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Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb (Read 8451 times)

shark

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Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 04, 2018, 06:08:32 pm
11.0-3 (Average 156.2lb down 1.5 lb on last week)

M. Foundry. short session Autobelay L1 warm up. Tried projects on Wave. No progress. Did a couple of level2s. Felt pretty good. Autobelay L1+ warm down

T. Grey cold. 4 degrees. Tor with Nick C. Lots of seepage streaks. Worked start of Ben's. No progress other than settling on the optimum shoe combo - hiangles both feet. Nick put rope up Tin Of. Some soggy holds - rock cold. All fairly grim. Managed to lead with one fall on crux then top roped in a oner which I was chuffed with all things considered. Encouraged that I could recover well on the shakes

W. Woodys Anston Nice at first but then snow. Shortish session mainly trying and failing on third move again. Eve Fingerboard. Best scores on 12mm hold Full crimp +10kg x 8secs and Drag + 20kg x 11secs

T. Eve Learning to foxtrot

F.  Forecast chilly dry and some sun. Near perfect grit temps so gave in to the temptation. Met Nick at Burb North car park at 10 joined by TT an hour later. 3 hours on Blind Date. Reached the left slot a few times but unable to hold. Disappointing. Only positive was burning TT off opening a pot of superglue. Eve. Fingerboard session Managed to eke out some half crimp scores similar to weds but blown by time got to drags. Some rest days in order. Got hammered.

S. Rest

S. Rest

Ground to a halt this week unsurprisingly. Had a great block training and climbing 28 days out of 34 which included 8 outside bouldering sessions, 8 sessions on the Wave, 10 fingerboard sessions and 5 AnCap sessions on board. Easier week this week.   

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#1 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 04, 2018, 06:32:33 pm
M: indoors, moonboard. Good session
T
W: moonboard, good session
T:
F:
S: Flew to Valencia, got to the crag at 1330 and managed to get a few hints done. Snow on some boulders but not others. Did Arista de Lois Belgas 7B which was amazing. A bit like Crusis at the cliff, but harder with a sketch top out. Zig Zag 7A 2nd go, Techos de Menos 6C 2nd go. Should have flashed both ☹️ Also did La Rave at Parking and failed on a few more blocs. Good day
S: A couple of inches of snow overnight and a full day of snowing. Went out to techos to find some dry rooves. Decided that if the top out was piss, a drop off would count (for us). “Did” Gorillaz 7A+ dyno them failed hard on Quebrebamantes. Went to find a dry roof with three 7s linkups which I did. Nice PE training but fairly soft. Good to be out in the snow.

Snow forecast for the next few days, we’ll see what happens...

fried

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#2 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 04, 2018, 06:38:56 pm
January check in

3 sessions indoors for first 2 weeks, sick the second, 2 last week. Nothing hurts.

1 kg weight lost 76.2 still a kilo to go.

Drank loads due to French bureaucratic nightmare stress.

It hasn't stopped raining since mid November

Ready for a new season

measles23

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#3 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 04, 2018, 08:43:08 pm
68.4kg

M- 0
T- Woody’s - conditions couldn’t have been better, but finally my finger injury has deteriorated to affect my crimp and I could barely pull on. Just a trifle frustrating when 2 weeks ago I was lapping the crux impotently under a sopping wet upper wall.. head game now - I am considering actually resting this injury as I’ve had it for 2yrs and “active” rest isn’t working!
W- work; not a great day - failed to rescucitate one of my ward patients who dropped dead, and one of my few cancer patients has recurred..
T- Gym and the sanctuary of metal: 17 sets DL up to 5 plates again (220), bunch of isometric lifts and finished off with 5 sets of 200 singles - feeling strong and consolidating new set-up, which is much better balanced (peak set tunes Gravity by Architects)
5 sets deep squats up to 120
F- DOMS feels like I’ve been gang banged by a herd of angry rhinos
S- cubs trip to Cosford air museum; ace - tried to gob off about my past life jumping out the back of C130s but none of the little fuckers would believe me
S- watched other people climb at the wall :shit:. Actually don’t really mind; Alison’s climbing well at the mo so pleasure just to spot..

erm, sam

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#4 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 04, 2018, 09:00:00 pm
Quote
hiangles both feet

That is not a combo. That is just wearing climbing shoes.

shark

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#5 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 04, 2018, 09:37:07 pm
Quote
hiangles both feet

That is not a combo. That is just wearing climbing shoes.

It is if you combobulated them

nai

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#6 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 04, 2018, 10:20:01 pm

M conditioning programme
LI AeroCap

T massage, whole hour working on right shoulder.  Quite painful Stretches PM

W rest, soreness, recovery stretches

Th shoulder still a bit tender so resisted temptation to head out. Stretches

F  Anston. Decent connies but climbed like a total spanner, still didn't manage the hard moves on Last Stand or Blind Bat and couldn't repeat Fine Art or work out what to do after the start.  Although I've since realised that the way I'm trying it is actually the way to start Fine Beta and that there's more holds available which might make things easier. That's if video evidence is to be believed of course...
Left middle PIP and elbow started to feel tweaky (pretty much exactly the same as I've just recovered from on the right side so suspect the problem lies in shoulder and/or forearms)

S - AM - HI AeroCap and conditioning programme.
Any good work undone by going to football in the afternoon with a couple of heavyweights who take no prisoners.

S - nowt


csl

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#7 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 07:47:49 am
Not a great week, work's driven me to the point of quitting. Took a couple of my oldest friends who'd got into climbing out on Sunday, which was great.

this week

find a few green projects
• 1 proper max hangs session - fail
• at least 1 font 7 in the Peak on the weekend - fail

this month

• 5 Greens (v6-8) at The Arch
• 2 days on rock - 1/2
• 7.5 seconds strict half crimp on max hangs

this year

• 7C
• hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: 73.5 -> 73.4
Injuries: nothing serious

Mon

nothing

Tue

Arch - AM

ok session, flashed a few V5/6 things, did a Green in two halves.

Stronghold - PM

Took a mate from work climbing, didn't do anything hard myself.

Wednesday

nothing

Thursday

nothing

Friday

nothing

Saturday

Drove around the peak in the snow a bit, then went to the works. Did a bunch of wasps + irn bru's

Sunday

Stanage - a few goes on green traverse, should probably have tried a bit harder and done it
Curbar - a few goes on Trackside, couldn't remember what I did last time and it felt a lot harder. Very close on Bad Lip.

next week

• do a green
• book another day out in Feb

shark

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#8 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 08:01:54 am
Not a great week, work's driven me to the point of quitting.

 :( Hope things are better this week

Yossarian

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#9 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 08:59:24 am
STG - Slim down / improve flexibility / sort out training:recovery balance / get down to Dorset for some trad and sport
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - tbc

Mon - 6.5 mile trail run
Tues - Couple of hours at the wall doing volume. Stretching in the evening.
Wed - Stretching pm - making good progress.
Thursday - Wall. Circuit board being reset, so did some laps on various harder things. Arms feeling a bit knackered and in need of rest. 4.5 mile run pm - first one on hard surface for a while. Seemed ok.
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Mammoth 3 hours at wall with daughter. Mostly trying harder things, though tried newly set circuit wall too. Found a second wind and was still pulling quite hard at the end. Another 4.5 mile run in the evening. Achilles felt a bit weird at the end.
Sunday - Limping. Transition from running off road to on not entirely successful.

Weight: 100.1 - 99.4kg - yay

A good week - also drew a lot of spaceships, but running injury doesn’t bode well for weight loss. Going to try some swimming over the next few days.

yetix

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#10 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 09:40:42 am
STG: Get back into training
MTG: Picnic Sarcastic SS, Suavito, Simple Simon
LTG: 7C

62.5kg


M: Rest
T: Rockover: Sent a few more problems on the comp wall. 1 arm hangs 3/6/9secondsx5
Gym session: Deadlift 5x5. Bench press 5x8. KB swing 3x12
W: Rest
T: Depot: Limit bouldering. managed a few moves on some of the Oranges with SamSam. Quick session on a few projects on the 30 board
F: Rest
S: BUK 55 Board. 1 arm hangs 3/6/9secondsx5
S: Outdoors. Sheep Pen, felt pretty tired but a great day!


tomtom

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#11 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 09:53:29 am
M: manage 5 hours sleep after 40 hours of none :( Work...

Tu: Work

We: Work - head to Depot on way back across/home. Stutter about on new blacks - try the odd harder move. First time climbing in 12 days. Skin felt awful!

Th: DaddyDaycareDay. Plane spotting at the airport then swimming..

Fr: Should have had a low intensity highish volume grit day - as the weather was superb for it. Instead was lured  to BBG and to Blind Date by Shark. Didn't do too badly (better than I expected) made the LH slot a few times from a stand (I find the first move almost the hardest bizarrely..) and felt it in my arms after so was a decent work out after all. Anyway, good to catch up with Shark and Nick - and by arriving late managed to avoid getting burnt off on BD like the others were by the strong Yoof who was there as well :)

When TTjnr (18 months old) wants the TV on - he picks up the remote control shoves it towards my face and goes 'uh' - pointing at the TV.
When Shark wants a handhold brushed that he cant reach, he picks up a brush, shoves it in my face and goes 'uh' - pointing at the hold.

Sa: Ached. Started to feel a bit crap...

Su: Felt rubbish - but with great conditions and a 1/2 day pass dragged my fetid carcass out to Gib Torr to meet up with Plattsy. Great time trying THAT 7A arete... Hard.. I was knackered - excuses excuses. 5 min after I left had a message from Plattsy that he sent it - excellent.   

duncan

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#12 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 12:03:45 pm
Sorry to hear that csl but better to jump than be pushed (see below).

STG - Rehab. finger. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - V4 on the Westway steep board by (mid) March. 7b in Siurana / Arboli in March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long free route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before.

M - Westway: 40 laps ~500m on the autobelay.
T - Shoulder strength, stretches.
W - shoulder strength, stretches.
T - Tired and fed-up. Tried doing pull-ups but not happening.
F - Pull-ups.
S - Mostly sleeping. 
S - Portland with the retired super Alpinist (and original Alpine binman). Chilly, breezy but sunny and sheltered on Blacknor Central. Great conditions if you could keep your fingers warm. The Alpine binman gloves worked pretty well, fit like a Burton’s suit so not the last word in dexterity, but fingers were toasty whilst belaying. Did some some 6a+s and a 6b+. Tried Silent but Deadly (6c/+), hung on the lower wall (cold fingers), did the crux from the hands-off.

Mixed few days. I’ve being asked to effectively reapply for my job, not a comfortable feeling, and this overshadowed much of the week. Great to get out on Sunday on a glorious cold and crisp day. Technical and slabby routes, so right up my street, but pleased with how my finger tolerated chilly crimping. Finger jamming is still some way off. 

Plan: continue basic strength (fingerboard and pull-ups). Do a Half Dome day (600m) of medium intensity aerocap. Slowly increase the bouldering intensity as finger allows.

T_B

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#13 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 12:19:06 pm
M - Wave - felt a bit raggy, but still managed the 3 hardest problems from last Monday, first or second go.
T -  Furnace board. Made up two really good problems, one with 4 x undercuts in it #workingweaknesses
W -
T - Wave. Still felt tired. Sore lower back. Just worked all moves on white/black spots. Better than a week last Monday.
F -
S - Garage board - put new holds on, but didn't really manage a proper session as kids intent on fighting each other rather than letting Daddy sneak in a short session.
S -

Two hard bouldering sessions Mon/Tue off the back of a tough fell race on Sunday was not a good idea. Either an average heart rate of 178bpm for nearly two hours and/or too much caffeine triggered ectopic heat beats (had them once before) that didn't settle until Friday. Generally destroyed Wed/Thu.

Put 10 x new Hardwood Holds holds on my board, which has opened up a whole world of possibilities.

Lost some lard this week, having put 2.5Kg on in the previous 3 weeks :devangel:


moose

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#14 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 01:45:12 pm
Put 10 x new Hardwood Holds holds on my board, which has opened up a whole world of possibilities.

Enjoy.  I have 10 pairs of Hardwood Holds / LX Grips pinches and crimps on my woodie and they are lovely holds - fine grained and dense / compact feeling - skin-friendly and even the smallest crimps feel non-tweaky. 

mr chaz

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#15 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 04:56:48 pm
Must've been you TT and Plattsy we saw at Gibb Tor (Yes he did do it!)

sxrxg

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#16 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 07:15:47 pm
Yetix, if you are who I think you are from Instagram (and the depot/buk) then there is no way 7c should be a long term aim for you. It is well within your capabilities now from what I have seen. Maybe a revision to stg/mtg is required and up the ltg to something really challenging (8a?) 

Murph

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#17 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 08:38:56 pm
M-long day. Kettlebells. 5 minute abs. Research into what flexibility/conditioning/yoga thing I really should be doing but hopelessly time pressed and distracted.
T-pinkles, max hangs, just a touch off the standard, kettlebells, 5MA, GMB intro ten minute session of squats, planks and crab things. The squats and planks are way beneath me. The crab was testing some weaknesses.
W-bit drained and too much “research” into what flexibility thing led to inaction. There are too many things I could be doing.
T-8k easy run. Felt stinkin’ great. Good session on the wasps.
F-kids, didn’t cram any training in.
S-Drove round looking for dry lime. Blackwell dale is closed off. If anyone knows whether you can get there from the other way please say. Went to Rubicon and had a great time re-learning the three tier sequences in less than optimal conditions. It was pretty yucky really but good to get out.
5k easy run.
S-trackside session with the wife and two year old. He loved jumping in the mud. Wife re-did the slot problem so has to do strawberries next. I did my usual loop of everything up to trackside feeling effortless, then sidetrack feeling really hard. But it wasn’t about me.
11k run. Lovely end to day.

65.8->65.5kg (fri)

Good week all in and great to get back on lime. I love it. Hope to stay motivated and get back on Advanced Training soon as.

Got lurgy now tho. Hopefully not fatal.

Murph

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#18 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 09:02:21 pm
Measles - that sounds a shit day at work! But a good day in the sanctuary! You going to rest your finger now by going all in again on MFDL? You still see The Beast down there or has he really retired?

Yossarian - good work on the double digits. Good luck rehabbing the achilles. Usual “you can’t outrun a bad diet” unsolicited...

Tomtom - THAT arête is proper hard. Back in the day when I was going alright some friends took me out there just so I would get spanked on it. It’s unfathomable what you’d have to do to get it. Good luck if you go back.

Csl - I might have been at trackside when you were. Trackside is all about kicking that left foot against the low arête/wall to reach the high RH hold, then lean left and heel at the bottom of the crack toes pointing right down. At least it is the way I do it. Good luck next time.

Nibile

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#19 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 10:09:50 pm
Power Club

Mon - metcon complex x 6.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1, second week, third cycle. Lowered my training max to 73 kg, hit 66 x 10 on last set. Better technique also. Missed rep 5 but kept at it and got to 10 good reps, with 7, 8 and 9 being the best ones, technically wise. Fast. For the first time in three months I was able to do half a pull up without my left elbow screaming with pain.
Thu - ab wheel. Strong.
Fri - snatch pulls complex, weights, half pull ups.
Sat - quick session, ab wheel, weights.
Sun - 1,5 session at 90%, brilliant. Snatch pulls, clean and press, muscle snatch.

measles23

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#20 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 05, 2018, 11:00:10 pm
You going to rest your finger now by going all in again on MFDL? You still see The Beast down there or has he really retired?
1. Yup  :)
2. Good point not seen for awhile

Will try to check out my end of the dale for ya sometime..

Mon - metcon complex x 6.

Wtf are these?? Always sneaking in some secret must-do mysterious shit with a sexy name, and then behaving like everyone must know what you’re on about!! Explain your beastliness!!

tomtom

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#21 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 06, 2018, 06:10:08 am
Mon - metcon complex x 6.

Wtf are these?? Always sneaking in some secret must-do mysterious shit with a sexy name, and then behaving like everyone must know what you’re on about!! Explain your beastliness!!

6 reps of checking the weather forecast ;)

csl

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#22 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 06, 2018, 09:34:34 am
Thanks Shark!

Murph, it wasn't me but there was another chap trying it when I arrived (and when i left). I was confused as I had an easy feeling sequence last time!

Duncan, hoping it all works out ok for you!

Nibile

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#23 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 06, 2018, 09:49:05 am
Mon - metcon complex x 6.

Wtf are these?? Always sneaking in some secret must-do mysterious shit with a sexy name, and then behaving like everyone must know what you’re on about!! Explain your beastliness!!
Ahahahah!
First rule of Metcon Club, never speak about Metcon Club!
Jokes apart, Metcon stands for Metabolic Conditioning, a type of excercise that's based on HIIT, only done with weights. It's aimed at raising the metabolism, and produces high levels of EPOC (excessive postexcercise oxygen consumption).
This complex is performed with dumbbells and is composed of: romanian DL, rows, snatch high pulls, bicep curls (with body swing), thruster, alternated lunges. Performed for 8 reps back to back, for 6/8 sets with 1' rests between sets. I use 11 kg dumbbells.
The thrusters feel brutal at the end.
There you go, have a try at it!
 ;D

measles23

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#24 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 06, 2018, 02:07:37 pm
I got reflux just reading that  :sick:

You still see The Beast down there or has he really retired?

Speak of the devil - Ceithin’s NIBAS book is now the proud owner of the world’s strongest signature  :bow:

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#25 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 06, 2018, 02:58:52 pm
Don't know if it's ok to wad someone because of their son's signature collection but here you go  :strongbench:

measles23

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#26 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 06, 2018, 04:59:26 pm

Murph

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#27 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 06, 2018, 05:35:40 pm
Sweet. Already wadded. I would LOVE to see Eddie climb. Probably unfair but just the thought reminds me of this video of the strongest climbers in Germany.

https://youtu.be/LUi3yboUOdA?t=75

Probably a mirror image of what sanctuary regulars must see when a 7 stone sport climber turns up to do a bit of S&C. Sorta.

yetix

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#28 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 06, 2018, 10:58:55 pm
Yetix, if you are who I think you are from Instagram (and the depot/buk) then there is no way 7c should be a long term aim for you. It is well within your capabilities now from what I have seen. Maybe a revision to stg/mtg is required and up the ltg to something really challenging (8a?)

Heard a few people say something along these lines recently, I think I need to work on my head game to be honest. I'm incredibly pesimistic about my own abilities and always assume I'm weak for the grade

GazM

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#29 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 07, 2018, 09:20:57 am
Late post for Flower Pub:

Mon - Afternoon at new Strathconon boulders, climbed a nice wee prow at c.6C, but I have no idea about grades anymore. https://www.flickr.com/photos/100362744@N02/39071163995/in/dateposted/
Tues - Nothing
Weds - 5km lunchtime run, 23mins.  Short deadhang session on BM2K in evening.
Thurs - Nothing
Fri - Back to Strathconon.  Making progress on the main event but no joy.  Think I've got a sequence though. Cleaned another easy problem.
Sat - nothing
Sun - Board session

Still just about keeping my head above water with a 4.5 month baby that has taken a dislike to sleeping at night.  It would be nice if I could get one more board session in each week but at the moment I'm not feeling in peak condition in the evenings after work.  It's just a phase everyone keeps saying...


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#30 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 07, 2018, 11:37:18 am
Cool dog

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#31 Re: Flower Pub 29 Jan – 4 Feb
February 07, 2018, 12:24:12 pm
Cheers! Yes she is very cool.  As I write this she's snoozing under my desk, dreaming of scrittly first ascents.

 

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