[shark]

11.1-4 (Average 156.9 same as last week )

M.

T. Snatched a rubbish half hour on the board. Then off to London

W.

T,

F. Malham Up with Mina, Zips and Steve but climbed with Charlotte when there. Miserable weather - damp and chilly. Lot of seepage. Oak wet. Enjoyed burling on the Bat route bulge and made progress. Refined sequence on Seventh Aardvark though slipped off wet holds three times.

S.  Anston with Ben so he could try Soul Crusher. Unsurprisingly it was wet. Did our best in circumstance. Made some progress doing the half move I struggled on ie holding the starting poor undercut and slot and getting out to the rail without swinging off. Involves a rapid (for me) move to a small intermediate flake to reduce the swing – clip below. Keen to give it a proper go when its dry and Im fresh 

S.

Laid off doing anything hard early in week as wanted to get over bug (are you paying attention Paul). Enjoying the burly bulge of Bat route and if the Oak is wet tomorrow I might be brave and check out the top section too though it seems presumptuous. Alcohol consumption on the up – got hammered weds and sat night. Ferrandiere at £4.99 from Aldi is great value.

[Murph]

Good one shark. Soulcrusher looks sweet. Stick with it!

M-5k easy run, quick pre storm blast at plantation
T-hour of (easy) power at works, 40kg fingerboard routine
W-20k cycle commute

T-9k easy run, works session bad and good. Whacked my toe hard into the wall while falling off something so abandoned anything involving shoes. Retreated to the fingerboard, did a slightly extended routine involving:
3x10s hangs of bottom 1k rail with +40kgs
3x10s hangs of small 1k holds with +40kgs
Not bad, then encouraged by what others were doing I tried a one arm hang on the middle bottom slot of the 2k. Managed maybe 5-7s with the right and a bit less with the left. That’s without training that specifically. I probably held it wrong so it doesn’t count but still, not too shabby.

F-

S-superb day. Did a reasonably hard 9k run in the sun and had a great family bouldering session at a packed plantation. Ticked Captain Hook which is my second ever grit 7B and my first new 7B since being back at work. Spring has finally arrived! Played in plantation with kids and came across Brass Monkeys. What a great looking bit of rock.



S-RHS family session. Finally plucked up the courage to tick Spine Right Hand, 4+. I know, I know, but that drop is quite scary.
Kettlebells and core.

64.5kgs not bad at all.

[csl]

Well done on Captain Hook murph

This week

2 greens - close on two
find some new moonboard projects - haven't climbed on it since it was reset

April goals

- 5 Greens at the Arch - 1/5
- Benchmark 7B on the moonboard
- Weight < 72kg

this year

- 7C
- hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: 72.7kg -> 72.8kg

Wednesday

Arch B1
Most of the new slab set

Thursday

Arch B1

Lots of repeats of whites/reds and a white on the main slab
30 mins stretching

Sunday

Biscuit

Lots of reds and whites, close on a couple of greens.
30 mins stretching

coming week

Try a 7C in the peak, do a couple of 7's
a 7B in Wales on the weekend
a proper session on one of my "lifetime list"

[shark]

S-superb day. Did a reasonably hard 9k run in the sun and had a great family bouldering session at a packed plantation. Ticked Captain Hook which is my second ever grit 7B and my first new 7B since being back at work.

Nice one. 

[B0405413]

Enjoyed burling on the Bat route bulge and made progress.

How hard is the bulge of bat route? I've heard various accounts from font 7B to font 7C+

[Murph]

Thanks chaps! It’s a great problem I reckon - seems unlikely until it goes.

[shark]

Enjoyed burling on the Bat route bulge and made progress.

How hard is the bulge of bat route? I've heard various accounts from font 7B to font 7C+

Looks much easier for the very tall but seems about stout 7B to me from the undercuts.

[Coops_13]

Good work Murph on those sweaty slopers in the sun!

STG: Maybe get sub-80kg for Font (first time in 5 years)
MTG: 7C

M: Core work, destroyed lower back muscles with the ab wheel
T: Arch. Fingerboard then moonboard. Shouldn't have gone so hard on the MB after the fingerboard session as tweaked a pulley. Difficult to know how much my fingers have left in them after an f-board session
W: Westway. Met up with mate I hadn't seen for ages and did routes. Got pumped silly, max onsight grade currently 6b 
T:
F:
S: Arch. Working through the comp wall problems which was fun. Finger felt good. Tried 1-4-7 again and got it on both arms for the first time for a while! Could be the cut, could be this campus board being easier?!?
S: Some light stretching

[Nibile]

Boring title, Shark.

Power Club

Mon - back on the BM after ages! Various regular hangs, with focus on front and mid2 on small rung, index, middle and ring monos, front and mid2 of shallow pockets and a few front2 full crimp on small rung. Finished with a couple of brief 45 hangs. Then low PE with a nice 30/30 x10 sets. Was surprised, had never tried going for 10.
Tue - rest.
Wed - power cleans 5-3-1 third week of fifth cycle. 5 reps at 95% (75 kg). This is it.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - cleans, warm up then 80% x6x5; 75% x6. In between sets, one arm hangs on 1,5 cm. Finished with a few sets of front2 and mid2 hangs on 9 mm edge. So nice, beautiful session, training in a relaxed fashion while talking with my girlfriend who was sitting just outside the garage in the sun with a book. A real treat after six months of fanatic isolation and full pressure sessions. Did a big tonnage.

Hard week, lots of work, lack of sleep due to refurbishment works in the apartment below mine, feeling generally tired and out of sync. Despite this, oh the joys of hard fingerboarding! Found out that obviously I've lost a lot on monos, especially ring monos, not training them for months now. Can probably get back quite soon, but pain management is crucial. Front2 crimps feel nice but they immediately feel tweaky and awaken my fingers pain: let's stay away from them, unless for testing only. Frictionlabs Unicorn dust is the dog's bollocks.
Then the PE felt great. Never pushed myself for ten sets of 30/30 before but will start doing so now. A few shirts already don't fit anymore at the forearms.
Then, the 5-3-1. Mixed feelings, but decided to call it quits. First of all, I feel that I'm more or less at the limit of what I can do in total safety. With higher loads I've started missing the odd final rep and it's not nice, especially because I can't drop the bar to the ground. Then, it's too OCD, even for myself. Finally, it requires too much planning and preparation and it's a session in which I can't fit anything else unless I have plenty of time, which I have not. And if I do fit something in, like deadhangs, it takes my mind off from the cleans, which is not good at all at near max loads. So, instead of keeping up with it, I'll use the latest training max (80 kg) as a reference, and I'll simply start doing the cleans when I feel like, at various percentages, depending on how I feel, but with no structured plan.

[tomtom]

Nice one Murph.
Great back on the BM Nibs.
Shark. Embrace the greyness.

Well folks - looks like the turtle is well and truly rustling in his box - building up a lettuce appetite and about to burst free, slowly blink his sleep encrusted eyes, burp and declare the Lime well and truly called.

Except it was fucking shit at rubicon when I went on sunday... :D

On thursday, finally, my month of travel was over. 8 budget air flights (5 easyjet, 1 ryanair and 2 jet2.com) done and dusted. Fieldtrips and family holidays endured - meaning I could get back to training, climbing and being cynical.     

Fr: A DAY PASS! shit weather. Depot. decent session.

Sa: A GLORIOUS DAY!! felt tired - saved my beans for BIG SUNDAY,

Su: Hmph. Weather iffy, felt like I had a big hangover (no drink)... went to Rubicon - soaked. Considered my options and went to Gardoms N. Nice little session - and stupidly re-acquainted myself with SOTG... Lay on my mat a few times and groaned in head hurty me hungovery poor me type movements and went home.

Managed not to put on much weight in the last month (2lbs) which is some acheivement given the general crap you eat when travelling etc...

[andy_e]

Managed not to put on much weight in the last month (2lbs) which is some acheivement given the general crap you eat when travelling etc...

This deserves a wad point. I've definitely developed some paunch over the Easter field trip/conference season.

[duncan]

Thanks Simon,

STG - Manage aches, pains and sniffles. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before. Something on the Marmolada this summer (this plan seems to be slipping...)
LTG - 5.13 at 60

M - Shoulder strength work
T - Shoulder strength work
W - Westway bouldering. Warmed-ing slowly and carefully. Felt left shoulder (the one that dislocated) pop. Stopped immediately.
T - Sore shoulders
F - Fingerboard (pick-ups): 17mm edge x 35kg, each hand. Shoulder strength work.
S - Glorious day in London, felt like Pan had finally awoken. Hanami in Kew Gardens (a bit like bouldering: very conditions-dependent; can be crowded and noisy; bring mats, lanterns, and hand-warmers). Shoulder strength work. 
S - Shoulder strength work

Still unwell this week. Felt like I dodged a bullet on Wednesday. Perhaps I shouldn’t be climbing at all but I usually feel better doing a little more than nothing. Weight

Plan: take a few days off work and see how it goes health-wise this week. Do something to stress the fingers a little at some point. Try not to comfort-eat.

[highrepute]

S-superb day. Did a reasonably hard 9k run in the sun and had a great family bouldering session at a packed plantation. Ticked Captain Hook which is my second ever grit 7B and my first new 7B since being back at work.

Nice one. 

Nice one. Must have been a bit greasey in the heat on those slopers. The finger boarding paying off.

[tommytwotone]

Goal - Font 7anything outdoors


So after almost continual illness and injury for 2018 I started to get back into it.


M - nowt
T - gym on lunch, 500m row then 100 reps of shoulder press, bicep curl, goblet squat and TRX Is
W - Depot Leeds evening, mainly pottering / active rest-ing on easy V3 max. Nice session, good to be moving.
T -nowt
F - nowt, picked up new (to me) car
S - nowt, found out car was pissing petrol all over the place, dropped it back at garage for them to sort
S - nowt

[spidermonkey09]

This seems to be good Monday morning procrastination fodder, and it is limestone season now...

Short term: Zoolook
Medium term: Get fit for Ceuse in July (Privilege du Serpent) and do the hard yards on Supercool
Long term: Supercool

M - rest

T - Depot. Good endurance session on the circuit board.Did the 7b, worked the 7c. Lots of mileage on the easier ones. Pumped as sin at the end. Warmed down with 1 min on, 1 min off aerocap.

W - Rest. Finger a bit stiff after the session the day before.

T - Depot. Brilliant session on the 30 board. Tried to come up with a load of problems on undercuts and was pleasantly surprised at how they felt. Need to be harder- bollocks. Completely ruined myself Foot on campusing and then warmed down with the aerocap again.

F - Rest.

S - Malham. Psyched to see the sun. First session back on Zoolook after the winter. Still felt hard but feels eminently doable now. Did the traverse at the top which I hadn't managed before, remembered all the beta and linked it from the ground to the rest, which is wet. Need it to be dry to get a reasonable amount back. Hope the sun this week will help in this regard. Time to start pushing the high point up I think, although am slightly worried the house martins will move in before I get it done...

S - knackered and a bit hungover. Rest. Finger felt ok considering the crimping the day before.

This week: same training. Back to Malham at the weekend.

[Murph]

James - Friction was Great! I’m not much of a judge though but two attempts on the day was all it took.
Coops - great work on 147!
Nibs - good to hear the FB love is back. That’s where it’s really at.
TT - good work on the 2lbs! I’ll be sure to share any beta about conditions. The lime was surprisingly wet a week back too. Hope it dries out before my mojo!

[measles23]

Fuck yeah Lycra’s back

Been waiting for this moment for sooooo long....

strong look

[Murph]

Thanks Measles, appreciate it. Changed the title just for you.