This builds on earlier points by TT, PJH and Danny regarding lattice testing...
I've not convinced about the climbing is easier for the tall conclusion from the lattice data - and I'm a short climber so could do with the excuse.
It could easily be argued the opposite way - the lattice tests are easier for the short.
I found this an interesting topic and would love some more information and clarification form Tom.
I didn't take it as them saying "climb grade x" is easier for the tall, just that the average person who climbs grade x and is shorter
will have higher levels of relative1
finger strength compared to a taller
person who can also climb grade x.
They didn't mention anything about the relative difficulty or ease of getting that finger strength! I.e. who knows, maybe shorties gain finger strength more easily than tall people, so while they "need" more, they don't have to work any harder to make the grade?
Also, they did say taller people need relatively stronger cores. I know for sure that it's harder for taller people to *get* stronger cores. Not many 6 footers doing front levers at my gym, tonnes of shorties doing them though...
What I understood the key thing to take away was - be careful when comparing yourself to others, and following other's training plans etc. I have relatively strong fingers for a taller guy, but on steep ground cannot use that strength well. (i.e. my basic fingerboard finger strength is quite high for the grades I climb, but I flail around on crimps on 35*+) This new information has made me think that I should focus more on shoulder girdle strength (a weakness of mine) and core strength (active/dynamic) and not worry too much about dangling off a fingerboard.
Might do an assessment....