S - Garage board 1.5hrs. Strongest session on this board ever I think. Did all hard problems. Broke hold on fingery project as I was pulling so hard on it!
Training talk, I’ve been reading up on studies that look at comparative effectiveness of polarized training for endurance athletes versus “threshold” type modalities. Reminded me that Tom Randall mentioned the “black hole of the middle” that is to be avoided. Think I’m going to more fully embrace this in both Climbing and running training. Basically, make most of it really easy but some of it really hard. Try to avoid the hard-but-not-too-hard middle ground. Pinkles + 40kg hangs might fit this pattern. Anyone seriously embraced or rejected this sort of thing in their training?
Quote from: Murph on March 05, 2018, 01:49:39 pmTraining talk, I’ve been reading up on studies that look at comparative effectiveness of polarized training for endurance athletes versus “threshold” type modalities. Reminded me that Tom Randall mentioned the “black hole of the middle” that is to be avoided. Think I’m going to more fully embrace this in both Climbing and running training. Basically, make most of it really easy but some of it really hard. Try to avoid the hard-but-not-too-hard middle ground. Pinkles + 40kg hangs might fit this pattern. Anyone seriously embraced or rejected this sort of thing in their training?Climbing is a skill sport. Climbing hard is not just about being strong and I would imagine your approach (though I have no idea what pinkles are but am assuming they are relatively easy problems at the Works) misses this vital aspect.
From talking anecdotally to some folk I get the impression climbers are doing more intensity on these modern training programmes than runners would be. Runners tend to do a lot of base work at really low aerobic intensity ('easy miles'), then specific workouts.
Galapinos - yep agreed about skill. I think that is maybe where the read across from energy systems gets a bit blurred. Doing easy problems well is still, I think, practicing some aspects of climbing that might be handy in the real world.
Of course, the ideal training really does depend on the goals. Sprinters almost certainly don’t go out doing 2hr jogs and that’s a more obvious crossover to bouldering...
T. Had a taster session with a coach - Tim C. Highlighted all manner of wonkiness including the tightest lats he'd ever come across. Felt glum about it especially the bit where he said that to properly address the issues I would have to cut down on climbing and climb worse to get better. Not sure I can sign up to that.Session with Tim was thought provoking. I am sceptical that the benefits are worth the sacrifice of going all out to correct muscular and postural inefficiencies especially as I am reasonably adept at keeping injury at bay. Will see him again Fri and work on a plan that isn't too disruptive and focuses on the worst aspects.In meantime I have been foam rolling body parts into submission.
Murph are these circuit problems at the wall ones you can flash quite easily? IMO this is the definition of ‘junk miles’ applied to climbing: you won’t really get the skill element out of them if you’re not trying hard enough to be under similar stress as you would be when trying hard, and you’re not a route climber so there’s no requirement to hit the easy aerocap/arc difficulty level. IMO wall sessions (actual climbing that is, for training rather than for fun) to be valuable should either be working hard problems (projecting, repeating limit problems) or focused on PE if you have a project where that is required (linked boulders/up down up/4x4/ on the minute etc.)
* not dissimilar from TurnipTurneds 12 problems routine on his board?? (my memory might be hazy on this..)
Sat - basket game.
Quote from: Nibile on March 05, 2018, 01:20:07 pm Sat - basket game. I swear every week Nibs makes up a random-but-plausible-sounding exercise to see if we're actually paying attention!
When Tom was talking about it (traingingbeta podcast?) I'm fairly sure it was in relation to Aerobic Capacity training. ......
In running (other endurance sports are available) it's a common protocol whereby you perform the majority of your AeroCap at around 60% of MHR with less work at around 85% of MHR. You'd also do Strength and perodically PE sessions to compliment this.
......Sounds like you're trying to apply this protocol to pure strength work?
Murph are these circuit problems at the wall ones you can flash quite easily? IMO this is the definition of ‘junk miles’ applied to climbing
Quote from: nai on March 05, 2018, 02:40:54 pmWhen Tom was talking about it (traingingbeta podcast?) I'm fairly sure it was in relation to Aerobic Capacity training. ......Re-listened last night. Yes you're quite right Nai, it was specifically around aerobic capacity work. (episode 38, 56:00 in)What he said was that he has found "split intensity" to work really well. Low intensity being 5 minutes continuously very easy, with 5 minutes rest. High intensity being e.g. 20 moves 1:45 on, 1:45 off something that could be done 3x if tried hard - getting "a little bit pumped" but no more.Wasted miles being a 40 move circuit that could be done 4 times in a row, shaking out, recovering and just getting through it at lactate threshold.
Quote from: Murph on March 06, 2018, 09:19:11 amQuote from: nai on March 05, 2018, 02:40:54 pmWhen Tom was talking about it (traingingbeta podcast?) I'm fairly sure it was in relation to Aerobic Capacity training. ......Re-listened last night. Yes you're quite right Nai, it was specifically around aerobic capacity work. (episode 38, 56:00 in)What he said was that he has found "split intensity" to work really well. Low intensity being 5 minutes continuously very easy, with 5 minutes rest. High intensity being e.g. 20 moves 1:45 on, 1:45 off something that could be done 3x if tried hard - getting "a little bit pumped" but no more.Wasted miles being a 40 move circuit that could be done 4 times in a row, shaking out, recovering and just getting through it at lactate threshold.Remember those number were for a boulderer wishing to do a specific long boulder (20ish moves iirc) problem on a trip, if you're after doing a 40m route that amount of endurance work might get you to bolt three
I don't know. If I was to say what pinkles + max hangs really means I'd say it was a really good warm up before a max hang session. I can't believe the pinkles are less than useless and they aren't hard to recover from. It normally takes 15-20 minutes to warm up for a max hang session anyway.
Quote from: tommytwotone on March 06, 2018, 08:58:11 amQuote from: Nibile on March 05, 2018, 01:20:07 pm Sat - basket game. I swear every week Nibs makes up a random-but-plausible-sounding exercise to see if we're actually paying attention!I'm waiting for pro celebrity big game fishing to come up...
I quite like teestub's term "junk miles". It seems appropriate!
I use the time to practice movement skills, I'll be mindful to have shoulders engaged, hips in and do a series of cross throughs, cross feet, climbing sideways using outside edges, do sticky hands/feet, I'll use unecessary Egyptians and heels to take weight off arms and be hanging around on aretes trying to contrive heel-toes and shift weight so I can get hands-off. It really does all help when you're out on rock.
Nai, would you agree that whilst Aerocap work is important for those trying to develop fitness, it would be almost a complete waste of time (or at least a very low priority) for a time-short boulderer?On the wider topic of the previous page's discussions, where I can see some sense in using aerobic activity training theory for the fitness side of long routes, trying to use that theory as any basis for training for bouldering would seem to be completely flawed. You wouldn't try and increase your deadlift by spending 80% of your time doing 50 reps at 10kg...
Nai, would you agree that whilst Aerocap work is important for those trying to develop fitness, it would be almost a complete waste of time (or at least a very low priority) for a time-short boulderer?
but maybe need to try hard to get to the top of the motherboard one day. Surely it's possible.
I think Lattice might still prescribe it for boulders.
Oh sorry! I didn't know it. Yes, basketball.
We never abbreviate it
b-ball
Achilles feels better too, so am going to try to reintroduce some more running.
Galapinos & Duncan - great point...Trying really hard is certainly a massively important skill.
Good share Duncan. And thanks Robbie. The weakest muscle is in the mind. Been thinking (and acting on it) a fair bit about it since this weeks good discussion. Also saw this one today from the no more mystery thread, which is a different take on trying hard...trying hard or the day my knee gave up