[kingholmesy]

Sorry, drinking and posting. 

I mean tennis elbow and have been doing the relevant exercises from internet self diagnosis, with limited results.

Inside of left elbow isn’t great either though, so have been doing some of the exercises for golfers as well. Is that a bad idea?

( for hyjacking the thread.)

[r-man]

Yeah, you should probably see a physio.

But from what I read on the internet, studies* show the best tendon rehab results come from a combination of eccentric exercises and a 4-6 week break from the offending activity.

*Not climbing-related studies. There are probably none of those.

[kingholmesy]

studies* show the best tendon rehab results come from ... a 4-6 week break from the offending activity.

I’ve been in denial, but I’m sure this is right.  Why is it that it’s when you feel you’re going really well that you get injured?

Anyway, cheers for the advice.

[r-man]

Injuries are crap. Good luck with it!

[user deactivated]

Make or Break has some great advice on climbing related elbow pain and talks about activity modification i.e. Climbing slabs during the rehab phase. Tough for a boulderer or sport climber I know. Contrary to any evidence I also think acupuncture particularly deep needle stimulation is good for recalcitrant elbows probably due to mechanical stimulation of the troubling tissue (speculation) but that's what they do when they 'operate' apart from the plasma injections which sound grim to me. Anyway sensible advice might be progressive eccentric exercises, moderated climbing and seeing a good physio / acupuncturist whi also may offer ultrasound (just to add to the voodoo). Good luck!

[kingholmesy]

Make or Break has some great advice on climbing related elbow pain

Cheers. Anyone got a 2nd hand copy they want to sell me?  (Or want to scan the section on elbow injuries to me?)

[petejh]

Just to add to this - many/most climbers (who climb 'hard') get this at some point and it'll pass. Arm-aids are expensive good for massaging out tight forearms, alternatively get a crochet ball for cheaper. Look into the exercise that Tom Randall mentioned on here years ago - lying on you front with arms underneath to stretch out the forearm, pretty good. Whatever exercises/stretches you do should provoke 'some' pain. Worth looking at your shoulder posture and working on stretches/exercises to improve rounded shoulders - as sometimes elbow/forearm pain is referred from nerves in a tight/imbalanced shoulder/neck. As others said, keep climbing just climb different things. If you've a manual job or do lots of diy look to see if it aggravates the elbow.

[saltbeef]

I thought Make or Break was actually pretty useless, pretty vague, there is much better information freely available on the internet if you can be bothered to search it out. It sounds like you have tennis elbow - get a thera-bar and do the exercises. There is an excellent article on the back diamond website called hang right, it is worth reading. The challenge with seeing a physio is finding a good one that understands the demands of climbing. Things to consider - is it your elbow injury a downstream reflection of a shoulder  issue. Modify your climbing diet - not just the board. Improve your shoulder/thoracic mobility. Eliminate tension in the whole kinetic chain - from your neck to your wrist - get a lacrosse ball and pummel yourself, not directly over the inflamed tendon. There is a definite benefit in having a period of time off if you have active inflammation (this is my own anecdotal evidence)  - time frame depends on how bad it is (I took a fortnight off) but return to exercise when you can and at a vastly reduced intensity and keep moving in the interim. hope that helps

[user deactivated]

Hey Jim, you know the kinetic chain thing. I.e. Dodgy elbows can be a result of poor shoulder stability, posture and stiff thoracic spine. Could it work the other way round? Like dodgy shoulders are the result of weak fingers. Make or break wasn't dreadful! Hanging is weird I hung straight armed after a bicep injury now back to bent armed with shoulder impingement. Over all I thing better slightly engaged shoulders / elbow.

[saltbeef]

Hey Dan!
definitely suggest some muscular  engagement on dead hangs
MorB is not dreadful, but its a series of case studies of Dave's own injuries - see tennis elbow there is literally f all in there about it. I was disappointed by it
The elbow is a dumb joint I think upstream and downstream issues are at play

[user deactivated]

I remember a physio back in the day getting everyone doing anconeus exercises. I wonder if that worked?

[36chambers]

Forgot to add mine

15 times 7C+ and above. Probably too overambitious, but isn't that the point.

[TobyD]

8a or 8a+ rp in Spain in March. ≥7c onsight.
Do a ≥ font 7b on anything other than grit or font sandstone
Get back on some Yorkshire projects
Fit in several decent trad trips in the summer
Ride my bike more
Read more.
Finish a Guardian crossword

Well underestimated how long it has been since I've been on a climbing trip, onsighting new ground, dealing with burly tufas etc. Had a great time in Spain and massively improved. Tried pretty much all my target routes, one was broken and now very hard and put a load of work into 2 8a+s at bruxes, hopefully it'll pay off when I go back. Most importantly, did quite a few fantastic routes and had a right laugh. Weather was far from ideal, but only missed 1 planned day in a month.

[haydn jones]

8a or 8a+ rp in Spain in March. ≥7c onsight.
Do a ≥ font 7b on anything other than grit or font sandstone
Get back on some Yorkshire projects
Fit in several decent trad trips in the summer
Ride my bike more
Read more.
Finish a Guardian crossword

Well underestimated how long it has been since I've been on a climbing trip, onsighting new ground, dealing with burly tufas etc. Had a great time in Spain and massively improved. Tried pretty much all my target routes, one was broken and now very hard and put a load of work into 2 8a+s at bruxes, hopefully it'll pay off when I go back. Most importantly, did quite a few fantastic routes and had a right laugh. Weather was far from ideal, but only missed 1 planned day in a month.

Buxes is so good isn't it! Which 8a+se were you on?

[TobyD]

8a or 8a+ rp in Spain in March. ≥7c onsight.
Do a ≥ font 7b on anything other than grit or font sandstone
Get back on some Yorkshire projects
Fit in several decent trad trips in the summer
Ride my bike more
Read more.
Finish a Guardian crossword

Well underestimated how long it has been since I've been on a climbing trip, onsighting new ground, dealing with burly tufas etc. Had a great time in Spain and massively improved. Tried pretty much all my target routes, one was broken and now very hard and put a load of work into 2 8a+s at bruxes, hopefully it'll pay off when I go back. Most importantly, did quite a few fantastic routes and had a right laugh. Weather was far from ideal, but only missed 1 planned day in a month.

Buxes is so good isn't it! Which 8a+se were you on?

Flix flax and L'adrecador. Also tried Xarop de basto which is pretty much as hard now!

[jwi]

Xarop is a very top end 7c+

[haydn jones]

Yea xarop is probably one of the hardest onsights I've ever managed. Pretty chuffed to get it.

[TobyD]

Marc snapped a fair sized bit of tufa off the crux when we tried it, even more top end now. Good effort Hayden.

Mallorca es funky is also hard imho, but brilliant. Bruxes has a good range of difficulty in each grade: soft touches to sandbags...

[Andy F]

1) Try and sort my head out.
2) Massively reduce my booze intake (which will help point 1)
3) Get out and climb more.

1) is vastly better because 2) has also improved.
3) One session outside this weekend, but I did managed 4 blocs of 7a and above, including a 7a+/b flash, my hardest for ages, which was nice 

[cheque]

Fantastic Andy.

[Hoseyb]

1) fit some sort of effective training to my weird life.
2) as I now seem to be almost exclusively a boulderer, boulder in company.
3) finish my efforts at the Marchlyn boulder,  so I can pass it onto the next generation
4) maybe, just maybe get it together enough to do my Clegir boulder project

Well I had some company last weekend,  and my climbing buddies come back from Europe next week so going steady.
Double session ing once a week with a bit of child wrangle cross training and other physical acts. Pilates helping loads. Flexibility is next focus. Marchlyn will just need a suitable window. As for Clegir,  major breakthroughs have occurred and now done almost half the moves.
Happy Bunny

[Sasquatch]

Hmm. Aims for 2018 - At this point I'd say:

#1 - Local Sport Projects - 2 - Party wall and Byron Glacier.  Both in the 8c/+ish range and will take extraordinary effort to get fit and strong enough to make these feasible. Opened the account on Party Wall project - basically a v12/13ish boulder. Done all but one move, so looks possible.

#2 - Find, bolt and send 2-3 more good sport projects in the 8a-b ish range. One new 8b done, now on to the next

#3 - Step up the business. So far so good.  Two new multiyear contracts signed, targeting two more by the end of the year.

[36chambers]

Forgot to add mine

15 proper (and independent) 7C+s and above. Probably too overambitious, but isn't that the point.

Effectively half way through the year now.

8 down and so far they've all been corkers  

[Ally Smith]

2018:
- Kilnsey roof project
    - If impractical (weather is a possible limiting factor): Net reduction in number of bolted, but uncompleted projects
- Get married

BOOM!
https://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/ally-smith-completes-major-kilnsey-project.html

Other objectives also looking good too

[Bradders]

Blimey, halfway already.

keep 2018 fairly low on big life changing events and keep focused on climbing.

Tick so far

1. Get an overseas trip booked.

Nowt booked so far but should get to Font in October. Have been to Scotland and the Lakes for a few days each and have a week in Devon booked in August. Fingers crossed for non-sweltering connies.

2. Climb 7C on the Leeds Depot 50' board.

Not even close!

3. More of a life goal than just 2018, but I'd love to complete the This is Yorkshire tick list.

No more so far. Spent the remainder of the 2017/18 grit season ticking off a couple of significant scalps at Caley and Almscliff though so can't complain. Can't wait for grit season.

4. Finish off some of the high 7s on grit that aren't my normal style. Things like Lager3, Ben's Groove Sit and Underworld are high on the list here.

Another two sessions on Lager3 to no avail. Did at least get the consolation ticks of The Flakes and Underpants though, which both eluded me last year.

5. Climb 8A on UK lime and in Wales.

Managed a couple more on Yorkshire Grit and lime is very much work in progress/getting closer. Still not been to Wales though!