[nai]

M -
suspected everywhere would be a condensed spoogey mess, so garage, even that was tacky.
3 problems x 12 minutes -
1. exisiting 8 moves, tried four times, completed twice, close once more.
2. project - 6 moves - did 3 move links
3. basic 2 moves, effectively foot on campussing 1-3-5 on small crusher crimps at 40 degrees. Could do each move but not link them.

Max hangs -
beat all PBs on current setup

conditioning - pullups, pressups, TRX, core

T - conditioning - hipmobility, calisthenics, core
3x16mins LI AeroCap

W - Anston with tt & Dolly.  Worked a sequence on Reservation but struggled with the cut loose onto the crimps which ended the few attempts from the start.  Think I can be positive though, felt like it wasn't too far away.
Dolly & tt do no LI training so suffer from poor recovery, lack session stamina and had to leave early.  I moved on to try Alpha but got nowhere so decided I may as well have another quick look at Blind Bat.
I can't start with the lunge between bivi-ledges as per the usual method so need to do some actual rock climbing involving a hard move on a waffer thiiin crimp.  Just pulling on the move felt feasible so tried the upper wall and found the first move was easier not shuffling out left onto the bigger 2 man ledge.  Started trying it and after a couple of attempts held the start and managed to suss the final moves on the fly to close out another over-long siege.  Happy to get this in the circumstances, until the succesful attempt I hadn't done 3 of the 6 moves and could only do the easy first one consistently so for it all to fall into place really quickly at the very end of a session like this is quite pleasing.



Eve - typing a message asking if any mates fancied the Tor on Friday while cooking kids dinner, bent down to open a kitchen drawer and felt something in my back pop.

Th - woke up with tender Glute max/med. Spent a lot of time on a foam roller & spikey ball, stretching and researching Glute strengthening/mobility exercises.

Fri - scheduled as an AnCap day but needed to avoid the steep board so was planning to switch to HI AeroCap on the campus board.  Started to experiment and found that campussing 1-3-5-5 on two fingers then down 3-2-1 on 3 could work.  Worked ok for forearms but didn't generate the same full body meltdown
Stretching, foam rolling, Glute exercises

Sa - HI AeroCap on campus board. Stretching/self massage, etc. Scap pressups & pullups

Su - supposed to be a rest day but forecast suggested a rejiggle, started warming up to boulder but felt the muscle that popped on Thursday complain so switched to Max Hangs. 
Scores ok generally except 4F 1/2 crimp which is all over the place - +12kg x 10s easily one session then fighting to hold 10kg for just 6s the next. Not a scooby why.....
Pullups
Tried TRX but shulder didn't like it
Pressups
Glute exercises

Decent week apart from the back tweak which came out of nowhere, really thought I'd been doing everything right. Inevitably just as everything seems to be coming together.  Seeing a movemement focussed coach on Friday so possiby get some direction from that.

[Coops_13]

M:
T: Moonboard. 3 6B+, 4 6C and 2 7A
W: Arch, mostly climbing problems but finished with a few 6B+ on moonboard to warm down
T:
F: Arch, finished off my last two 6B+ benchmarks on the moonboard, Rusty Morning and Warm up No. 10, so hard. Now officially a 6B+ climber! Hurt finger on the last one so after doing another 6C, called it a night and went drinking with csl
S:
S: Arch, moonboard sesh. Finger seemed ok for the most part. Did 4 6B+, 6C and a 7B (6C). Failed on a lot of others

Both middle fingers have weird tweaks atm, not sure if anyone can diagnose. Some kind of pain on the top of my finger roughly at the A4 point when I bend the finger to the max?

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7anything

Not great deal from me - more physio on my still crocked shoulder.

Tuesday's #snowmogeddon cost me another physio cancellation (second week running) but just keeping up the exercises.

Additionally booked in a session with Peak Pro Fitness for this week, which I'm hoping may offer additional / alternative insight as I'm hitting a quite disappointing phase where it's not improving, if anything it's getting worse.

[yetix]

STG: Rock Atrocity. Just going to keep working it until it goes
MTG: Paint It Black + Suavito
LTG: 8A

62.7kg


M: Yoga
T: Depot. Worked on a couple of oranges, dropping the last move of 1 5-6 times. Sent a couple more yellow problems. Had a quick dabble on the 50.
1 arm hangs 3/6/9secondsx5 with assistance (shoulders felt like the limiting factor on these hangs today, likely done too much in the session beforehand!)
W: Yoga
T: Depot.Dropped the end on a couple of oranges (again). resent an old board project on the 30. 1 arm hangs with assistance 3/6/9secondsx5
F: Awesome walls, bouldering on the steep side.
S: Rest
S: Boulder UK. Sent most problems upto v6.
Got on the 55 board and struggled to maintain any tension, hoping I was just a little too tired rather than weaker!   

Feeling exhausted at the end of the week but having a lighter week this week before heading back to the cave at the weekend.

[csl]

This week

forgot to set goals

March

4 days out - 1/4
2 4 Greens at the Arch - 3/4
stretching at least 2x a week

this year

7C
hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: ~ 73.5kg
injuries: bad back, might need to see someone about this

Tuesday

Arch with Coops

some 6B+ and 6C's and a soft 7A on the moonboard.
First time properly trying Ironarm and actually felt doable.
played plus 1 on the new 50º board

Friday

Arch - morning

Did most of the new stuff, including another green in about 5 goes.

Sunday

Day raid to Cratcliffe/Robin Hoods Stride with some psyched beginner pals. Lots of stuff, highlights being Stepped Arete/The Spine, Razor Roof and The Cave Problem

coming week

3 days outside, fingers crossed for North Wales
3 7's

[T_B]

M - Rest
T - Campus + furnace. 1-4-6-9, close on 1-4-7 on right, 1-4-6.6 on left. 4 problems on Furnace - felt great on all of them. Hope this peak lasts until Easter.
W -
T - Lattice test. 98, 74 (75%), 56 (57%), 28 (28%), 28 (28%), 14 (14%).
F - Saw forecast and got a late entry to the CWIF.
S - CWIF morning session. 171 points. Punted four problems on the first attempt (did second go) and there were another couple where I fell off either trying to match or going for the finishing hold. But generally felt I did alright, despite being somewhat rusty. Highlight was watching Martin (?), the guy with one leg, dispatch problem 4 on the comp wall. Had to have a nap in the afternoon.
S -

A quiet week, was generally knackered and feeling old. Enjoyed Saturday but it reminded me that you can stay strong without climbing much, but to climb well you need to climb more than a few hours a week!

Glad they've 'toned' down the CWIF to make it available to the masses again. 2016 was really hard and apparently last year was even harder. This year I got 16 more points than in 2016 when I was climbing more.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingerboarding! I love it. Various one arm hangs on 1,5 cm edge, up to +10 kg for RH. Regular hangs on 0,5 cm edges, up to +15 kg x 2. A few tests on 1 cm edge with RH. Encouraging session. Weights complex, high pulls, press, pull ups. Tiring. 
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1, third week of fourth cycle, 72x3/4. Setback, very tired before starting, too little sleep the night before. Also, probably Monday session was too heavy weights wise.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - ab wheel/weights comples.
Sun - tweaking the power clean, various singles up to 78 kg. Tried new setup, didn't work.
After my bad score in the last session, I felt I needed a change of mindset for these sessions. Week after week I found it to be slightly too repetitive even for myself, plus now that I'm using heavier weights I got close to fullfill my potential using my current - awful - technique. I should probably attend a course of some sort, but then it would all become even more complicated and sidetracking.
Told myself that this current aim is still a secondary one, the main one still being being climbing-strong: core, fingers. I got too obsessed by my fast initial progresses and forgot to stick to the original plan: recovering while getting strong.
So, to ease the pressure from my power clean sessions I decided to match each session with a fingerboarding session. Probably alternating sets. This should give the necessary focus on the main aim, while at the same time making lifting fun again. Lately the enjoyment was only related to the performance, and I don't need this mindset for weights as well, just for climbing it's more than enough.
There you go.

[tomtom]

NIBS!

I was expecting to see snuck in there:

Thursday: Nun hurling (or equivalent)

[tommytwotone]

Th - woke up with tender Glute max/med. Spent a lot of time...researching Glute strengthening/mobility exercises.

I've never heard it referred to as that before.

[measles23]

68.8kg

M-nul
T- not sparky due to bit of gut rot..
Max hangs open crimp BM micros (10mm): 9 sets - pathetic 1s at +35kg so relaxed back into working sets (3x(+20 x 5s))
Strength Asylum: Deadlift 9 sets - repeated previous PB of 230kg at a new body weight record of 3.34BW, got gready and went for 235 which was not the plan and consequently failed at the knee - silly to try really when not sparking..
W- nul
T- DL (conventional): 11 sets- warmups up to 200, failed to PB at 220, compensated with sumo 220, working sets at 180
1-armers: 6 sets up to +2.5 on right, poor +5 on left

Getting slightly over trained with twice weekly DL but will all be worth it when the big numbers roll in..

[shark]

 11.3-5 (Average 157.9 up 0.9lb on last week )

M. Figured Tor would be condensed in morning but decided to check it out in afternoon. Pretty gopping still but first half of Bens was about climbable. Managed to link from start to past the kneebar twice. Progress.

T.  Weighted hangs drags and half crimps. Tried hard but no PB'

W.

T. After grim morning with more unexpected snow turned nicer in afternoon do dragged my sorry arse back to the tor. Got the mid section link I was after 3x. Means I can now do the whole problem in 3 sections. Hopefully get that down to 2 next visit

F.Session with Tim C again. Showed me lots of stretching exercise and showed that I tended to disengage shoulder when climbing and 90% convinced me this was a very bad thing and could improve my climbing if I got better function through stetching and applied it 

S. Fingerboard weighted half crimos then played on my Oak project on board – experimenting with shoulder and hip engagement

S. Systems board. More shoulder obsession. Reacquanted myself with Oak AnCap circuit and Aerocap circuit. Going to ease back into this

Session with Tim was again thought provoking and made me look up and think about shoulder engagement when climbing. This article is quite illuminating. Most stuff on shoulder work is to do with injury prevention but Tim did a fairly good job of persuading me that engaging shoulders better make for more efficient climbing  Of course there is whole load of stretching, posture and activating dormant muscle shizzle to get me really efficient which Im not fully bought into yet as its time consuming and dull and I dont have big injury issues.     

Also I have been aware for some time that my left arm is set oddly in my shoulder joint and whilst better than it was from stretching and physio is still stubbornly out of kilter. Whilst Tim didn't major on this it is something that is really annoying me now so want to sort that out first 

Chuffed with progress on Ben’s so not so bothered about weight gain.

Pics of Malham look grim.

[Yossarian]

STG - Continue shrinking, get stronger, press on with sandstone (re)apprenticeship
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - 8a, etc

Mon - Chimera. Good board session, followed by trying to repeat various problems in good style. It’s occured to me recently how little I use my heels, or anything other than the front of my feet. Need to address this.
Tues -  4.5mile run on seafront - first successful run since Achilles injury. Didn’t go particularly hard, but still felt battered at the end.
Wed - Chimera. Felt quite lethargic, but figured out some more new things on the board. Think I’m verging on making things too hard. Think it might be better to figure out things I get in an handful of goes, and then eliminate certain holds.
Thursday - Started Beastmaker session but fingers felt sore so stopped.
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Chimera. Started off feeling quite drained, but perked up, and it turned into a mammoth 3.5hr session trying loads of harder problems. Need to work on lower body / hip mobility.
Sunday - Rest

Weight: 96.9kg - 96.7kg - Need to get on with dropping the next few kgs, as I seem to have reached a bit of a plateau.

Seem to be climbing quite well at the wall, but also seem to have had lingering fatigue all week, despite less sessions / more rest days. As soon as the weather improves I’m going to try to get outside a couple of times midweek and also add in some proper stretching sessions again.

[erm, sam]

Most stuff on shoulder work is to do with injury prevention but Tim did a fairly good job of persuading me that engaging shoulders better make for more efficient climbing 

I think this is super important. I have been working on one arm scapular retractions in order that when I hit a hold at full stretch I can then control the shoulder joint and move off it, rather than hanging on it but not being able to do anything as the shoulder is not engaged. When the shoulder joint is not engaged properly I have to scrap around to take some more weight off in order to engage before I can do the next move. This is not effecient.

Engaged shoulders also equals a more strength and control when moving between widely spaced holds..

[Dolly]

M
T Longish wet and muddy bike ride. I've forgotten just how much you want to eat after a long ride.
W Anston with TT and Nai. Felt a bit rusty but not as bas as I feared. Looking forward to going back on Reservation this week. I've no idea what LI training is Nai, but I'm probably quite glad I dont really
T Kettlebells and core with lots of shoulder physio stuff
F Beastmaker and a short fast ride
S
S Shed power

[abarro81]

Session with Tim was again thought provoking and made me look up and think about shoulder engagement when climbing. This article is quite illuminating.

Whilst I fully agree with erm,sam about shoulder engagement being dead important for catching holds on big moves and not having to reengage etc., I'm about as sceptical as sceptical can be about modifying your resting on the wall to be done with engaged shoulders (as that link advocates). Ollie T was also advocating it when I discussed this with him, so I may be in a minority, but there's no way it's good on the rock (Ollie agreed on that) and I'm always highly sceptical about anything that makes you climb deliberately climb badly... what you do you become and all that.

[highrepute]

Session with Tim was again thought provoking and made me look up and think about shoulder engagement when climbing. This article is quite illuminating.

Whilst I fully agree with erm,sam about shoulder engagement being dead important for catching holds on big moves and not having to reengage etc., I'm about as sceptical as sceptical can be about modifying your resting on the wall to be done with engaged shoulders (as that link advocates). Ollie T was also advocating it when I discussed this with him, so I may be in a minority, but there's no way it's good on the rock (Ollie agreed on that) and I'm always highly sceptical about anything that makes you climb deliberately climb badly... what you do you become and all that.

I often experiment with this while shaking out (in training) and I'm less convinced that it's always bad.

[Murph]

Evening powder clubbers

Really enjoyed and valued the views everyone shared last week on the go hard or go easy discussion. Measles - I replied but never sent but thanks for the prompts about Beast Mode and DL. I can really believe that, if the weakest muscle in the body is in the brain, then that needs strengthening somehow.

But I digress...
M-kettlebells, superabs
T-training talk, went HARD on the motherboard, put my ego to one side and really went for it. Tops off and everything. Turns out there’s a 6A, a 6B and a 6C on the MB. Low hanging fruit? No! I gave those three problems about 45 minutes after a good warm up but they repelled my every advance. It was just like at the school disco where the ugliest girl in your class won’t dance with you, so you try the next ugliest, then the third, then you give up and then go and do 3 sets of +40kgs on the small beastmaker holds, some kettlebells and a 5k easy run.
W-left lat really hurt from motherboardgate. Kettlebells and superabs were fine to do tho.
T-7k easy run, MB rematch, a bit closer to one of them but...it’s just hard. Honestly, outside the only “new” 7A I tried this year took two goes (no bull) but the MB is a MF.
F-kettlebells, superabs, pull ups
S-kettlebells, superabs, 10k easy run
S-kettlebells, superabs, pull-ups, 10k threshold(black hole?) run round ladybower - 45 minutes quite pleased with that. There’s a chance I’m in 20 Minute 5k shape in a group (one of 2018 aims). Lat thing feeling a bit better. Not sure what it was.

65.2->64.5kgs pretty stable. Quite pleased with where that’s at.

[tommytwotone]

It was just like at the school disco where the ugliest girl in your class won’t dance with you, so you try the next ugliest, then the third, then you give up and then go and do 3 sets of +40kgs on the small beastmaker holds, some kettlebells and a 5k easy run.

I have seen tomtom deploy the same technique when out climbing somewhere - I believe we referred to it as the "nightclub 3am" approach to projecting.

[highrepute]

MB is a MF

I will hopefully be at the works on Thrusday can join you on the MFing MB! If you gonna be there?

[T_B]

What time do you head down James? I might b at the Works Thurs pm.

[Murph]

MB is a MF

I will hopefully be at the works on Thrusday can join you on the MFing MB! If you gonna be there?

Nice! The siege will take place between 6 & 8. Hopefully see you and maybe TB.

[tomtom]

It was just like at the school disco where the ugliest girl in your class won’t dance with you, so you try the next ugliest, then the third, then you give up and then go and do 3 sets of +40kgs on the small beastmaker holds, some kettlebells and a 5k easy run.

I have seen tomtom deploy the same technique when out climbing somewhere - I believe we referred to it as the "nightclub 3am" approach to projecting.

Absolutely!

[highrepute]

MB is a MF

I will hopefully be at the works on Thrusday can join you on the MFing MB! If you gonna be there?

Nice! The siege will take place between 6 & 8. Hopefully see you and maybe TB.

Aim for from about 7