[shark]

Hello Paul 

11.3-5

M. Evening. Random circuits on steep circuit board mainly on the 6c+. Tried not to get competitive when JR joined in

T.  Evening. Fingerboard. Bit off scores from Sunday. Skin screaming

W. Evening. Hoped to go to Anston but skin still sore and weather not as good as forecasted. Did an AnCap set on board. Tried a second set put couldn't do crimpy start so did an Aero Cap 20/10 set instead

T. Noon. Wave. Short session. Mainly trying orange and black spot and wasp projects but off the pace

F.

S. Grey day, 4 degrees. Checked out cragx, Wet. Unsurprisingly. But you never know. Went to Tor. Zippy and Kristian on Tin Of. Weedkiller wet. Bouldered with another pair (Sandy and ?) on Ben's. Just tried start of Bens. Powered out quickly. Bad ideas not to take food. Managed start to pocket and pinch to kneebar. Stronger on it than a couple of years ago. First time outside this year. Back for more on Weds with Nick hopefully

S. Afternoon. AM Family stuff PM Intended doing an AnCap session on board but nudged to go out by boncon report Went to Remeregnce and reacquainted myself with Blind Date. Baltic. Hard to stay warm but velcro conditions. Best go getting left hand slot and slipping going from intermediate pebble to right hand slot. Not to shoddy. Eve Single deadlift 147.5kg failed at 150kg.Not enough skin to fingerboard

Good week. Still on the wagon. Wish I could find my antihydral

[shark]

did an Aero Cap 20/10 set instead

What does this mean?

Its an endurance exercise I find works well for me. 20moves 20secs rest, 10moves 10 secs rest x 4 = 120 moves. Ideally doing 3 sets with 10mins rest between sets

[tomtom]

Punter point for not playing the Power Club name game...

<wagging finger emoticon>

[csl]

this week

- lose .5kg tick
- 1 max hangs session tick
- 2x stretching - only 1 sesh, no tick
- do 50% of red circuit tick

this month

- lose christmas weight belt (1 ~ 1.5kg)
- hang 1 pad edge for 7.5secs @ 74kg
- do 75% of the red circuit at the arch in a session

this year

- 7C
- hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Mon

Evening wall session, not very focused. Repeated a few reds, worked on a couple of others and tried a 7B on the moonboard.

Tue

nothing

Wednesday

nothing

Thursday

nothing

Friday

Arch B1

Good session, felt strong.

Max hangs - forgot pulley again so not sure what assistance. Managed 3 x 5 seconds hangs on each arm
Did 5 more of the red circuit, this weeks goal ticked.

Saturday

Arch B1

Repeated quite a few reds - fell off with hand on last hold of 2 more.
Moonboard - flashed 3 7A's, had a couple of goes on a 7B and a 7C. Nearly did the 7B.

Sunday

Stretching

next week

- lose another 0.5kg to reach 74.5
- 5 second hang at 74kg on both arms, bring a pulley
- 2x stretching
- do 75% of red circuit

[Dolly]

M Kettlebells and core at gym. Upped weights and reps on at least half the circuit
T Fogtastic ride on cross bike
W Wave. Big session for me. Did all the problems that Shark couldn't do. Had a great time with Paul and Keith who are of course in situ there. Reminded me of how good it is. Looks like the weather is going to be rubbish this week so I'll be there again.
T Went for a run ! Quite enjoyed it actually
F Shed power. Started slowly but got into it and tried hard. Battered
S Gym doing kettlebells and core as well as some of the leg exercises for climbers from Climbing mag. First time I'd done a weighted Bulgarian split lunge - they're quite hard aren't they ?
S Buckstone. Spent most of the time trying to remember my sequence on Spring Voyage and then made the punter error of leaving my brush on a stick in the car so I couldn't clean the chalky slopy crimp.  Remembered it in the end and wrote it in my phone. Didnt get further than the crimp today, but I won't waste time or skin next session. Like Shark said it was baltic out

[shark]

did an Aero Cap 20/10 set instead

What does this mean?

Its an endurance exercise I find works well for me. 20moves 20secs rest, 10moves 10 secs rest x 4 = 120 moves. Ideally doing 3 sets with 10mins rest between sets

Thanks. Isn't Aero Cap supposed to be more continuous than that? Seems like a lot of resting. I am interested because I think I need to do some of this over the next month or two to build a base for Smith in April, and it seems impossible at our local wall, so I need to figure out something I can do on my system board.

Try it. It's pretty taxing. Continuous climbing either gets you pumped too quickly or is too easy. This intermittent routine allows you to be taxed for longer. On my systems board I use incut edges for the 10s and second joint slopey jugs for the 20s. I've found doing this to be better prep for sun rock sport trips than doing roped climbs at the wall and is particularly good for recovering at rests. Also you can slow yourself down by spending say 2 seconds on each hold - a metronome app is good for this.

[nai]

This sounds like High Intensity AeroCap - working fairly hard but not to failure.  I thinkk it should really be backed up by LI AeroCap also.

There's a proven method whereby runners work out their max heartrate and work at the bottom end and top end of their Aeroboc Capacity.  Then you'd do 80% of your training at the boring lower end and 20% at the higher end. Training in the mid-intensity zone isn't as effective.

https://www.runnersworld.com/rt-web-exclusive/train-at-the-right-intensity-ratio

Obviously in climbing MHR isn't much use so you have to go on feel: LI you'll be breathing comfortably and only mildly pumped; HI you'll be getting pumped but not to failure and probably grunting a bit towards the end of the session.  The Lattice crew work it out based on current onsight grade, I've found using this method varies according to angle, hold type (i.e. personal preferences) E.g. I can be in LI zone on a crimpy Furnace 6c but at HI on a steeper, slopey main wall 6c.  Tom does talk about it on one of his trainingbeta podcasts and there's an Epictv video about it too.

After great results previously I'm sold on continuing with this method, even during strength phases I continue with these workouts, they're both pretty much active rest days anyway, LI takes an hour (40 minutes contact time) and HI 20 minutes (10 mins contact time) plus a quick warm up.

[nai]

Immediate goals - training block starting with strength phase and psyched for bouldering again
LTG - stay injury free

M -
Thorough Warm up at home then to Mother Cap Quarry.  came close to CAPS LOCK, did all moves on PNC but didn't try it too much as it's so rough on skin.
 Too cold really, only had 2-3 attempts between removing shoes again to get dressed again
conditioning workout

T - conditioning program recovery workout . Massage.

W - LI AeroCap. 1/2 of conditioning workout

Th
Thorough warm up at home then to MCQ.  Did CAPS LOCK, PNC wet so home
6x10s weighted max hangs to establish a baseline
2nd 1/2 of conditioning workout

F rest

S - Fairly intense Wave session, managed the yellow L2 up the middle that I couldn't do last visit (xmas eve) plus 2 x L3s and generally felt pretty good.
Conditioning workout

S - condition program recovery day, felt a bit done in.

[shark]

Thanks nai - makes sense. I'll factor in some dreary L1 work too

[nai]

Think of it as an opportunity to work on technique & movement drills, you'll (possibly) be amazed at the marginal rests to be had using footwork and hips. Buy some work gloves, they save skin for better things and if you can't manager the moves wearing them them they're too hard.

[Murph]

M-kettlebells + 5 minute abs
T-6k jog, power hour at works (irn brus), kettlebells + 5 minute abs
W-kettlebells + 5 minute abs, max hangs up to 3x10s +24kg on 14mm. Was on +32kg last week and + 40kg back in Nov so not feeling strong.
T-7k jog, works (finally finished irn brus after finding the ones hiding in plain sight)
F-kettlebells
S-11k jog, quick session on the trackside boulder. First time on rock in a couple of months and forgot how much I love it. Didn't quite manage to re-tick sidetrack but surely it will go with a couple more attempts tomorrow...
S-finally got out to try sidetrack again after taking the kids swimming. Pro tip guys, don't go swimming before trying hard on a rock. Your fingertips will not be up to the task. Lesson learnt.

68.5 -> 67.3kgs

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7anything by end of year

Mixed week for me. Started an "window" fasting regime, and then got diagnosed with a pretty serious-sounding injury.


M: mad day, back to family stress, by the time we'd got the kids to sleep all we were fit for was a McDonald's and flopping on the sofa
T: start of "8 hr window" fast. Lunch at 12 Noon (chicken salad), then tea later on before
W: got to physio to check out painful shoulder I've had since Xmas. Seems to be a supraspinatus tear.
T: Nowt.
F: Gym on lunch. Bike, box jumps and goblet squats.
S Nowt.
S: awful night with Clem - managed 3.5hrs sleep, followed by a 4:30am 100 mile drive to get him back to sleep / prevent waking the whole house.

The fasting thing is actually OK, despite the fact I was convinced I'd be hungry I haven't been. Additionally I've been on the wagon for 2 weeks which is improving my happiness / general mood levels as well.

Shame about the shoulder - think I did it messing about in the swimming pool with Una - just a matter of time and physio I guess.

[GazM]

Crikey TTT, hope you catch up on some of that sleep.  Our Ben had his 4 month jabs last week so we had some pretty rough nights, but nothing as bad as that.

STG - do the two new problems at a local boulder in Strathconon that I've found.
MTG - find a better way to fit a couple of nights a week training on my board with Ben's bedtime routine.

Mon - nothing
Tues -  Afternoon: 1.5hr turbo session at the Strathconon boulder (need to find a name for it). Opened an account on a new problem I'd discovered on Sunday but the other one I was psyched for was covered in hoar frost  . Made some progress.   
Evening: Beastmaker deadhang session - 5 x 10secs on a mix of holds, up to + 9kg on the smalls
Weds - nothing
Thurs - 5km run at lunchtime, Beastmaker deadhang session in the evening.
Fri - nothing
Sat - nothing
Sun - 2hrs at Strathconon boulder. Bit drizzly but a good breeze kept it dry.  Now have a sequence for both problems but ran out of time to finish either. 

Not managed a board session this week which is annoying, but on the bright side I can't believe my luck to have found some brand new problems <20mins drive from home at this point in time when baby Ben is stealing all our time and sleep and going further for longer would be pretty selfish. No idea how hard they are as I've not climbed any established problems for months so struggle to compare, but they're putting up a fight for now.

[yetix]

STG: Get back into training
MTG: Picnic Sarcastic SS, Suavito, Simple Simon
LTG: 7C

61kg


Just got back from 3 weeks in Albarracin, completed the majority of my tick list with only 2 things not getting finished off (Fight Club and La Feunte), so I'll have to head back soon to finish these off it seems! Completed the hole trip without using tape for tendon issues which is a major win for me too!

M: Rest
T: Sent Eclipse 7B 3rd try
W: Worked Fight Club (Albarracin) extensively, dropped the last move a couple of times, had planned to go back to finish it off on the Thursday but snow decided this wasn't a possibility!
T: Too much snow to get out and climb
F: Drive back from Spain
S: Got back from Spain at 5:30am, couldn't sleep so went to the depot to do easy problems on the circles board to tire myself out
S: Hike/Rest

[Coops_13]

M: Landed from States at 0730. Arch, moonboard. 4 6B+, 1 6C, 4 7A, 1 7A+
T:
W: Arch, moonboard. 2 6B+, 2 6C, 3 7A, 2 7A+ 1 7B
T:
F:
S: Afternoon at the cliff taking gf outdoor climbing for first time. Managed to get on Underhand as well and proceeded to punter off the last move 5 times
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bd5XU7nH_ut/
S: Brimham with gf again. Managed Anchor Left-hand 7A and Black Chipper Arete, both very quickly

[duncan]

Simon, I recall a previous conversation here discussing what energy system your 20/10 protocol was probably training but searching isn’t throwing anything up. “It's pretty taxing” doesn’t sound like my understanding of Aerobic Capacity although it’s hard to judge degree of effort in a climbing context. “Continuous climbing either gets you pumped too quickly or is too easy” suggests you could play around with the intensity of the continuous climbing a little more?

STG - Rehab. finger. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - V4 on the Westway steep board by (mid) March. A 7b in Siurana /El Falco in March. Suggestions?
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; an exotic long, hard and free.

M - Pull-ups, stretches. Booked flights to Spain in March, yyfy.
T - Fingerboard (Left hand ‘pick up'), general shoulder strengthening
W - Westway: 300m super easy ‘Aerocap’ / rehab. on the autobelay
T - Stretches.
F - Fingerboard (Left hand ‘pick up'),
S - Westway with the retired super Alpinist, surprise guest appearance from The Economist: easy rehab. climbing.
S - Pull-ups, general shoulder strengthening, child-wrangling Mike Caldwell style.

Decent week: finger tolerating pulling down very gently and lifting iron not entirely gently.
 
Plan: usual story, gradually increase the volume initially then (a couple more weeks) up the intensity.

[shark]

Simon, I recall a previous conversation here discussing what energy system your 20/10 protocol was probably training but searching isn’t throwing anything up. “It's pretty taxing” doesn’t sound like my understanding of Aerobic Capacity although it’s hard to judge degree of effort in a climbing context. “Continuous climbing either gets you pumped too quickly or is too easy” suggests you could play around with the intensity of the continuous climbing a little more?

Aero Cap should be pretty taxing particularly at the upper end but getting pumped out nudges you out of AeroCap.

To quote barrows:

You’re probably familiar with ‘capillarising’ (often called ARC or SACC) which falls at the bottom of this spectrum – very gentle pump or simply an increase in blood flow with no real pump. Moving up the spectrum to the central region of Aero Cap we’re talking capillarising on steroids – you’ll be on steeper terrain or smaller holds, with a fairly significant level of pump but one which is always still manageable

Moreover the 20/10 exercise was suggested by Dave Binney as an AeroCap exercise.

[nai]

You've probably all seen it but just in case anyone hasn't, skip to a minute in and don't get upset when you work out what grade you should be performing LI at.

https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/lattice-training-the-20-minute-endurance-boost/605825

[abarro81]

20/10 is aerocap unless you screw up and make it too hard. I typically do ~1/3 of my aero time pootling (ARC), 1/3 continuous aerocap stuff and 1/3 split intensity (normally something like 2 min on 1 min off, or 2 min hard 1 min easy for a block of 10-40 min.. but the 20/10 thing is split intensity aero cap like this). I don't think my original doc included much (any?) discussion of split intensity aero cap... I'll write an update one day once I've won the lottery and become a full timer.

[duncan]

Thanks everyone, extremely helpful.  I've absorbed the message to not climb to failure the whole time (as I did in my 20s and 30s, blame Tony Yaniro) but probably over-compensated. I'm very happy what constitutes low intensity aerocap/ARC and it's been effective at increasing the time I can hang on to rock. It's also good rehab.

Sounds like could add a little more moderate intensity (but still aerobic) work. On reflection, a previous fitness peak followed a spell of doing easy bouldering circuits "on the minute" (usually ~40s climbing up and down, ~20s rest): 40 problems in 40 minutes, not pumped but definitely having to try. I guess that constitutes another kind of split intensity aerocap.

[tomtom]

M:
Tu:
We: Was hoping to go to Anston in the morning - but shit weather. So Stockport wall for a change. Not much had changed, but had a good work out on some stiff V5's...
Th:
Fr: Peak looked clagged so headed to Craig-Y-Longridge. Mostly dry and finally managed my first 7 at the place... (not how Probes does it on his video - as I discovered afterwards....)



Sa: Weekend with MrsTT's extended family - at a large house at the top of Monsal Dale \o/ Arrived for breakfast, bit of a walk, nice lunch and nipped out to Rubcon at 3pm for a cheeky hour.
Su: Managed to nip out to Curbar in the morning - hurting now as 3rd day on rock - but managed to scrape my way up a couple of things on the Bad Landing boulder..

[Yossarian]

STG - Slim down
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - tbc

Monday - 6.5mile run / less walking
Tuesday - Nothing
Wednesday - 6.5mile run
Thursday - Bit of kettlebell shoulders, curls, etc
Friday - 6.5mile run
Saturday - Wall 2 1/2hrs. Feeling the effects of being heavy and out of shape. Intended to focus on easy circuits and aero cap. Ended up battling with crimps. Need more discipline.
Sunday - Kettlebells and stretching

Weight: 102.2kg to 101.3kg. The intermittent fasting is great in terms of morning productivity, but was hoping for more like 2kg weight drop a week in these early stages. Hey ho.
Swanage trad planned for a fortnight’s time. Will probably get freaked out and vow never to return like previous visits, but trying to remain optimistic.

[measles23]

Hi all

68.4kg - thought I was doing well and was going to declare fat wars on murph but realised I’d only lose

M- nul
T- Stoke AW 1hr wall probs, 1hr moonboard - Great low gravity session, couldn’t stop sending stuff - did one of Dom’s probs on the board (7Cish) and did the V8 in the cave roof, and did a bunch of V7s - think I flashed one..
W- nul
T- DL 12 sets still taking it easy at 90% 1rm - 3 singles at 210, 3 singles at 200 - felt good, consolidating new hip position - no balance issues for a change, no sciatica..
30 min cardio
German national team forearm curls (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28340.0.html) - 7 sets up to 3x(+30x8) = hmmm
F- nul
S- Max hangs BM micros: 11 sets including 3x(+40kgx3s)
S- Stoke AW 2hrs - quick dash round saturdays comp circuit - scored 235 on 30 prob circuit; would have placed 6th..
Cinema = Star Wars enjoyed by all

Back on project on Tuesday super excited

[Sasquatch]

M-Skate Ski, started a mFB workout, but sacked it as fingers/shoulder felt weak
T-Yoga, AnCap, AeroCap 3x10min
W-Skate Ski, Light bouldering
T-Yoga, FB, moonboard for extra volume 20 probs up to v7
F-Light Bouldering and AeroCap mainly active recovery type work. although I did a balance v8.
S-Skate Ski
S-started FB, but fingers/shoulder not likely it. did an easy yoga and bike session to get body moving.

The body/mind is not digging the fb at the moment.  I guess I'll listen and move to something else.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1 third week of second cycle, 8 x 66 kg. Ugly, just before starting the first set, while I was doing some recruitment jumps, I landed straight on my right toe and hurt it. Felt it while lifting.
Thu - weights.
Fri - ab wheel and snatch pulls complex, back to back.
Sat - rest. Kind of...  rode my motorcycle for 230 kms!
Sun - foot on campusing, front3, back3, front2, mid 2; one arm hangs; muscle snatch. Beautiful session with friends.