[tomtom]

Salamu marafiki!

M: Depot - had been out on the Sunday so a bit of a slow session, but decided to focus on repeating problems I could only just do previously.. (5-6 purples). Felt goosed.

We: Anston. Blind Bat success. Last Stand & Beretta non (I did warm up on Beretta before getting fed up with it...). Superb - felt really good - the long first move felt well within range compared to previously





Fr: Gib Torr. Zero degrees - superb conditions. Failed on The Fin, the Fin SS and The Fink.. dull video of failure below



Sa & Sun Work all day sat - family stuff sun. Missing out on A1 Mint Superb Grit connies. But a few holes in my RH from Friday Anyway had doms in my arms and biceps = Ace

[shark]

11.0--2 (Average 155.4lb down 0.9lb on last week)

M.

T. Noon. Tor with Nick. Met midday to allow crag to dry a bit. Nick got Ring of Fire and I managed to get through to the first kneebar on Bens for the first ever \o/ We both had a go at the next few moves but struggled. Foundry  Headed down to do some aerocap but surprisingly found I was still fresh enough to boulder. Managed to do black right of centre in steep section but struggled on crux of wasp in same place. Toby said I was stronger than last year which was good to hear

W.

T. Tor with Nick again. 2 degrees cloudy windless. Worked on middle section of Bens. Managed first kneebar rest to next kneebar at pod. Great progress. Top roped Tin Of twice clean. Word out on FB that Malham was nearly dry.

F. 

S.  Malham first time this year Blue skies. Balmy then Baltic in shade.Up with strong youth Buster Martin. Fell off Consenting first time up – forgot sequence! – good job no one was looking. Then did it 2x in a row.. Oak glassy and still hard. First go did it in sections then concentrated on climbing from bolt 2 to horn Go 2 touched it twice. Go 3 touched it three times – felt more fluid with each attempt Go 4 too bolloxed. Hard to gauge performance with conditions but reasonably happy 

S.

Psyche restored. Tor trip tomorrow. Hopefully get back to Malham on weds and sat.

[duncan]

Tom, shouldn't it be Power Club* this week?

STG - Manage the aches and pains. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - V4 at the Westway by end March. 7b in Siurana / Arboli in March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long free route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before.

M - Stretches. Shoulder strengthening.
T - Stretches. Fingerboard pick-ups R. to 40kg. L to 25kg.
W - Stretches.
T - Westway routes with Lois Lane. Mainly a social visit but onsighted two 6cs.
F - Shoulder strengthening. 
S - Stretches. 
S - Stretches. 

Decent week before Friday, elbow recovering, onsighting 6c at the Westway usually translates into somewhat harder on rock. Finally succumbed to a cold having done well to avoid one all winter so far. Gutted at having to sack off what was obviously going to be a glorious day on Saturday. UCU strike means I can potentially look forward to some midweek climbing in the next couple of weeks then it’s off to Spain.

Plan: get over cold. Vertical bouldering. A couple of long PE days, indoors or out.

*Norwegian for Power Club


.

[jwi]

*Norwegian for Power Club

That would be “Styrkeklubben”, surely?

[tomtom]

*Norwegian for Power Club

That would be “Styrkeklubben”, surely?

Sorry - not been keeping up with the Winter Olympics. Went Swahili instead nice to mix up the continents...

[Murph]

Thanks Tom. Good work at anston. Looks a cool place.
Shark - good to hear the psyche is back!
Get well soon Duncan.

My week was one of them:
Mon-felt a bit sub par, long day at work, 20k cycle commute, took it easy on the kettlebells.
Tue-not right at all. Took a very early shower.
Wed-Sat
Sun-normally I wouldn’t report housework and a 30 minute walk on power club but it’s an improvement on where I was yesterday!

64.6->62.5kgs. Now that is not healthy slimming! Hopefully most of it is food and water weight though, rather than finger tendon bulk, and should soon come back.

I’ll be taking it steady this next week with easy climbs, kettlebells and runs. Hope to return to normal service the week after.

[nai]

Do take it steady, Murph. Some nasty bugs going around lingering for a while and returning just as bad when you seemed to be on they mend, 2 weeks is pretty common and I think Dolly was laid up for 3+ weeks

[nai]

coming week
3rd week of block before a rest week.

coming month
think about going outside

season goals
Redpoint 8a
OS E4 consistently, do an E5
OS 7b

M - AnCap, started at last. Failed late in last 3 reps so about the right intensity

T - 45 mins of hip/leg mobility & stretches

W -
AM - LI AeroCap
Eve Max hangs   
intended to do these the other way around but I couldn't get going quickly enough for max hangs at 8am.

Th - Anston, didn't warm up beforehand as I normally would but the short sessions yesterday meant I got going quite quickly. Felt good on the Last Stand crux straight away, dunno what I was doing differently to the previous four sessions but it went down second attempt from the floor.  Moved onto Fine Art and after a while struggling to do the first move I started to get that more consistently and opted to drop the last move a couple of times instead.  W/C/Should have done it but ran out of steam.  Decided to have a quick beta-mining burn on Colt to see if an idea I'd dreamt up would work, it didn't but I found something that did. There was no way I was going to link it at that point though, but all the moves done at last. Next time......

F broken, picked up a copy of Peak Lime South and got Syked.

S - had to take kids swimming in the morning, did about 20 lengths randomly over an hour to keep warm.
PM - HI AeroCap - 1 minute reps - skin like glass after the pool.  Odd, probably been doing this circuit for 2 years but was for some reason climbing it 10s faster than normal, had to add extra moves on to make the time up. Need to swim more obviously....

S - Max hangs around lunchtime
PM - dashed out to Mother Cap Quarry to try PNC, 45 minutes from arriving in car park to leaving again, skin can't take any more of those holds. Did it in two but unable to do the 3rd move after the first two, can't get my fingers set on the hold well enough when not pulling on at that hold. Frustrating.

Decent week (especially as it was half term) apart from the max hangs which I'm stagnant on.

[Coops_13]

M:
T: Beastmaker 5B workout, I think this is the right intensity for me. Swapped middle 2 for hanging the lowest crimp edge on the BM 1000. Then did a load of antagonist/core, mega DOMS the next couple of days
W:
T: Beastmaker 5B workout, bit weaker from Tuesday I think. Then I got on the moonboard and did a load of easy climbs, down-climbing the last couple of moves to drop off. 15 6B+s. Last one too tired so dropped off and pranged heel 
F:
S: Moonboard for the whole session, working my way through a load of the easier benchmarks (some were hard). Found an ingenious way to look after the heel - mates pushed box jump boxes underneath me when I got to the top so I could step off, worked a treat! 3 6B+, 5 6C, 4 6C+
S:

[tommytwotone]

Do take it steady, Murph. Some nasty bugs going around lingering for a while and returning just as bad when you seemed to be on they mend, 2 weeks is pretty common and I think Dolly was laid up for 3+ weeks

I was going to put the same thing - I copped the flu that's going round and it started just as you describe. I then had a week in bed, followed by a week of being off work totally wiped out. I'm a month down the line and only just really feeling better.

Anyway, my week was pretty uneventful...

M - Physio on (still) knackered shoulder, which seems worse after aforementioned illness
T - Tried trip to wall, ostensibly to drop off UKB Freecycle item - managed about an hour of pottering on V2 max
W - woke up sore, did nowt
T - nowt
F - nowt
S - top connies day, so took the opportunity to get the battery in Fiona's car replaced. Smashed it onsight.
S - top connies day. Great circuit of cleaning the bathroom, and hoovering all the upstairs.

[yetix]

STG: Rock Atrocity. Just going to keep working it until it goes
MTG: Paint It Black + Suavito
LTG: 8A

62.3kg


M: Yoga
T: Yoga
W: Rockover. 1 arm hangs 3/6/9secondsx5. Bench press 4x8. Deadlift 5x5 Shoulder Press 4x8
T: Yoga
F: Session at Awesome Walls working on movement. Yoga
S: Rest
S: Parisella's cave working rock atrocity.

[Coops_13]

STG: Rock Atrocity. Just going to keep working it until it goes

I may be heading to N Wales this weekend so may see you there!

[GazM]

I seem to have had a similar kind of week to some of you:

Mon: 
Tues: 
Weds: 
Thurs: 
Fri: 
Sat: 
Sun:  Managed a gentle walk with the dog.  Hooray!

What a crock of  .  I guess things can only really improve this week...

[highrepute]

Managed first kneebar rest to next kneebar at pod. Great progress.

Where's this first knee bar?

[duncan]

*Norwegian for Power Club

That would be “Styrkeklubben”, surely?

Ah crap! Of course it is. Don’t believe google. And me with local relatives too.

To everyone    rest early and recover faster.

[Nibile]

Power Club
19-25 feb

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1, first week of fourth cycle. Switched to program 1. 65x11 last set. Was very tired and short on time but managed it. Could have probably sneaked in another rep.
Thu - climbing class. Climbed one problem.
Fri -  snatch pulls, a few one arm hangs, boxing bag.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - a few snatches and bodyweight work with friends. Mega fun.

Quite pleased about the one arm hangs progression. Found out that for LH it was - again - a shoulder and rotation issue: did a few hangs on 1,5 cm blocking the rotation and it was fine! Managed a 3/4" hang on 1 cm with RH taking 5 kg off.

[T_B]

M - Wave - oh dear. Terrible session. Knackered, felt like a sack of spuds.
T - Furnace. Felt much more sprightly than yesterday. Still felt heavy but not knackered and at least had some power. PM on BSMA with Mrs T_B. I did a few small links and felt kinda reasonable.
W -
T - PM Remergence, trying Blind Ali's Date. Did BD first go. Took ages to get knee bar sorted on BA, only had one decent link going for the l-hand slot on BD.
F - Autobelays - 5 routes. Bit pointless
S - 1 hour garage board. Felt reasonably good.
S - AM Remergence, felt way better on Blind Ali with no knee bar issues. Got onto BD 4 or 5 times, best go had the lip and couldn't get right foot up.

3 times on rock this wk! Doubly chuffed as managed to maintain running mileage as well.
Eating well, lost a kilo this wk.
V close to BAD but struggled a bit with thin skin/numbing out and lack of AnCap.

[yetix]

STG: Rock Atrocity. Just going to keep working it until it goes

I may be heading to N Wales this weekend so may see you there!

Let me know if you're heading across, I'll likely be suffering there again all weekend!

[csl]

Total failures all round for February, work has been very hectic. Have handed my notice in but have another 6 weeks till I leave. Have a few trips planned so keen to knuckle down in March 

february

• 5 Greens (v6-8) at The Arch - total fail, haven't been focused and haven't tried many
• 2 days on rock - 1/2, annoying to only get one unproductive day out
• 7.5 seconds strict half crimp on max hangs - total fail, no consistent max hangs

this year

7C
hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: ~ 73.5 - 74kg
Injuries: all feeling ok!

12th-18th

1 session trying various green V6-8 problems, came close(ish) on one
1 session on moonboard, 11 benchmark 6B+'s. 9 to go!

19th-25th

1 unfocused session doing various problems
1 session on the moonboard, mainly trying For Hoony 7B+, done most of the moves but find it hard!
1 session of stretching

march

- 4 days out
- 2 Greens at The Arch
- stretching at least 2x a week

coming week

- 3 sessions. 1 moonboard, 2 bouldering
- stretching x2
- try and sneak a day outside on saturday

[tomtom]

Managed first kneebar rest to next kneebar at pod. Great progress.

Where's this first knee bar?

Just after the first move

[shark]

Managed first kneebar rest to next kneebar at pod. Great progress.

Where's this first knee bar?

Not sure if you are taking the piss but first is at 21 secs and second at 36 secs

[T_B]

Wow, never seen anyone use that second knee bar. No wonder they've downgraded it to 7b+!

[highrepute]

Managed first kneebar rest to next kneebar at pod. Great progress.

Where's this first knee bar?

Not sure if you are taking the piss but first is at 21 secs and second at 36 secs

Huh! wasn't joking. Never seen that second knee bar before either! Looks handy, that's one of the harder moves.

[shark]

Wow, never seen anyone use that second knee bar. No wonder they've downgraded it to 7b+!

Who are they?

[measles23]

Half term but managed to be on call all week with several all nighters..

70kg -> 69.4kg

Finger still screwed after doing comp circuit last week..

M- nul
T - nul
W- Gym DL wonderful stolen session: 11 sets including 5 singles at 5 plates (220) - this has always been a hard lift for me, but today felt steady - first one went up fast, and none were grinders.. could have done more but ran out of time.. special session; felt some real passion for it..
T- went out with boy but session fail as I keep forgetting that actually Cottage Rocks isn’t a nice easy beginners spot for 8yo’s 
F- pigs have been sacrificed so trying to figure out what to do with 60kg of burgers, sausages and joints..
S- nul
S- Stoke AW; spotted for Alison - did random one armers on jugs, managed for once to have the self restraint not to climb..

[Yossarian]

Sorry to hear about assorted ailment suffering.

STG - Thin down, press on with sandstone (re)apprenticeship
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - 8a, etc

Mon - Beastmaker - 1st session in a while. Didn’t go crazy.
Tues -  Statham megamix
Wed - Beastmaker - figuring out a plan. Need scales for repeaters until I get a bit thinner.
Thursday - Eridge Green. Pretty great conditions for this time of year. Thought I was going to cruise Parisian Affair (F6A+), but that turned into a nightmare. Had a play on Patience (F7A+) which felt bizarrely more likely. A fine project for the next few weeks.
Friday - Harrison’s. Beautiful afternoon. Pottering / soloing. Got quite scared doing the latter thanks to reacquaintance with sandy footholds. Tried A Killing Joke (F6C+) - felt unlikely at the moment, but another project for the spring.
Saturday - Chimera. Not been for a fortnight, and was pleased to discover all various projects felt somewhat easier. Made up some new things on the 45 board. Delighted to hear the place is expanding later in the year with a much bigger training area. Yay.
Sunday - Walk with the family. Three year old decided the castle was rubbish and ventured off on his own back to the car park. Some running, before giving him a bollocking. Happily, my injured Achilles feels much better.

Weight: 98.8kg - 97.3kg

Pretty syked currently. Enjoyed getting out on rock and figuring out how to fit it into midweek schedule. Seems much more sensible to concentrate on things on the doorstep, rather than pine for distant crags that I’m not going to visit any time soon. Also, previous experience shows that everything else feels (relatively) easy after prolonged periods of crap sandy footholds. Weight loss has not been as rapid as originally hoped, but not being particularly restrictive in terms of diet (still doing IF though) and no real cardio thanks to running injury, and it’s still going down so quite happy with that.

[petekitso]

Yossarian - in lieu of a southern sandstone conditions thread - was Eridge generally in OK nick last week or did you have to be selective?

I have made a similar resolution to make better use of the local rock but had assumed there would be nothing doing for another few weeks yet . . .

[Yossarian]

It looked great, but there was a fair amount of dampness around. Not that much totally dry from bottom to top. I might pop back in the next few days, depending on the weather...

[tomtom]

It looked great, but there was a fair amount of dampness around. Not that much totally dry from bottom to top. I might pop back in the next few days, depending on the weather...

How is Stone farm faring nowadays? Used to go there back in the early 90's...

[Yossarian]

It’s still a lovely spot. I’ve never explored it very thoroughly, but the best-known problems like Stinging Nettle look pretty good.

[Coops_13]

It’s still a lovely spot. I’ve never explored it very thoroughly, but the best-known problems like Stinging Nettle look pretty good.

Stinging Nettle is mint, v un-Southern Sandstone-like. The 7A+ variation is harddd.

[Yossarian]

I had brief go last summer but it was beyond me at the time. Probably still is. Keen to go for another look, but the snow has arrived down here so imagine it’ll be a while till things dry out again.

I’m impressed by the newer things at Eridge. Patience looks like a really fine problem, Hypersonic too. And Judamondo as a problem for the longer term.

[measles23]

How is Stone farm faring nowadays? Used to go there back in the early 90's...

I remember in the same era my mate and I did a midwinter day trip down from St Andrews to climb at Stone Farm; while the rest of the uni club were freezing their asses off stuck in snowdrifts up in the highlands we had a mint day of perfect connies in t-shirts... fond memories

[petekitso]

Thanks - I should be more optimistic in future (once the snow has gone).

Stone Farm is my local crag - it’s a great spot and some of the routes are pretty good but I think the bouldering is limited, certainly compared to Eridge.

Having said that, I am limited because of being a nervous soloer (and because I still can’t do stinging nettle . . .)

[Yossarian]

I was pretty nervous soloing at Harrison’s. Even if you know the route (and my memory is generally hazy) all it takes is a slopey jug full of wet sand and things rapidly become scary.

[T_B]

Wow, never seen anyone use that second knee bar. No wonder they've downgraded it to 7b+!

Who are they?

I thought it got downgraded in the new BMC guide?

[shark]

Wow, never seen anyone use that second knee bar. No wonder they've downgraded it to 7b+!

Who are they?

I thought it got downgraded in the new BMC guide?

It did - from 7C+ to 7C.

Mention is given to it still being 7C+ without the kneebar.

   

.