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Энергетический клуб 416 12th Feb - 18th Feb (Read 9337 times)

tomtom

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Здравствуйте!

Mon: Went to Anston for the first time - met up with Nai. Good session - I climbed shit, but enjoyed having a look around the place. Special failure mentions to the problems Blind Bat (thats a long first move for 7A!) and the one just to the right...

Weds: A day to climb! Was already over Manc side and tried to get out before the snow/rain came in. Dashed down to Gib Tor - was too windy - pads wouldn't stay on the ground and it was brutally cold in the wind. Drove back and went to the Depot. Climbed really poorly, clock watched and left after an hour...

Fri: Gib Tor again, First new 7 of the season \o/ and a good one!



Sun: Baby was poorly all weekend - but managed to sneak out for a couple of hours to a dampish Browstones. Got stuck into Lifeline (the worlds hardest V4) and the SS.

Coops_13

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M-W: Rest
T: Arch. Weak session trying a bit of everything. Climbed problems, landing more on one leg. Fell off a couple of high ones which hurt the bruised heel. Left hobbling with a dodgy right knee. F-board and campussing for me it is then...
F:
S: Did Beastmaker 5A session on f-board as haven't really fingerboarded before. Then some campussing:
1-4 weight lower arm for 10s
1-4-4-7
1-4-5-8
1-3-6-8 fail to 8
1-4-6-9 fail to 9
1-4-7 fail to 7
S: Calisthenics park in Primrose Hill with the GF. Did a LOT of pull-ups/muscle-ups etc. Sore elbows at the end

Heel improving v slowly, hopefully will be back to proper climbing in a couple of weeks

Nibile

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Spasiba tovarisch Tom.
Power Club

Mon - lunchtime: ab wheel +8 kg, snatch pulls 5x5x2 emom 30". Various farmer's walks with dumbbells. Nice session.
Tue - rest. Doms, d'oh!
Wed - cleans 5-3-1 fourth week of third cycle, deload.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri -  core complex x5, absolutely brutal.
Sat - various hangs: circuit of 10" on Lattice edge, 1,5 cm edge, 1 cm edge, 0,5 cm edge x3. Then some hangs on 0,5 cm edge. Then some tests on 1 cm edge one armed: solid 6" hang with 10 kg off. Boxing bag.
Sun - system static full/half crimp 4x5. Various regular hangs. 1 cm one arm tests. Farmer's walk 120 kg x1. Hip hinge 100 kg 8x2.

Good week. Fingers not bad at all.

duncan

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Tom: thank you! I couldn’t think of a suitably witty follow-up to 파워 클럽. Well done on Stall, that's a good one.


S: Did Beastmaker 5A session on f-board as haven't really fingerboarded before. Then some campussing:
1-4 weight lower arm for 10s
1-4-4-7
1-4-5-8
1-3-6-8 fail to 8
1-4-6-9 fail to 9
1-4-7 fail to 7
S: Calisthenics park in Primrose Hill with the GF. Did a LOT of pull-ups/muscle-ups etc. Sore elbows at the end

You may want to reflect on this! I did an older man's version last week with the same outcome. It's extremely tempting to overdo it especially when you can't climb. Some useful points made on Fit Club 596 on this topic: several suggested a full day or more rest after strength work, at least until you're well conditioned and have adjusted to multiple days on. AMorris made the same point.

 
STG - Manage the aches and pains. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - Steep Vertical V4 at the Westway by mid end March. 7b in Siurana / Arboli in March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long free route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before.

M - Stretches.
T - Stretches. R. fingerboard pick-ups to 35kg.
W - Somerset with family. Stretches.
T - Somerset with family.
F - Stretches.
S - Stretches. Shoulder strengthening. R. fingerboard ‘pick-ups’ to 38kg.
S - Westway with the lad. Tiny bit of slabby bouldering to ‘V2’. Stretches.

Elbow recovering but need to be patient for a week or two more. ‘Pick-ups’ are not very specific but it’s good to do something to stress the fingers as they also recover.

Plan: cautiously reintroduce the shoulder strengthening exercises (gripping a bar is not trivial for the ‘tennis’ elbow). Continue with fingerboard pick-ups. Slabby bouldering.
« Last Edit: February 19, 2018, 09:06:04 am by duncan »

nai

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coming week
fit what I can in around half-term "fun"

coming month
still need to start AnCap, have a nice burly circuit all ready to go at, need to stop going actual climbing

season goals
Redpoint an 8a again, didnt manage one last year.  Plenty to go at, have around five as WIPs and still to get on Powerplant
OS E4 consistently, do an E5
OS 7b

M -
AM - A delayed start due to school opening late because of snow, met TT at Anston, managed to weed out micro progress on Last Stand and Colt and might have done Fine Art if I hadn't kept blowing the start move.

T - LI AeroCap 3x16mins (forgot it was half term elsewhere so mini works full of hyper kids whizzing around the place)
conditioning stuff

W - On a whim speed out to Anston ahead of the rain not liking the look of Thursday's forecast.  Warmed up sussing the top of Apprentice Prow then tried the start but couldn't trick it into an easy submission.  Did Apprentice Wall second go after fluffing the OS.  Definitely a class A problem.  Went basic on the start of Prow and got the move after a few goes and the whole thing a few tries later.   Good but not the same quality, easy middle section leaves it a bit disjointed
Max hangs back home

Th rest

F - Rowtor. Tried Yoghurt Hypnotist and Blood Falls, didn't do the last move on either which was a bit of a downer.

HI AeroCap back home

S - conditioning

S - Garage warmup, board a bit smeggy so went  to Baslow, did Truffle Pig easily enough after a bit of faffing to find the sequence. Not the greatest problem but good to finish the week on a high.
Max hangs back home


Yossarian

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Slim down / improve flexibility / sort out training:recovery balance / get down to Dorset for some trad and sport
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - tbc

Mon - Wall. Quite busy with half term / kids, etc. Not terribly focused, but did some stuff on the 45 that I was quite pleased with.
Tues -  Kettlebell / dumbbell / bodyweight Jason Statham megamix
Wed - Routes at White Spider with daughter. 4 hours. She did the lions share of the climbing though. Managed to get up a few 6cs on autobelay, but feeling quite heavy still.
Thursday -  Kettlebell / dumbbell / bodyweight Jason Statham megamix
Friday / Sat - Off
Sunday - Totally syked for Portland. Left in glorious sunshine. Arrived in cold, windly rainy murk. Managed to climb one F4 at Godnor in the rain, hands were numb at the top. Ate excellent sandwiches. Went for walk and then drove home. Not the most auspicious start to Project 8a 2018...

Weight: 98.3kg - 98.8kg - partly blaming this on half term and snacking with the kids

Lots of work stress - under pressure to finish a book in the next fortnight. Achilles still painful so no running. Was really looking forward to getting on some routes at Portland - remembered that this is not the correct mindset for south coast climbing in February. Assume weather is going to be shit, then any climbing is a positive. Have moved Beastmaker into my study, so fingerboarding can commence in earnest. 

tomtom

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Have moved Beastmaker into my study, so fingerboarding can commence in earnest.

I think having it somewhere more prominent makes it (a) easier to use more often and (b) a visual nag for when you are not training :D

Mine was in the front room until it came off with a load of plaster (which made me unsurprisingly unpopular)

T_B

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M- Wave being re-set, so furnace board. Feeling burlier on the u/cut and pinch problems. Need to work out an Ancappy problem.
T - Wave being re-set, so furnace board. Felt good.
W -
T - PM lamp session @ Secret Garden with Dave. Cold obvs, but no wind. Felt like I was learning to climb again, though scraped my way up 3 x 7as inc Beach Ball which I don't think I've ever done. Worked out all the moves on L-hand man after some time not being sure how to do the start.. but didn't do it.
F -
S -
S -

Light week in climbing terms, though felt well knackered after Thurs pm bouldering in the cold. First time ont grit since Oct.

yetix

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STG: Get back into training
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

62.1kg


M: Rockover. 1 arm hangs 3/6/9secondsx4 (felt tired and weak so didn't complete my final set). Bench press 4x8. Deadlift 5x5 Shoulder Press 4x8
T: Yoga
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Parisella's cave working rock atrocity.
S: Parisella's cave working rock atrocity. managed to break it into two overlapping halves the first falling off coming into the 3rd drilled slot and the second starting matched on the flake. Hopefully this will go soon)
Also did some fingerboarding 3x3/6/9 and Yoga


measles23

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Доброе утро

Mine was in the front room until it came off with a load of plaster (which made me unsurprisingly unpopular)

My Metolius did this and landed on my head = ouch

M - nul
T - Strength asylum: DL 12 sets - 235 barely budged off 1” blocks, compensated with a session best of 5 singles at 215 - aiming to consolidate by doing something similar with 5 plates (220) before really pushing for PB again..
5 sets per side single 1 armers, again good quality, great depth
Few sets on leg adduction machine
W- nul
T- Strength asylum for secondary DL session; went conventional for the first time in ages: 7 sets up to single at 210 = PB and first time 3BW with conventional..
F- nul
S- nul - up til early hours operating
S- Stoke AW 2hrs comp circuit - climbed well but had last moveitis- thought I’d protected fucked finger by taping-the-fuck-up but fail as it’s screwed today  >:(

Will Hunt

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Thu - climbing class.

This conjures an image of a group of old ladies in a dance studio doing gentle climbing themed aerobic exercises, while a topless, sweating Nibs is somewhere at the back, screaming his way through one last rep on the campus board.

Murph

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Энергетический клуб
.......
Fri: Gib Tor again, First new 7 of the season \o/ and a good one!

This week’s title had me proper laughing. Thanks for the chuckles Tom! And good bloody work on THAT arête. Don’t think I’ll be making use of your beta tho...

Доброе утро

T- Strength asylum for secondary DL session; went conventional for the first time in ages: 7 sets up to single at 210 = PB and first time 3BW with conventional..

Good work mate! It’s good to have a secondary hobby while finger fuckery persists.

Coops - like Duncan says take it easy man! Interested whether you managed to flash the 5A though. Is it still three “laps” of about 8x7s hangs? I find it pumpy as heck.

W - On a whim speed out to Anston ahead of the rain not liking the look of Thursday's forecast.  Warmed up sussing the top of Apprentice Prow then tried the start but couldn't trick it into an easy submission.  Did Apprentice Wall second go after fluffing the OS.  Definitely a class A problem.  Went basic on the start of Prow and got the move after a few goes and the whole thing a few tries later.   Good but not the same quality, easy middle section leaves it a bit disjointed
Max hangs back home
.....
Max hangs back home

Is Anston’s worth it? And in condition? Beginners wall is soaked and I fancy getting my teeth into something dependable while I have some form. (Which reminds me I still need to tick Piss as well!)

Good to hear you’re getting max hangs back in again. You know it makes sense :)

Nibile

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Thu - climbing class.

This conjures an image of a group of old ladies in a dance studio doing gentle climbing themed aerobic exercises, while a topless, sweating Nibs is somewhere at the back, screaming his way through one last rep on the campus board.
Unfortunately it's not like you think. And I refer mostly to the current state of my left elbow, that despite improvements, still refuses to obey my commands. I wish I could touch the campusboard.
In reality, I have a small class of dedicate climbers, that I torture for one hour and a half with system excercises, foot on campusing and silly sequences on the wall. Last Thursday I even got them through a final Burpees Tabata.
They thought they knew fatigue before meeting me... Ha!

shark

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11.1-3 (Average 156.3lb down 0.1lb on last week)

M. Foundry. Comp on so messed around in training area on lattice edge, undercuts on board and campus. Paul there and had a go at hanging shrugs - right ok but scarcely move on wonky left. Yet another thing to worry about. Autobelay AeroCap to finish

T. Back to Foundry to try new L2s. Did about 7; 5 of them flashed

W.

T. Out to Tor. Blue skies, some patches snow, cold wind. Met Nick at Tor and Steve joined later. Bit drippy On Ben's. Nearly did link to kneebar. At end did final couple of moves 4x on trot so hopeful that I should do the link to kneebar next session at least once. Im aware I've thought that after a few sessions now.

F.  Early meet at Tor. Ring of Fire wet which scuppered Nick's plqns so we decamped to Secret Garden. Lovely day. Tried Dick Williams top section but despite extensive beta notes from last winter didn't even manage that. Wore out my right forefinger . Nick however pulled it out of the bag for his first 7B+ and in a session too. Officially overtaken me. Bound to happen at some point but still hurts

S. Had half of Bristol Uni CC staying over

S. Ended up back at Secret Garden with Ben and one of his uni mates, Tom. Conditions grey and meh much like me = meh squared. Repeatedly failed to do move off boulder and starting move on DW. Useless

Disjointed week. Generally lost momentum. Psyche low. Weighed in disappointingly high at 158.0 last Monday morning so tried fasting and held out till 5pm which had desired effected as Tues am weighed in at 155.8. Tried the same on Tuesday and held out till 3pm. Weigh in this morning (Sun) was 155.8 so tried the same today so might get into sub11 magic zone in tomorrow morning’s weigh in.

Had toyed with a 5 day sun rock trip with Nick this week but flights not that great so going to make most of better weather that’s forecast here instead. Hope I get some positives to pick me back up again.   

Murph

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Have to say I am loving Power Club (sorry, Энергетический клуб) at the minute.

M-kettlebells 24/16kgs, 5 minute dishes.
T-easy works circuit, max hangs up to 3x10s at +40kgs on BM1K small holds, 5 minute dishes, 5k run.
W-20k cycle commute, 24/16kg kettlebells, 5 minute dishes.
T-20k cycle commute, 7.6k run.
F-Robin Hoods Stride family bouldering day. Mostly a potter but was allowed to go and try Cave Problem 7A. Took only a couple of goes (humble brag) thanks to getting a ton of beta off of another chap who was there. Felt soft as a result of all the beta but quite pleased to get it dispatched efficiently. First "new" grit 7 in 18 months. 5k run and curry and beer.
S-10k run. 24/16kg kettlebells. 5 minute dishes.
S-Burnt a pass getting out to Beginner's Wall to find the whole thing soaking wet. I should have known. Apparently that is the state of things now for the duration. Need other lime projects with reliable conditions. Consolation prize of max hangs including 2x10s at +40kgs and managing 8.5s at +48kgs - all on BM1k smalls and an 11k run. 16kg kettlebells and 5 minute dishes.

Weight 65.7->64.6kgs. Starting to feel in better shape now.

Need beta on local dry/reliable lime venues. Is Rubicon basically the best bet when it's wet elsewhere? Is Anston a lot more reliable? I need to get my teeth into something decent but outside passes are few and far between.

Yossarian

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Have moved Beastmaker into my study, so fingerboarding can commence in earnest.

I think having it somewhere more prominent makes it (a) easier to use more often and (b) a visual nag for when you are not training :D

Mine was in the front room until it came off with a load of plaster (which made me unsurprisingly unpopular)

Yep - it’s visible from the spot where I spend most of my time so impossible to ignore.

Easing into it with the help of the scales.

shark

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Need beta on local dry/reliable lime venues. Is Rubicon basically the best bet when it's wet elsewhere? Is Anston a lot more reliable? I need to get my teeth into something decent but outside passes are few and far between.

Anston has been very reliable so far this winter. Ben's roof at the Tor is permadry. Minus Ten is another potential. Apparently the P by Pic Tor has been holding out

tomtom

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I recon Anston would be right up your street Murph..

Probably heading there on Weds morning on my way back to Manc if you're about (suspect not - work etc.. - but thought I'd mention..). Mind you I've only been once :D

Murph

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Thanks chaps and thanks for the offer Tom. I’m busy of course but I will keep Anston in mind next chance I get. Like the look of a few things there.

Coops_13

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Coops - like Duncan says take it easy man! Interested whether you managed to flash the 5A though. Is it still three “laps” of about 8x7s hangs? I find it pumpy as heck.
I think they've made it easier due to complaints. It had four sets of hangs on the jugs!?! (skipped those)

Nibile

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Shark, did you go back in time to the '70s? Sports nutrition has evolved since then, fasting is not the way to go.
Unless you've been getting proteins every 3/4 hours, by fasting you only lost muscle, especially if you also excercised. Moreover, a few pounds on the scale could easily be due to water retention, constipation, inflammation (attracts liquids), carbs (1/3 carbs to water ratio), and so on.
Briefly, you could have done this for nothing good at all.
No wonder psyche is low.

tomtom

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Shark, did you go back in time to the '70s? Sports nutrition has evolved since then, fasting is not the way to go.
Unless you've been getting proteins every 3/4 hours, by fasting you only lost muscle, especially if you also excercised. Moreover, a few pounds on the scale could easily be due to water retention, constipation, inflammation (attracts liquids), carbs (1/3 carbs to water ratio), and so on.
Briefly, you could have done this for nothing good at all.
No wonder psyche is low.

Eat faster :)

petejh

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This just dropped into my inbox...

Quote
Do you know any low-carb evangelists? How about low-fat evangelists?

If the answer is yes, then you should probably let them know about a big new study that came out today. This study, from Stanford University, compared low-carb to low-fat for weight loss.

We analyzed it in depth here, and we also interviewed the study’s lead author to get his personal thoughts on the trial and on diet research in general.

Why is this study so important? For one, it’s much bigger than previous studies, and more study subjects means a more statistically valid result. Also, the researchers looked at whether individual genetics could make some people lose more weight eating low-carb or eating low-fat. They even factored in insulin production. Pretty cutting-edge stuff.

There are other unique aspects to this study, but rather than write a 2,000 word email, I encourage you to check out our full analysis: Low-fat vs low-carb? Major study concludes: it doesn't matter for weight loss

Link to the study (haven't read): https://examine.com/nutrition/low-fat-vs-low-carb-for-weight-loss/

nai

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Is Anston’s worth it? And in condition? Beginners wall is soaked and I fancy getting my teeth into something dependable while I have some form. (Which reminds me I still need to tick Piss as well!)

Sorry fella, missed this til now

Definitely worth it and often in nick when the Peak isn't, obviously humidity and temp rises ave the same affect as they do in the Peak. You'll have some good stuff to go at in your AT range.

Check out motorway cams to assess the clag factor before you travel:

https://www.motorwaycameras.co.uk/england/m1/southbound/traffic-camera/1940


lagerstarfish

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S. Had half of Bristol Uni CC staying over


turns out that some of my parents' best memories of my youth are when I brought similar groups to stay over at their house in Ilkley

 

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