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파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb (Read 8640 times)

tomtom

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파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 11, 2018, 06:30:45 pm
인사말! 

M: Work

Tu: Work

We: Ran out of time to get outdoors - OK depot session on way home... climbing crap but found some motivation on the 30.

Th:

Fr: Chasing dry rock with Nai... Rubicon: non. Ended up at Burbage West - much wet, including Breakfast - ended up on WSS. Slapped for the third sidepull a few times which wasnt too bad.. Went home and did some fingerboarding...

Sa: Family stuff - town - rain etc..

Su: Hoped for an improving forecast - snow showers looked set in and web cams far from positive about conditions. Waited until lunchtime then went to a busy Depot. Went and hid on the 30 - caught up with some folk I'd not seen for a while.. cranked fairly well. Feels like some form is coming back.

Luke Owens

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#1 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 11, 2018, 07:24:02 pm
Haven't posted in awhile due to starting a new job at the start of January and no longer use my work computer for endless UKB viewing. Started keeping an actual diary, y'know pen and paper... old skool.

Been training and getting out plenty but actually getting up anything has been illuding me for a couple of months. Finger strength is now priority and clearly my weakest link. Currently trying to improve half crimp on 20mm edge, at the start of January I could hold it unweighted for 7s, as of today managed to add 7.5kg and hang for 9s and added 10kg and managed 5s. Hopefully start showing improvment on the rock soon, been stuck at 6C+/7A for 6 years...

M: Lunch - Core and Shoulder stuff

T: Lunch - Max hangs on lowest old rock rings slot (~25mm?)
R1: 10s
R2: 10s (+5kg)
R3: 10s (+10kg)
R4: 10s (+15kg)

W: Late night lamping on Pill Box wall, 3rd session on Pill Box Original, didn't get there until 9pm. Have yet to try it in good connies, freezing and windy, did it from 2 moves in to the top just can't seem to get the link from the sit, worked out some more static beta for the crux later in the session so hopefully it'll go soon.

T: Lunch - Max hangs on lowest old rock rings slot (~25mm?)
R1: 10s (10kg)
R2: 10s (12.5kg)
R3:10s (15kg)
R4: 8s (17.5kg)

Eve: Made a homemade portable fingerboard with a 25mm and 20mm edge

F: Lunch - Wasted whole lunch time trying to get new fingerboard to hang level...

S: Rest

S: Forecast looked rubbish and cold, went to the Orme, showed Leon (son) around the Cave then went up to Normans Wisdom, Tried the 7A and 7A+ both nails and felt very hard, bad feet and burly roof problems.

Max hangs when back home:
20mm Edge - Half crimp
R1: 10s
R2: 8s (+5kg)
R3: 10s (+5kg)
R4: 7s (+7.5kg)
R5: 9s (+7.5kg)
R6: 5s (+10kg)

Lower BM2K edge - Half crimp
R1: 5s (-5kg)
R2: 4s (-5kg)
« Last Edit: February 11, 2018, 07:33:39 pm by Luke Owens »

Murph

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#2 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 07:15:59 am
Good one Tom.

M-work, easy kettlebells, 5 minute abs (hollow bodies),
T-easy power hour, light kettlebells, 5MA, max hangs up to almost 2x10s at +40kg on small BM holds
W-20k cycle commute, medium kettlebells, 5MA
T-20k cycle, works yellow (5/6?) circuit, max hangs up to +45kgs on small BM holds. Quite pleased about that. Really feel the form is coming in.
F-heavy-but-still-sub-max kettlebells but left wrist niggle meant couldn’t do the get ups with left at all. Annoying more than anything. 5MA.
S-11k easy run where I set a bunch of pbs round my regular easy loop. Really enjoyed that. Getting fit without overdoing it. Something about consistency. Easy kettlebells + 5MA.
S-5k easy run in snow, works yellow circuit, max hangs up to 3 sets of +40kg on small BM. Easy KB and 5MA.

65.5->65.7kgs

Feel pretty good about that all in. The plan is coming together.


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#3 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 07:43:39 am
this week

• do a green - fail
• book another day out in Feb - fail

this month

• 5 Greens (v6-8) at The Arch
• 2 days on rock - 1/2
• 7.5 seconds strict half crimp on max hangs

this year

7C
hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: 73.5 -> 73.4
Injuries: all feeling ok

Mon

nothing

Tue

nothing

Wednesday

nothing

Thursday

Arch B1

• Tried 3 greens, nearly got one. Good progress on other two. Also did a few of the reds and whites.

Friday

nothing

Saturday

nothing

Sunday

Arch B1

• Close on one of the greens i was trying, repeated a few whites. Did 15 benchmark 6B+'s on the moonboard.

next week

• do green on the big overhang
• book another day out in Feb
• max hangs session

nai

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#4 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 08:27:51 am
Feel pretty good about that all in. The plan is coming together.

Good stuff, I'm still beset by niggles, having spent all winter nursing a tweaky right middle PIP, I now have a tweaky left middle PIP  :slap:

coming week
normall full training week, maybe start AnCap.

coming month
Manage niggles, try to step things up without getting ill or (more) injured

M - Still under par from Saturday but I wanted to get out and Anston would likely be dry.  Climbed terribly, tore a flapper and suffered a minor tip split.

T - LI AeroCap, conditioning

W - beautiful day but had to take daughter to a school football tournament so stood out in perfect connies freezing cold for 4 hours.

Th - tried to fingerboard but split felt like it was opening up so sacked it. Conditioning.

Fri - Iffy connies after the nights rain but fancied being out, arranged to meet TT but in trying to avoid the wind just ended up at wet crags.   Quicky on board back home which went OK seeing as it was 3 hours since the warm up

S - HI AeroCap and conditioning.

S - rest


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#5 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 08:45:41 am
Thanks Tom.

STG - Manage the aches and pains. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - V4 on the Westway steep board by (mid) March. 7b in Siurana / Arboli in March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long free route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before.

M - Pull-ups. Shoulder strength, stretches.
T - Westway bouldering. Managed one of the not-so-steep purples (V3/4).
W - Stretches.
W - Shoulder strength, stretches.
T - Pull-ups.
F - Shoulder strength, stretches.
S - Westway bouldering to V3/4. Stopped early due to tweaky L. elbow.
S - Stretches. R. fingerboard ‘pick-ups’ to 35kg. Elbow sore.

Mixed week, no news about the job. Elbow is left lateral epicondyle pain, about the only bit that's not hurt previously. I’d felt it the previous week but put this down to angst and had subsequently managed three pull-up and two bouldering sessions without issue. Four strength days in one week was overdoing it. Hopefully an easy week followed by some gentler climbing outside will be enough to nip it in the bud. Shame as I’ll be down in Somerset for a couple of days this week and had hoped to grab an afternoon on rock.

Plan: easy week, continue with left shoulder stuff and right arm strength/finger rehab. with the little board.

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#6 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 09:09:55 am
Week in a v snowy Albarracin. c. 50cm of snow over 3 days put a limit on success on this trip, coupled with a bruised heel.

M: Rest day in Teruel hospital having X-rays of my heel. Missed the pad on Guillotina in La Fuente the day before: https://www.instagram.com/p/BeyNrNCH-YS/
T: More snow, another rest day...
W: Hobbled in to a v snowy Caberizo and flashed Techo Don Pepo 7A without using the right heel. Also did Lance de Don Pepo 7A+ and Traversia Don Pepo 7A there. Attempted a few other things and brushed snow off a number of boulders for following days. Finished by doing a soft 7B near Zombie Nation
T: Zarzamora 6C+ and Aeroline 7B had dried overnight after our cleaning so did both of those. Had a play on Zarz sit but no luck. Went to look at Palpant 7B+ and almost did that, ran out of beans...
F: Techos, brushed off a load more things. Ticked A Ciegas which was very good, quite stiff at 7A+
S: Big battle to send Trave de Techos 7B, a lot of things wet now due to run-off from the trees.
S: Nothing climbable, nice contrast sitting on Valencia beach in 20 degree weather, 30 degrees warmer than Friday...

Nice trip to Albarracin, weather was shit and the food was awful. There are a number of recommendations I have seen on this site for food and I don't think I'd agree with any of them. La Zahora burgers are possibly the worst burgers I have ever had in my life. Tiny, bad quality meat, served with c. 7 chips. The pizza place mentioned is dire. The only place there is to eat is Asador. This place is amazing. Their Bocadillios are v good (pork steak, bacon and cheese in a baguette). Also they do a dinner where you get a kilo of blue steak delivered sizzling to your table  :bow:

tomtom

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#7 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 09:31:11 am
Nasty heel jar there Coops - hope it heals fast. Guessing its not broken?

Coops_13

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#8 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 09:54:54 am
Nasty heel jar there Coops - hope it heals fast. Guessing its not broken?
Yeah just bruised, these things take a while unfortunately as it's difficult to rest the heel

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#9 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 09:59:51 am
M - Wave. Bit up and down. Ended up trying white/black spots and did in two overlapping sections. 10 x pull ups.
T - PM board. Good, long session. Did Project #1. Felt good.
W -
T - Lunch - Lattice Test. 72, 54 (75%), 67 (93%), 31 (43%), 28 (38%), 27 (37%), 15 (20%), 14. Interesting. Probably didn't try hard enough on the first effort.
F -
S - The Climbing Works - 2 hours doing the whole Yellow circuit and a few comp wall problems. Like the look of the nu 30 degree board.
S -

Lattice test similar to this time last year i.e. well down on my PR of 128. Enjoyed circuiting at the Works and it wasn't even busy. Hoping to climb outside this week in what will be the first time on grit since October.

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#10 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 10:30:06 am
STG: Get back into training
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

61.7kg (dont think I ate or drank enough after climbing Sunday evening though)


M: Rest
T: BUK 55 Board. started off slow but ended up probably being one of my better sessions on the board to date.
W: Rockover. 1 arm hangs 3/6/9secondsx5. Bench press 4x8. Deadlift 5x5
T: Rest
F: Awesome Walls Stockport. Worked on movement. Interesting how front on I climb naturally, can definitely improve by working on this.
S: Rest
S: Yoga in the morning
BUK 55 Board in the evening. Didn't send anything new but repeated a few things fairly quickly

Dolly

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#11 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 11:32:34 am
Didn't post last week as I was still ill and couldn't do anything


M ill
T ill
W Not completely shit. Had a small walk around Higgar in the snow
T First day without painkillers and not falling asleep in the morning for 3 weeks.
F Managed 35 minutes in the shed
S Kettlebells and core
S About 8 routes on autobelay at gym.


Still not completely recovered from one of those bugs with no symptoms apart from head/body ache and no energy, but loads better. I think it wil take a while to get back to fitness. 

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#12 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 12:27:01 pm
I had a lot of nice food at Restaurant Pizzeria El Meson Del Gallo. Unless they've gone rapidly downhill in a year?? Hotel Restaurante Prado Del Navazo was also good and swanker.  :shrug: :shrug: :shrug: Sorry to hear about the weather tho, that sounds like it HAS gone rapidly downhill!

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#13 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 12:27:47 pm
Rest / recovery week

11.1-3 (Average 156.1lb down 0.1 lb on last week)

M. Noon. Anston Shortish sess. Tried to nail third move. Couldn't and got frustrated. Spent too many sessions on something too hard. Stupid shark

T.

W. Tor. Beautiful day. Luke D there. Bosi turned up to try Mutation and then Lu to try Ben's extension. Good scenes, mint connies Nick went off message and tied on. I made progress on Ben's. Close to going from start to kneebar 3x Also dogged the last move successfully 3x including once when I didn't cut loose. Played a bit on Weedkiller but a bit soggy. Led up Tin Of with two rests and then top roped similarly. Busted

T. Physio and foxtrot

F. 

S. Planned on aeocap but felt exhausted

S. Foundry. Felt terrible on Wave to begin with but got better. Bouldered with Paul and Stef. Managed the wasp on the far right helped by Paul telling me he'd flashed it. AeroCappy autobelay stuff to finish. Wave now being re-set

Hopefully recovered enough to get back into training this week. Looking forward to trying out new problems on Wave and booked to climb outside with Nick on thurs and fri. Found myself slipping back into drinking so need to rein that in. 

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#14 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 12:40:39 pm

Nice trip to Albarracin, weather was shit and the food was awful. There are a number of recommendations I have seen on this site for food and I don't think I'd agree with any of them. La Zahora burgers are possibly the worst burgers I have ever had in my life. Tiny, bad quality meat, served with c. 7 chips. The pizza place mentioned is dire. The only place there is to eat is Asador. This place is amazing. Their Bocadillios are v good (pork steak, bacon and cheese in a baguette). Also they do a dinner where you get a kilo of blue steak delivered sizzling to your table  :bow:

Food was top at La Zahora when we went over Xmas and NY, they must have just not liked you  ;)

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#15 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 01:20:40 pm
Cheers Tom.
Power Club

Mon - system static one foot, full crimp 4 x 5. Boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1 third week of third cycle, 69x8 last set. Extremely satisfied, better form, better results. Farmer's, 100x1'; 120x30"x2; 130x30"x2; 120x30". Beautiful session!
Thu - ab wheel, weights, half pull ups.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - 1,5 cm session at 90%; snatch pulls.
Sun - rest. Tired.

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#16 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 01:23:29 pm
got frustrated. Spent too many sessions on something too hard. Stupid shark
....................................................................... :-\ :-\ :-\

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#17 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 04:25:45 pm

Nice trip to Albarracin, weather was shit and the food was awful. There are a number of recommendations I have seen on this site for food and I don't think I'd agree with any of them. La Zahora burgers are possibly the worst burgers I have ever had in my life. Tiny, bad quality meat, served with c. 7 chips. The pizza place mentioned is dire. The only place there is to eat is Asador. This place is amazing. Their Bocadillios are v good (pork steak, bacon and cheese in a baguette). Also they do a dinner where you get a kilo of blue steak delivered sizzling to your table  :bow:

Food was top at La Zahora when we went over Xmas and NY, they must have just not liked you  ;)
Hmm, that could be it haha. I thought Zahora and Meson de Gallo were v sub-par when compared to the options in Magic Wood, Font, Rocklands, Tonsai, Slovenia, Ceuse etc...

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#18 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 05:10:27 pm
I thought Zahora and Meson de Gallo were v sub-par when compared to the options in Magic Wood, Font, Rocklands, Tonsai, Slovenia, Ceuse etc...

I bet they weren't sub par compared to that fucking italian place in Sheffield, worst meal of my life.

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#19 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 06:13:31 pm
I thought Zahora and Meson de Gallo were v sub-par when compared to the options in Magic Wood, Font, Rocklands, Tonsai, Slovenia, Ceuse etc...

I bet they weren't sub par compared to that fucking italian place in Sheffield, worst meal of my life.
I think the order best to worst of the three would be:
 - Meson
 - Italian place in Sheff
 - Zahora

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#20 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 08:07:33 pm
Which Italian place was it ?

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#21 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 08:48:43 pm
max hangs up to +45kgs on small BM holds.
PB no? Good boarding, have a wad

M- nul
T- Max hangs BM micros (10mm) 7 sets up to (+20kg x 5s) x 3 - trying to dial things back a bit to “rest” fucked finger.
DL nice session 14 sets including another 220, 235 off 2” blocks and 5 sets of 210 singles - new set-up working very smoothly and feeling ready to push towards PBing..
One armers - 8 sets per side singles inbetween my DL sets - excellent quality deep pulls; strange combination as you’d expect the whole body fuckage of intense lifting would evaporate the will to pull 1 armers, but 1xbw just feels ridiculously light after 3xbw!
W- nul
T- Squats about 12 sets, failed to PB with 2xbw; bunch of reduced depth squats to work my DL ROM
F- nul
S- nul
S- 2hrs Stoke AW - taped the fuck up but still foolish to climb as finger now befucked again - probs up to V6 and did all the moves on the cruxy V8 in the cave so will no doubt bugger finger again next wk trying it :slap:

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#22 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 12, 2018, 08:58:03 pm
STG - Slim down / improve flexibility / sort out training:recovery balance / get down to Dorset for some trad and sport
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - tbc

Mon - Went swimming for first time in years. Struggled to balance desire to go fast with ability to breathe, which resulted in not particularly erotic asphyxiation.
Tues / Wed - Rest and stretching
Thursday - Fairly good session at the wall. Felt relatively well rested, did some board problems and not-too-serious campusing, and didn’t feel like my arms were going to separate from their sockets.
Friday - Tried trail running again post Achilles injury. Got progressively more uncomfortable over 6.5 miles.
Saturday - Limping again. Decent 3 hour session at the wall, including ticking a couple of problems that felt desperate the previous week. Fun.
Sunday - Kettlebell / dumbbell / bodyweight Jason Statham megamix.

Weight: 99.4kg - 98.3kg

Not a bad week, though I was previously enjoying running and injury is proving frustrating. Meant to be heading down to Swanage this weekend, though partner has been making noises about his ailments, so might end up drawing spaceships instead. Have been working on very optimistic trad ticklists.

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#23 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 13, 2018, 08:58:18 am
Which Italian place was it ?
Can't remember the name, it was on the main road, near the Sheaf and Brothers Arms

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#24 Re: 파워 클럽 415 4th Feb - 11th Feb
February 13, 2018, 09:04:56 am
max hangs up to +45kgs on small BM holds.
PB no? Good boarding, have a wad
Indeed it was! Maybe an all time PB. I was quite stoked, specially as it felt so easy. This wasn't one of the ones where I had to drop off at 9.999 seconds and recorded it as 10*. This was fully an 11. I know it's not an end in itself but it's good to feel not weak again. Now I just need a certain bit of lime to be dry at the same time as I have a pass. I'm still more than a bag of spuds heavier than goal tho but maybe I'm delusional about that.

Good luck not niggling the PIP(?) with +20kg on micros for reps! And love the comment about one armers feeling easy.

Nai - you too with that PIP. In fact, all the PIPs. Don't copy measles rehab plan tho!

Coops - heel well man!

T_B - good luck finding dry grit this week. Post on connies if you track it down.

Luke - looks like your fingerboarding is coming on well (from memory) - good to see.

 

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