[Richard Sharpe]

Does anyone know if there are any photos or video of any of the ascents Gom Jabbar has had? Just curious as to exact line/ what you can and cant use as holds

[andy popp]

I'm sure I remember there were photos of the first ascent, perhaps in the mags? I can't remember them well enough to give you any information but it means that should be something to track down.

[Richard Sharpe]

Thanks Andy have to find some old Mags then

[sheavi]

Could ask the first ascensionist Simon Jones
 

[Richard Sharpe]

I don't know Simon but if anyone happens to it would be cool of them to ask.

[sheavi]

I'll ask him. What specifically do you want to know?  Cheers

[Richard Sharpe]

Ah thanks, I would just like to know the exact line really, seems like you can stray left at the top to a jug and further right in the middle of the route. I thought pictures might have revealed that but i cant find any.

[sheavi]

Ok cool I've texted him and will hopefully get back to you

[user deactivated]

There's a photo in the old chatsworth guide. He's got the jug at the top of the arête in his left hand. Don't know how to upload it here - sorry

[Richard Sharpe]

do you think you Could fire it to me via email Dan if i drop you a message with my email?

[andy popp]

I have to say, this is quite an obscure route to be interested in. It always looked to me that the danger wasn't really outweighed by the quality.

[Richard Sharpe]

I have to say, this is quite an obscure route to be interested in. It always looked to me that the danger wasn't really outweighed by the quality.

Ive been curious about it for a while and put a rope down it today to clean and look for holds, having looked closely at it i think the danger can be reduced quite substantially with some pads on the ledge and and a few other things, it seems to climb very nicely and i think its worth putting some effort into.

[user deactivated]

Nice one, the route always interested me to. Probably because of my obsession with the much maligned film version of Dune. I watched it again recently. Love it! Was going to have a look at it last year so I'd be keen to hear how you go on it. Happy to send you the photo or you can prob find me on Facebook and I'll message it to you

[andy popp]

I have to say, this is quite an obscure route to be interested in. It always looked to me that the danger wasn't really outweighed by the quality.

Ive been curious about it for a while and put a rope down it today to clean and look for holds, having looked closely at it i think the danger can be reduced quite substantially with some pads on the ledge and and a few other things, it seems to climb very nicely and i think its worth putting some effort into.

Fair enough. Good luck.

[Johnny Brown]

Always looked to me like you could throw your leg left outat any point and bridge up at about HVS.

[Richard Sharpe]

Once you pull on bridging out is not possible until the jig at the top

[Wood FT]

The victory jig?

[Richard Sharpe]

Whoops 😂 obviously I meant Jug 😂 but I would fully do a victory jig at the top

[Johnny Brown]

Say you started by bridging, reckon you could reach the holds?

[shurt]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Falt0vVKnSOibY-wz8LAYsleT8gisuui/view?usp=sharing

Sorry about the bad quality. I'm holding a one yr old...

I LOVE the old Chatsworth guide. Excessive history section and great photos. A formula for all guides surely!

[Richard Sharpe]

Thanks 👍
Well there aren’t really any holds on the actual arête until just under the roof, I was working on the assumption that you would have to use the holds mostly on the face to the right side of the arête up till the roof then it migrated leftward to the jug at the top. If you climb it like this it is a very long way to be able to bridge up the corner. I can’t see how it would climb any other way?
 If you go in the corner obviously you could  bridge up till the roof and reach in  but isn’t that the same as saying you could bridge in the corner behind Ulysses and then meeting it after the hard climbing?

[Johnny Brown]

True, in the pic he's fully on the left though. Does make more sense if the rest climbs on the right.

[Richard Sharpe]

Maybe I’m wrong and it does climb on the left 🤷‍♂️ Going back this weekend and I will see

[shurt]

Nice one, the route always interested me to. Probably because of my obsession with the much maligned film version of Dune. I watched it again recently. Love it! Was going to have a look at it last year so I'd be keen to hear how you go on it. Happy to send you the photo or you can prob find me on Facebook and I'll message it to you

I agree Dune is a great film. Have you seen the documentary Jodorowsy's Dune? Its really cool and worth hunting out if you're a fan of the eventual final product....

[andy popp]

I LOVE the old Chatsworth guide. Excessive history section and great photos. A formula for all guides surely!

I have a soft spot for that guide too.

[andy popp]

And I had a really soft spot for Gardoms too, such a lovely crag.

[sheavi]

Still waiting to hear back from Si Jones btw. I've sent him the link to this thread

[shurt]

And I had a really soft spot for Gardoms too, such a lovely crag.

Yep, me too. So many great routes there. The E3's are incredible.

[sheavi]

Right so had a reply from Si Jones and this is what he says verbatim:

"It climbs on right of arete (palming with left hand) to two flatties then you reach the poison dart moment, firing for the jug with left hand off a lovely left foot paste and right foot drag. As Andy Popp says it is obscure and he should know "

Simon is not a scientologist and isn't Muad'Dib.

Hope that helps!

[andy popp]

As Andy Popp says it is obscure and he should know "

Haha. Ecky Thump anyone?

[Bonjoy]

Me and Andy Crome had a play on ET on a rope ages ago. Neither of us could link the moves from what I recall!

[user deactivated]

Nice one, the route always interested me to. Probably because of my obsession with the much maligned film version of Dune. I watched it again recently. Love it! Was going to have a look at it last year so I'd be keen to hear how you go on it. Happy to send you the photo or you can prob find me on Facebook and I'll message it to you

I agree Dune is a great film. Have you seen the documentary Jodorowsy's Dune? Its really cool and worth hunting out if you're a fan of the eventual final product....

Cheers Shurt, I'll check it out. Had a listen to him talking about it on YouTube. He had some interesting stuff to say about money and making Dune. On a different note e3's at Gardoms - I remember 'eye of faith'? being tough.

[cheque]

e3's at Gardoms - I remember 'eye of faith'? being tough.

Either you had a nightmare or you've got the name wrong... Eye of Faith's HVS.

[user deactivated]

Haha that grim mantle to the left of Moyer's buttress then

[andy popp]

Stormbringer. This was done in the mid-70s but the mantle itself was originally done in the mid-50s.

[user deactivated]

That's the one, nearly as hard as King Kong with a grim fall potential I remember. I Remember thinking Ecky Thump looked bold and hard when I did the crocodile. Is it named after a comedy sketch or is that my imagination (again)

[andy popp]

Yes, The Goodies.

[user deactivated]

Haha, what are those sausages or coshes?

[andy popp]

Black puddings, Ecky Thump being a little know martial art from Lancashire. So they're sausage coshes.

[shurt]

Nice one, the route always interested me to. Probably because of my obsession with the much maligned film version of Dune. I watched it again recently. Love it! Was going to have a look at it last year so I'd be keen to hear how you go on it. Happy to send you the photo or you can prob find me on Facebook and I'll message it to you

I agree Dune is a great film. Have you seen the documentary Jodorowsy's Dune? Its really cool and worth hunting out if you're a fan of the eventual final product....

Cheers Shurt, I'll check it out. Had a listen to him talking about it on YouTube. He had some interesting stuff to say about money and making Dune. On a different note e3's at Gardoms - I remember 'eye of faith'? being tough.

As cheque says I think you've got Eye of Faith mixed up with something??

Stormbringer is the one I've not done, the mantle looks crazy and really committing - didn't know it was done in the 50s!! There are three E3s which are all highly regarded there. Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset are both brilliant, Stormbringer is ther third. Obviously Moyer's Butress is class too. Just a brilliant crag.

[andy popp]

Stormbringer is the one I've not done, the mantle looks crazy and really committing - didn't know it was done in the 50s!! There are three E3s which are all highly regarded there. Crocodile and Waterloo Sunset are both brilliant, Stormbringer is ther third. Obviously Moyer's Butress is class too. Just a brilliant crag.

As I understand it, Peter Biven used tension to get the jug/ledge (maybe from the left?) but thereafter did the mantle properly. Gardoms is normally regarded as having a quartet of classic E3s, the fourth being Sleeping Sickness. Personally, I was never very interested in trying either Stormbringer or Sleeping Sickness.

[SamT]

Stormbringer is one of a trio of E3 mantles that are nearly identical... the other two being King Kong and Rat Scabies.  Being a short arse with short legs is finally an advantage!

Back on topic.  I'm just out of shot on that photo of simon on gom jabar having just cleared the top rope gubbins is way from the lip for the photo.

[Falling Down]

Excellent thread guys - Si Jones, The Goodies, Jodowroski, Pete Biven and mantels 

[user deactivated]

Black puddings, Ecky Thump being a little know martial art from Lancashire. So they're sausage coshes.

I think I'd rather mantel stormbringer than take on someone trained in Ecky Thump!

[andy popp]

I hope the OP reports back if he gets on the route again.

[Johnny Brown]

Gardoms is normally regarded as having a quartet of classic E3s, the fourth being Sleeping Sickness. Personally, I was never very interested in trying either Stormbringer or Sleeping Sickness.

After doing Eye and Moyer's to warm up, Cowboyhat and I fell into doing all these in a day earlier this year. All went swimmingly until Sleeping Sickness, after which nether of us had the energy for Stormbringer. The first move is getting on for 6b, then you've got the meat of it above. It's a decent route but I'm not sure it's E3.

[user deactivated]

Phew, I just thought it was me being bad at climbing at the time, I remember having a tear in my eye doing the mantle. I think the only thing that got me up was the thought of falling back onto the slab below. Quite committing once you've reached out from the back.

[T_B]

I failed on Stormbringer. Utterly desperate!

[Johnny Brown]

Realised I was a bit ambiguous there, we didn't even get on Stormbringer because Sleepong Sickness was so hard.

[Richard Sharpe]

Right so had a reply from Si Jones and this is what he says verbatim:

"It climbs on right of arete (palming with left hand) to two flatties then you reach the poison dart moment, firing for the jug with left hand off a lovely left foot paste and right foot drag. As Andy Popp says it is obscure and he should know "

Simon is not a scientologist and isn't Muad'Dib.

Hope that helps!

Thank you and thank Si if he hasn’t seen this thread, went back this weekend but it was wet 🙁 I will try again this week if I can find a belayer.

[bigironhorse]

Me and a mate also tried to do them all in a day, all pretty straight forward until Sleeping Sickness which I fell off the top of. Partly because it was filthy but mostly because its hard and I was pumped! Surely E4!

[grimer]

Sleeping Sickness is really brilliant. The E3s there, to my mind there are five, are SS, Crocodile, Waterloo Sunset, Stormbringer and Landsickness.

[andy popp]

True; Landsickness is good too.

[SA Chris]

Being a short arse with short legs is finally an advantage!

No wonder shurt and T_B are put off. Gives me an excuse too.

[deacon]

Can't have a thread about Gardoms and not mention Perfect Day. Although E5 it's probably safer than the classic Gardoms E3's. Really good moves in an exciting position, and stays dry in a shower so perfect for this time of year. Quality.

[grimer]

What sort of cheese protects Perfect Day at Gardoms crag?

[Wood FT]

Rock4

I’ve nicked from you too many times to recall

[user deactivated]

Nah, was a rock 2 (I remember the purple colour) and friend 2.5 / 3 at the top.

[grimer]

I'm pretty sure it is a rocquefort.