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Aims for 2018 (Read 49475 times)

Richie Crouch

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#50 Re: Aims for 2018
January 03, 2018, 05:35:20 pm
Aims!

1. Get out on UK rock more than 12 sessions per year (an embarrassing realisation of last years efforts)
2. Get on some 8A/+ in the hills and start trying hard again
3. Go make the effort to walk into and tick off some newish Welsh classics: Zeno & Manou, to name but two.
4. Keep doing my physio exercises at least 1-2 times per week to keep back and shoulders healthy.
5. Shoot a sub 80 round at Llandudno.

Doylo

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#51 Re: Aims for 2018
January 03, 2018, 05:57:38 pm

3. Go make the effort to walk into and tick off some newish Welsh classics: Zeno & Manou, to name but two

Keen for Zeno.

AJM

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#52 Re: Aims for 2018
January 03, 2018, 06:21:45 pm
7b+: The Jimi Hendrix Experience? Bird of Paradise/Paradise Lost? Both in the right places and have emotional resonance, other suggestions welcome!

Emotional resonance makes it tricky; the only thing I could really suggest which might have that is maybe Pink Ginsane (“like a 7b+ with half the bolts removed”, don’t they say?). Otherwise usual list of 7b+ classics, although one I’d throw in which may not appear on many lists is Mercurian Sump Dweller, partly because very few people seem to do it so don’t know the top head wall is really good. Or something on Spacehunter if you can work out which are really 7b+.

I’d be happy to team up for any or all of those if you need partners, all on the list or have been at some point.

I don’t really know what my 2018 holds. But ideas:
- generic don’t fuck up parenthood thing
- Font at Easter gives structure to the winter, which is a 7B pyramid with at least one 7 in Font.
- keep making long term progress - strength gains etc
- good dws season - classics but especially like to commit properly to Gates of Greyskull
- good autumn trip, preferably roped and potentially long haul before transporting the child becomes more expensive (Red? Smith?)

Richie Crouch

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#53 Re: Aims for 2018
January 03, 2018, 08:17:34 pm

3. Go make the effort to walk into and tick off some newish Welsh classics: Zeno & Manou, to name but two

Keen for Zeno.

Send me a message (still on the old number) as I have a newish phone and lost all of my contacts. Got a few days off this month that would work if you can get off child care for a few hours  :thumbsup:

Doylo

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#54 Re: Aims for 2018
January 03, 2018, 08:25:25 pm

3. Go make the effort to walk into and tick off some newish Welsh classics: Zeno & Manou, to name but two

Keen for Zeno.

Send me a message (still on the old number) as I have a newish phone and lost all of my contacts. Got a few days off this month that would work if you can get off child care for a few hours  :thumbsup:

I was thinking more in Spring. Think it’s hideous up there this time of year.

Doylo

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#55 Re: Aims for 2018
January 03, 2018, 08:26:12 pm
I might be allowed out by then too  ;)

Wil

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#56 Re: Aims for 2018
January 03, 2018, 08:32:13 pm
I didn't post one of these last yearfor some reason.

Climbing wise there's only one sensible goal:

  • Onsight big E5s consistently

With this in mind I think my goals should really be a routes wishlist:
The Axe / Positron / Right Wall / Headhunter / Barbarella / Darkinbad / Eroica / Get Some In / Circus Circus / The Jackal / Dog Eat Dog / Pacemaker / Warpath / Supersonic

If I get half of them done I'll be happy! I've got sport routes I'd like to do too, but I always see them as a gauge of fitness really. Have a trip to Taghia booked in, so getting one of the big 7b+s there done would be cool.

Life goals: Be making a sustainable income from writing and publishing, and build the contacts. Not aiming for full time, but 50% of my income would be good.

Duncan campbell

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#57 Re: Aims for 2018
January 04, 2018, 02:06:19 pm
I didn't post one of these last yearfor some reason.

Climbing wise there's only one sensible goal:

  • Onsight big E5s consistently

With this in mind I think my goals should really be a routes wishlist:
The Axe / Positron / Right Wall / Headhunter / Barbarella / Darkinbad / Eroica / Get Some In / Circus Circus / The Jackal / Dog Eat Dog / Pacemaker / Warpath / Supersonic

If I get half of them done I'll be happy! I've got sport routes I'd like to do too, but I always see them as a gauge of fitness really. Have a trip to Taghia booked in, so getting one of the big 7b+s there done would be cool.


Good list Wil! I’ve done most or all of those so if you want to partner up I’d happily second you on them!

Also if you want any info on the taghia 7b+s I did a few so can probably give you some vague knowledge (can’t give detailed beta in many cases though)

Duncan campbell

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#58 Re: Aims for 2018
January 05, 2018, 06:31:04 pm
Better state my aims for the year too...

Off down under at the end of the month And have three main things I want to do.in order of difficulty;

Totem Pole - pretty doable.

Archimedes Principle - might not onsight it but shouldn’t be too stressful to redpoint?

Serpentine - at my limit but hopefully with enough time I hopefully have a chance

U.K. aims

E6 - ideally onsight but ground up would be acceptable - lord/cad/suicide blonde being obvious contenders.

UK 8a? Big chat with this one as I’ll obviously get distracted by trad climbing. Defcon 3 and Zoolook are the two I like the look of. Really want to do Cave left also

Boulder 7A+/B more consistently. This winter has been a total shambles bouldering wise so it would be good to improve this discipline again. Problems on the hitlist include - art of white hat wearing, Ulysses or bust, spare rib, scary canary, chip shop brawl

Think a trip to Font in October instead of a route climbing trip would help this as would trying to sustain a fingerboard program. Onde de choc and rubis sur l’ongle being 2things I’d like to do out there. Hopefully can ride out one weak winter. 2 years of being weak might be bad for my climbing...?

Good luck everybody - hope you all have a great year!


Yossarian

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#59 Re: Aims for 2018
January 05, 2018, 08:07:12 pm
In no particular order:

Start year with decent regime, get down to a vaguely slimline 80something kg. Cut out / down booze consumption. Sort out diet and stop fetishising insanely large chunks of meat.

And then:
1 arm pull-up
1-4-7

Climbing:
Try to get outside throughout the year rather than training for distant holidays.
Abandon (for the time being) alpine rock aspirations and nice idea but tricky in execution type adventures, and concentrate on a nice and simple variety of routes along the lines of:

Boulder - some decent ticks in the 7A to 7B+ range
Sport - 7a - 7b+ then reboot Project 8a
Trad - E3 would be nice, E5 would be excellent. I’d be very happy to tick Ocean Boulevard at Swanage and Kafoozalem at Bosigran.

Trad and sport on the south coast, and further afield if possible. Family trip to Font, and something else Euro in the summer.

Non-climbing:
Contribute more to family life by finishing various work in progress rooms, starting with the (nearly three-year-old) kitchen project
Write a book for people other than children
Read more fiction / read more female authors
Discover a new species
Buy a motorbike

TobyD

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#60 Re: Aims for 2018
January 06, 2018, 07:54:37 am
Do more trad.
Keep reminding myself that it's something we do for fun

Amen to that. I'm keen to do more trad as well. Especially in Wales/ Lakes/ Cornwall / Scotland...

JackAus

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#61 Re: Aims for 2018
January 07, 2018, 05:10:31 am
1. Get fitter.
2. V9s
3. More DWS.
4. More FAs.

SA Chris

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#62 Re: Aims for 2018
January 08, 2018, 10:29:30 am

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#63 Re: Aims for 2018
January 13, 2018, 09:27:03 am
1) fit some sort of effective training to my weird life.
2) as I now seem to be almost exclusively a boulderer, boulder in company.
3) finish my efforts at the Marchlyn boulder,  so I can pass it onto the next generation
4) maybe, just maybe get it together enough to do my Clegir boulder project ( the sport will undoubtedly have to wait).

More details here: http://hoseyb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/12/brewing-next-years-psyche-2017.html?m=0

Luke Owens

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#64 Re: Aims for 2018
January 17, 2018, 09:54:17 pm
Fully psyched for this year!

1) Little Orme Project

2) Boulder 7B

3) Moonboard 7A+

4) Get noticeably stronger

Rocksteady

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#65 Re: Aims for 2018
January 18, 2018, 10:49:03 am
Always inspired by this thread, don't think I've ever achieved all my aims for a year though!

Last year pretty woeful for me, started strong, then tweaked pulleys on both hands and ended up having only 11 days climbing outside.

So this year...
All things being well I'm (well my wife is) having our first child within the next couple of weeks. So that will change things. But lots of dads on here gives me hope that with organisation and efficiency I can still climb OK.

Goals:
Foundation/process goals:
(A) Visit physio to fix issues, shoulders, knee, tension headaches. Do physio at least every other day. AIM: No more shoulder, back and knee pain, no more tension headaches.
(B) Buy Crusher fingerboard mount to fit my weird doorframes and delicate plaster. Fingerboard at least once a week. AIM: Improve 1 arm hang mid rung to Bodyweight -7kg compared to -18kg at last try.
(C) Climb outside at least 12 times this year. A Font trip in Spring would be ideal.
(D) Stop training the middle at the climbing wall. Focus on either lots of easy volume or short hard bouldering sessions. Particularly get involved with the board.

Performance goals:
(1) Boulder Fb7A+. Hot Ride and Lightning Strike at the Cuttings both seem realistic. Would also like to boulder Fb7A on Grit.
(2) Would be great if I could do another F7c. Focus on 2 routes at the Cuttings, Infernal Din (have had about 20 goes on this so know the beta, given 7b+ but stern and hold breakage mean consensus is higher now) and Hall of Mirrors.
(3) Build out experience at 7b+. Would love to do all but will settle for any of House Burning Down (Cheddar), Zinc Oxide Mountain (Battleship), any of the 7b+s at Brean Down.

We'll see. Suspect after we have a kid my goals may all change and be focused on sleep and keeping aforementioned child alive.

tommytwotone

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#66 Re: Aims for 2018
January 18, 2018, 11:31:12 am

Last year pretty woeful for me, started strong, then tweaked pulleys on both hands and ended up having only 11 days climbing outside.


All things being well I'm (well my wife is) having our first child within the next couple of weeks. So that will change things. But lots of dads on here gives me hope that with organisation and efficiency I can still climb OK.

Suspect after we have a kid my goals may all change and be focused on sleep and keeping aforementioned child alive.


[dadvice]

Good luck RS - you've fallen foul of the same thing I did and had a child with a birthday in peak climbing / bouldering season. Expect to spend many a birthday party (especially if you're in an NCT group with lots of other kids with birthdays around same time) in a soft play centre, staring out of the window at primo connies.

Only advice I could give is don't try to rush it carrying on with / keeping climbing once bambino arrives - in my experience you'll only get frustrated. Put the grades and the aspirations to one side for a bit, enjoy climbing for climbing's sakes if and when you get out.

Get your family shizz right, and once it's all settled down you can refocus. And don't underestimate the impact of sleep deprivation on you directly / you as a result of strife from your other half as a result of her being sleep deprived.

Having an outdoors-y / climber partner will exponentially increase your chances of being able to maximise your opportunities to climbb / get out / train, as will having a home board / other at-home training facility.

[/dadvice]

tommytwotone

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#67 Re: Aims for 2018
January 18, 2018, 11:53:36 am
In fact, while I'm here...bit of a rollover from last year (and probably the one before):


STG: fix knacked shoulder (current assumption / diagnosis is rotator cuff tear)
LTG: a new Font 7anything, anywhere


I'd also like to revisit a previous goal and get round to doing Long John's Slab, which is a long time ambition from when I started climbing - my first ever trip out (c.1996) was to Froggatt and remember seeing someone cruise it solo and thought "I'd like to be able to do that one day".








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#68 Re: Aims for 2018
January 18, 2018, 12:16:53 pm
Thanks TTT good Dadvice, I am certainly going to play it by ear re: goals and getting out etc. My missus is a (fairly understanding) non-climber. To be honest if I can fix my various injury issues this year and get out climbing a bit that will be a good one.

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#69 Re: Aims for 2018
January 18, 2018, 03:56:04 pm
I'd also like to revisit a previous goal and get round to doing Long John's Slab, which is a long time ambition from when I started climbing - my first ever trip out (c.1996) was to Froggatt and remember seeing someone cruise it solo and thought "I'd like to be able to do that one day".

I’d like to do this too of you need someone to go with. The heather bush high up has got pretty big so I’m planning to cut it back once I have more time on my hands.

rginns

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#70 Re: Aims for 2018
January 18, 2018, 10:34:42 pm
Righto here goes... Been a couple of years now since doing any sort of structured aims...

Climbing (all Lancs)
1. 7B
2. 10 problems 7A-7A+
3. Something new, preferably highball /good line
4. Some trad of any type...
5.at least 1 decent font trip

Non climbing
1. Shave 20 mins off last years Windermere sprint swim-run
2. Half marathon trail in under 1h 50
2a. Some sort of film project
3. All year no booze
4.5k in 21min, 10k in 45
5. Travel less for work...
6. Meditation, more time with family, slow down, etc.........


fatneck

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#71 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 09:04:00 am
1. Deal with work stress better
2. Find the perfect balance between fishing, climbing, running and family (yeah right)
3. Meet Fiend (maybe on the Lleyn?)
4. Get the wife to boulder Font 6b
5. Find wedding ring  :)

tommytwotone

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#72 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 10:01:07 am
I'd also like to revisit a previous goal and get round to doing Long John's Slab, which is a long time ambition from when I started climbing - my first ever trip out (c.1996) was to Froggatt and remember seeing someone cruise it solo and thought "I'd like to be able to do that one day".

I’d like to do this too of you need someone to go with. The heather bush high up has got pretty big so I’m planning to cut it back once I have more time on my hands.

Nice one Mike - once I've dealt with the below I'll be keen. Have stood on that shelf many a time trying to summon up the balls / reach to go for it.

I did once pull myself together, and as I was just about to commit, my mate said something along the lines of "jesus, that landing is terrible - you'd really hurt yourself if you fell of that". I gave up at that point - bubble burst.
 


STG: fix knacked shoulder (current assumption / diagnosis is rotator cuff tear)

« Last Edit: January 19, 2018, 10:06:15 am by tommytwotone »

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#73 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 10:55:24 am
Took me several hours over a few visits to commit to that move. Probably about 1996? Desperate for the shorter and more discerning gentleman.

Johnny Brown

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#74 Re: Aims for 2018
January 19, 2018, 11:14:01 am
It's a few weeks since I last did Long John's but I don't remember the heather bush being any bigger than normal or in need of trimming. In Autumn it does dribble chaff on the crimps but you can blow it off easily enough. It eases rapidly after the first couple of moves. I'm sure there would be pro for the trav if you wanted it.

You can pad the landing to some extent but you'd still need to land well. I was once soloing it behind Leo and Ben when Leo (who was going first, of course) fell off and took Ben out. I just had time to jump clear. But we were all fine.

 

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