[Nibile]

Happy New Power Club Year!

Mon - system static, full crimp, brilliant. Various weighted carries. Tired.
Tue - light one foot campusing, two fingers. Empty bar work. Light boxing bag.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1 first week of second cycle. Training max 70 kg. 11 x 60 kg.
Thu - rest.
Fri - ab wheel one set of 50; Snatch pulls 46 kg, one EMOM set 5 x 5, one at 30"; weights. Nice intense session.
Sat - rest, rode my motorcycle in the rain, felt like a boss.
Sun - boxing bag, very hard both physically and mentally.

[shark]

Happy new year Nibs!

M. Snowboard
T. Snowboard
W. Snowboard
T.
F. Snowboard
S. Travel
S. Anston with Ben. Met MarkR there. Repeated goes on first couple of moves of Soul Crusher again. Ben made good progress getting out to the first slot in the rail but strained a bicep. I ragged my skin. Good undercut training

Super Xmas break in catered chalet at St Anton. Plenty of time to go through old power club entries etc to gather clues of what I need to do differently to get up the Oak. Although I drank a bottle of wine  each night I cut down on carbs (including free apres ski cake) and skipped lunch so came back 3lbs lighter at 11st4lb which is the lightest I've been for a while.

Even started noting food and booze intake. Intending to go dry for January at least and get sub 11stone and stay there. Had the same aim last year but failed so hope resolve stronger this time. Big meal and fine wine last night and then have to brave home cooking in Devon later this week will require extra restraint then back at work on 8th and training in earnest.

Feeling focussed and optimistic.

[nai]

Happy New guys, this is the year, right?

M  nowt
T - hour bouldering in garage. Mobility
W Mobility. Fingerboard
Th - LI AeroCap
Fr AM HI AeroCap - PM travel 6 hours to South Scotland
S travel another 4+ hours to Spean Bridge
S mobility

[TobyD]

Happy New year everyone! 

M  yeah right. No training on Christmas Day! Especially since I had a filthy cold.
T - still feeling grotty
W campussing at the Bunker
Th drove up to Sheffield, couple of hours on the wave when I got there.
Fr work, moon board and a few wave problems in the evening
S auto belays, tried the 7b twice. Grim 7 hour epic drive down to Devon; M1 closed for 2 hours.
S 30 minute run before breakfast

[Sasquatch]

I'm back on the wagon - Hopefully it'll stick a bit better this time around. 

MTG - Two old projects bolted in the 1990's.  One by me, the other by someone else.  both in the 5.14a-5.14c range. 

Monday - a few pullups and lever pulls, nit much though.
Tuesday - Backcountry ski day - amazing powder and blue skies
Wednesday - Bouldering - new set up to v9, also OS a 5.12+ to show a couple of students the sequences.  (they thought i was bonkers, but then I did it exactly as i'd suggested from the ground )
Thursday - First play on the new Moonboard setup at mates house - Did all of the new benchmarks up to v7, and a couple of v8's.  interesting set.  need to get the new wood holds.
Friday - Aerocap - first aerocap session and t felt pretty good 3 x 15min, first set mostly 5.10, second set all 5.11, third set  split 5.10/5.11 
Saturday - Bouldered, then AnCap work - 1:1 work/rest ratio 3 sets of 4 reps. First set on a v6, then a nails v7, then a v8.  Actually felt better and better as the workout went on, until the last rep of the v7, but managed all 4 reps of the v8.  Surprised myself. 
Sunday - Pull-ups, Lever, Body weight conditioning work.  about an hour total.  lots of balance and stability work.

[Murph]

Happy New Year power clubbers.

M-9k run
T-11k run
W-7k run
T-7k run. Runs all felt fine. Was at inlaws and on childcare all week so little chance of doing anything more productive without more of an imagination.
F-quick works session.
S-half decent works session. Jumping problems. Not sure what relevance to real world but think I learnt something. Kettlebells. Dishes.
S-Kettlebells. Dishes. Fingerboard max hangs up to a paltry +32kg for 7 seconds on 14mm.

Next year Rodney.

[csl]

Happy new year - going to get back involved!

this month

- lose christmas weight belt (1 ~ 1.5kg)
- hang 1 pad edge for 7.5secs @ 74kg
- do 75% of the red circuit at the arch in a session

this year

- 7C
- hands flat on floor with legs straight + various flexibility benchmarks

Mon

nothing

Tue

nothing

Wednesday

Arch - biscuit factory. Repeated quite a few Reds and messed around on some other problems.

Thursday

nothing

Friday

nothing

Saturday

walked 4 miles

Sunday

walked 10 miles

Next week

- do 50% of the red circuit
- 1 max hangs session
- stretch x3

[tomtom]

Its all a bit of a blur - but somehow, I think I managed to go to
(a) the Depot
(b) do some fingerboarding at the cottage we stayed at for new year

Encouragingly weight has only risen 2-3lbs...

January is going to be a hard month to stay in shape.... I'm away every weekend, two of which being included in a 9 day (including travel) work trip to Australia

[Bradders]

Happy New Year all!

I took a week and a half almost completely off any physical activity and hated it, so got back on it last week feeling heavy but psyched.

STG - Dark Art, Crazy Legs Crome, get stronger legs for skiing at the end of Jan
MTG - high 7s not my normal style on grit, Lager3 & Ben's Groove Sit in particular
LTG - so much to do, so little time

M - Christmas day veg plus short walk
T - Boxing day meal then short session at the Depot, did a fair bit of volume including lots of purples
W - Depot, tried climbing on the 50' briefly and could barely do my warm ups. Sacked it and did what I think the kids are calling an 'aerocap' session. Basically went round the circuit board 6 times, resting equal to climbing time, 3x 6c and 3x 6b. Man alive I was pumped by the end but didn't fail any circuit.
T - rest
F - 50' board session at the Depot. Better than Weds but still struggled a fair bit. Did my warm ups at least.
S - rest
S - Anston Stones. Perfect last climbing day of the year, mint conditions being cold but not too cold, nice breeze and sunshine. Opened an account on Dark Art (8A) and had a good first session. Did all the moves and made a couple of half decent links. Turns out the bit I thought would be hard actually isn't too bad, whereas the first couple of moves are nails. Also repeated Alpha (7B) first go and ran up Beta Blocker (7A) a couple of times.

[Nutty]

Weight: 68.4kg

STG: Train more regularly, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

Two weeks to report:

18-24th December

M: Rest.
T: Run. 5 x 1km intervals with 2min slow paced rest.
W: Rest.
T: Run. 22.5km at steady pace (4:47/km)
F: Rest.
S: Rest.
S: Easy-paced off-road night-time 10km.

25th-31st:

Not much. Couple of walks with the family is about the sum of it.

Week before Christmas was good, though have started to feel a niggle with my left knee: need to get back into my strengthening exercises. Too much traveling around over Christmas to get much in, but the rest probably did me good. Put on a kilo over Christmas.

[shark]

S - Anston Stones. Perfect last climbing day of the year, mint conditions being cold but not too cold, nice breeze and sunshine. Opened an account on Dark Art (8A) and had a good first session. Did all the moves and made a couple of half decent links. Turns out the bit I thought would be hard actually isn't too bad, whereas the first couple of moves are nails. Also repeated Alpha (7B) first go and ran up Beta Blocker (7A) a couple of times.

 

Must have been you at the far end with Paul Reeve and Karl Bacon from the foundry when I went for a wander

[duncan]

Happy New Year everyone.

STG - Rehab. finger. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - V4 on the Westway steep board by March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; an exotic long, hard and free.

M - Shoulder stretches. Hearty hike up Arthur’s Seat.
T - Shoulder stretches. Hearty hike up Blackford Hill.
W - Kyloe-in with HG. Dank and cold. Wondered about the wisdom of spending £40 on a train ticket. Took a long time to warm up but, slowly, got into things and managed Bad Finger, Bad Company and the brilliant Crucifix traverse. Relocated to Bowden Doors, bitterly cold and windy but glorious sky and almost warm rock. Crimped up the lovely Y Front Direct (about 6B in reality). Retired for tea and flapjack, thinking money well spent.   
T - Shoulder stretches. Hearty hike up Scald Law in impressively sub-arctic conditions.
F - Pull-ups. Shoulder strengthening/stability.
S - Pull-ups. Westway aerocap: ~425m climbing.
S - Shoulder stretches. Shoulder strengthening/stability.

Bonus M - Pull-ups. Max. hangs. Twatted ring finger slipping over in the mud, stupidly trying to carry the lad to keep him out of the mud.

Kept things more than ticking over Christmas, great to grab a wonderful day on the sandstone. I also got to land on an “age appropriate bouldering pad” (a Snap Wrap). Wow! I’d thought ankle and hip arthritis had ruled out proper bouldering but I might have to rethink this. Can you get one through a loft door?

Tested pull-ups recently and I can’t manage more than one. This seems a bit low, and since I’m aiming to do more basic strength work in general, this is a very obvious exercise to include.

Finger is red and swollen but flexor unit is fine so probably lateral collateral ligament / capsule sprain. I can be usefully doing some extra left arm stuff to correct the imbalance between sides and, buddy taped, should be able to hold a bar in a week or so. Gentle climbing in 2-3 weeks?

[tommytwotone]

Goal - Font7anything


M: Nowt, got a new 20kg kettlebell for Xmas though!
T: Nowt
W: 50 x KB swings, 50 x KB squats
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Took Clem to Climbing Lab with good results - on and off but he happily sat and watched me climb for a couple of hours.
S:Pass out but weather not looking great - took a Depot session instead, bit of pottering.


Managed a fair bit despite it being the Xmas period. As everyone else, drank a fair bit and ate a fair bit so Jan is going to be booze-free and I'm on a mission to step up the exercise again.

[Coops_13]

M
T
W: Arch, strong session on 50, sent a proj
T
F: another good session, retroflashed proj from W and made good progress on a new one
S
S: walking round NYC

[Bradders]

Must have been you at the far end with Paul Reeve and Karl Bacon from the foundry when I went for a wander

Twas indeed, although I'd never met them before they'd asked for some beta and I ended up feeling a bit showy by boshing it out first go. Good scenes.