[tomtom]

Hei!

Arrived back from Tenerife about midnight on Friday night. Saturday all day with the family/boy

Su: Managed to sneak out to Wilton 1. R-Man many moons ago suggested I try a few problems around the prow - so had a great couple of hours. Did 7 or 8 problems I've never done before up to 7A+ including the 7A shown below. Not too shabby considering the only climbing related activity I've done in the last 9 days had been filing down my tips...

[jwi]

“Voima klubi”, mabye?

[shark]

 11.3-5 (Average 158.2 up 0.5lb on last week )

M..

T. Drove the bus with Paul, Steve Mac, Haydn, Maddy and Mina on board. Didn't expect the Oak to be dry but it was. Mainly. Sunny to begin with then cold. On warm up go I effectively did horn to top but had to dig deep. Goes thereafter were disappointing and I finished with both skin and confidence trashed. Could I have passed the cusp?

W. Physio with Lou. Mainly working on left shoulder. Yelped a lot. She called me a wimp and worse. I called her something unmentionable. Threw down cash at end and told her I wanted out of this abusive relationship and her out of my life. I’ll probably go back next week

T.

F. Up with Paul. Mina and Haydn went seperately. Argued with Paul about participation and the role of the BMC for most of the journey. Anxious as to how it would go after tuesdays poor session. Air temp warmer but much colder with wind chill and a struggle to keep warm enough. Conditions good but an effort to stay warm Warm up Cons x1 then x2 Go1 Warm up go was more caustious this time and avoided doing throw move at Paul’s suggestion Go 2 3 goes from second bolt third go the best but got overexcited and fumbled horn. Went for a walk round top of cove with dog Go 3 Nicely warm went from second bolt to midway across top traverse ;-) Another walk to top of cove Go 4 Similar link but not quite as far on top traverse Go 5 Throw to same point. Back on track!

S. 

S.
Booked to go up to Malham tomorrow and Bank holiday Monday.Obsessing about the usual range of things that will help – warm up on the day, rest between goes, how to warm up for burns, weight, mental attitude, amount of interday rest, skin management, conditions, weather forecast. Few new things added to the mix with stretching, range of movement, shoulder activation.   

[Coops_13]

STG: Continue cut
MTG: 7C

M: Yoga
T: Arch. Fingerboard then tried problems, fingers felt tweaky so switched to moonboard where they felt fine?!? Did 8 problems, 2 7A, 4 7A+, 1 7A benchmark (BM), 1 7A+ BM
W: Yoga
T: Arch. Really good moonboard session 5 6B+, 1 6C BM, 4 7A, 2 7B, 1 7A BM, 1 7A+ BM, 1 7B BM
F:
S:
S: Day trip to Cratcliffe/Rowtor Rocks. Repeatedly fell off the top of T crack 7B, got up to a hand in each pocket, slapping top arete  Knackered so went to Rowtor Rocks. Did Yoghurt Hypnotist 7B fairly quickly and then battled my way up Short Sean's Proper Reachy Roof 7A+ - way harder than the non-eliminate version

I've been on a diet/cut for the past two weeks and I'm feeling good for it. Restricting down to 2400 calories a day with a high protein Macro balance, planning to lose 0.5kg a week to get from 83.8kg (start) down to roughly 78kg. Think my metabolism is a bit faster than the calculator accounted for so I'm down to 81.8kg in two weeks

[Dexter]

Getting back on the power club bandwagon

STG:- get stronger and more flexible, do some cool stuff in font next month
MTG:- do 8B (probably keen roof or Louis Armstrong) and 8b (tuppence)
LTG:- Planche


M:- Rest day
T:- Cave bouldering session, followed by core and planche stuff
W:- Rest day
T:- Chilled out climbing session.
F:- Easy session doing some circuits followed by core, planche training and stretches
S:- Went to Oakwood for the first time, pretty cool place, managed a couple of their V8+ circuit problems (video of one here https://www.instagram.com/p/Bgtyy7VBXon/?taken-by=dexterclimbs). Finished up with some deadlift and benchpress. Did 1 rep 2x bw deadlift and 1x bw bench so pretty happy
S:- 5km run core, planche stuff and stretches

Pretty tiring but successful week

[Murph]

Morning all.

M-nowt injured knee when fall running the day before so omitted normal kettlebell routine. Also, because of inherent laziness, didn’t do core work or fingerboard either.
T-easy works power hour. Fingerboard half-arsed max hangs. Fretting about my weak crimp I didn’t even manage the standard 40kgs. Oh well.
W-still on bus to work cos of knee. Went for a walk. Still no kettlebells/superabs. A few life factors getting in the way of stuff.
T-back on the bike. Back on the murples and motherboard. Didn’t get any murples actually done but think I was practicing my try hard. Got to the top of the MB via a different route. Will spend more time on MB next week.
F-early morning pass so went to higgar. Eventually remembered how to do sick 6A - it’s not obvious! But the start hold was a bit damp on piss and I found the high foot to be much higher than I remembered. Plantation was a bit friendlier and drier. Lapped Zippy’s 7B a few times which i can see being a regular thing like trackside is. I am a creature of habit. My friend Huw turned up and said “get on something you’ve not done before!” So I got on the Green and bashed my head against the wall not really sure why it wasn’t going. I think I know what it is now - something to do with not wearing smearing shoes. Then got on Captain Hook 7B. Didn’t get it done but think it should go next time out. Great problem. Surprising really given its a proper arse dragging traverse.
S-10k run felt fine. Kettlebells and superabs routine. Tight hamstrings after.
S-10k run felt fine again. Omitted the kettlebells tho cos of stiffness. All sorts of muscle aches from climbing on actual rocks. 

64.5->65.5kgs. Slacked off a bit this week. Will dial it back in now.

Was great to get on the grit again and try something new. I should make this something I try to do more than three or four times a year!

[highrepute]

Back on track!

This year?!

[Coops_13]

1x bw bench so pretty happy

50 kg bench is impressive! 

[shark]

Back on track!

This year?!

 

Cautiously optimistic. I'm a tad stronger and (self-induced) work pressures are much less this season. Weight not too bad. Not sure about PE/Endurance level. Maybe not as hyped up as normal but that might not be a bad thing.   

[Will Hunt]

Can we not endure this "2nd bolt to top" nonsense that we've had to go through in previous campaigns? If you're in shape to do it then you need to actually give yourself the opportunity to climb it.

[T_B]

M - Autobelays - 3 x 5, 2 x 6a, 3 x 6b+, 3 x 6c, 4 x 6c+
T - Lunch Campus - still not quite able to do 1-4-7, but touching rung on both arms / PM 2 hrs on Furnace board - good session.
W -
T - Pm Short sess on homeboard but no core/beans after a hard lunchtime run
F -
S - Homeboard 1.5hrs, good session. Felt very close to being able to do replica Keen Roof crux, but worried about tearing the left undercut off!
S - 1.5hrs last of the light sess at Burb West. Nice to be out after a weekend of challenging parenting. Repeated a bunch of problems including WSS, got high on Famous Grouse but couldn't get feet up.

Feeling good. Definitely stronger on undercuts than I am normally. Quite psyched.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1, fifth week of fourth cycle. A well deserved deload week. Snatch pulls, pull ups.
Thu - climbing class. Set and climbed one problem.
Fri - ab wheel and metcon complex 6 sets, 1' rests brutal.
Sat - "rest": 200 kms of turns!
Sun - should have done weights after a quick ride, but got lost and ended up with another 160 kms of turns...

Easy week, felt like some well deserved rest.

[shark]

Can we not endure this "2nd bolt to top" nonsense that we've had to go through in previous campaigns? If you're in shape to do it then you need to actually give yourself the opportunity to climb it.

Yeah - I've decided not to make this comfort tick a stage goal this time. I'm pretty sure that based on Fridays performance that 2nd bolt to top would be possible over the next couple of sessions. Goal today is to see if I can at least touch the horn going from the ground but I suspect it will be too warm. If I hold or go past it that would be really encouraging.

[tomtom]

Yesterday, whilst lazing on my mat in the early spring sunshine under the sunny side of the Prow at Wilton, sipping a coffee and musing on life - some scrote and his pal leaned over the railings at the top and shouted "get up it you lazy c*nt".

I ignored them, but Shark - if you like, I can track them down and provide them with a bus fare to Malham to give you such powerful words of encouragement?

[nai]

M - 20 minutes of limit bouldering then to Mini works for LI AeroCap, 3x16mins

T - nowt

W - Stanage with Plattsy, did Fear and Loathing, it's all there but still felt scary above the patform and four pads.  Props to the builder, great job.
Also did Patiently Waiting, the newish 7A around the back,  which is pretty decent and probably easier for the short. Good day out.

Eve - HI AeroCap, felt hard work.

Th - 30 minutes of hips mobility after a 5 hour journey in an economical car.

Fr -
2 hours of housework then managed to warm up in a matter of moments. Tried some board projects to really get firing then headed to Mother Cap Quarry to try PNC. Last time I tried this I could do moves 1&2 or 3&4 but doing 3 after 1&2 felt unlikely. Today I was doing 1,2,3 and setting for 4 most attempts, eventually managing to stick it with a hopeful slap.

AnCap - great session - failed set 2 last move of rep 4; set 3 -2 moves, rep 3; -3 moves rep 4. Perfect intensity I reckon.

S - Rest. Well, 4 hours of garden maintenance shizzle and car washing so not exactly rest rest, but no climbing. 30 minutes hips and shoulders in the evening.

S - limit bouldering, 2x15 minute blocks working one problem and trying to complete another.  Got a good link on the former from 3 moves in; but the latter has a really frustrating deadpoint right off a poor foothold right at the limit of my reach. Really have to try to suck my hips in as close as possible and maintain tension through the move but once you let go and the foot blows it's game over. I could use an alternative of course but that's no longer the point.

Max hangs - good session - improving on all grips except 4f 1/2 crimp, for some reason I can hang more on F3 but am of course stronger using all 4 when actually climbing. Spent quite a while trying to work out what I'm doing differently without success.

Decent week, reckon I'm in my best bouldering form for a few years, hopefully it'll translate onto routes, well psyched to get out now.

Coming week looks challenging with Easter encroaching into it and the weather not looking great then hopefully off on holiday somewhere with some boulders.

[csl]

This week

- Do 1 of my moonboard projects - Naaa
- Dedicate some time to stretching! - the TV show was Made in Chelsea for anyone wondering... Masterchef was so crap it got turned off in 5 minutes, so no meaningful stretching time.

March

- 4 days out - 3/4
- 4 Greens at the Arch - 5/4
- stretching at least 2x a week - better!

this year

7C
hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: ~ 72.9kg
Injuries: bad back again, need to see a physio

Monday

Arch

Good session, did the entire new set apart from a white V5-7

45 mins stretching

Tuesday

25 mins stretching

Wednesday

Arch

Did a few things from the new set and then moonboard.

Did most of Coca & Mignotte 7B, should have finished it off but couldn't link after start.
Overlapping halves on To Warmer Waters 7B, should go.

Friday

Arch, friendly comp

didn't do particularly well, a couple of hardish ones but most felt a bit beyond me.

coming week

- book to see a physio about my back
- do 1 of my Moonboard projects

[SA Chris]

Back on the wagon...

STG - Local projects
MTG - Maybe some others in Scotland this spring

M - Light boulder session, but mid on other things. Pack. Drive to Clova
T - Early start, ski kit on and hike to bottom of Kilbo Path. Skin up part of Kilbo, but hard an icey and heavy going with footprints. Skis off and frontpoint up ice slope to ridge (crampons would probably have been good. Skin round to top of Dreish, another ski munro tick. Dropped into corrie on great scottish powder. geared up in sun and cramponed out. Crossed over to top of A Gully, but it look like it had gathered no snow though. Skinned back and dropped down ridge into Corrie Fee on great snow, and skiied along track to within a mile or so walk of the car park where it was almost spring like.  Amazing day. Loved to have stayed out, but had to get kids.
W - nowt knackered
T - nowt knackered. Physio for shoulder, diagnosis tweaked spinatus, minor, get in! 
F - beer
S - half hour in pool, 1km, 11 km run
S - Walk with kids.

[duncan]

... Argued with Paul about participation and the role of the BMC for most of the journey.

... Back on track!

Obsessing about the usual range of things that will help – warm up on the day, rest between goes, how to warm up for burns, weight, mental attitude, amount of interday rest, skin management, conditions, weather forecast. Few new things added to the mix with stretching, range of movement, shoulder activation.   

Make sure you have a good argument on the drive up.

STG - Manage aches and pains. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly. E3 at Pembroke next weekend. V4 by end March 
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long free route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before.
LTG - tbc

M - Stretches
T -
W - Shoulder strength, stretches
T -
F - Westway routes aerocap x10 mins x 3 sets
S - Shoulder strength, stretches.
S - Westway bouldering to ~V3 with the lad. Shoulder strength work.

Post holiday blues, particularly tense few days at work, right shoulder (the old war-wound, not the dislocated one) tweaky, so had a gentle week.

Plan: rehab. shoulder, perhaps some aerocap/aka easy trad. Going to Pembroke over the Easter weekend, my first trad. outing since High Tor last August. Hut booked, team flying in to Bristol, all keen as mustard, weather forecast not great...

[r-man]

Hei!

Arrived back from Tenerife about midnight on Friday night. Saturday all day with the family/boy

Su: Managed to sneak out to Wilton 1. R-Man many moons ago suggested I try a few problems around the prow - so had a great couple of hours. Did 7 or 8 problems I've never done before up to 7A+ including the 7A shown below. Not too shabby considering the only climbing related activity I've done in the last 9 days had been filing down my tips...

Nice one Tom. It's a fun little circuit. The direct finish to flywalk is worth doing too - a big move up and left from the letterbox instead of going right.

[tomtom]

Nice one Tom. It's a fun little circuit. The direct finish to flywalk is worth doing too - a big move up and left from the letterbox instead of going right.

Ah it has been done then.. I was eyeing that up as a new variant! A bit harder rocking up on the lf?

I also have a new variant (of sorts). Yoga for tall climbers. 6C I could reach the finishing hold without having to bring my foot up to waist level (was still fun but not as you're 'meant' to do it...).

I will of course take 7A+ for the tick :D

[r-man]

Yeah, adds a tricky move. Might just about scrape in at 7A+, or maybe not. Feels like a better finish though.

I also have a new variant (of sorts). Yoga for tall climbers. 6C I could reach the finishing hold without having to bring my foot up to waist level (was still fun but not as you're 'meant' to do it...).

I will of course take 7A+ for the tick :D

Hah. No wonder the scrotes were insulting you.

[tomtom]

Hah. No wonder the scrotes were insulting you.

They surely had me mistaken for Shark?