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Where to go? Mid-8s during late-April (Read 2764 times)

bendavison

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Where to go? Mid-8s during late-April
January 10, 2018, 08:40:38 am
Dear collective ukb knowledge,

Any suggestions of where is great for 8a+ to b+ in the second half of April. Ideally somewhere that's quite cheap and has reliable weather.

Currently aware of Osp/Misja Pec, St leger, Ramirole and Kalymnos (not that cheap..). Less reliable weather wise, but I guess Malham could be good then? Any other ideas? Anyone keen?

Cheers!

ghisino

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My experience with st léger is that seepage may be a bigger problem than the weather during your stay. This may be even more critical during late april as the best warm weather sectors (face nord, la baleine) are also the ones featuring the most tufas. Face Est may also be really good in the afternoon, and less prone to seepage (though two of the best routes, "dis moi..."  and le Nabab, suffer from long-drying water streaks)

Tarn is a great alternative and weather wise it is just the opposite...less climbable if it's raining, but dries faster.


Accommodation tips for at leg:
-if you have a van stay in the designated van area, just after the village on the right inside (driving from the crag)

Otherwise, the gite on the crag's parking lot is hard to beat http://bergerie-des-salamandres.com/




« Last Edit: January 10, 2018, 09:22:15 am by ghisino »

bendavison

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Thanks for the tips Ghisino. I didn't realise that the best bits of St Leger could be seepy then, but makes sense. Do you know if the same is true for Ramirole in Verdon? Tarn is an option, but I've been quite a few times already and didn't think there were many 8b's? It's also pockets, which I'm rubbish on!

That gite looks mega!

Teaboy

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I can't comment on the grades you're interested in but I do remember us struggling to find shade at Osp and Misja Pec.

jwi

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Do you know if the same is true for Ramirole in Verdon? Tarn is an option, but I've been quite a few times already and didn't think there were many 8b's? It's also pockets, which I'm rubbish on!


Ramirole is probably well wet in April. At least, it was quite wet last year at that time.

Tarn is not great for 8b or harder. Don't think there are more than a handful 8bs.

 

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