[gme]

Couldn’t agree with Alex more. Looking at your post 90% of your week is spent doing what should be supplementary stuff. From what I can see you only climbed a few blacks and a session on the MB which isn’t that much different to campusing.
Seems all the wrong way round.

[highrepute]

TIL this week from Highrepute - get up the MB seemingly by bucketloads of skill and also, I suspect, with a little bit of magic or something.

It's just practise. I've loved climbing on boards since my conversion in 2010 at the Mitford Road board. I pretty much climb on a board every single indoor session I have.

Also, you do yourself an injustice. You looked good on the MB. It's an especially hard board and takes a few sessions to develop the technique to climb it.

Couldn’t agree with Alex more. Looking at your post 90% of your week is spent doing what should be supplementary stuff. From what I can see you only climbed a few blacks and a session on the MB which isn’t that much different to campusing.
Seems all the wrong way round.

I also agree. Although, I suspect you enjoy the quantifiable nature of dead-hanging. Whereas, GainZ from pure climbing are much harder to quantify and can seemingly shift like sand from one month to the next - more so for grit than lime. I'd say work your weaknesses more but don't give up on the things that you enjoy/keep-you-motivated completely.

[measles23]

Nibs - love that you’ve abandoned numbers for percentages - kinda like when Sharma gave up grading stuff; it’s all about the experience man! You using RPE?
Apnoea phase = wtf
Also out of curiosity with your snatches you don’t lower bar to the ground between reps; what’s the knowledge on that?

Murph = an 8B climbing body trapped with the mind of a 7B climber but what’s new


T - DL 13 sets: 3BW now officially part of my warmup; forgot my cue to get head up quickly so dropped first 2 heavy sets leaning too far forward, manned up to pull a PB equalling 235 off 1” block  - gonna take 8 days off then go for PB off the floor..

Th - Max hangs BM micros (10mm) steady bunch of sets of +20x5s

Thassit

[Murph]

Alex, Gav, James

Thanks very much all for your feedback. Agree 100% that I'd be a lot further on in my life's goal if I was able to prioritise more climbing. I appreciate this is power club, not excuse club, but between a full time job and loads o' childcare (with nary an inlaw in sight) I really don't know where I could get more time to climb from. The kettlebells/superabs stuff is literally a 20 minute routine that I normally squeeze in between getting home / kids down at 8pm and eating dinner before making packed lunches and getting enough sleep to not be in too much of a deficit come wakey wakey time at 6:something the next morning.

Running, kettlebells, heavy hangs with bad form, core work, it's all bullshit. Oh well keep trying.
F-kettlebells & superabs

 

When you put it like that it looks pretty stupid. What I don't mention was 7am-7pm was childcare. I really have no idea how I could get a decent board session in with a 2 year old and 4 year old running around. Mrs gets back at 7 and then there's a bedtime routine - it's not like I can just give her a fistbump as I walk out the door when she comes home from work.

I'd say work your weaknesses more but don't give up on the things that you enjoy/keep-you-motivated completely.

James - yep, I think you get what's going on in my head, it's a case of not letting perfect be the enemy of good. I know full well that kettlebells isn't the best thing to do, but I reckon it does something and I've not got injured in the shoulder area for a while now possibly because of that. The abs stuff is simply that Mason tests your core strength when he assesses you and hollow bodies are, apparently, one of the essential gymnastic positions so I just crack out a 5 minute session while my dinner is in the microwave. Supermen are a piece of piss in comparison but it can't hurt to do a couple of them too.

Two good board sessions a week would probably be a lot better than one, I get all that. And if only I could get outside regularly for a decent session that's longer than a warm up. But climbing simply isn't the priority. Much as I would like it to be, it's probably only third on the list. I should go part time or something and downsize. But for why. If I ever get up AT I'm fairly confident I will give up bouldering and just enjoy my golden years.

Murph = an 8B climbing body trapped with the mind of a 7B climber but what’s new

Thanks Matt, talk about untapped something or other. Good work on your 3BW warm ups 

[abarro81]

Yeah, if it's all the time you got it's all the time you got and there's not much you can easily change about that!

[erm, sam]

Things do get a lot easier as the kids get bigger, so keep the faith, it won' t always be like this (I know you are not complaining, but it is obviously challenging at times). I can now do a fingerboard session when the kids are up in the evenings as they just get on with their stuff, and I can have a longer session at the weekend guilt free because they are mostly less stressfull to manage..

[tomtom]

Isn't Masterchef on every night? In fact, isn't it just on ALL THE FUCKING TIME?

It certainly feels like it. I have such issues with that Greg guy (so does my other half, she just finds some imperceptible entertainment value in the rest of the show that makes it worth putting up with him) but I won't pull Power Club further off course by venting them.

Apparently fat bloke and sarky wanker don't socialise/talk at all outside of the studio. I'd NEARLY prefer to watch a box set of Dawsons Creek than any of the Master Chef franchise. But not quite...

[tomtom]

Double post...

Week before
M: Wall
W: Somewhere -
F: Somewhere else
Su: Outside again I think (its been a long couple of weeks)
M: Travel to Berlin
W: Back from Berlin - off to Brownstones for an hour or so...
Fr: Off to Tenerife for a week (Work).

Training/climbing all turns to shit until late April, with 3 days Berlin > 2 days home  > 8 days Tenerife > 6 days home > 7 days Morocco > 2 days home > 5 days Vienna. No opportunity to train or climb whilst away....

[Murph]

Nai - just seem. Must have been there about the same time as you. Would have said hello!

Erm Sam - thanks man. Yeah it’s just a difficult patch. Absolutely not complaining though (even if it might sound like it...)

[Nibile]

Guys, especially Murph and Nai: thank you for your words, I really appreciate!

[Nibile]

Measles, I'll reply in a while!

[Nibile]

Nibs - love that you’ve abandoned numbers for percentages - kinda like when Sharma gave up grading stuff; it’s all about the experience man! You using RPE?
Apnoea phase = wtf
Also out of curiosity with your snatches you don’t lower bar to the ground between reps; what’s the knowledge on that?

Here I am.
I'm using precentages because I'm using the 5-3-1 program, that is built around percentages. In my previous Power Club entries I've used kilos, but just because I record each session with kilos for percentage: I've always written the kilos and reps for my last set. Basically, of the three load sessions of the program, the last set of each session will always be at: 85%, 90%, 95% of the current cycle training max. AMRAP. So I keep track of the kilos and reps for each percentage, so that I can make comparisons cycle after cycle, if I want to. After the deload session, I start another cycle with a new training max, upon which I calculate each session's percentages. So, no RPE, but percentages.
Then, the apnea. I don't exactly understand what you mean by WTF, but for each rep I breathe in and hold my breath from before starting to hip hinge down, to when I lower the bar from my shoulders to my hips. It's not so long, but it's hard, and even harder rep after rep to catch your breath.
Then, cleaning and snatching from hang instead of from the ground. There are a few reasons, the first one being the technique required to go from the ground. Clearing the knees and then accelerating the hinge up in a continuous motion is extremely difficult and would take many months of professional coaching just for a start. Going from hang eliminates a big portion of technique, is safer, allows for bigger weights and therefore for a bigger power output, both in therms of pure weight and explosiveness. Moreover, going from hang I entirely focus on the posterior chain and leave my already big quads out of the equation.
There you go!
P.s. Congrats on the 3xBW warm ups. Monster.

[Nibile]

Here's the video, uncut. The consequences of the short apnea phases are quite evident...

[fatneck]

Keep seeing this thread and thinking it's about easy yet socially acceptable ways to smoke dooby last week...

[Yossarian]

TG - Continue shrinking, get stronger
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - 8a, etc

Mon - Chimera. Good board session. Arms felt fairly fresh, did a few trickier problems first go. Then returned to try to finish volumes problem downstairs. Very close first go, and then about 30 more goes with diminishing progress.
Tues - Statham megamix, including some ab roller. Need to figure out some harder chest exercises. Wish we had space for a bench.
Wed - Fitted pull-up bar. Realised one-armers are some way away.
Thursday - Chimera. More progress on board. Tried some campusing - felt ok, rather than a complete recipe for disaster. Couldn’t quite get 1-3-5. Did some laddering, bumps, etc. Tried some problems downstairs but was feeling fairly tired by that point.
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Chimera. Wrists felt fucked, ditto knuckles. Found some steeper, juggier things which were less painful, but then gave up fairly swiftly.
Sunday - Rest

Weight: 96.7kg - 96.1kg

I don’t think the campus board was entirely to blame - I think it exacerbated various things that were building up anyway. Both my middle two PIP joints have been achey / swollen recently, and I’ve also had residual tenderness in my wrists that seems to take ages to go away. Anyway, some rest planned now and also less steep fingery stuff for a while...