[Nibile]

Hey, Tuesday and no Power Club yet?
Power Club

Mon - 5 mm session, so good! A few hangs then did + 5 kg and + 10 kg x 2. It was ok but a bit painful. Koyamada can still sleep well, he's got nothing to fear for the moment.  Then empty bar work: overhead squat 5 x 2; Javorek complex 10 x 2.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1 deload week: goddammit I earned it! So tired, end of cycle 1. Rack pulls singles up to 120 kg. Boxing bag.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - ab wheel, strong. Weights.
Sat - rest.
Sun - boxing bag, Javorek complex. Exhausting.

[mrjonathanr]

Pudding Club at this time of year, that’s the rule

[Nibile]

 
Fair enough, but you still have to log everyhing in here!

[mrjonathanr]

As instructed

[duncan]

Thanks for keeping us in order Nibs.

STG - Don’t get injured. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly. Bouldering or fingerboard 2x weekly.
MTG - V4 on the Westway steep board by next March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; exotic long, hard and free.

M - Westway bouldering. Managed 4 moves of the Fridge Board Black V4. Stretches.
T - Shoulder strength, stretches.
W - Fingerboard benchmarking. 68% bodyweight with right, 66% with left on a 20mm edge.
T - Shoulder strength, stretches.
F - Westway. Routes to 6c (second go).
S - Journey to Edinburgh. Stretches.
S - Edinburgh Alien Bloc bouldering.

Productive week. Very surprised by the lack of asymmetry between arms. Left arm feels obviously weaker in real climbing. Will retest in the New Year as I’ve never done this before and it may be an artefact. What are the guide grades for this kind of strength?

Really enjoyed Alien Bloc, a small space but well-used with Moon board, 20 degree (?) circuit board, traverse wall, some good setting, friendly staff and clientele (and generous grades!) Reminded me a little of the original Arch.

Plan: pudding club.

[mrjonathanr]

Now logged

[shark]

Thanks nibs

11.7-8

M. Afternoon. Ben psyched for Soul Crusher at Anston I spent all session trying the hardest move -literally one hand move - without success

T.

W.

T. Went to Anston to humour Ben. As expected SC totally condensed. Eve Wave. Did the green and black spots left of centre worked last time. Also managed the hard last move on wasps just to left that I also tried last time but couldn't link. Moved onto burly black in centre not tried. Did it. Finished off with some easy routes on auto belay

F. Lunchtime and also wad o clock. Too many good climbers on central bit so skulked on the far right and did a hard fluoro yellow. Cleared up and worked wasp right of centre withKeith

S. Long day travel. Flight diverted from Innsbruck to Salzburg

S. St Anton. Beautiful views, blue skies, best snow for years apparently. Rather be climbing

[nai]

M - still feeling rough
T - bit better, some mobility stuff
W - set out to do 3x10 mins LI AeroCap. Managed 2x10
Th - mobility plus quick garage bouldering session. Supposed to take it easy then completed a project I'd not managed to link any 2 moves consistently in three sessions 
Fr mobility, HI AeroCap.  Had first proper meal since previous Tuesday.
S bit of stretching
S Foundry with kids, some L2s. Mobility.

[Luke Owens]

Cheers Nibs, slack week from me but a decent day Thursday.

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30s Side star plank (both sides)
5 x 5s L-Hangs
10 x 10 Shoulder rotations
5 x 10 "Y's" with theraband
10 Hanging leg raises
2 x 15 Dorsal raises
60 sec worth of supermans

T: Rest

W: Rest

T: Physio at the boardroom, insightful look at what might actually be wrong with my arms/shoulders, positive tests for Thoracic Outlet Syndrome, tried more tests at home too. Seems to be the only thing that actually explains symptons I've had, gathered together a group of scretches/exercies to do now.

Boardroom - Moonboard session, couple of psyched fellas joined in. Tried "Far from the madding crowd" a couple of times more, still hard. Did "Cakewalk" (6B+) managed to matched the finishing hold this time. Tried a 6C a few times, hard move off a pinch - no luck. Then tried another 6C called something like "Just another day" excellent problem. Fell trying to match the finishing hold about 4 times. Keen to finish that off.

F: Lunch - Various stretches and exercises with threaband for shoulders

S - S: Cleaning house/not getting enough sleep/preping for Christmas day.

[Coops_13]

M:
T: Arch, feeling strong on the 50. Making up new, harder problems
W:
T: Arch, relatively weak session but good to keep up momentum
F:
S: Cuttings Boulderfield. Hungover, damp solo trip. Warmed up at New Cuttings before trying Terminator 7A. Would have done it if I wasn't alone, didn't fancy trusting that heel toe by myself. Went and "flashed" Years around the Sun 7A+ (have done the 7A version before). Walked around a bit more, nothing could build psyche so called it a day.
S: Strong session on my mate from uni's board back home.

[tomtom]

M: Buckstone - crap.
T:
We:
Th:
Fr: Wall
Sa:
Su: A damp(ish) Curbar. Opened my account of Great White.. feels like it could go... (is the crux the final move, or the one before that?)

[Bradders]

First of two weeks off last week, although did go to The Depot Leeds for a couple of hours on the Wednesday and then had far too much beer after with friends. Merry Christmas everyone 

[yetix]

M: Buckstone - crap.
T:
We:
Th:
Fr: Wall
Sa:
Su: A damp(ish) Curbar. Opened my account of Great White.. feels like it could go... (is the crux the final move, or the one before that?)

Moving off the pinch I believe?

[tomtom]

Excellent. Got the hardest move to look forward to

[fried]

Nice one nibs.

Climbing will resume tomorrow. apart from that I'm saying nothing.