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Aims for 2018 (Read 49488 times)

petejh

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#75 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 11:41:20 am
You can pad the landing to some extent but you'd still need to land well. I was once soloing it behind Leo and Ben when Leo (who was going first, of course) fell off and took Ben out. I just had time to jump clear. But we were all fine.

I love the glaring contrast between your working life running a business teaching work-at-height safety, and what you do for recreation!

tommytwotone

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#76 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 11:50:43 am
You can pad the landing to some extent but you'd still need to land well.

As I've resisted any offers of seconding it in the interests of claiming a degree of ethical integrity I think I really want to do it sans pads for the "proper" tick . Aware this makes me an idiot though.

The bigger barrier (as is frequent with me) is the reach. I know it eases rapidly but that first move feels ridiculously stretched.

cheque

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#77 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 11:53:32 am
It's a few weeks since I last did Long John's but I don't remember the heather bush being any bigger than normal or in need of trimming.

That's cool, I just thought it looked massive when I was there the weekend before last but having never done the route I'm not best placed to judge!

Wood FT

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#78 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 12:20:43 pm
You can pad the landing to some extent but you'd still need to land well.

As I've resisted any offers of seconding it in the interests of claiming a degree of ethical integrity I think I really want to do it sans pads for the "proper" tick . Aware this makes me an idiot though.

The bigger barrier (as is frequent with me) is the reach. I know it eases rapidly but that first move feels ridiculously stretched.

Yeah with lack of reach as you start you step right above the voidddddd*


*2m drop

Johnny Brown

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#79 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 12:47:45 pm
There is a nice way of doing it without the massive stretch. It is had to make yourself do it though, rather than just have another tickle of the crimps first.

I love the glaring contrast between your working life running a business teaching work-at-height safety, and what you do for recreation!

 ;D

SA Chris

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#80 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 02:25:28 pm

Only advice I could give is don't try to rush it carrying on with / keeping climbing once bambino arrives - in my experience you'll only get frustrated. Put the grades and the aspirations to one side for a bit, enjoy climbing for climbing's sakes if and when you get out.

Get your family shizz right, and once it's all settled down you can refocus. And don't underestimate the impact of sleep deprivation on you directly / you as a result of strife from your other half as a result of her being sleep deprived.


This. A newborn places enough stress on you, your partner and your relationship both physically and mentally that there is nothing wrong with dropping down a gear or two for a while and coming back more psyched and more appreciative of the time when it becomes available. Alternatively shift your focus to something less time consuming to get your endorphin fix - a short run for example or a fingerboard or weights session is easier to fit in than a long wall or crag session. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

rginns

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#81 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 07:36:25 pm

Only advice I could give is don't try to rush it carrying on with / keeping climbing once bambino arrives - in my experience you'll only get frustrated. Put the grades and the aspirations to one side for a bit, enjoy climbing for climbing's sakes if and when you get out.

Get your family shizz right, and once it's all settled down you can refocus. And don't underestimate the impact of sleep deprivation on you directly / you as a result of strife from your other half as a result of her being sleep deprived.


This. A newborn places enough stress on you, your partner and your relationship both physically and mentally that there is nothing wrong with dropping down a gear or two for a while and coming back more psyched and more appreciative of the time when it becomes available. Alternatively shift your focus to something less time consuming to get your endorphin fix - a short run for example or a fingerboard or weights session is easier to fit in than a long wall or crag session. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

Both good pièces of advice ! Having done this 3 times,  I'm averaging about 18 months before getting out in any decent quantity... Take the wins when they come but understand it sometimes comes way down the list!
Good luck with everything
 

JohnM

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#82 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 10:13:49 pm
Climbing aims

1. Climb at least 1 boulder from the boulder bucket list.
2. Climb at least 1 trad climb from the trad climb bucket list.
3. Sport climb >= 8b+
4. Try a sport climb >= 8c
5. Climb at a new place/country - maybe Mišja Peč and/or South Africa.
6. Climb a big multipitch somewhere

Non-climbing aims

1. Get more clients for the business + secure some more interesting projects.
2. Move somewhere I can go climbing, running, skiing and mountain biking from the doorstep.
3. Sub 40 minute 10k.
4. Big run in the mountains >= double marathon.
5. Ski tour.

TobyD

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#83 Re: Aims for 2018
January 20, 2018, 09:58:13 am

2. Move somewhere I can go climbing, running, skiing and mountain biking from the doorstep.


Sheffield would qualify lately, you could have skied along the Burbage road at about 5pm yesterday.
My guess is that Chamonix, Ailefroide etc was more what you had in mind?

Some friends live in Antibes, you can't ski from the doorstep, but its a doable day trip, and they do weekends all the time.
I think the best choice might be Boulder CO, but then you have to deal with US immigration / working conditions / healthcare....

petejh

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#84 Re: Aims for 2018
January 20, 2018, 11:21:44 am
The answer is clearly Fort William. Poor you  :sick:

tomtom

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#85 Re: Aims for 2018
January 20, 2018, 12:31:39 pm

Only advice I could give is don't try to rush it carrying on with / keeping climbing once bambino arrives - in my experience you'll only get frustrated. Put the grades and the aspirations to one side for a bit, enjoy climbing for climbing's sakes if and when you get out.

Get your family shizz right, and once it's all settled down you can refocus. And don't underestimate the impact of sleep deprivation on you directly / you as a result of strife from your other half as a result of her being sleep deprived.


This. A newborn places enough stress on you, your partner and your relationship both physically and mentally that there is nothing wrong with dropping down a gear or two for a while and coming back more psyched and more appreciative of the time when it becomes available. Alternatively shift your focus to something less time consuming to get your endorphin fix - a short run for example or a fingerboard or weights session is easier to fit in than a long wall or crag session. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

Or work less.... I work 50% and since TT jnr has come along I still manage to get out (or to the wall) 2-3 times a week - and have managed to maintain my performance if not increase...

But, only working 2.5 days (and mrsTT only works 2.5 days) gives us the flexibility to have some time for ourselves (e.g. climbing - for me) and look after and enjoy spending time with the bairn. I completely understand that this is not financially feasible for many ~ just that there is time - but something has to give...

Doylo

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#86 Re: Aims for 2018
January 20, 2018, 12:49:11 pm
You can only do two things well. So out of work, family and climbing something has to go. They’re packing their bags in the morning...

T_B

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#87 Re: Aims for 2018
January 20, 2018, 02:09:32 pm

Only advice I could give is don't try to rush it carrying on with / keeping climbing once bambino arrives - in my experience you'll only get frustrated. Put the grades and the aspirations to one side for a bit, enjoy climbing for climbing's sakes if and when you get out.

Get your family shizz right, and once it's all settled down you can refocus. And don't underestimate the impact of sleep deprivation on you directly / you as a result of strife from your other half as a result of her being sleep deprived.


This. A newborn places enough stress on you, your partner and your relationship both physically and mentally that there is nothing wrong with dropping down a gear or two for a while and coming back more psyched and more appreciative of the time when it becomes available. Alternatively shift your focus to something less time consuming to get your endorphin fix - a short run for example or a fingerboard or weights session is easier to fit in than a long wall or crag session. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

Or work less.... I work 50% and since TT jnr has come along I still manage to get out (or to the wall) 2-3 times a week - and have managed to maintain my performance if not increase...

The problem is if you used to be a fanatical climber you could always have more, more, more. I know folk who don’t work anything like full time, have kid/s and are still constantly frustrated. Kids end up going to school. All very restrictive. If you try and hang onto the life you had before kids you’re doomed IMO.

teestub

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#88 Re: Aims for 2018
January 20, 2018, 05:43:51 pm
is Squamish property super expensive? I know Vancouver is meant to have crazy property prices and I guess you could commute from Squamish.

JohnM

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#89 Re: Aims for 2018
January 20, 2018, 09:37:38 pm
I had't considered BC for 2 reasons. Firstly I thought it might frustratingly wet and also I didn't know if I could get a visa to work/reside there. I thought I was too old (34) now to qualify easily for a visa. Having said that I have a mate two years younger than me who has got a visa and he has to go over this year to use it or lose it. Also I am getting some interest from BC based civil engineering companies so there might be work options.

A lot of the work i'm involved with is based out of London, Munich and Zurich so the latter two could be good longer term options. I was also considering Innsbruck if I can maintain my remote work and just go to London or wherever every so often.

The final option is renting with a mate who is moving back to Marseilles in which case there will be a lot of the desired options but with a bit of driving. Also I have heard that if you enroll on a French course you can fast track to residency in 2 years with both France and Sweden being the easiest places to obtain residency.   


Sasquatch

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#90 Re: Aims for 2018
January 21, 2018, 09:57:40 pm
tahoe is pretty amazing for all of the above as well

SA Chris

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#91 Re: Aims for 2018
January 22, 2018, 10:28:33 am
Aberdeen. Plus surfing :)

petejh

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#92 Re: Aims for 2018
January 22, 2018, 11:13:19 am
Just remembered I lived in Canmore for almost 4 years. Go there, they sort of speak English and you can do everything as long as it's limestone.

Footwork

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#93 Re: Aims for 2018
February 03, 2018, 11:53:56 am
Not done these yet

Climbing aims

- 8A on the blocs again
- 3 routes off the sport bucket list
- E6 in any style

Non climbing aims

- Write more often
- remain gainfully employed post qualification
- do up the house

Will Hunt

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#94 Re: Aims for 2018
February 03, 2018, 12:17:21 pm
- E6 in any style

If you do Great Flake above pads and try and tick this goal you're getting puntered.

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#95 Re: Aims for 2018
February 03, 2018, 01:34:04 pm
If you do anything in any style other than the style it's actually graded for, you're getting puntered. Obviously.

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#96 Re: Aims for 2018
February 03, 2018, 09:01:28 pm

General fitness

3. Sort out current elbow nigggles, get weight down under at least 11st 5lb & stay injury free.


Not going well on this so far.  Have hardly climbed since Xmas (maybe once a week), doing antag exercises and left elbow still feels crap - pretty sure it’s golfers.

Not climbing means I’ve got no incentive not to drink beer and eat loads, so haven’t shifted the extra Xmas weight either.  :wall:

On the plus side I’ve got back into running a bit (purely cos I can’t go climbing) and cardio wise I’m probably the fittest I’ve been for a few years.

r-man

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#97 Re: Aims for 2018
February 03, 2018, 09:56:06 pm
I'm having a similar elbow induced hiatus. Have had a few weeks off climbing, plus doing various eccentric exercises (lowering weights - wrist and bicep reverses, and the stick exercise). Not fixed yet, but elbows do seem to be improving - e.g. this week I haven't woken up with sore elbows, and light weights no longer cause pain. Have you looked into these rehab exercises? They seem to me to work better than hammering the antagonists, or even just having a break.

kingholmesy

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#98 Re: Aims for 2018
February 03, 2018, 10:12:40 pm
Yeah, when I said antags what I actually meant was that I was doing these sort of exercises - reverse wrist curls, those exercises turning your wrist with a small weight on a stick, using those power fingers things etc.

I thought I was on the mend, but went to the wall today and felt as bad as ever.

Pain is from the boney tip of my left elbow, down the outside of my forearm. Holding a kettle full of water with an outstretched arm is a killer.

Anyone got any suggestions?  Stop whinging and go to a physio presumably ...

r-man

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#99 Re: Aims for 2018
February 03, 2018, 10:23:42 pm
Outside of elbow is tennis elbow. The golfer's elbow exercises won't help you...

Pain on inside of elbow is golfer's elbow. Or is that what you mean?


 

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