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Gom Jabbar (Read 14388 times)

andy popp

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#25 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 11:48:11 pm
And I had a really soft spot for Gardoms too, such a lovely crag.

sheavi

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#26 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 07:06:18 am
Still waiting to hear back from Si Jones btw. I've sent him the link to this thread

shurt

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#27 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 09:16:51 am
And I had a really soft spot for Gardoms too, such a lovely crag.

Yep, me too. So many great routes there. The E3's are incredible.

sheavi

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#28 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 09:55:18 am
Right so had a reply from Si Jones and this is what he says verbatim:

"It climbs on right of arete (palming with left hand) to two flatties then you reach the poison dart moment, firing for the jug with left hand off a lovely left foot paste and right foot drag. As Andy Popp says it is obscure and he should know ;)"

Simon is not a scientologist and isn't Muad'Dib.

Hope that helps!

andy popp

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#29 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 11:32:48 am
As Andy Popp says it is obscure and he should know ;)"

Haha. Ecky Thump anyone?

Bonjoy

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#30 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 12:28:25 pm
Me and Andy Crome had a play on ET on a rope ages ago. Neither of us could link the moves from what I recall!

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#31 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 02:50:10 pm
Nice one, the route always interested me to. Probably because of my obsession with the much maligned film version of Dune. I watched it again recently. Love it! Was going to have a look at it last year so I'd be keen to hear how you go on it. Happy to send you the photo or you can prob find me on Facebook and I'll message it to you

I agree Dune is a great film. Have you seen the documentary Jodorowsy's Dune? Its really cool and worth hunting out if you're a fan of the eventual final product....

Cheers Shurt, I'll check it out. Had a listen to him talking about it on YouTube. He had some interesting stuff to say about money and making Dune. On a different note e3's at Gardoms - I remember 'eye of faith'? being tough.

cheque

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#32 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 02:58:27 pm
e3's at Gardoms - I remember 'eye of faith'? being tough.

Either you had a nightmare or you've got the name wrong... Eye of Faith's HVS.

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#33 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 03:20:52 pm
Haha that grim mantle to the left of Moyer's buttress then ;)

andy popp

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#34 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 03:37:36 pm
Stormbringer. This was done in the mid-70s but the mantle itself was originally done in the mid-50s.

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#35 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 03:41:45 pm
That's the one, nearly as hard as King Kong with a grim fall potential I remember. I Remember thinking Ecky Thump looked bold and hard when I did the crocodile. Is it named after a comedy sketch or is that my imagination (again)

andy popp

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#36 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 04:18:35 pm
Yes, The Goodies.


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#37 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 06:09:27 pm
Haha, what are those sausages or coshes?

andy popp

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#38 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 07:11:15 pm
Black puddings, Ecky Thump being a little know martial art from Lancashire. So they're sausage coshes.

shurt

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#39 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 11:14:52 pm
Nice one, the route always interested me to. Probably because of my obsession with the much maligned film version of Dune. I watched it again recently. Love it! Was going to have a look at it last year so I'd be keen to hear how you go on it. Happy to send you the photo or you can prob find me on Facebook and I'll message it to you

I agree Dune is a great film. Have you seen the documentary Jodorowsy's Dune? Its really cool and worth hunting out if you're a fan of the eventual final product....

Cheers Shurt, I'll check it out. Had a listen to him talking about it on YouTube. He had some interesting stuff to say about money and making Dune. On a different note e3's at Gardoms - I remember 'eye of faith'? being tough.

As cheque says I think you've got Eye of Faith mixed up with something??

Stormbringer is the one I've not done, the mantle looks crazy and really committing - didn't know it was done in the 50s!! There are three E3s which are all highly regarded there. Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset are both brilliant, Stormbringer is ther third. Obviously Moyer's Butress is class too. Just a brilliant crag.

andy popp

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#40 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 08, 2017, 11:55:59 pm
Stormbringer is the one I've not done, the mantle looks crazy and really committing - didn't know it was done in the 50s!! There are three E3s which are all highly regarded there. Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset are both brilliant, Stormbringer is ther third. Obviously Moyer's Butress is class too. Just a brilliant crag.

As I understand it, Peter Biven used tension to get the jug/ledge (maybe from the left?) but thereafter did the mantle properly. Gardoms is normally regarded as having a quartet of classic E3s, the fourth being Sleeping Sickness. Personally, I was never very interested in trying either Stormbringer or Sleeping Sickness.

SamT

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#41 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 09, 2017, 08:54:54 am
Stormbringer is one of a trio of E3 mantles that are nearly identical... the other two being King Kong and Rat Scabies.  Being a short arse with short legs is finally an advantage!

Back on topic.  I'm just out of shot on that photo of simon on gom jabar having just cleared the top rope gubbins is way from the lip for the photo.

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#42 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 09, 2017, 09:38:33 am
Excellent thread guys - Si Jones, The Goodies, Jodowroski, Pete Biven and mantels  :2thumbsup:

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#43 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 09, 2017, 10:04:55 am
Black puddings, Ecky Thump being a little know martial art from Lancashire. So they're sausage coshes.

I think I'd rather mantel stormbringer than take on someone trained in Ecky Thump!

andy popp

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#44 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 09, 2017, 03:54:48 pm
I hope the OP reports back if he gets on the route again.

Johnny Brown

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#45 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 09, 2017, 10:34:25 pm
Gardoms is normally regarded as having a quartet of classic E3s, the fourth being Sleeping Sickness. Personally, I was never very interested in trying either Stormbringer or Sleeping Sickness.

After doing Eye and Moyer's to warm up, Cowboyhat and I fell into doing all these in a day earlier this year. All went swimmingly until Sleeping Sickness, after which nether of us had the energy for Stormbringer. The first move is getting on for 6b, then you've got the meat of it above. It's a decent route but I'm not sure it's E3.

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#46 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 10, 2017, 01:03:19 am
Phew, I just thought it was me being bad at climbing at the time, I remember having a tear in my eye doing the mantle. I think the only thing that got me up was the thought of falling back onto the slab below. Quite committing once you've reached out from the back.

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#47 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 10, 2017, 07:27:20 am
I failed on Stormbringer. Utterly desperate!

Johnny Brown

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#48 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 10, 2017, 08:51:36 am
Realised I was a bit ambiguous there, we didn't even get on Stormbringer because Sleepong Sickness was so hard.

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#49 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 10, 2017, 09:58:43 pm
Right so had a reply from Si Jones and this is what he says verbatim:

"It climbs on right of arete (palming with left hand) to two flatties then you reach the poison dart moment, firing for the jug with left hand off a lovely left foot paste and right foot drag. As Andy Popp says it is obscure and he should know ;)"

Simon is not a scientologist and isn't Muad'Dib.

Hope that helps!

Thank you and thank Si if he hasn’t seen this thread, went back this weekend but it was wet 🙁 I will try again this week if I can find a belayer.

 

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