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Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study (Read 4324 times)

Ian T

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Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 24, 2018, 02:46:15 pm
Here's a new blog post from Eva Lopez on her fingerboard study.

http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 24, 2018, 04:39:28 pm
I'm absolutely stunned that anybody could use an Eva Lopez fingerboard for 8 minutes, let alone 8 weeks. Were they given blood plasma after every session to stay topped up?

tomtom

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#2 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 24, 2018, 07:32:20 pm
Summarised here: for those not wanting to read the article.

moose

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#3 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 24, 2018, 07:42:57 pm
The recommended routine on that summary is similar to the one I use when in a fingerboarding phase (usually mid-routes season, to top up the effects of my winter bouldering) - alternating months of max hangs on an 18mm edge and on a smaller edge (12 to 6mm - with a corresponding amount of added weight).  I am still shit though.

abarro81

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#4 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 24, 2018, 07:47:55 pm
Here's my summary of the study:
- Take group A, make group A do a strength exercise very similar to your strength testing protocol
- Take group B, make them do what's almost an aerobic power exercise
- Realise that the fact that group A did better on the strength testing protocol than group B is of no use to anyone, anywhere, designing a training plan. Except this part seems to have been forgotten.

The above is perhaps a little harsh... but only a little.


jwi

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#5 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 24, 2018, 08:07:43 pm
I have to agree with abarro81. No one is doing repeaters to increase their strength, are they? I'd be (somewhat) interested to see a comparison of periodised strength training on the fingerboard (say a preplanned mix of 20s, 10s, and 5s hang) with non periodised strength over 8 weeks, or even better 16 weeks.

As a practitioner I'd be more interested also if the outcome was measured on climbing movements rather than on the training apparatus. There are many papers trying to assess the relative importance of different strength-training protocols on e.g. running performance. I find such work très cool and would like to see some efforts towards this in the scientific climbing-training literature.

abarro81

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#6 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 24, 2018, 08:15:37 pm
I actually do do some repeaters to get stronger, but with significantly longer rests than 1 minute between repeater sets!

Could have been interesting doing it with longer rests between sets, and like you say, with an assessment protocol that was better - ideally climbing orientated but I guess that might be hard. At least you could do maybe 8-16 weeks of the training protocols, then have everyone do 2 weeks of the strength testing protocol to get them used to it, then do the testing, so that there's less of the 'being used to the exercise' involved in how you perform on the testing.

jwi

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#7 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 24, 2018, 08:27:26 pm
I actually do do some repeaters to get stronger, but with significantly longer rests than 1 minute between repeater sets!

Agree on longer than 1 min rest of course, but if we by strength mean MVC (which is what we usually mean by strength, no?) TUL at almost a minut seems excessive (expect as base maybe).

There are plenty of studies where advanced/elit runners are put through different type of leg strength exercise protocols that are later evaluated by outcome on changes in running time, ground force, etc. It should not be impossible to design something similar for bouldering.

StillTryingForTheTop

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#8 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 26, 2018, 09:39:39 am
Recently I have been combining both, but in the same session, what are people's thoughts on that?

Basically I warm up, then do 6 sets of a single rep on the smallest edge of the BM1000 (added weight so I fail between 6-10 seconds, if I make 5-6 reps all at 10 seconds, i increase the weight by 0.5kg), then I do 6 sets of repeaters (7 reps of 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off on medium (bottom outside) edge), depending on how rested I am from the rest of my climbing I normally complete between 4 and 6 of the sets.

3 minute rest between the max hangs, and 2 minute rest between the repeaters

SA Chris

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#9 Re: Eva Lopez Fingerboard Study
March 26, 2018, 01:51:30 pm
Here's my summary of the study:
- Take group A, make group A do a strength exercise very similar to your strength testing protocol
- Take group B, make them do what's almost an aerobic power exercise
- Realise that the fact that group A did better on the strength testing protocol than group B is of no use to anyone, anywhere, designing a training plan. Except this part seems to have been forgotten.

The above is perhaps a little harsh... but only a little.

Confirmation Bias innit? Slackline?

 

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