[shark]

11.6-8

M. Rest day. We went to the beach (not far). I disappeared discretely around the corner to go for my first ever skinny dip. A Greek fisherman hoved into view and got to see more tackle than usual

T. Headed back to Elona with two routes in mind but stopped off en route at a crag in the sun (Adrspach Wall). Did a 6b, 6a+ and a 7a to warm up. At Elona first target route was free so jumped on it (Parnhihida 7a+). Steep tufa climbing. Climbed well but suddenly got shut down one move short of the belay. Realised Id missed the jug. Came down. Keith did it. Then some retard photographer muscled in and did it with rests and fixed a rope off the belay to photo Daila whatishername. I redpointed it but my irritation was probably apparent. Down the slope to the main event - Diet Dope 7b. Keith flashed it. My turn. Was expecting to get shut down at half height but climbed quickly and dynamically and got to belay without trauma. Belayed Basher. He got it too but what a thug.

W. Twin Caves. One of the crags near the town. Just us there when we arrived but probably 40 more in less than an hour. Warmedup on a shit 6b+. A 7a+ wall to the right caught my eye as being right up my strasse. Was ace and onsighted before it got too hot. Steve left the draws on the classic tufa 7b+ right again (Bonobo) and managed to flash it but declined attempting the 7c extension. After that we went to a crag that translates as the Goat House. Nothing unoccupied inspired so I did a stint of belay duty       

T. HADA. Decent walk in but just us there all day. Different style of climbing. Warmed up on a 6c wall then onsighted a 7a/+ wall to the right. Got Keith to put in the draws on the 7b+ to the right again on the way down. Put in a big effort for the onsight but read it wrong on the crimpy crux. Having clung in there I was too boxed to even dog it well. Keith did much the same and came down. I had a redpoint but came off the crux. Then led to the top and refined some moves on the way down. Fingers felt boxed. Keith redpointed and then with a massive effort so did I       

F. Long day of travel

S. AM Snowy, cold. Headed out to cragx (sure people have been certified for less), Against all expectation it was dry. Attempted JR and nearly got it except for a foot fault. Went back to the car to get warm. Rudely interupted by TT's grinning mug pressed against the window. We went down again. Another near success on JR thwatred by foot flaw. TT left. Holds starting to get wet. Found I was too tired to do Moffatrocity start so sacked off plan to go to Tor and went home instead.

S. Lie in PM Out to Tor. Snowing. Two friendly guys there - one on Ben's. Showed me options on the finishing section and I found it a lot easier than three? years ago. Managed to do the toe hook by taping up my toes as they are painful to do in the whites. Had some goes on Weedkiller and felt strong on it falling twice going for jug at the end of traverse. At home did a fingerboard and weights session

Cool week in Greece. Good company, good rock, good banter. Think I performed far better than I deserved too having pretty much only bouldered for the last four months.  Did a lot of thinking and some chatting and reading to clarify my thoughts on prepping for the Oak in the Spring (which I'm syked for). Think Im going to keep up the same level of outdoor bouldering but throw in ancap, aerocap, weights and fingerboard work so build on bouldering gains base with more volume of other stuff. Got an enforced rest week over xmas (family skiing trip) 

[moose]

So, success in the coming year just requires mastery of ancap, aerocap, weights, and fingerboarding?! Piece-of-piss!

[shark]

So, success in the coming year just requires mastery of ancap, aerocap, weights, and fingerboarding?! Piece-of-piss!

I didn't say mastery or that success is assured - it's my best guess at what I should do - it certainly won't be a piece of piss -  are you taking it?

[moose]

Not at all, despite my regrettably snidey tone, I really admire your enthusiasm and ambition; my own stores of those attributes is deeply eroded at the moment. I already hate this winter (and there's still around 3 months to go ) - I just feel like I'm marking time and wish I could hibernate.  Your attitude and forward planning is a bit of a kick up the arse really - I should view the coming months as an opportunity for targeted improvement.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - fingerboarding test: 1 cm, + 40 kg 5". Could have done a couple more probably but elbow was complaining.
Tue - light climbing.
Wed - cleans 5-3-1 week 2. Getting serious.
Thu - weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - system static, full crimp + 8 kg; snatch, greasing the groove with empty bar, focus on speed. Boxing bag, brilliant, was super recruited.
Sun - more empty bar training; farmer's walk, 100 kg: 1'; 30"/30" x 5; 1'. I wonder how I'll walk tomorrow.

Difficult week, had to cut volume to a minimum but intensity was high.

[Nutty]

Two poor weeks to report:

Weight: 67.2kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

27th Nov - 3rd Dec: Felt knackered at the beginning of the week (probably over-did it the week before) so took a couple of days rest. Weekend was taken up with DIY jobs that took too long (discovering and fixing previous owner's bodges).

M: Rest.
T: Rest.
W: Short garden board session, with stretching between problems.
T: Nothing.
F: Nothing.
S: DIY.
S: DIY.

4th - 10th December: Low psyche at the beginning of the week. Father-in-law staying over the weekend and little one and wife being ill took up the end of the week.

M: Nothing.
T: Nothing.
W: Nothing.
T: Had the day booked off with a morning free, planned to do a big long run. Instead, the little one was sick twice in the morning so ended up looking after him. Did get an evening run in, 8.5km tempo run at 4:00min/km pace.
F: Nothing.
S: Bit of a walk in the afternoon (getting desperate here).
S: Wife was ill so looking after the little one. Didn't fancy running in the slush in the evening.

Two poor weeks training wise. Pleased with the pace of the tempo run though, probably can tick a sub 20min 5k during that and shows I have the pace for the sub 41min 10k especially given the hills on the route I ran. Need to do better on the run up to Christmas.

[tommytwotone]

M - nowt
T - gym session on lunch - 200 reps of various things inc press, box jumps, KB swings, lunges and goblet squats
W - oh my god my legs hurt
T - see Weds
F - see Weds, then the worst night's sleep ever with neither child sleeping any more than about an hour at a time
S - nowt
S - took Clem to the wall for the first time - pleasantly surprised that he sat and watched happily while I climbed, he enjoyed crawling about for a bit too


Nice to climb on Sun, did some volume but felt fat, weak and unpsyched.

[36chambers]

M: Day off work. Brimham. Improved beta on Pinky SS but then discovered I still don't know how to top out the stand... Could be due to scrittle or lack of imagination on my part, but I have since been given some interesting suggestions to try out.
T:
W:
T: Indoors. Felt piss weak on the board but did manage the 6 hardest comp problems without much hassle instead.
F:
S: 11 strong trip to Northumberland. Hepburn. Cold. First time on Preparation H, took a while to warm up but found myself falling off 2 moves from the top a number of times. In hindsight I was using poor foot beta. Big feast and games in the evening.
S: Bowden. Born Lippy round 2. Freezing, but everything bone dry. Took a long time to warm up and just before I could pull on from the start heavy snow arrived dumping 2-3 inches in not long at all. Thankfully we were able to drive the cars back to the safety of Belford.

No hard ticks but a very good weekend with great company.

[T_B]

M - Lunch. Autobelays - 11 routes up to 7a+.
T - PM board. Pretty darn feeble. Finished on fingertip pull ups.
W -
T - Lunch Wave. Hanging in there. Just.
F -
S -
S - PM board. Surprisingly strong and felt light and fresh.

Yet another dull entry as my main focus at the mo aint climbing. That said I was weirdly streng on my board on Sunday night (did one of the benchmark 'hard' problems), maybe due to not being knackered from other training? All this maintenance training is good in the sense that I have no injuries.

Off to Argentina at the end of this week with work to walk uphill very slowly, though there might be a chance to do some bouldering.

[GazM]

All a bit utilitarian this week. No rock, lots of time trying to keep warm in dark, chalky hovels:

Mon - Dropped car at garage and ran to work, back again in the evening = 2 x 5km
Tues - nothing
Weds - Beastmaker, 5 x 10sec deadhangs on various hold combinations.  35^os felt like soap.
Thurs - nothing
Fri - lunchbreak on Rich's board: cold, rushed and hard. Hung off Rich's 35^os on his BM2K while warming up, nice to know a bad workman can blame his tools.  Evening session on my board: cold and tired.
Sat - Back on my board, felt much better.  Knocked off some classics and made two new projects.
Sun - Beastmaker, 5 x 10sec deadhangs on various holds, including smalls + 9kg.  35^o felt like soap again.  Bit annoying that a training device is so conditions dependent as I want to work on sloper strength.

What are people's thoughts on training sloper strength on a fingerboard?  Is openhanding the small BM2K rungs doing a similar job to hanging the 35^os?

[duncan]

Simon, would you recommend Leonido to a punter like me? Sounds like the middle grade routes were rather busy already.

TTT, that sounds like an OK week for a man in your position, it’s all too tempting to give up completely. You have to keep doing something, if only to maintain the habit of exercising.

STG - Don’t get injured. One fingerboard session and one steep bouldering session per week. Shoulder stretches and strength work 3x weekly. Stablise weight.
MTG - 7a by the end of 2017. V4 on the Westway steep board by next March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; various long, hard and free.

M - Fingerboard, 19mm edges. Stretches.
T - Stretches. Shoulder strengthening.
W - Westway with Lois Lane. Social session mainly, steeper bouldering to ~V2 and comp. wall routes to 6b+. Stretches.
F - Stretches, strengthening.
S - More social obligations so missed what looked like decent weather. Westway bouldering: managed most of the new Oven mauves (~V3) and played on one of the blacks (~V5). Good session.
S - Felt battered. Interval training on Parliament Hill (aka sledging). Shoulder strengthening.

Eating too much, weight up to +4kg. One good fingerboarding session, one good bouldering session, and some fun climbing with an old friend made for a decent week. Biggest result: negotiating the snow and ice on Sunday without killing or injuring either of us.

Plan: keep going with the fingerboarding and bouldering. Stablise weight. End of the week looks promising for some outdoor climbing.

[Bradders]

STG - Zoo York (probably more like a MTG at least but I'm being optimistic!), Crazy Legs Chrome
MTG - two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, would love to do West Side Story, The Terrace, Ben's Groove Sit, Lager3, Sideliner, The Golden Egg & The Fonz.
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - went to look at wet rock at Caley and managed to lose my dog for half an hour. Kind strangers thankfully got hold of him. Afterwards went to Whitehouses and got close on Crazy Legs Crome. Did it from the lip at least which is probably about 7B.
T - tired
W - lunch gym, volume squats and a bit of TRX
T - Depot, managed the harder pinks bar 28 (can't fathom this newfangled comp style) and 30 (which was rinsing my skin). Also did lots of woods and a few purples, good volume session.
F - manic day at work before holiday
S - snowy day out to Crookrise. Very cold with occasional snow showers. Opened accounts on Sideliner and Sole Fusion. All the moves and link through from the start to the heel hook on the former and made it to the move to the lip on the latter. Good day with a strong team.
S - rest, Christmassy walk in the snow.

[shark]

Simon, would you recommend Leonido to a punter like me? Sounds like the middle grade routes were rather busy already.

Yes - it seems to be a bit too new and fashionable at the moment. I noticed on 8a.nu that on the new crags list it was trending in second place at 57% although I have no idea what any of that means.

We avoided Mars one of the more popular crags altogether as it has excellent mid grades to a lower off so to get on the harder good extensions you generally have to queue.

Basically the closer to the town and the road the crag is, the more popular it is likely to be. 

[measles23]

Two poor weeks to report:

Ditto:

68.8kg

Wk 1:
M- nowt
T- beautiful siege session on vanilla sky - dappled sunshine reflected off the river, sweet conditions.. linked everything post crux a couple of times and started trying to link off the floor - hitting the sloper every time and a couple of times nearly holding the swing as feet came off..
W- nowt
T- nowt - skin too fucked for max hangs and just felt like not doing my deadlift session - first time in about 4 months I’ve missed it 
F- Max hangs BM micros open crimp 10sets up to +40kg x 3s on the 10mms
S- nowt
S- 2hrs Stoke AW problems up to V6 os and a short play on the moonboard

Wk 2:
M- nowt
T- another session of great conditions at Woodys on vanilla sky - again felt solid linking everything post crux so started trying off the ground - a subtle change of breathing beta and boom - linked through the crux, wapped the heel on solidly but couldn’t find the next hold in a sea of whiteness and the heel gave way.. Gutted but for the first time I know I can do it, if conditions hold and Christmas doesn’t corrode my athletic physique!
W- nowt
T- again no DL wtf?! Just didn’t want to do it
Thinking instead to have a board session on Thursdays in place of my DL session so went to Stoke AW for an hour on the board - felt good
F- early doors due to some cancellations so went to gym:
DL (I know a very short relationship break): 10 sets nice and easy - a bunch of singles at 200
3 sets 1 armers singles medium quality
Weighted pull-ups 5 sets of +30kgx3 alternating head in front of bar and head behind bar.
S- great feeling DOMS from the weighted pull-ups
Max hangs BM micros (10mm) open crimp 8 sets up to +40kg x just 1s so down to +30 x 5s.
S- Stoke AW 2hrs problems up to V6 os and worked all the moves on the new cave V8 and some more time on the board.

[nai]

Last couple of weeks have been a bit Meh, been doing a movement & mobility program which is highlighting some issues.  Realised last week that I couldn't engage my right shoulder when trying scapular pullups, probably why initiating moves off that arm has been more difficult than the left recently.  Had a mauling off Loopy Lou which has helped, still a bit crunchy though, so might go back for more.

Been out bouldering a few times but have generally struggled.

Maintenance of AeroCap is going ok.

[Coops_13]

STG: Train and get out

M:
T: Arch. Strong session on the board. Almost landed on someone from the top of the 50, ended up getting kicked in the face 
W:
T: Arch. Another strong session on the board. Sent a hard project, third session. Maybe starting to understand the intensity I should be setting
F: Works party, only stayed till 2...
S: Secret Garden at first, all dry and snow free on arrival. Just as I worked out the beta on Beach Bum 7A, it started snowing. A helpful snow umbrella on the slopers from csl got me up it. We left to look for more dry rock. Mark's Roof buggered. Went to Stumphole Cavern and couldn't quite work it out. Ended at Gorilla Warfare boulder trying Jihad, too powerful a move from that sloper. Did Extended Gorilla Warfare 7A, pumpy!
S: Heard Caley was ok so headed north. Tried the top of Ju Ju Club 7B+ then it went first go from bottom! Fell off near the top of Ben's Groove 3 times, what a punter... Hands too tweaky to finish it off... Video below:


Good weekend and successful despite the snow. Psyched to keep training and get stronger 

[shark]

Is this a Power Rangers look?

[Dolly]

So I assume that the person who was living in Stump hole cavern has moved out and the mess cleared up ?

[duncan]

I was about to wad csl for his umbrella skills but decided puntering is the only possible response to that Dad Dancing so cancelling it out.

[Dolly]

M
T MCQ boulder again for another session on PNC with nai. Very cold, Didnt do it and destroyed my skin
W
T Shed power
F MTB in Gisburn forest in the snow. Brilliant. Described by another rider we saw in the car park as like riding in Narnia.
S
S More shed power

[webbo]

STG: Train and get out

M:
T: Arch. Strong session on the board. Almost landed on someone from the top of the 50, ended up getting kicked in the face 
W:
T: Arch. Another strong session on the board. Sent a hard project, third session. Maybe starting to understand the intensity I should be setting
F: Works party, only stayed till 2...
S: Secret Garden at first, all dry and snow free on arrival. Just as I worked out the beta on Beach Bum 7A, it started snowing. A helpful snow umbrella on the slopers from csl got me up it. We left to look for more dry rock. Mark's Roof buggered. Went to Stumphole Cavern and couldn't quite work it out. Ended at Gorilla Warfare boulder trying Jihad, too powerful a move from that sloper. Did Extended Gorilla Warfare 7A, pumpy!
S: Heard Caley was ok so headed north. Tried the top of Ju Ju Club 7B+ then it went first go from bottom! Fell off near the top of Ben's Groove 3 times, what a punter... Hands too tweaky to finish it off... Video below:


Good weekend and successful despite the snow. Psyched to keep training and get stronger 

Isn't Ju Ju club a sit start?

[Luke Owens]

M: Nothing - Sans sleep again due to ill child, starting to come down with something myself...

T: Lunch - Still a little run down, gym anyway to try and get psyched...
50 Crunches
30s Side plank (both sides)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
5 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)
3 x 15 Dorsal raises
10 x 10 Tricep Curls (4kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Pressups
2 x 10 Shoulder rotations (4kg)

Evening trip to out-of-hours, little 'un has a chest infection.

W: Eve - Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
20mm edge, half crimp:
R1: 9s,
R2: 10s (1.5kg)
R3: 8s (1.5kg)
R4: 7s (3kg)
R5: 6s (3kg)
R6: 8s (3kg)

T: Lunch - Bike 8.5km, 20mins, 65-70% of max HR.

Eve: Boardroom - Lots of volume up to 6C. Tried a couple of harder things.

F: Rest

S: Determined to get out and had promised my son I'd take him climbing. Full of a cold and felt a bit rough, but dug my car out of my road and headed to the coast, all wet and raining/snowing so kept going all the way to Porth Ysgo, completely dry, never fails to impress me how dry it stays down there.

Interesting logistics with a 5 year old at the crag on my own but he's very sensible and was psyched out of his mind over the place, couple of welly slab ascents for him.

Tried the low (original start) to Popcorn Party (7A+) managed to get through the lower moves about 3 times and best attempt was basically falling on the last hard move of the whole thing, really close but conditions were a little condensed, it went from 2 degrees to 9 degrees while we were there.

Consolation tick by doing Jawbreaker (6C) which I couldn't get anywhere near doing a few years back.

Bumped into Owen and Finn Haywood at the end of the day and watched Finn lap Popcorn Party after just doing a 7C FA and repeating Tide of Dreams (7C+), very impressive for his age, think he's about 11?

Great day.

[shark]

S More shed power

Can I come and get shedded with you this week?

[Murph]

Thanks for sharing all the psyche here guys, specially Coops of course with his regular dose of leg squirming up the difficult sections! I would wad if I knew how 

My recent ten twelve week plan to 1. attain ultimate form 2. climb lifetime project and 3. get of this planet inevitably ended in flames a few weeks ago. The usual combustibles were at play - namely a lack of synergy between illness, wellness, mojo and life.

Down the wall today though was wad central - they were all there, Alex, both the Bens, strong Dave, even Jerry was around. Seeing them there reminded me that what I am shooting for isn't even that hard. I'll give it another go with renewed commitment. No sense heading into 2018 from a standing start. It's not like there's a medal for starting a year in the worst possible shape.

Last week, FWIW:
One run, one wall session, too many biscuits and too many beers.

Stay powerful everyone.

[Coops_13]

I'll give it another go with renewed commitment.

Keep at it Murph! 

[measles23]

3. get of this planet

Fluffed the astronaut training program application? Or does the finishing jug of AT count as off this planet??

Most here get some burnout from time to time - like nibs said to me after his meltdown try a week or two “de-load” just to find your mojo again..

Then get back on the muthafuckin fingerboard

[nai]

So, success in the coming year just requires mastery of ancap, aerocap, weights, and fingerboarding?! Piece-of-piss!

I didn't say mastery or that success is assured - it's my best guess at what I should do - it certainly won't be a piece of piss -  are you taking it?

FWIW I reckon this sounds pretty decent.  Not sure about the weights, unless you're trying to address a specific weakness, that time could possibly be better used on something else.  And with the caveat the the AeroCap should involve shuffling around on 6a territory rather than just doing your system board stuff.
Later on perhaps reduce the bouldering and add in route length PE work?

[nai]

Last week, FWIW:
too many biscuits

Nice

[shark]

FWIW I reckon this sounds pretty decent.  Not sure about the weights, unless you're trying to address a specific weakness, that time could possibly be better used on something else.  And with the caveat the the AeroCap should involve shuffling around on 6a territory rather than just doing your system board stuff.
Later on perhaps reduce the bouldering and add in route length PE work?

 

Have you and moose swapped profiles?

Re the weights that is 20 mins work tagged on after fnigerboarding typically 1 x Bolton complex, 1 x db wrist complex and 1 x deadlift. There is some evidence that working bigger muscle groups promotes a better overall training response.

6a territory sounds more like ARC rather than AeroCap. I have found that 20/10s on a systems board has been my best indoor prep for an overseas sport trip so I know it works for stamina particularly for recovery at rests. I am up for doing stints on an autobelay

Phasing inroute length PE work sounds good which I assume is Aeropower/Anpower?

[moose]

Have you and moose swapped profiles?

Hey.... I did sorta apologise - and explain that my pissiness was mainly a manifestation of self-disgust at having comparatively little enthusiasm and vigour.

[Murph]

Fluffed the astronaut training program application? Or does the finishing jug of AT count as off this planet??

Most here get some burnout from time to time - like nibs said to me after his meltdown try a week or two “de-load” just to find your mojo again..

Then get back on the muthafuckin fingerboard

Thanks for the strong advice Matt.

Both AT and visiting space feel about as likely at the mo!