[shark]

 11.3-4 (Average 157.7 down 0.2lb on last week )

M..

T.  Tor. Just me and the dog again. Lot of seepage and drippage, Kind of messed up planned tactics as initially thought only first half of Ben's dry. Holds a bit damp and a bit off the pace and didnt get to kneebar from start. Multiple ascents of Too Hard at end trying to get it dialled. Disappointing session.

W.

T.

F.

S.  Fingerboard session unweighted half crimp till recruited. Then on to desperate Oak project on home board - better on the 3 sections/problems but still not doing them back to back

S. Systems board, Definite improvement left arm undercutting. Tried AnCap circuit - did two repeats but felt too tired for a third. Long rest then failed again so did AeroCap twenty tens (standard) managed one set then failed on final 20 of second set

Snowy weather put me off going out friday and at weekend. Impressed by Old Cheese getting out to Anston and getting conditions on Saturday.

Meant to have two days off after poor Tor session which became three and feeling better for it.

Been doing a lot of self massage with foam roller and knobbly ball and some theraband and yoga block work once or twice a day and it is beginning to pay off with some re decreased muscle soreness, feeling looser, slightly improved ROM, better posture and possibly some better climbing movement.

Booked on to the Malham bus on Tuesday and Friday. Unlikely to be dry on Oak so will work out on other things to acclimatise

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - light foot on campusing.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1, fourth week of fourth cycle. Now let me tell you about this session: it should have been the deload session. It wasn't. Oh no it was not. It fucking was fucking not. The previous session had let me quite disappointed, and produced lots of thinking and tinkering: I know that I'm probably stronger at 90-95% than at my 1 RM, but there was too big a difference between my 90% and my 95% efforts. So I analyzed things and the videos I always take (to check form and for not having to pay too much attention to counting reps). Anyway... I figured out that one of the major problems was overall fatigue and being out of breath after a few hard reps. The apnea phase of the lift leaves you quite worked after each rep. Problem is, it's quite hard to rest and catch your breath with a barbell loaded at 95% in your hands. So, I built higher rests, to start each rep from the blocks, instead of from hanging the barbell. Well, it didn't work: I found out that starting from blocks does not allow to fully engage my core, because, simply, I don't have to. The bar is on the rests, and despite trying hard I couldn't generate the same core tension as when I bend with the barbell in my hands, before exploding up. Dammit. So, here comes Wednesday evening. I did a true, quick and effective warm up. No bullshit. Did the programmed session, 5x40%, 5x50%, 5x60%. I had thought about doing this deload session, then trying again the previous session at 95% next week. Then I thought about doing this session and then trying a few singles up to 1 RM. I ended up doing something in between. The main thing was, that I decided to use this session to really check my ego and refine my technique at least a little bit. Boy did it pay off. I started concentrating on keeping my arms extended as much as possible, and on not shrugging my shoulders and engaging my traps before it's needed. Then, I focused on receiving the bar with a solid bend in my knees, and not with straight legs. I spent all the three sets to learn to duck at least a little bit under the bar, and it felt damn good. So I kept going. I did 3x70%, 3x80% and 2x90%, keeping these cues well clear in my mind: straight arms, shoulders down, lower slowly, explode up, bend the knees, receive the bar, stand up. Then, instead of doing singles, I loaded the bar with 95% and decided to give it a serious go. With a renewed attitude and a little bit more technique - I'm still bad though - I matched my previous session's (poor) result, and then kept going. Reps number 4 and 5 went down, then I was quite breathless. I paused to catch my breath, did rep number 6, which was quite poor honestly, and then I was really out of breath for good and with exploding forearms despite the straps. So I stepped forward and put the bar on the blocks, paused, relaxed, released my grip, got some fresh air in, and then I stood up again and did another - excellent - rep. Seven. The new blocks seemed to work and I decided to keep going: rest with the bar on the blocks, stand up, clean the bar. Eight. Then again and again. Ten reps. Ten reps with the last three as technically good as the first ones, if not better. I felt explosive and mean. I could have done another one, but ten seemed fine. My previous effort was three. So I passed from 3 to 10 in one week, using just a little bit of technique, and some imagination. I feel that resting the bar on the blocks is legit and sound, a sensible thing to do while dealing with technical, explosive and extremely CNS-demanding excercises. These excercises are not suited for high reps, so it's good to be proactive and think about keeping a sound technique, especially if all the technique you have is not much anyway. Now I will take next session as a real deload session, then I'll start cycle number 5.
In between lifts I warmed up my fingers, did some front3 and back3 hangs on my 9 mm edge, then some one arm hangs on the 15 mm edge, and that was all.
Get the fuck in. I'm really happy about how I reacted to my setback and about the outcome.
Thu - climbing class. Set and climbed one problem. Elbow sore afterwards.
Fri - rest.
Sat - core complex; hill sprints. Beautiful session.
Sun -  snatch 5x5. One arm hangs on 1,5 cm x10.

[duncan]

Hello power-people. A twofer due to being away in Spain.

STG - Manage aches and pains. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly. 7b at Siurana. Vertical V4 indoors by end March.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; 7b+; a long free route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before.
LTG - tbc


M - Fingerboard. Micro session of ‘max’ hangs. Shoulder strengthening.
T - Stretches. Shoulder strengthening
W - Westway routes to 6c.
T - Stretches.
F - Flight to Barcelona
S - El Falco. Onsighting to 6c. Usual clunky feeling having not climbed much rock for several months.
S - Siurana Grau dels Masets. Warmed up. Tried Sac de Gemecs (7a) thinking it was the 7b to the left. Went quickly and easily for 7b so not surprised to later find it wasn’t.
M - Rest day
T - Siurana Can Toni Gros. Warmed up, tried Lo burxot (7b) but a bit too steep and bouldery for me. Black Uhuru (7b) came free, worked this briefly then red pointed it. Very good.
W - Siurana Grau dels Masets. Tried warming up but shoulder sore and generally tired. Rest day.
T - Rest day. Shoulder sore.
F - Siurana Grau dels Masets. Warmed up, then strolled up Cenar, beber, emborracharse... (6c). Great fun, felt like a Pembroke E3.
S - Siurna Primavera. Cold! Warmed-up but then it started raining. Flight home.
S - Fingerboard: micro session of ‘max’ hangs.

Very good week in Siurana. Pleased to do Black Uhuru quickly as I'd belayed a friend on this a decade or more ago and had it in my mind ever since. Feel like I’m a bit ahead of where I usually am in March and could be trying harder stuff. Fingerboarding and bouldering helps sport-climbing, who’d have thought it!?

Plan: continue with the aerocap., bouldering and fingerboarding.

[Yossarian]

Very good week in Siurana. Pleased to do Black Uhuru quickly as I'd belayed a friend on this a decade or more ago and had it in my mind ever since. Feel like I’m a bit ahead of where I usually am in March and could be trying harder stuff. Fingerboarding and bouldering helps sport-climbing, who’d have thought it!?

Bravo Duncan! Have a wad point.

[Coops_13]

STG: Continue finger training without getting injured, luck out with some decent weather for the odd day out I have planned
MTG: 7C

M: Ab Ripper X
T: Arch, general puntering then a play on the 50
W: Jumping on Yetix's bandwagon of Yoga
T:
F: Arch, Bechtel ladder fingerboarding, saw jshaw's post about it and it actually looks like something I could do long-term as it seems a lot less tweaky than other forms of fingerboarding. Gonna do a few sessions of "week 1" over the next few weeks then get into the four-week cycle when I'm back from a week away at Easter. Finished the session by almost flashing a green (v6-8), did it 2nd go, must be soft.
S:
S: Arch, day of climbing problems. Ticked off another 6C+ BM on the moondboard and a 7A before focusing on problems. Worked another green from stand start on the main overhang then added the sit to give me my second green for months... Finished playing around on the bar and rings

[csl]

Well done Duncan, glad the hard work is paying off! Wadded.

This week

- 3 days outside - 2/3
- 3 7's - 1/3

March

- 4 days out - 3/4
- 4 Greens at the Arch - 3/4
- stretching at least 2x a week - i'm really failing at this

this year

7C
hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: ~ 72.9kg - good to see this still creeping downwards
injuries: nothing of note

Tuesday

Arch

- some problems up to 7A
Moonboard
- 6C Flash, some good goes on Iron Arm 7B, got to the last move. Did all the moves on Coca & Mignotte 7B.

Friday

Drove to N. Wales, all the warm ups wet at Cromlech so went to Jerry's Roof. Managed to do Bus Stop fairly quickly YYFY, fell off having basically topped out twice in the summer so was absolutely buzzing when I did it, first 7B+. Did Roadside Arete and the easy version of Chocolate Moose after.

Saturday

Should have been selfish and stuck to my plan of bouldering, but wanted to hang out with my mate and ended up at Gogarth. Sheltered at South Stack but felt a bit unusual climbing in the snow. Did Blanco and North West Passage, both very good.

Sunday

In hindsight I clearly should have gone to the cave, ended up wasting most of the morning and then driving home to London.

coming week

- Do 1 of my moonboard projects
- Dedicate some time to stretching!

[Coops_13]

Managed to do Bus Stop fairly quickly YYFY, fell off having basically topped out twice in the summer so was absolutely buzzing when I did it, first 7B+.

Wad

[yetix]

Sick effort with Bus Stop CSL!


STG: Rock Atrocity. Just going to keep working it until it goes
MTG: Paint It Black + Suavito
LTG: 8A

62.7kg


M: Depot. Sent most of the purples and a couple of yellows
T: Yoga
W: Yoga
T: Yoga
F: Rest
S: Parisellas. Reached my previous highpoint despite it being baltic! Pretty psyched as I felt v strong on it until my foot slipped off and I panicked
S: Parisellas, was exhausted (2 days in the cave should be a no go for me when will I learn!) so went to the boardroom and just did some easy volume.

[Will Hunt]

first 7B+

 

[highrepute]

- stretching at least 2x a week - i'm really failing at this
[...]
- Dedicate some time to stretching!

Try being more specific with the weekly aim, I find that goals I don't properly plan in don't get done.

i.e. Dedicate 1 hour to stretching on Monday after dinner while I'm watching Game of Thrones.

[csl]

- stretching at least 2x a week - i'm really failing at this
[...]
- Dedicate some time to stretching!

Try being more specific with the weekly aim, I find that goals I don't properly plan in don't get done.

i.e. Dedicate 1 hour to stretching on Monday after dinner while I'm watching Game of Thrones.

Good idea! With that in mind...

This Week

- stretch for the duration of my GF's favourite shit TV programme (45 minutes) on Monday night, 10 points to whoever guesses it.

[cheque]

my GF's favourite shit TV programme (45 minutes) on Monday night, 10 points to whoever guesses it.

If she's anything like mine, the answer is Masterchef. Feels longer than 45 minutes though.

[erm, sam]

Masterchef is Tuesday, and is an hour.

[Will Hunt]

Isn't Masterchef on every night? In fact, isn't it just on ALL THE FUCKING TIME?

[cheque]

Isn't Masterchef on every night? In fact, isn't it just on ALL THE FUCKING TIME?

It certainly feels like it. I have such issues with that Greg guy (so does my other half, she just finds some imperceptible entertainment value in the rest of the show that makes it worth putting up with him) but I won't pull Power Club further off course by venting them.

[T_B]

M - General moving around and a few L2s. Felt pretty tired.
T - Was gonna go out for a lamp sess with Dave but we decided to #respecttherock as not sure whether it would be properly dry.
W - PM board - 20 mins warm up was knackered so sacked it.
T - Lunch. Furnace board. Warmed up but got chatting and felt tired so sacked it.
F -
S -
S - Homeboard - decent 1 hour session.

Basically took we all week to recover from the CWIF 

[nai]

is it DIY SOS?

[nai]

Nice one duncan & good work csl

M - nowt

T - LI AeroCap, 3x16mins. Hip mobility routine

W - back felt 90% but decided to skip trying Reservation again, headed to Froggatt to try the Tombstone problems but they were a bit green and scrittly and slightly damp, opted to #respecttherock and head straight home. Did AnCap on campus board again. 3 sets x 4 reps 40s laddering on M2, absolutely trashed, felt a good workout.

Th rest

Fr - intended to boulder in garage AM and do some mobility work but nipper off school with earache so Drs appointment instead before....
assessment with TimC, ProPeakFitness, R shoulder is impinged and both are weak in to out but otherwise ok, slighly stiff but nothing too bad. Left hip also weak when pulling, stiffness in both and muscles fire in the wrong order when lifting legs.  Nothing too much to worry about, although the interesting thing is that this means I can't get weight through my feet as well as I should be able to so something to work on which will have clear benfits to performance if they can be ironed out.  Given the all clear to keep climbing at full intensity.

PM - managed 20 minutes limit bouldering in garage then did HI AeroCap.

S - intended to go to Foundry while nipper was at a party in town in the evening. Set off in Mrs car, snow got heavy, started sliding around and wheel spinning so turned around and went home, nearly getting stuck a couple of times.  Why I chose a BMW rather than a 4wd van I don't know

S - intended garage session but the snow meant all the kids plans were cancelled so 4 hours (standing watching) sledging.  Tried to get going in the evening but the garage holds were super slick and foot rubber was stiff and skidding off. Wasn't moving at all well and opted to switch to fingerboarding. 

Bit of a frustrating end to the week although obviously pleased there's no damage to shoulder and I can keep training.

Coming week:
normal full week, be nice to complete one of my board projects but that depends on whether it's possible to climb out or not.

coming month:
2 weeks til the Easter holidays then it really is time to get the ropes out.

[abarro81]

Can't belive you don't like Greg.  He's the reason I watch masterchef!

[fried]

Isn't Masterchef on every night? In fact, isn't it just on ALL THE FUCKING TIME?

It certainly feels like it. I have such issues with that Greg guy (so does my other half, she just finds some imperceptible entertainment value in the rest of the show that makes it worth putting up with him) but I won't pull Power Club further off course by venting them.

You're lucky. It last for 3 hours in France, but with only the same 45 mins of non-information.

March check in

2/3 indoor sessions per week. This is the longest most depressing winter I can remember I could sense spring coming but it all turned out to be an illusion. The last time I had a climbable day was in November. I'm going slightly crazy. Sorted out my French admin problems, managed to not get divorced before I get married...watching the sky.

[36chambers]

Managed to do Bus Stop fairly quickly YYFY, fell off having basically topped out twice in the summer so was absolutely buzzing when I did it, first 7B+.

Nice one csl, good to hear     

[Murph]

Nibs - that is the most powerful powerclub entry I've seen in some time! Congrats and well done you are an inspiration.
Bus Stop YYFY first 7B+ - good work csl enjoy your moment
Duncan - great to hear your holiday's gone so well

Quick one from me
M-kettlebells, superabs
T-power hour doing new blacks, usual fingerboard routine (+40kgs etc), kettlebells superabs, 5k run
W-kettlebells superabs
T-10k run to work, 5k run to works, MOTHERBOARD session. Waged wall with that mofo for an hour or more. Got up the 6C+ (first time to the top, lower case yyfy), sorta got to the top on another one but matched on one of the wrong holds so it doesn't count. Saw Highrepute there  and he taught me a thing or two. In fact it was quite humbling seeing how he (and other folk there) get up that thing. I'm more conscious than ever of my utter absence of talent. Running, kettlebells, heavy hangs with bad form, core work, it's all bullshit. Oh well keep trying.
F-kettlebells & superabs
S-10k run in light snow, kettlebells, abs (not super)
S-10k run in very heavy snow up dronfield. It was like that scene in Rocky IV when Stalone is training for his matchup with Soviet superfreak Drago. Binned it on the last corner and bashed my knee up. Swoled up real bad. Sledging and cheat food at the Crown (S17s / SW Sheffield's best pub grub type pub in case you didn't know).

64.5kgs that's not going anywhere.

TIL this week from the latticeboard threat - fingerboard properly, at least on the normal holds, engage fingers, half crimp, make the fingers do the work don't cheat by using friction.
TIL this week from Highrepute - get up the MB seemingly by bucketloads of skill and also, I suspect, with a little bit of magic or something.

[nai]

Nibs - that is the most powerful powerclub entry I've ever seen in some time! Congrats and well done you are an inspiration.

[nai]

Sledging and cheat food at the Crown (S17s / SW Sheffield's best pub grub type pub in case you didn't know).

What time were you there? I was in pub 1-2ish and on the hill 2-3ish

[abarro81]

In fact it was quite humbling seeing how he (and other folk there) get up that thing. I'm more conscious than ever of my utter absence of talent.

Don't worry about talent, just replace all of the kettlebells with actually climbing!

Running, kettlebells, heavy hangs with bad form, core work, it's all bullshit. Oh well keep trying.
F-kettlebells & superabs

 

[gme]

Couldn’t agree with Alex more. Looking at your post 90% of your week is spent doing what should be supplementary stuff. From what I can see you only climbed a few blacks and a session on the MB which isn’t that much different to campusing.
Seems all the wrong way round.

[highrepute]

TIL this week from Highrepute - get up the MB seemingly by bucketloads of skill and also, I suspect, with a little bit of magic or something.

It's just practise. I've loved climbing on boards since my conversion in 2010 at the Mitford Road board. I pretty much climb on a board every single indoor session I have.

Also, you do yourself an injustice. You looked good on the MB. It's an especially hard board and takes a few sessions to develop the technique to climb it.

Couldn’t agree with Alex more. Looking at your post 90% of your week is spent doing what should be supplementary stuff. From what I can see you only climbed a few blacks and a session on the MB which isn’t that much different to campusing.
Seems all the wrong way round.

I also agree. Although, I suspect you enjoy the quantifiable nature of dead-hanging. Whereas, GainZ from pure climbing are much harder to quantify and can seemingly shift like sand from one month to the next - more so for grit than lime. I'd say work your weaknesses more but don't give up on the things that you enjoy/keep-you-motivated completely.

[measles23]

Nibs - love that you’ve abandoned numbers for percentages - kinda like when Sharma gave up grading stuff; it’s all about the experience man! You using RPE?
Apnoea phase = wtf
Also out of curiosity with your snatches you don’t lower bar to the ground between reps; what’s the knowledge on that?

Murph = an 8B climbing body trapped with the mind of a 7B climber but what’s new


T - DL 13 sets: 3BW now officially part of my warmup; forgot my cue to get head up quickly so dropped first 2 heavy sets leaning too far forward, manned up to pull a PB equalling 235 off 1” block  - gonna take 8 days off then go for PB off the floor..

Th - Max hangs BM micros (10mm) steady bunch of sets of +20x5s

Thassit

[Murph]

Alex, Gav, James

Thanks very much all for your feedback. Agree 100% that I'd be a lot further on in my life's goal if I was able to prioritise more climbing. I appreciate this is power club, not excuse club, but between a full time job and loads o' childcare (with nary an inlaw in sight) I really don't know where I could get more time to climb from. The kettlebells/superabs stuff is literally a 20 minute routine that I normally squeeze in between getting home / kids down at 8pm and eating dinner before making packed lunches and getting enough sleep to not be in too much of a deficit come wakey wakey time at 6:something the next morning.

Running, kettlebells, heavy hangs with bad form, core work, it's all bullshit. Oh well keep trying.
F-kettlebells & superabs

 

When you put it like that it looks pretty stupid. What I don't mention was 7am-7pm was childcare. I really have no idea how I could get a decent board session in with a 2 year old and 4 year old running around. Mrs gets back at 7 and then there's a bedtime routine - it's not like I can just give her a fistbump as I walk out the door when she comes home from work.

I'd say work your weaknesses more but don't give up on the things that you enjoy/keep-you-motivated completely.

James - yep, I think you get what's going on in my head, it's a case of not letting perfect be the enemy of good. I know full well that kettlebells isn't the best thing to do, but I reckon it does something and I've not got injured in the shoulder area for a while now possibly because of that. The abs stuff is simply that Mason tests your core strength when he assesses you and hollow bodies are, apparently, one of the essential gymnastic positions so I just crack out a 5 minute session while my dinner is in the microwave. Supermen are a piece of piss in comparison but it can't hurt to do a couple of them too.

Two good board sessions a week would probably be a lot better than one, I get all that. And if only I could get outside regularly for a decent session that's longer than a warm up. But climbing simply isn't the priority. Much as I would like it to be, it's probably only third on the list. I should go part time or something and downsize. But for why. If I ever get up AT I'm fairly confident I will give up bouldering and just enjoy my golden years.

Murph = an 8B climbing body trapped with the mind of a 7B climber but what’s new

Thanks Matt, talk about untapped something or other. Good work on your 3BW warm ups 

[abarro81]

Yeah, if it's all the time you got it's all the time you got and there's not much you can easily change about that!

[erm, sam]

Things do get a lot easier as the kids get bigger, so keep the faith, it won' t always be like this (I know you are not complaining, but it is obviously challenging at times). I can now do a fingerboard session when the kids are up in the evenings as they just get on with their stuff, and I can have a longer session at the weekend guilt free because they are mostly less stressfull to manage..

[tomtom]

Isn't Masterchef on every night? In fact, isn't it just on ALL THE FUCKING TIME?

It certainly feels like it. I have such issues with that Greg guy (so does my other half, she just finds some imperceptible entertainment value in the rest of the show that makes it worth putting up with him) but I won't pull Power Club further off course by venting them.

Apparently fat bloke and sarky wanker don't socialise/talk at all outside of the studio. I'd NEARLY prefer to watch a box set of Dawsons Creek than any of the Master Chef franchise. But not quite...

[tomtom]

Double post...

Week before
M: Wall
W: Somewhere -
F: Somewhere else
Su: Outside again I think (its been a long couple of weeks)
M: Travel to Berlin
W: Back from Berlin - off to Brownstones for an hour or so...
Fr: Off to Tenerife for a week (Work).

Training/climbing all turns to shit until late April, with 3 days Berlin > 2 days home  > 8 days Tenerife > 6 days home > 7 days Morocco > 2 days home > 5 days Vienna. No opportunity to train or climb whilst away....

[Murph]

Nai - just seem. Must have been there about the same time as you. Would have said hello!

Erm Sam - thanks man. Yeah it’s just a difficult patch. Absolutely not complaining though (even if it might sound like it...)

[Nibile]

Guys, especially Murph and Nai: thank you for your words, I really appreciate!

[Nibile]

Measles, I'll reply in a while!

[Nibile]

Nibs - love that you’ve abandoned numbers for percentages - kinda like when Sharma gave up grading stuff; it’s all about the experience man! You using RPE?
Apnoea phase = wtf
Also out of curiosity with your snatches you don’t lower bar to the ground between reps; what’s the knowledge on that?

Here I am.
I'm using precentages because I'm using the 5-3-1 program, that is built around percentages. In my previous Power Club entries I've used kilos, but just because I record each session with kilos for percentage: I've always written the kilos and reps for my last set. Basically, of the three load sessions of the program, the last set of each session will always be at: 85%, 90%, 95% of the current cycle training max. AMRAP. So I keep track of the kilos and reps for each percentage, so that I can make comparisons cycle after cycle, if I want to. After the deload session, I start another cycle with a new training max, upon which I calculate each session's percentages. So, no RPE, but percentages.
Then, the apnea. I don't exactly understand what you mean by WTF, but for each rep I breathe in and hold my breath from before starting to hip hinge down, to when I lower the bar from my shoulders to my hips. It's not so long, but it's hard, and even harder rep after rep to catch your breath.
Then, cleaning and snatching from hang instead of from the ground. There are a few reasons, the first one being the technique required to go from the ground. Clearing the knees and then accelerating the hinge up in a continuous motion is extremely difficult and would take many months of professional coaching just for a start. Going from hang eliminates a big portion of technique, is safer, allows for bigger weights and therefore for a bigger power output, both in therms of pure weight and explosiveness. Moreover, going from hang I entirely focus on the posterior chain and leave my already big quads out of the equation.
There you go!
P.s. Congrats on the 3xBW warm ups. Monster.

[Nibile]

Here's the video, uncut. The consequences of the short apnea phases are quite evident...

[fatneck]

Keep seeing this thread and thinking it's about easy yet socially acceptable ways to smoke dooby last week...

[Yossarian]

TG - Continue shrinking, get stronger
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - 8a, etc

Mon - Chimera. Good board session. Arms felt fairly fresh, did a few trickier problems first go. Then returned to try to finish volumes problem downstairs. Very close first go, and then about 30 more goes with diminishing progress.
Tues - Statham megamix, including some ab roller. Need to figure out some harder chest exercises. Wish we had space for a bench.
Wed - Fitted pull-up bar. Realised one-armers are some way away.
Thursday - Chimera. More progress on board. Tried some campusing - felt ok, rather than a complete recipe for disaster. Couldn’t quite get 1-3-5. Did some laddering, bumps, etc. Tried some problems downstairs but was feeling fairly tired by that point.
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Chimera. Wrists felt fucked, ditto knuckles. Found some steeper, juggier things which were less painful, but then gave up fairly swiftly.
Sunday - Rest

Weight: 96.7kg - 96.1kg

I don’t think the campus board was entirely to blame - I think it exacerbated various things that were building up anyway. Both my middle two PIP joints have been achey / swollen recently, and I’ve also had residual tenderness in my wrists that seems to take ages to go away. Anyway, some rest planned now and also less steep fingery stuff for a while...