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Ancap falling off a cliff (Read 2977 times)

petejh

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Ancap falling off a cliff
February 19, 2018, 08:40:15 pm
short story.. I've been training ancap on the latticeboardtm for about the last 8 weeks; I do 10 moves on the resin crimp/dishes, 5 secs rest, repeat, 15 secs rest, repeat. x 6. it's one of the workouts recommended by latticetrainingtm

Was progressing nicely, starting to complete most sets and failing right at the end. Then without warning I dropped off a performance cliff edge for two weeks/ 4 sessions - couldn't even do a complete first set for 4 sessions in a row - couldn't even hold my feet on the rungs, total lack of all contact strength and body tension like I've never experienced. No lack of sleep or other obvious factors I can think off. Anyway, all back to normal during today's sesh, where I smashed the fuck out of it again and felt like a razor (and was on FA of a new winter grade IX 9 in the meantime so can hardly complain at lack of form YYFY). But just wondered if anyone else had experienced such a dramatic drop-off, midway through a period of training ancap and whether it might be indicative of .. anything?

Ru

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#1 Re: Ancap falling off a cliff
February 19, 2018, 08:45:57 pm
Yeah. Sometimes it's had a likely cause - stressful work, poor sleep/diet for a few days - but sometimes not.

Oldmanmatt

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#2 Re: Ancap falling off a cliff
February 19, 2018, 10:52:40 pm
A.n.other virus, most likely.
Had a long chat with Father-in-law (GP) about this earlier this year; when I was race training and he got me to plot when other family members were down with “something” and there were significant correlations to my own poor sessions. Just because you appear asymptomatic, doesn’t mean you are.

tomtom

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#3 Re: Ancap falling off a cliff
February 20, 2018, 06:47:19 am
A.n.other virus, most likely.
Had a long chat with Father-in-law (GP) about this earlier this year; when I was race training and he got me to plot when other family members were down with “something” and there were significant correlations to my own poor sessions. Just because you appear asymptomatic, doesn’t mean you are.

Fuck me, this is the golden gift from above of climbing excuses!

petejh

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#4 Re: Ancap falling off a cliff
February 20, 2018, 12:35:24 pm
I kinda buy the background virus idea.. currently down with cold/virus thing since end of last week which came on after two hard (for me) days back-to-back in the hills, so perhaps it was there all along..

Great excuse anyway as TT says!

I wondered if it might have been a sign of over-training as that's how it felt, but I wasn't doing a lot except the ancap (hard), aerocap (not hard) and one max hang fingerboard per week. So not really pushing it.

Paul B

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#5 Re: Ancap falling off a cliff
February 20, 2018, 05:04:59 pm
When I was fairly new to this kind of training I had a spell of fairly intense AnCap campussing; I did this too often (I can't quite remember but approaching 3No./week; 1-3-5...9-7-5....etc., up-down-up-down either 8 times per session or 3 blocks of 4) and after a few weeks, with plenty of other training I was in utter pieces (I worked at the wall or at one of its ancillary businesses).

I've been perhaps managing sessions of this intensity 3 times in two weeks recently (which when speaking to a local wad seemed similar to his approach). However, total volume is also currently reduced more through necessity than choice.

How often are you doing it and what's the Lattice recommendation (although I'm assuming the latter is specific to the person)?

There seem to be a lot of people at work really suffering from various cold/flu type things this winter.

Out of interest, how pumped do you get when you try and do anything longer (let's say 25-30mv at whatever your target grade is)? I've just finished my block of AeroCap/AnCap and I'm getting wildly pumped. I'm hoping it's not because I've neglected the Aero too much.

petejh

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#6 Re: Ancap falling off a cliff
February 20, 2018, 07:06:28 pm
Regards getting pumped I haven't climbed anything not requiring ice-axes since last year so I can't comment on rock. But I'm being careful to do an aerocap session afterwards every time I do my ancap sesh, and also winter climbing and drytooling 30m new routes is working my aerocap.

I made the mistake of neglecting aerocap last year while doing a lot of ancap - k'in ell I've never been so pumped!! Had to hang my way up a 7a at the diamond that I usually use as a warm-up. So I learned that lesson. (it seemed to quickly resolve once I hammered a bit of aerocap).

I'm easily pootling around the latticeboard for multiple laps, say for e.g. 50 moves (not at all trying to max them out, I expect I can do 100-ish max) without pump at the moment, so I think I've got it about right. I'll know when I test myself later in spring.

I'm doing one or two ancap sessions per week depending on other climbing (which hasn't been much tbh). For the last 8 weeks. The workout is just one of the lattice training posters on hte wall at boardroom, but it's defo a good one - better i think then the foot-on campus I was doing for ancap last year as it doesn't trash the skin so much.





Paul B

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#7 Re: Ancap falling off a cliff
February 20, 2018, 10:05:55 pm
Cheers for the reply.

I haven't been near a Lattice board to either test or read the posters!

 

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