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Pullups, to 1 armers, to bouldering grade (Read 25010 times)

Danny

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Pullups, to 1 armers, to bouldering grade
December 11, 2017, 04:39:55 pm
Just an idle thought here about correlations between these three things. Would be interesting to get a spread of UKBers data on this.
For the bouldering grade, I'd  think it should be something like your *general* max grade. i.e. a grade you've climbed a good handful of, not your probably-soft best effort, with one move that totally suited you, 5 years ago.

Pullups:
~20
1-armers:
0
Boulder:
7C

Maybe non-integer values on the one armers are fine. Still 0 for me.



galpinos

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Pull-Ups
~8
1-armers
Ha!
Boulder
7a

twoshoes

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10.
I can't even lock off on 1 arm.
7B

I blame heavy legs.

Ally Smith

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15
Zero
7C (harder in Parisella's, especially if kneebars are involved...)

kelvin

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 Pull-ups - 2 (can do 2 in the Beastmaker mono slots tho)

One armers - can't lock off one armed

Grade - flashed 6B a few times, anything over that comes under your 'not allowed' rules

bigironhorse

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~25 / 1 / 7B+

In case its of interest to anyone, I used to do a lot of pull ups as a teenager and I got up to being able to do 50 in one go around the same time as being able to do a one armer. My ability to do pull ups has decreased over time but I've always been able to do a one armer.

Fultonius

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12
None  (weak shoulders)
7B

alx

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Going to have to extrapolate here as I never go above 10 out of boredom.

~20 (10 with 20kg added weight)
0
7C+


Oldmanmatt

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I can do lots and lots of pull ups.
Last year I trained until I could do 3 sets of 3 one armers on each arm.
I stopped because I’d only really done it because I wanted to be able to do it and I had.
As TobyD can attest, I can do all kinds of tricks on Bars and Rings and Campus rungs and 45* boards and Finger boards etc etc etc.
But...
My 7C+ boulder projects held me at bay all year, until I gave up (until Spring, then I’m having that twat!) and my return to Sport has been, ummm, less than illustrious (?).

To translate.
I’m fucking strong.
I’m climbing like shit.

Actually, like shit on a shiny shovel.

I have completely revamped my training as a result of my crap season. I want one more 8a and I’d love to pull in another 8A before I call it quits (I actually care little about the style in which that is achieved, I don’t have a log book or even give much of a toss for ethics; I know when I’m satisfied with myself).

However, I am living proof (N=1 so as valid as any Homeopathy proof) that being able to do a one armer, or multiples there of, has sod all bearing on your climbing ability.

Danny

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What, like more than 50? My mind was blown at bigironhorse's 50 in youth. You might be overstrong for your grade, but you might not be as much of an outlier as you think. 7C+/8A is still fairly good going IMO. What's the proj?

Coops_13

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Pull-ups: ~25
One-armers: 1
Max grade: 7B+

Oldmanmatt

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What, like more than 50? My mind was blown at bigironhorse's 50 in youth. You might be overstrong for your grade, but you might not be as much of an outlier as you think. 7C+/8A is still fairly good going IMO. What's the proj?

You missed the bit about not even touching it.

Saddle Tor Traverse and Mako (coz it’s meant to be soft at).

It seems very much the pipe dream. Despite recovering a good deal of fitness and strength, I am unable to regain the ability I had ~2010/11 when I peaked.
That was living in Barcelona, climbing outdoors a lot (Bouldering only), running lots, minimal campusing and climbing indoors loads too. No “structured” training. Lots of press-ups.
I have shite foot work and (apparently) a poorly supressed fear of heights, that is playing havoc with my Sport (contributing heavily to my early and extreme pump and only time at height will answer for that. One day I shall be able to get more than three bolts up without clinging on hard enough to crush Granite, as I could in my carefree youth).

36chambers

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For the bouldering grade, I'd think it should be something like your *general* max grade. i.e. a grade you've climbed a good handful of, not your probably-soft best effort, with one move that totally suited you, 5 years ago.

Pull-ups: ~25
One-armers: 1
Max grade: 7B+ 7A

Fixed that for you :whistle:

Danny

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Saddle Tor Traverse and Mako (coz it’s meant to be soft at).


If had your arms I'd probably drive to the peak and do the joker and/or similar 1-3 move burl-fests. Might see you on the moors sometime!

mrjonathanr

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Years ago I fell off Bored of the Lies 7b+ at Chee Dale Cornice, then an hour or two later found myself one arming the Weedkiller jug at the Tor.

I'd say the correlation is pretty much imaginary.

highrepute

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10 / 0 / 8A

I'd say zero correlation. I'd suggest that getting on above 8A more peeps will be able to do one-armers but I don't think that should be an indication of causation.

Coops_13

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For the bouldering grade, I'd think it should be something like your *general* max grade. i.e. a grade you've climbed a good handful of, not your probably-soft best effort, with one move that totally suited you, 5 years ago.

Pull-ups: ~25
One-armers: 1
Max grade: 7B+ 7A

Fixed that for you :whistle:
4 or 5 not that?  :furious:

andymarshll

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Somewhere between 20 and 30
A bit of one
7C+

Used to be able to do three good one armers but I'm definitely bouldering harder now cos my fingers are a lot stronger. The hardest I've done was probably at my absolute nadir of one-armer ability cos I weighed the least I've weighed in a decade.

Danny

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Years ago I fell off Bored of the Lies 7b+ at Chee Dale Cornice, then an hour or two later found myself one arming the Weedkiller jug at the Tor.

I'd say the correlation is pretty much imaginary.

Your anecdote is...anecdotal.

If correlations exist I'd expect them to be weak, with lots of noise. In the extremes, if you can't do any with two arms, you can't do any with 1. So far the only respondents who can do 1 armers can also do the most pullups. Correlations between 1 and 2s wouldn't be a total shock. Bouldering grade a tricky one, but as the highrepute says, it wouldn't be a total surprise to see a (weak) correlation with 1 armers in the higher grades.   

I didn't actually lay out any expectations in the first instance, and I certainly didn't imply causation. 

mrjonathanr

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Tautologous.

My anecdote is factual, the inference simple to make:

There's a gulf between climbing performance and specific limited range movements which does not allow for a meaningful correlation between the two.

Danny

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'Meaningful correlation'.

And it's three. Between the *three*.

turnipturned

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Pull ups: Not sure how this relevant to bouldering when its more than 12-15? But probs plus 25 never really tried. Can do 10 with 35-40kg added weight.

One armers: None ( From hanging totally straight), two with slightly engaged shoulders. (I also don't really try them, is there a technique to doing one armers?)

Grade: Max 8B+, General 8A.


Teaboy

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As TobyD can attest, I can do all kinds of tricks on Bars and Rings and Campus rungs and 45* boards and Finger boards etc etc etc..
It must be quite the contrast of styles when you two train together, imagine how good a climber the composite of you two would be.

Danny

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Pull ups: Not sure how this relevant to bouldering when its more than 12-15? But probs plus 25 never really tried. Can do 10 with 35-40kg added weight.

One armers: None ( From hanging totally straight), two with slightly engaged shoulders. (I also don't really try them, is there a technique to doing one armers?)

Grade: Max 8B+, General 8A.

Pullups: I was more interested in correlations with 1-armers. You're right that in the 20+ camp it's not likely to correlate to bouldering grade. Maybe sport if you're Stevie Haston. Also, well done on that last obscure 8B+ you did.

Luke Owens

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About 20
None - Can lock-off one armed very briefly
Max: 7B
Generally: 7A/+

 

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