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Pullups, to 1 armers, to bouldering grade (Read 5553 times)

Fiend

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18 (new post-DVT pb)
0 (never going to happen)
7A+

Stick that in your pipe.

As always I'm willing to bet my anal beard that people with high bouldering grades and low pull-up tallies 1. never try pull-ups apart from once a year for the novelty e.g. threads like this and 2. have almost identical pull-up tallies on tiny edges as well as bars.

remus

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Given that 5 is your minimum the questions about what happens at the bottom end remain. I know a few people who climb who can't do one.

The lack of climbers with low numbers of pull ups is because we have a soft cut off for the grade at which we'll assess people, so our dataset doesn't have many climbers in the french 4-5 sorta range (who would be prime candidates for not being able to do many pull ups). There's also fewer women in there than we'd like, which would be another group Id suspect you'd see low numbers of pull ups.

Quote
More stats. The one-armers are a classic eg of a zero-inflated Poisson distribution by the looks of it. If I was working this kind of data I'd collect that info despite the pile of zeros (which are pretty common in the likes of ecological survey data, for example) because the tools are available to handle that kind of distribution.

That's a good point. It's tricky from a practicality point of view though. People only have so much time/energy to put towards an assessment so we've got to choose the tests we do fairly carefully.

SA Chris

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Where's slackline when you need him.

battery

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To add to the female data set -

1 if I slightly jump into it (3 is the max I ever achieved)
0 (don't make me laugh!)
would expect to do 6b on most trips outside 7a is the max grade I've ever climbed.

remus

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Where's slackline when you need him.

Probably fuming that no-ones setup a google form to collect all the data  :slap:

Danny

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That's a good point. It's tricky from a practicality point of view though. People only have so much time/energy to put towards an assessment so we've got to choose the tests we do fairly carefully.

Fair enough I'd say. Don't want to be wrecking your participants!

Danny

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Where's slackline when you need him.

Probably fuming that no-ones setup a google form to collect all the data  :slap:

I was expecting to be chastised for my lackadaisical stats.

Danny

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UKB data. AKA, the influence of Probes. Grey scribbly shit is bootstrapped model fits.

cheque

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So if I want to climb 8a, 10a or 12b then I need to be able to do 25 pull-ups?

r-man

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As always I'm willing to bet my anal beard that people with high bouldering grades and low pull-up tallies 1. never try pull-ups apart from once a year for the novelty e.g. threads like this and 2. have almost identical pull-up tallies on tiny edges as well as bars.

And 3. Despite the instructions have still put their max grade ever, rather than general max. You know who you are.  ;)  :lol:

I'd contribute but I have no useful data. No idea how many pull-ups I can do. I'm a boulderer - why would I do pull-ups?

Danny

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So if I want to climb 8a, 10a or 12b then I need to be able to do 25 pull-ups?

Yes. Get going.

36chambers

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And 3. Despite the instructions have still put their max grade ever, rather than general max. You know who you are.  ;)  :lol:

my thoughts exactly ;D

teestub

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2 comments on the thread but no data for yourself 36chambers?

I wonder if '% bodyweight added/subtracted to do a max of 5 pullups' or similar would give a better correlation?

36chambers

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2 comments on the thread but no data for yourself 36chambers?

Unfortunately it's been over 3 years since I've been able to do pull ups without my elbows imploding so I have no idea how many I can do :boohoo:

Oldmanmatt

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2 comments on the thread but no data for yourself 36chambers?

Unfortunately it's been over 3 years since I've been able to do pull ups without my elbows imploding so I have no idea how many I can do :boohoo:

Well, that explains your (?) face in your profile pic...

Oldmanmatt

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And 3. Despite the instructions have still put their max grade ever, rather than general max. You know who you are.  ;)  :lol:

my thoughts exactly ;D

True...

But...

I kinda have a problem with this.
This is one of those things that is best summed by “it depends” and is going to be different in definition for everyone.

To illustrate, when I boulder, I usually climb alone. I rarely climb many problems. 9.99999/10 I warm up by pratting around/doing pull ups on differing holds/ easy trav with exagerated moves and then batter my head against the current project. Often thats done with a timer, 3minutes trying a move, 2min rest, x=n attempts, five minute rest, on to next move; until wired then repeat process for linkups etc etc.
As you can imagine this is not an approach conducive to social inteaction.
So, when climbing for fun (as apposed to satisfaction), with others, I’m not exactly “in the zone”...

There are reasons for this, there are people who occasionally dip into this forum, who will recall with a wry grin my ability to have epic tantrums when things become competitive and my utter inability to avoid competing. I have mellowed, but principly by avoiding the issue.

On the other hand, I have never flashed a 7B on any rock type.
And some I couldn’t master after several sessions.
Then there’s a certain 6B at Savasona that I never could finish. Too highball.

Sasquatch

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12

0 (not even a 1-arm lockoff)

8A


mde

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~14

0 (on a bar/rings can lock off for a few seconds)

7A

Note: I'm not much of a boulderer though, i.e. only boulder for training having fun on bad weather days (mostly indoors) and never chased grades, pretty much suck at any dynamic / modern comp style / very steep stuff that nowadays abounds indoors (but still do 7A in this style). I'm a typical rock climber adapted to thin slightly overhanging terrain where I regularly climb 8a/8a+ and 8b+ max.

Hamfunk

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More data for you Danny...

~14

0 - I did 0.8 on one arm during the summer on a low gravity day. Otherwise I can lock at various positions.

7B+


Danny

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Hot mess of a bootstrapped quadratic with the extra data added. Gives a clear indication of the influence of outliers (1-2 pullups and 45 pullups) on the relationship. When they're not sampled in the boot, the relationships can change dramatically—confidence intervals would be much cleaner, but would obscure that observation. Competitive with the linear model, though both aren't ideal.


petejh

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Can't believe you used V-grades  ::)


edit: I'd be interested to see a correlation between bodyweight and max number of pull-ups.

bw: 65kg
pull-ups (overarm): 25

kelvin

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12

0 (not even a 1-arm lockoff)

8A

See, this cheers me up a lot - it's been obvious on Powerclub how strong you are and then it turns out you can't lockoff one armed. So I've got massive room for improvement without worrying about pull-ups, I just need to get the finger strength back up again.

I'm not sure much of anything can be read into all the data but I am generally surprised how few all the 7C/8A wads can do.

slackline

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edit: I'd be interested to see a correlation between bodyweight and max number of pull-ups.

I collected body weight and height as well as pull-ups and various other responses when I setup and ran the Benchmarking survey, but never compared weight/BMI to pull-ups directly in the summary.  I would have preferred to have collected waist-hip ratio as its more useful than BMI, particularly in fit people, but decided it was going to be subject to a large amount of measurement error.

Pretty straight-forward to setup a survey to collect the data in a format that is much easier to use and subsequently summarise using Google Forms which saves the ballache (and error prone) method of reading through replies here and typing them out into whatever software is then used.  :slap:

remus

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edit: I'd be interested to see a correlation between bodyweight and max number of pull-ups.

Your wish is my command.


andy_e

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Am I the only one thinking that all of the correlations shown so far show no correlation at all? Give me some r2 values.