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Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017 (Read 5212 times)

shark

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Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 17, 2017, 05:26:27 pm
11.5-6

M. Lunch. Systems board. Attempted AnCap but was futile. Then tried AeroCap but too boxed for that so gave up. AbCrap session?

T. Manc

W. Noon. Wave. First time in ages. New set apparently. Managed all the level2's on the steep section

T. Noon. Noon. Wave. Back for more. Bouldered with Toby and Keith on a couple of the harder ones. Did well on Green and black spots left of centre doing it in overlapping halves. Eve Fingerboard

F. Manc

S. AM lie in. PM Tor. Only one other there - Matt from brum. Intended to go on Ben's but knackered. Had some unsuccessful goes at weedkiller. Eve Annual old man chrimbo gathering at Rising Sun

S. 10 mins on systems board trying aerocap. Got pumped so stopped. Checked out Soul Crusher at Anston for Ben on way home - hard moves dry so will go there with him tomorrow afternoon.

Really wanted to do more training this week but body let me down  :(

T_B

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#1 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 17, 2017, 06:27:47 pm
M - Autobelays. Redpointed the new 7b in the furnace.
T -
W - pm board. Short scrappy session.
T - S - Nowt.

Off to check out some boulders in Argentina (not really), back in 3 wks. Merry Chrimbo P-Clubbers. Don’t get too fat  :alky:

Wood FT

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#2 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 17, 2017, 07:01:55 pm
M - Autobelays. Redpointed ground up'd the new 7b in the furnace.

surely?

tomtom

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#3 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 17, 2017, 08:07:32 pm
Wall on weds, Buckstone on Sat opening a new project account.


TobyD

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#4 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 17, 2017, 10:42:53 pm

T. Noon. Noon. Wave. Back for more. Bouldered with Toby and Keith on a couple of the harder ones. Did well on Green and black spots left of centre doing it in overlapping halves.


I'll probably be there same time this week if you're around. Did another couple of the wasps today that you'd probably like. See also the green and black spots in the bomb bay.

shark

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#5 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 17, 2017, 11:13:48 pm
Nice work Toby. In Manchester tues and weds. Probably Anstonwith Ben thurs

Nibile

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#6 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 08:21:16 am
Power Club

Mon - FB 1,5 cm, one arm. Nothing special: was not fully recovered from Saturday's static session, plus temps were back to 14 degrees and super humid. Oh well... Did some max hangs and some at 90 %. Satisfying. Empty bar pulls. Military press. Boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1 week 3. A marvellous session, that had me nervous all week. Went all in in the last set, but still kept good form. This first cycle sets a virtual 1 rep max at 79 kg. Chuffed. So happy. Weights, 3 sets: normal, static, static-dynamic.
Thu - rest.
Fri - various regular and one armed hangs, empty bar work, a few snatches.
Sat - basketball game. Getting a bit back into it! Tired.
Sun - rest. Wanted to train but had very little time and I used it to make myself a couple of nice 5 mm edges. Checked the 1 cm edge to find out that it's in fact 9 mm. Yay!

Nutty

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#7 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 08:53:30 am
Weight: 67.2kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Fast 10km run,  41:10 time (4:06/km pace). Pleased with with the time given the hills on the route.
T: Ill. Vomited in the morning, felt faint when having a shower, went back to bed.
W: Rest.
T: Rest.
F: Rest.
S: Rest.
S: An easy paced (4:48/km) 8.5km run.

Started the week well, but succumbed to the vomiting bug that's been going round on Tuesday. Took it easy before getting back in to training. Pleased with the 10km time on Monday, nearly ticked one of my goals and given the hills I ran on the route I think I could go sub-41 min on the flat.

Coops_13

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#8 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 09:02:00 am
M:
T: Arch. Really strong session. Managed 1-4-7 both arms on big rungs easily and made progress with middle rungs. Touched 7 going right arm first :) Good sesh on the 50 making new projects and repeating old ones
W:
T: Arch. Awful session. Went home after an hour.
F:
S: Whitehouses. Did Rageh Omaar 7A fairly quickly then started working Under Rumsfeld 7B+. Took me a while to get the first move then couldn't hold the cut loose. Ended up doing Kenny 7B after puntering off the top and losing a chunk of my little finger in the process. Video below:

S: Raining so went to Leeds Depot. Checked out some nice problems and was nice to get acquainted with their 50

Luke Owens

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#9 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 09:05:52 am
Way to tired again this week, only sleeping 5hrs max at night, need to get to bed earlier. Not sure if it's just me and my better half or if anyone else is the same but we're knackered in the day to the point of falling asleep yet once the kids are in bed and it's getting late we all of a sudden find the energy to get things done and stay up for hours... Not really any excuse to feel this tired as our kids both sleep 12hrs+ every night.  :spank:

M: Clearing drive and road of snow and building snowmen with the kids.

T: Rest

W: Rest

T: Lunch - 5 x 5sec L-hangs and loads of various shoulder exercises

Eve: Boardroom Moonboard sesh with Petejh and Sam - Had a full session on the board and really got into it, topped a couple of 6B+ and worked on loads of different problems. Keen to finish off "Far from the madding crowd" next time as it exposes my pinch weakness, psyched to be back into the board again.

F: Rest

S: In defiance of the forecast and despite needing to be home for 1pm me and my son went to check out the Churnet bouldering. Early 6am start. First time there, Lots of ice and snow still over that way. -1C when we got there and started snowing a lot. Went to Wright's Rock, most things dry to my amazement.

Son was instantly psyched out of nowehere and started to try and climb everything he could reach the holds on, good to see! He managed some decent moves here and there, not easy in willies, the lads a beast already and can do pull ups on some small holds.

Did Blazes (6A+) to warm up a few times. Then tried "Simple Simon Indirect" (7A) Mainly tried the big last move a few times, stuck it a couple of times but couldn't match.

Running out of time so tired "Rocket Ride" (6C+) fell going for the jug then had to bail.

Bit of a bad session but I doubt I was even warmed up by the time I left, Baltic conditions.

S: Picked up some climbing shoes from Decathlon for Leon, going to take him to the Climbing Hangar soon, never been, looks ace for kids.

duncan

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#10 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 09:22:06 am
Well done to those keeping the faith.

STG - Don’t get injured. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly. Stabilise weight.
MTG - 7a by the end of 2017. V4 on the Westway steep board by next March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; various long, hard and free.

M - Stretches.
T - Westway with Soli: comp. wall routes to 6c+. Stretches.
W - Stretches.
T - Stretches.
F - Portland Cuttings with the retired super alpinist. Early start but negotiating London traffic still felt like leading E4. Glorious weather, no yellow gloves required. Ed and Matt turned up and I basked in my new-found podcast fame. Struggled on the warm-ups, arms still tired from Tuesday and left shoulder felt tweaky and vulnerable in the dislocation position. Got on Haute Cuisine. Faffed around on the bottom overhang then lucked a good sequence (knee bar!) after which I wondered what all the fuss had been about. Found another hold on the top wall but too tired to try to lead by this point. Epic drive home.
S - Battered. ‘Light’ version of the strengthening exercises. Stretches.
S - Child wrangling and dinner partying. Stretches.

Two quite good days but generally feeling the time of year/my age/cumulative effects of six weeks of consistent training. Have been a bit lax with the shoulder supportive exercises and need to step these back up. Bit disappointed didn’t get Haute Cuisine this time but given where I was three months ago I’m pretty happy to be even trying it.

Plan: One more training session then take a break from pulling over Christmas. Get some sunlight, book a holiday, try not to eat too much.

GazM

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#11 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 10:44:02 am
12+ hours Luke?! How d'you manage that? 

An Ok week on the board.  Fingers are firmly crossed that the impending festive hols and on-tap childcare will allow time to test board-form with the real deal.

Festive hols goal: See off the 'Hygge Project' at Inchbae, have some good goes on Potential Seven, Torridon.

Mon: Nowt
Tues: Lunchbreak at Inverness wall.  45 mins easy bouldering.
Weds: Board - 1st repeat of an old nemesis
Thurs: Nowt
Fri: Board - tried a couple of new problems
Sat: Nowt
Sun: Board - Managed one of Fridays newies.

nai

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#12 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 11:35:57 am
M - LI AeroCap
T - Birchen with Dolly. Greener and wetter than anticipated so not much to go at.  Did Thing on a Spring and Sodomy and went through the usual faffing and flailing on the Hornblower wall problems.
W - Stomach bug
Th - still rough
F - felt a bit better, still no appetite but was out for dinner in the evening so had something to eat....
S - Stomach bug
Sun - still rough

36chambers

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#13 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 12:23:48 pm
M:
T: Indoors. Unplanned high volume session, practically did all the purps ("V5-7", I think), flashing most of them.
W:
T: Indoors. Got sucked into trying the "V8 upwards" oranges. Managed one for the first time ever and was pretty close to a few others. Most of them I couldn't touch.
F:
S: Whitehouses. Went with the aim of doing the individual moves on Corporal Khan 8A and was surprised to make it to the top the first time I got through the lower section ;D. Also climbed Kenny Boy Lay 7C afterwards. Had a very quick play on Revival/Lazarus as well which looks incredible. Keen to return. 
S: Indoors. Taking it easy, feeling pretty exhausted.

On Wednesday my LH middle finger A2 started to feel a little bad and rather than do the sensible thing, and since it didn't hurt whilst climbing, I continued as normal (infact, I uncharacteristically spent a session trying the hardest problems at the wall). Obviously I am an idiot and it now hurts more than it did, so it's probably high time I take it easy for a while.

Bradders

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#14 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 05:51:58 pm
S: Whitehouses. Went with the aim of doing the individual moves on Corporal Khan 8A and was surprised to make it to the top the first time I got through the lower section ;D. Also climbed Kenny Boy Lay 7C afterwards. Had a very quick play on Revival/Lazarus as well which looks incredible. Keen to return. 

Legend. Hope the finger feels better soon, perfect time for a bit of a rest to be fair.

STG - Zoo York (probably more like a MTG at least but I'm being optimistic!), Crazy Legs Chrome
MTG - two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, would love to do West Side Story, The Terrace, Ben's Groove Sit, Lager3, Sideliner, The Golden Egg & The Fonz.
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - Whitehouses, trying Crazy Legs Crome again. Fell off repeatedly going for the RH crimp. The one time I made it through I managed to fluff the big LH move on FPR. Frustrating, what a punter.
T - super snowy afternoon at Ilkley Rocky Valley. So cold I couldn't not have 4 layers and a down jacket on even whilst climbing. I'd wanted to try Sweet Dreams and Frank for ages. Repeated the stand of the former and did all the moves of the sit. Unfortunately the most difficult bit was pulling off the floor, which is always annoying. Tried Frank for a bit and didn't do a single move. I think this was mainly due to a lack of commitment as the landing is terrible. Will return with more pads. Actually quite psyched for it.
W - rest
T - walked up to Crookrise. Everything soaked. Left a pad for later.
F - back up to Crookrise. Wandered around for 2/3 hours as everything still wet. Sole Fusion dried out by 1pm so spent an hour on that and made it to the jump move a couple of times but was nowhere near going for it. Had a brief 15 minute go on Sideliner as the sun set and re did all the moves.
S - Crookrise again. Awesome day out. Loads of people trying hard and Jason's Roof, Sole Fusion and Razor all saw ascents by others. For my part, I managed to get up Sideliner! Kind of came out of nowhere; was totally inconsistent on the crux drop in/rock over move, but suddenly it clicked and I had a go from the start where I basically stepped off on the foot swap, pulled back on immediately and went to the top, then did it next go after a big rest. Psyched!
S - rest

Murph

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#15 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 18, 2017, 06:26:36 pm
Once again I am inspired and appalled at the effort being put in round these parts!

M-
T-kettlebells, works power hour, 5k run
W-
T-yellow (easy) and murple (hard) session at works
F-
S-works yellows and murples
S-

Not the worst week, way off of being the best tho. I'll dust the fingerboard off this week as sickness has hit the younger members of Tribe Murph this week so I doubt I'll get out much.

measles23

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#16 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 19, 2017, 08:26:36 am
cleans 5-3-1
What are these nibs?

M- nil
T- Vanilla Sky session - first session with no progression despite rock in decent condition - lots of excuses (too cold, poor skin, poor rubber, feeling heavy etc etc) but basically not strong enough to compensate for anything other than perfect preparation.. Sort of linked the crux once
W- nil
T- DL poor - couple of singles at 200 feels easy but 220 barely came off the floor
   Weighted pull-ups bunch of sets up to 3x(+40kgx1)
   AW moonboard session 1hr - good, felt strong, did one of Colin’s probs
F- nil
S- nil
S- Stoke AW moonboard again 2hrs felt good again, good progress on one of Dom’s probs

Uninspiring week - haven’t done regular board work for a few years but really enjoying being back on the Stoke moonboard - shitty screw-on footholds are ace

Nibile

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#17 Re: Power Club 407 11h - 17th Dec 2017
December 19, 2017, 08:52:47 am
cleans 5-3-1
What are these nibs?

shitty screw-on footholds are ace
First things first: shitty screw-on footholds are indeed ace, and probably the best specific core training for climbing.

Then: nothing special, just power cleans (receiving the bar high instead of pulling yourself under it) put into Jim Wendler's 5-3-1 pattern. Brilliant stuff!

 

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