[moose]

Due to a recent NNFN!, I can't weight my right wrist for at least 2 weeks, which might stretch to a couple of months.  I'm not sure if I'm more pissed-off by the possibility of a fractured scaphoid from a "fall on out-stretched hand", or that it is such a common injury that it has a widely accepted acronym (FOOH injury) - I'm not only injured, I'm cliched!

Lots of long walks to look longingly at crags are probably in the pipe-line but I feel I should also address some climbing weaknesses.  Within a couple of days of the injury, I already had a calibration session for assisted left-arm max hangs (my left hand is my weakest, and I always suspected my right was taking the bulk of the load during two arm max hangs, so this seems a good time to redress the balance). 

But my other big weakness is core - specifically maintaining tension across holds and getting feet back on after cutting loose - my long, thin body has the rigidity of two week-old celery.  I now can't do leg raises or ab-wheel rollouts, so any recommendations for floor work-outs?  Is ab-ripper any good - I'm sure I could cope with the hideous branding if it got results.  Any ideas / links to videos / routines welcome - particularly those that could be good for "maintenance" after I'm (hopefully) healed - e.g. 15-30 mins that might give benefits if slotted in after work, one or two times a week.

[Paul B]

Dishes?

[Fiend]

Poor Moose

If you've got a gym, maybe they have one of these frames in which you don't need to use wrists:



Or these....



Planks, side-planks, superman planks, all sorts of stuff lying on your back / side raising your legs (with added weights etc). Yoga?? 

[Footwork]

If you have a TRX or rings you can put your feet in them in plank position. Loads of core exercises and variations you can do.

Ab Ripper X is for kings only. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

Yours
the ripped king

[J_duds]

Crap eh! I've got a duff elbow (partial tore tendon), and have found keeping it immobile during other exercises reduced the pain.  These two core sets with a few minor tweaks to stop my elbow rotating seem to work for me:





I've also been doing alot more cycling and leg stretching, just to stop me going insane as I can't sit still for long! I'm not sure what I'll do when I'm older or fully broken!

Good luck with the healing.

I'm interested to see what other people suggest too.

[moose]

Cheers Fiend. I'm not keen on going to the gym to be honest - misery does not love company, and I can't pull off the necessary vest wearing!

Planks, superman etc would be suitable,  but wondering if there if are any good pre-made programs I could follow, perhaps incorporating those or similar movements. I find it easier to keep to structured regimens - if there isn't a pre-set number of exercises and reps I tend to stop when bored or tired... which is usually pretty early!

[moose]

Bit if a cross post situation.  Cheers for the TRX suggestions. I do have a TRX and have never used if for feet. So,  at least that would have some novelty. 

[Fiend]

How about a tight long sleeve Underarmour top with a hefty weight vest over the top for a.....particular gym look?

[moose]

How about a tight long sleeve Underarmour top with a hefty weight vest over the top for a.....particular gym look?

Tempting.... it reeks of the sweaty-strong quality I lack.  My current apparel when climbing is tropical / Aloha shirts.  A choice last March, when I thought "Covid might have forced me to become a rambler but I'm going to wear the least rambler-ish tops I can think of" (it was also a tribute to Kansas City Chiefs' Superbowl winning coach and seeming "good guy" Andy Reid).  Shame they've now got associations with the US far-right group, the "proud Boys". Hey ho.. I'm now going to google search for compression tops and weight vests with hibiscus patterns.

[spidermonkey09]

I haven't done ab ripper for a few months and my core is currently the worst its been in ages. Get stuck in moose.

[moose]

I haven't done ab ripper for a few months and my core is currently the worst its been in ages. Get stuck in moose.

If ab-ripper is actually effective (unfortunately for anyone with standards of taste), do you have any suggested videos?

[webbo]

When I had my shoulder repaired I would walk one day 10 to 15 miles after I built up to it. Next day turbo trainer for an hour. Other things depend on your dominate hand.
I didn’t bother trying to do any climbing type training. However I got back to to where I was before the injury in a couple of months.

[cheque]

Here’s Ab Ripper X. I don’t personally recommend it as it’s full of stuff that hurts my back but it is funny.



I got back on the Swiss ball workout this winter and I think that’s far better and doesn’t set anything off even in my wonky body. Very satisfying as what you’re doing changes every week so as well as getting the “used to feel tough, now it’s easy” element it’s also gradually ramping up. Some of it requires wrists though and some puts you in danger of a repeated FOOSH so you’ll have to adapt it.

[moose]

I'm pretty hopeful after a similarish time last year.  Until the break (figurative and possibly literally), I was having my best bouldering season for at least 10 years.

I suspect the time during the preceding lockdown, spent doing lots of basic exercises and some fingerboarding, was the platform for that success. Obviously, not climbing or using my right hand is pretty crap,  but I'm  hopeful I can come back pretty quick,  and possibly with some other weaknesses lessened.

[User deactivated.]

Assuming your goal is to get strong rather than fit then intense, heavy, low-ish rep exercises with lots of rest between sets will be most effective.

Hanging leg raises holding the bar with 1 arm. 4 sets of 6-12 reps. Progression over time goes from legs bent with knees to chest, legs straight with toes to bar, then hold weight between ankles.

Arch body holds for the lower / mid back and side plank variations to hit the muscles on your sides. 30 second holds. I don't really rate these exercises but you can't deadlift.

And not technically core but equally important in body tension is the posterior chain including glutes and hamstrings, so you could add single leg glute bridges. 4 sets of 6-12 reps.

[Eddies]

Here’s Ab Ripper X. I don’t personally recommend it as it’s full of stuff that hurts my back but it is funny.

Ab-RipperX is a brilliant core w/out.... I need to get back into it.