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Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero (Read 2887 times)

tomtom

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Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 20, 2018, 12:37:34 pm
Well its nearly Sunday in Australia....

M>W work. Shit forecast.
Th. Crap forecast
Fr: Depot, Manchester. Then off to the airport

MAN > LHR
LHR > MNL
MNL > DAR

Just as well my SHARKATHON(tm) doesn't involve exercise as I've spent most of the last 24 hours sat on my arse. 

Nibile

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#1 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 21, 2018, 10:31:07 am
Well its nearly Sunday in Australia....
I thought you were in Hungary...

csl

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#2 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 21, 2018, 12:27:39 pm
this week

- do 75% of red circuit - tick
- lose .5kg to reach 74.5 - tick
- 5 second hang at 74kg on each arm - on right arm, not on left
- 2x stretching - 1 of 2  :spank:

this month

- lose christmas weight belt (1 ~ 1.5kg) - tick
- hang 1 pad edge for 7.5secs @ 74kg
- do 75% of the red circuit at the arch in a session

this year

- 7C
- hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Weight: 74.2kg
Injuries: crunchy right shoulder, need to keep a close eye on this

Mon

Arch B1

- 9/14 of the red circuit, close on one more

Tue

Stretching

Wednesday

Arch B1

- max hangs, best effort was a 5 second hang on right arm, left arm is about 1.5kg weaker

Moonboard

Flashed about 7 benchmark 6B+'s
should have flashed Borneo 7B (7A?) but went to the wrong finish hold as didn't light it up, done 2nd go.
Came v. close on Power Cat 7B+.

Thursday

nothing

Friday

Arch B1

did a couple more from red circuit, got the beta on another couple to do next session. Also flashed a few easier problems and repeated half the red circuit.

Saturday

nothing

Sunday

nothing

next week

- do 75% of the reds in a session
- max hangs: 7.5 seconds on right @ 74kg, 5 seconds on left @ 73.5kg

tomtom

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#3 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 21, 2018, 07:58:27 pm
Well its nearly Sunday in Australia....
I thought you were in Hungary...

Sticky northern Australia for a week... have fingerboard will travel ;)

nai

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#4 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 21, 2018, 09:02:51 pm
liking csl's approach, so:

coming week:
3 strength sessions, 3 conditioning sessions, LI & HI AeroCap

coming month
do all Wave L2s in a session
do 3 or more L3s in a session
register some Anston (and maybe grit) ticks.
start AnCap

coming season
climbing goals tbc
stay healthy, have fun

M - Foundry being reset, garage condensed, outside sopping. Still a bit done in from Saturday anyway. Managed to warm up on the wooden holds & rungs then Max hangs & conditioning

T - slightly dodgy guts again, felt a bit off. HI AeroCap, conditioning

W - felt rough

Th - still not great, drove to miniWorks intending to AeroCap then decided against it

Fr - bit better - warmed up at home then chanced Anston which turned out to be mint. Started on Colt but made no progress; made it through the hard section of Fine Art then cocked up, unfortunately it was in shade so I was getting cold between attempts so left it til next time; with just 10 minutes left decided to have a look at a sunny Beretta reasoning it'd give me a chance of success next time but sussed all the moves really quickly and felt like I could have done it with a bit more time. Felt significantly easier than the other pair, morphology I guess.

S - LI AeroCap

S rest


nai

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#5 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 21, 2018, 09:06:55 pm
Injuries: crunchy right shoulder, need to keep a close eye on this

Mine's like this, down to tight/locked/muscles, could even be down in the lower Traps. Try getting a massage or get the foam roller & spikey balls out and try Eagle arms, thread the needle & scarf stretches plus some scapular pullups & pressups.

Dolly

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#6 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 21, 2018, 09:58:18 pm
M nothing. Felt knackered all day
T Had to pick up some tiles so on a whim went to awesome walls for the first time which was near. Itís probably ok for routes if you like that sort of thing
W Bodyweight HIT
T The Wave. Hard. Itís just the best int it ?
F Out on cross bike through some woods Iíd never been to before. Muddy cold hard fun
S beastmaker for first time in ages
S My fingers and lats  felt it from the beast maker. Auto belay routes at gym.


Hopefully will get outside this week even if itís Anston

shark

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#7 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 21, 2018, 11:14:05 pm
11.3-4

M. Systems board AnCap Attempted 3 sets of 4 goes on Oak AnCap sequence. Got thru crimpy start every time but only through throw move (move 12) about half of them. Then did a set of 20:10s. Tips worn. Again

T. Fingerboard, Did ok on fingerboard on crimps and half crimps (11 and 12 sec hang on 12mm with +5kg) but when came to do drags my strongest grip with +10kg couldn't hold edge at all. Tips were sore and thin and I was tired but I think the main issue was skin was glassy. Been regularly using a lot of Elizabeth Arden and seem to have acquired frictionless sheen on my skin in process, (yes I had scrubbed tips to get rid of residue before the session). Invested in sanding block the following morning to get my tips in better and rougher shape

W. Foundry Easyish warm up on autobelay. Wave reset. Did most of level2s on steep section and got close on wasp left of centre. Warm down on autobelay

T. Foundry Easyish warm up on autobelay. Did wasp left of centre first attempt. Tried a mid height iron cross type move on wasp right of centre but shut down on it. Short session

F. Foundry Easyish warm up on autobelay. Wave Still couldn't do iron cross type move on wasp right of centre. Started working black and got decent progress then managed to do iron cross move. Warm down autobelay

S. Anston. Sleety horrid weather driving there. Probably would have turned round if I hadnít arranged to meet Karl B  Amazingly Soul Crusher was dry and the conditions perfect. Also my skin was good at last. Had a great session with Karl working SC, finally doing the second move ie holding the slot and manoeuvring feet around the roof. Did the first move a few times as well but too tired to nail the third move.

S Systems board AnCap. Slight improvement on Monday

Good week and generally things seem to be going in the right direction. Seem to be able to sustain climb/train successive days on so will try to gradually add to volume of sessions especially the L1 aerocap work advised by nai last week. Just going up a 6a+ and down a 5 a couple of times without stopping is a bit pumpy at the minute.

May throw in an easier week soon Ė possibly this week depending how I feel. Tweaked my back pottering in kitchen on tuesday morning which later in day became a sore lat. A reminder to resume regular stretching.

Still on track with Sharkathon which includes no booze. Weight has settled this month at 11.3-4 and 11-12% body fat which whilst a decent range Im still disappointed  that Iím not losing it, so to speak. Cherry on the cake this week was doing the key move on Soul Crusher. \o/

Nibile

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#8 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 07:30:46 am
Power Club

Mon - metcon complex, brutal.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1, fourth week, deload.
Thu - ab wheel and snatch pulls complex, back to back.
Fri -  rest.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - foot on campusing on back and front3, front and mid2, full crimp.

Coops_13

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#9 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 08:59:30 am
Felt significantly easier than the other pair, morphology I guess.
I think it's a bit easier, just need to unlock the crucial beta on Colt and it feels fine. Once you've done Beretta, you can do the Extension. That should hit one of those sport climbing energy systems for sure...

duncan

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#10 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 09:03:19 am
csl, mind how you go with that shoulder. Do you any supportive/conditioning exercises other than stretching?


STG - Rehab. finger. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - V4 on the Westway steep board by (mid) March. 7b in Siurana / Arboli in March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long free route somewhere interesting Iíve not visited before.
M - Pull-ups, general shoulder strengthening.
T - Westway: 300m to 5+. ĎAerocapí / rehab. on the autobelay
W - Pull-ups, stretches.
T - Westway: 350m to 6a. ĎAerocapí / rehab. on the autobelay.
F - Fingerboard (Left hand Ďpick up', 3 grips, to 37kg), stretches.
S - Pull-ups, general shoulder strengthening, child-wrangling.
S - Westway with tentative Spain partner: lead c.15 routes to 6b.

Another decent week: gradually ramping up the load on the finger. Pull-ups are going well: back to the 70s! Choosing friendly holds is still important to avoid lateral stresses on the joint. Itís vulnerable without buddy taping even for non-climbing things. Some way off bouldering which has scuppered the winter plans but I can be building a good endurance base and do lots of conditioning for the shoulder(s).
 
Plan: continue to increase the climbing volume.

Coops_13

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#11 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 09:08:40 am
M: Conditioning and antagonists
T: Arch - moonboard. 1 6B+, 1 6C, 1 6C+, 2 7A, 2 7A+. Had a play on the 50 after this
W: Conditioning and antagonists
T: Arch - moonboard. 3 6B+, 2 6C, 3 6C+, 6 7A, 2 7A+ 1 7B. Big session
F:
S: Almscliff - dry! Warmed up repeating Dolphin Belly Slap, tried some of the moves on Exorcist SuperShort. Went down and crushed Underhand 7B+ first proper go. Third session, pretty psyched but no vid of the screaming unfortunately. Retroflashed Crusis then did Virgin Traverse link into Crusis (new problem on UKC so why not...). Then went back up to DWR area and managed to stick the next move on Exorcist SS (with bicycle, uncrossing hands and slapping out left). Could be one to try again in future... Finished up doing some more eliminates under the Crucifix
S: Snowy so went to the Works. Had a play on the walls and a bit on the Motherboard, pretty tired though.

csl

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#12 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 09:18:45 am
Thanks nai, i tend to forget upper body stretches and concentrate on my legs so I'd better sort that out. Also didn't know the name for thread the needle and have been trying to remember that one for ages!

Duncan, I don't do a great deal of conditioning at the moment. I occasionally do the rings workout from Lattice but I'll try and make sure I do some more until my shoulder is back to normal.

Well done Coops, psyched you did underhand!

nai

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#13 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 09:38:44 am
Felt significantly easier than the other pair, morphology I guess.
just need to unlock the crucial beta on Colt and it feels fine
I've found the kneebar, not sure if it's cricket though.

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#14 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 09:49:35 am
STG: Get back into training
MTG: Picnic Sarcastic SS, Suavito, Simple Simon
LTG: 7C

62.5kg


Just got back from 3 weeks in Albarracin, completed the majority of my tick list with only 2 things not getting finished off (Fight Club and La Feunte), so I'll have to head back soon to finish these off it seems! Completed the hole trip without using tape for tendon issues which is a major win for me too!

M: Rest
T: Depot 30 board session
W: Boulder UK. Just pottered about really, nothing too difficult
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Boulder UK 55 board. Got spanked, but tried a lot, looking forward to getting on this board more. Hiked afterwards.
S: Rest


Coops_13

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#15 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 10:00:08 am
Felt significantly easier than the other pair, morphology I guess.
just need to unlock the crucial beta on Colt and it feels fine
I've found the kneebar, not sure if it's cricket though.
I never used a kneebar but I remember some kind of drop-knee right toe-hook being useful

nai

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#16 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 03:59:01 pm
Not sure I've ever done a drop-knee toe-hook. My logic reckons that would rotate my shoulder further away from the hold but could be wrong :blink:

Been and done Baretta today, can't be any harder than 6C. Not inspired by the exension though.  Colt and FIne Art varying degrees of damp but worked on Blind Bat and Last Stand.  Good to have four problems at the same grade to go at within 10m of each other.

Effort on Underhand, quality problem.




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#17 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 04:09:44 pm
Yeah you could be right haha, can't really remember what I did. The extension actually adds some good moves immediately after the normal crux, each harder than the crux of Beretta. The romp on slopey jugs is a bit of a ruiner and the RP crux mantle at the end of colt is good. I just did it after failed attempts on Bullet. Probably 7A+ for the extension...

shark

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#18 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 04:55:53 pm
Been and done Baretta today, can't be any harder than 6C.

 :lol:


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#19 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 08:06:29 pm
68.6kg

M- nil
T- 3hrs on Vanilla Sky in the rain = top wall soaked and dripping; linked the crux off the floor twice but with nowhere to go - dunno whether to be psyched or gutted.. decided to dispense with the cute deep egyptian and ďclimb strong, climb front onĒ..
W- nil, pigs escaped  >:(
T- Distracted by repairing damage from escaped pigs
DL - poor distracted session, also lost my headphones so no psyche - warmups to 200 but failed at 215 - 215 off 1Ē blocks..
Stoke AW - 1 hr problems; finished off one of the comp V7s I couldnít do.. flashed something not too hard on the moonboard..
F- nil, left middle MCP joint swollen like a walnut + painful ++ wtf
Drove to visit bro in wales
S- Visiting bro in Wales rain ++++ MCP joint still swollen and hurting; beginning to think itís irremedial arthritis and will never pull hard again  :'(
S- Home again; MCP arguably slightly better..

All a bit míeh

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#20 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 09:37:44 pm
Coops - thanks for sharing the psyche as always!
Measles - you must have been the only person bothering on Tuesday. Crazy mofo. The motivation sounds high. Hope youíre getting it on film.

My offering:

M-long day at work, 16kg kettlebells Simple and Sinister, 5 Minute Abs
T-the most rushed of works sessions, 20k cycle commute, 16kg S&S, 5MA
W-24kg swings/16kg get ups S&S, 5MA, 20k cycle
T-20k cycle, 8k run, works session making little impression on as yet unclimbed murples (6B?) then whizzed round the pinkles (Fb3?)
F-16/24kg S&S, 5MA
S-10k icy run, whizzed round the pinkles again then had the best fingerboard session in eighteen months! either that or, more likely, the works beastmaker is soft. Or their weights are light. Or warming up on pinkles is actually a really good idea. Iíll regurgitate the whole session here for the record:

Minute mark / hold / added weight / seconds
1/18mm/16kg/10
4/18/20/10
7/18/36/10
10/18/36/10
13/14/16/10
16/14/20/10
19/14/36/10
22/14/40/10 (this was the good one)
25/14/40/6
28/14/36/10

TMI for powerclub maybe? But that was a great fingerboard session I was stoked. After that I celebrated with a 20kg S&S still at the works. No problem with this weight despite wrist issues in the past.
S-10k run in the snow. Lacrosse ball stuff and 5MA.

67.3kg->66.8kg

Feels like the plan is coming together.

measles23

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#21 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 09:48:46 pm
TMI for powerclub maybe?
No such thing - bring on the data!
Shwirley its time to get back projecting on rock, youíre clearly in shape for it?

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#22 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 22, 2018, 10:13:47 pm
Yeah man it feels it. Surely sometime soon. A bit more boning down and Iíll get stuck in again in Feb. The aspiration is to get it ticked by April and move on with my life. Iím not rushing it - learned that mistake already.

Good luck with VS!

tommytwotone

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#23 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 08:43:11 am
Not a great deal from me - still dealing with a shanked shoulder.


Kept up the fasting apart from Weds when a stressful morning led to me cracking and having a bagel. Still no booze (last beer 1st Jan).


One gym session on Fri lunchtime, revived the 10k gymathlon - 5km bike, 3km run (@ 1 degree incline), 2km row. Didn't time it strictly but came in about 32 mins - all in 16hr fasted state.


Weighed myself on the gym scales and was at 66kg, which I'm sure is lighter than I have been but I didn't weight myself when I embarked on all this!




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#24 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 08:55:12 am
TMI for powerclub maybe?
No such thing - bring on the data!
Shwirley its time to get back projecting on rock, youíre clearly in shape for it?
:agree: Good to hear what makes fingers strong!