointing but a lovely day nonetheless – 54th birthday. Home at 10.30pm   

S.  Felt tired and achey. PM Gardening Eve Bottle of wine

S.

A week of two halves. Went from feeling bionic and ebullient to feeling broken and downcast. On paper my performance on the Oak on Friday should have been much better even factoring in the odd conditions. Back again tomorrow with apprehension. Looks to be good conditions. 

tomtom

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#1 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 22, 2018, 04:23:10 pm
Thought of engaging the services of Cambridge Analytica for the Oak Shark? They’ve a recent history of winning seemingly improbable situations ;)

Me and 3T are presently working up the odds on this Oak season and will also be offering ‘in play’ bets on whether you touch the horn etc... presently we have a Oak/Bens rood dab accumulator with very attractive odds. if you see a bet365 drone hovering nearby try not to feel the pressure. :)

shark

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#2 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 22, 2018, 04:58:56 pm
Closer to doing Ben’s than the Oak but then it is easier and always dry.

No idea what rood means.

There is £500 for CAC riding if I do tick the Oak.

csl

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#3 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 22, 2018, 07:16:18 pm
This week

Try a 7C in the peak, do a couple of 7's - did four 7's, and tried Ben's Roof
Another 7B in Wales on the weekend - fail
a proper session on one of my "lifetime list" - a great session on Jerry's Roof

April goals

- 5 Greens at the Arch - 1/5
- Benchmark 7B on the moonboard
- Weight < 72kg

this year

- 7C
- hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: 72.7kg -> ?

Tuesday

Raven Tor, most of the things I wanted to try were wet so did Saline Drip Sit 7A and A Little Extra Direct 7A in a couple of goes each. Tried Cave Problem at few times, best effort was kicking my heel into the weedkiller jug but not really getting it properly. Shark arrived and promptly burnt me off on Ben's Rood, I did some but not all the moves and generally struggled.

Wednesday

Anston - nice weather, some wet footholds. Did Blind Bat 7A first try of the day, then did Last Stand 7A. Tried Alpha for a while, some progress. Got to the move to the pockets from the start, found the pockets too painful without any finger tape. Tried Beta Blocker and got a sequence but didn't manage it in the end.

Saturday

Big day in north wales.

Cromlech - some pottering on roadside, did Jerry's Roof finish 6C+ then got stuck into Jerry's Roof (tourist tick) did all the moves quickly, crux move to pocket felt ok after I found the correct feet. Got pretty hot and skin was hurting so gave up after an hour but pleased with how it felt! Did Cromlech Roof Crack 7A. Drove to Supercrack 7A, flashed it. Failed to get anywhere on Super Hans, cool looking problem! Quick hit to Craig y Llyn on the way home, did Voie Normale 6B but failed to do the sit.

Sunday

Pantymywn

Did Embers 6C+, Firestarter 7A, Firestarter Sparks Finish 7A+, Panty's Down 7A+ and Singed Possum 7A. Some brief attempts on some 7B's but no success.

A great week, pleased to do 10 7's (more than I did in the whole of 2017)

Coming Week

- at least 1 Green at the Arch
- a session on the moonboard
« Last Edit: April 22, 2018, 07:31:34 pm by csl »

tomtom

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#4 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 22, 2018, 07:24:38 pm
Great week CSL!

shark

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Duma

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#6 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 22, 2018, 08:23:00 pm
wadded CSL  :clap2:

tomtom

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#7 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 22, 2018, 09:19:54 pm
M: Manchester > Hull (work) > Manchester

T:

We: Healey Nab. Met up with R-Man and Tim - who were clearing some new problems. I did a 5 and a 6B+ I'd not done before and had a good but not completely successful play on a 7B+, 7B and a 7A. Lovely day and not really surprising with the warmth that nothing went down...

Th:

Fr: Fieldwork near Pickering - then drive over to Reeth. Got keys to B&B then legged it over to Colsterdale and to Slipstones. Got to the crag about 7:15 - really pretty decent conditions considering it had been hot and sunny all day. Just starting to cool down, enough of a breeze to keep the insects at bay. Did a load of 5's and low 6's that I'd not done in years (possibly 10) and really enjoyed that. Got really stuck into Layby arete (which felt in decent nick) and got pissed off that my LF wouldnt stick on the arete on the first move (tried loads of different high foot methods etc..). Anyway - gave up and scared the crap out of myself topping out a 5 which gave me a decent adrenaline buzz on the walk back to the car..

Later that evening discovered I'd had the same problem on layby arete and posted here how I overcame it. Doh. FFS etc...

Sa: Fieldwork above Gunnerside.. cracking day again - then drive back across the tops to Kirkby Steven and Manchester.

Su: The calling of the lime also corresponded with me opening my Sandstone season with a trip to Helsby. Good one hour session. Still got it :)

Been alot of travelling this week. A 700 mile week...  Feels like I've stemmed my climbing losses from a difficult month and hopefully start cranking on the Lime again.

nai

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#8 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 22, 2018, 10:43:35 pm
M: Manchester > Hull (work) > Manchester

On a bike or did you run it?

tomtom

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#9 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 06:53:56 am
M: Manchester > Hull (work) > Manchester

On a bike or did you run it?

Pogo stick.

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#10 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 08:05:03 am
Good one CSL!

M-10k run
T-wet lime, half hearted play on Jerry’s trav, didn’t hit my numbers on max hangs
W-10k
T-5k, hot works session, all the regulars were there but the take it or leave it crowd were presumably enjoying the sun
F-5k, kids session at RHS
S-family session at a hot plantation
S-family session at burbage boulders. Cannot for the life of me remember how to do Puck Sit. This took two goes two years ago but now it’s a mystery. 5k.

Coasting this week but enjoying it.

Coops_13

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#11 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 08:36:21 am
82.8kg -> 82.1kg

STG: Cut
MTG: 7C

M: Arch. Session on the Moonboard. Load of BenchMarks: 7 6A+, 2 6B, 1 6B+, 3 6C, 3 6C+
T: Gym with gf (she had bring a friend to gym week) Bench pressed my body weight then tried weighted pull-ups for the first time. Worked up to a 1RM of +45kg which I was fairly happy with, wasn't too hard so could see quick improvement if I put time into it. Then did a few supersets of push exercises (shoulder press, lat raise, arnold press etc.) and finished off with 50 press-ups. Pooped.
W: Arch, super hot and super sweaty. New big overhang problems, new own problem on the 50: https://www.instagram.com/p/BhuSxoajsBI/ MoonBoard BenchMarks - 3 6A+, 1 6B, 2 7A
T:
F: Drive to N Wales with csl
S: Cromlech to start with, flailed a lot on Bus Stop 7B+. Found this hard and skin v sore after. Managed to send a nice link of Cromlech Roof Crack Alcove Exit 7A+ which adds some nice moves. Went to Supercrack 7A which both csl and my other mate promptly flashed  8) Took me a few goes to get it before I got into trying Super Hans 7B. Such a good problem, definitely one of the best I've done in Wales:

S: Pantymwyn. Too may beers and too much weakness forced me to get shut down on Firestarter into Sparks, Gasoline Stand and Pantys Down
« Last Edit: April 23, 2018, 08:44:32 am by Coops_13 »

nai

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#12 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 09:11:53 am
picking up from return from holiday so a week and a bit:

W 11th nowt
Th 12 nowt

Fr Prolonged warm up working a new AnCap problem, managed a couple of hard boulders then got on the Fingerboard

S bonus pass, plan A was Rowtor but Mrs wanted me to run an errand that put me an hour away but only 20 minutes from Anston.
Half decent seesion, manned up enough to finish some wave wall problems, had a play on some 7Bs in the area before checking out hidden wall for the first time, almost flashed Screaming Dream then took another eight attempts to get close again but RH greased as I hit the top, eventually did it at bout 15th attempt. Nice problem, great move.

S nowt

M AnCap, decent session,

T AeroCap - switching to one session per week as the season arrives.

W rest

Th Garage Board - couple of hard boulders including a FA then Fingerboard - still making gains, thiught I'd have plateaud by now.

F Burbage South with Plattsy, seemed a decent bet in the heat, reasonable connies. Still can't do the same problems I couldn't do last time a couple of years back

S Campus Laddering, first session of the year, forgotten how painful it is.

S rest

spidermonkey09

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#13 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 10:39:47 am
M- Rest.
T- Depot. Incredibly hot session on the circuit board. Abysmal conditions. Rescued it a bit towards the end but somewhat disappointing compared to the week before.
W- Rest.
T- Depot. Incredibly hot again. Felt pretty terrible on the board but put it down to conditions. In hindsight was getting ill and trying hard made it worse. Finished off with a good set of FOC.
F- Ill. Went to work for some reason. Should have sacked it off. Went to bed at 6pm!
S- Malham. Back on Zoolook. Felt a bit better but couldn't eat much. Did the first hard move after the rest from the ground and promptly fell off. Also took the whip from the top a few times having decided to skip the tricky clip. Scary but safe!
S- back to Malham. Felt worse if anything! Linked it from the flake to the top which was very pleasing. Done it in two halves now, albeit not on the same day. Hopefully be some additional improvement when I feel better. Need to work on specific undercut strength for move out of the rest, probably the crux for me. If anyone has any sneaky beta I'm all ears!

Nibile

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#14 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 12:19:27 pm
Power Club

Mon - Again low PE with a nice 30/30 x10 sets. Was tired from Saturday's session but completed the task. Then ab wheel and dumbbell complex combo. Tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - boxing bag, snatch pulls, overhead press. Injured my left wrist. D'oh!
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - light weights.
Sat - rest.
Sun - ab wheel and dumbbell complex x5 back to back.

tommytwotone

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#15 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 01:15:00 pm
If anyone has any sneaky beta I'm all ears!

As someone who's had a 3 week flu, just got better and then ended up in hospital with a second virus a couple of weeks later, lay off, rest and get better.

Consensus was I wasn't better from the first flu, ragged myself too much with work / parenting / climbing and promptly blew up a few weeks later.

M: nowt, took gym gear by didn't get a break
T: nowt
W: session with Tim at boiling Works at lunchtime, quick boulder afterwards, then back to Leeds to go to Will's talk in Leeds, very enjoyable, drank a couple too many beers.
T: nowt
F: nowt
S: nowt, cleaning and tidying
S: took kids to wall, they had a good time and I even got to have a bit of a potter

Frustrating week - life getting in the way of doing anything constructive through combination of having to spend evenings catching up with work, crap sleep as son isn't sleeping, sorting out new car too.

Having had good progress with the shoulder, last week it flared up big time and felt worse than before. Beginning to wonder what the hell it is.



webbo

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#16 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 01:37:52 pm
If anyone has any sneaky beta I'm all ears!



Having had good progress with the shoulder, last week it flared up big time and felt worse than before. Beginning to wonder what the hell it is.
Have you seen anyone about it. When I saw the physio with mine, he sent me straight for an ultrasound scan which showed what looked like a 21mm tear in the supraspinatus. However I have just had my 6 week post op review and according to the surgeon, the tear was much big, I had tears in 3 other tendons, bone spurs and a frozen shoulder.
Despite the above I was still able to climb with it, I was just restricted in certain move like cross through
If it keeps flaring up I would get it looked at.

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#17 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 02:21:51 pm
Not a doc or whatever - I've had one physio in Leeds, and then some time with Tim.


Seems to be very hit and miss so you may be right, just need to work out if/how I can get this sorted on my work medical cover so I don't need to wait. Now approaching 5 months injured and it's not got any better.

duncan

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#18 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 03:06:07 pm
Well done csl - wadded.

STG - Manage health. Get outside. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before. Something on the Marmolada this summer?
LTG - 5.13 at 60

M - Fingerboard pick-ups L+R
T - Shoulder exercises
W -
T -
F - Swanage with JP. Headed for Cattle Troughs. Sea-state a little too intense for Unknown Ledge, but climbed some pleasant HVSs and E1s at Flake Ledge with a hanging belay to avoid the splashes. Nothing else dry and JP was keen for Thor in Boulder Ruckle so abseiled and bouder-hopped into this. Archetypal one star Ruckle HVS: damp, a bit loose, but climbs through astonishing terrain for the grade. Negotiated usual Ruckle exit to encounter scores of the dreaded brown tail moth caterpillars. Spent considerable amount of time trying to remove these before topping out, unfortunately not completely successfully.
S - Bad caterpillar rash on arms, neck and back. Really nasty if you’ve not had this. Antihistamine helps a little at the cost of feeling (even more) tired and sleepy.
S - Dorset with Cyan. Drove down to Portland which was engulfed in mist. Headed for The Cuttings, along with 60+ others (I lost count after 54). Cyan got some good links on Hall of Mirrors. I failed on my warm-up and generally wasn’t feeling enthused. Bailed to Dancing Ledge which was sunny, breezy and quiet. Did 8 easy routes, not all in the best style, but enjoyable nonetheless.

Mixed week, still various health issues, not climbing at all well but it was a rare pleasure to get outside twice. I just love sea-cliffs. Sacked off the plan to go to Dolomites, just not enough time unless we had got really lucky with the weather. Replaced with 5 days in Pembroke which I’m looking forward to at least as much and should increase the odds of climbing some harder trad. this year. 

Plan: get well, get outside (but might avoid Swanage for a bit), keep doing some form of climbing.

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#19 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 05:16:01 pm
Missed a few weeks for various reasons...

STG - Get down to 80something kg, get outside regularly
MTG - Quality trad adventures, not bothered about grades
LTG - Reboot project 8a

Mon - Fairly lacklustre afternoon at Harrisons. Very little soloing confidence. Pull-ups / dips later on.
Tuesday - Bowles. Tried (again) and failed on Micks Wall Arete and Banana Hammock. More nervous soloing.
Wed
Thursday - Harrisons. Roasting. Tried some shunting. Went ok, although blew retro flash of Desparate Dan due to shoes getting hotter than the sun. Some better bouldering too.
Fri
Sat - Chimera. Hot. Gardening.
Sun - Gardening

Weight - 94-95kg. Not weighing in every day for the time being.

Finger / forearm niggles and work-related stress meant I decided to take a few weeks off. The former have recovered, the latter less so. But getting out on rock (particularly messing around on a top rope) has been good, and keen for it to continue. Struggling to make time for trad away days / weekends, and need to find some more committed partners anyway. Current plan is to continue enjoying the sandstone, and hopefully appreciate getting further afield when I have the chance to do so.

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#20 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 23, 2018, 05:19:51 pm
Bravo CSL and Coops - wadded...

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#21 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 24, 2018, 05:31:53 pm
Been skiving for a few weeks - poor psyche due to not having had a single session on rock in decent conditions yet this year... Easter break = no pass and in-laws staying with obligatory force feeding, cos god knows what comments there would be if I didn’t finish my meat and fifteen veg and sticky pudding  >:(

69.8kg

M- nul
T- Max hangs BM micros 17 sets with a bunch of +10kg on the 8s - not tried the 8s properly before but quite like them; bit painful but somehow feel more natural as a crimp - no little finger creep as some peeps get on the 10s/BM2k smalls..

DL - first session for a month but I’ll call that deloading as good strong session - 15 sets including a session best of 9 singles at 5 plates (220s) felt beau; no further patella tracking probs, back feels great = joy
W- nul
T- nul
F- nul
S- built a shed for beekeeping
S- half a dozen body weight sets on BM micros
  Stoke Awesome Walls 2hrs hot and heavy

Thassit

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#22 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 24, 2018, 07:19:32 pm
tried weighted pull-ups for the first time. Worked up to a 1RM of +45kg which I was fairly happy with, wasn't too hard so could see quick improvement if I put time into it.

Impressive number that, and something you therefore definitely don't need to work on to reach your 7C goal...

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#23 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 24, 2018, 08:56:30 pm
tried weighted pull-ups for the first time. Worked up to a 1RM of +45kg which I was fairly happy with, wasn't too hard so could see quick improvement if I put time into it.

Impressive number that, and something you therefore definitely don't need to work on to reach your 7C goal...
haha thanks, don’t you worry my training plan consists of a lot more fingerboarding than weighted pull-ups  :(

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#24 Re: UKB Power Club 425 16-22 April
April 25, 2018, 05:59:35 pm
Non climbing week for me - been a few now, finger was getting a bit bad.

(ran 21 km on Sunday before epic - got lost, took crap shortcuts, wading burns and through gorse.)

M- nowt. Missus away running boston marathon and knackered from da before
T - as above
W - lunch run, 8 km felt OK.
T - yoga lunch, first in at least a month. tough
F - easy 5 k leg stretcher
S - walk with kids
S - Run Balmoral 15 mile trail race. Weather cooler than on Sunday when loads of folk did the 10k.  headwind on the way out in the trees, tail wind on the way back over the tops. Cloud, sunny spells occasional light shower. Felt OK most of the way, only felt the kick in the arse final climb went on a bit, even had to walk one of the bumps before a twisting steep dusty trail to the end where i really let go and loved it. Managed 2:09, better than primary aim of 2:15, but realised that 2:00 was out of reach fairly esrly on, so didn't destroy myself. Recommend the route if anyone is in the area and fancies a long run,you can access the route from Strava and not start from the castle, but it would be a nice halfway stop for a drink and some cake. great scenery, views of Lochnagar, into Deeside and old Caledonian Pine forest. Do-able on a MTB too with one or two short pushes.

 

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