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Gom Jabbar (Read 14431 times)

Richard Sharpe

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Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 01:25:57 pm
Does anyone know if there are any photos or video of any of the ascents Gom Jabbar has had? Just curious as to exact line/ what you can and cant use as holds

andy popp

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#1 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 01:28:23 pm
I'm sure I remember there were photos of the first ascent, perhaps in the mags? I can't remember them well enough to give you any information but it means that should be something to track down.

Richard Sharpe

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#2 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 01:32:11 pm
Thanks Andy have to find some old Mags then

sheavi

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#3 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 01:46:19 pm
Could ask the first ascensionist Simon Jones
 

Richard Sharpe

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#4 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 01:50:43 pm
I don't know Simon but if anyone happens to it would be cool of them to ask.

sheavi

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#5 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 01:57:57 pm
I'll ask him. What specifically do you want to know?  Cheers

Richard Sharpe

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#6 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 02:03:27 pm
Ah thanks, I would just like to know the exact line really, seems like you can stray left at the top to a jug and further right in the middle of the route. I thought pictures might have revealed that but i cant find any.

sheavi

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#7 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 02:22:25 pm
Ok cool I've texted him and will hopefully get back to you

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#8 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 02:37:50 pm
There's a photo in the old chatsworth guide. He's got the jug at the top of the arête in his left hand. Don't know how to upload it here - sorry

Richard Sharpe

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#9 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 02:58:26 pm
do you think you Could fire it to me via email Dan if i drop you a message with my email?

andy popp

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#10 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 03:09:02 pm
I have to say, this is quite an obscure route to be interested in. It always looked to me that the danger wasn't really outweighed by the quality.

Richard Sharpe

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#11 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 03:14:35 pm
I have to say, this is quite an obscure route to be interested in. It always looked to me that the danger wasn't really outweighed by the quality.

Ive been curious about it for a while and put a rope down it today to clean and look for holds, having looked closely at it i think the danger can be reduced quite substantially with some pads on the ledge and and a few other things, it seems to climb very nicely and i think its worth putting some effort into.

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#12 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 03:28:30 pm
Nice one, the route always interested me to. Probably because of my obsession with the much maligned film version of Dune. I watched it again recently. Love it! Was going to have a look at it last year so I'd be keen to hear how you go on it. Happy to send you the photo or you can prob find me on Facebook and I'll message it to you

andy popp

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#13 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 03:44:29 pm
I have to say, this is quite an obscure route to be interested in. It always looked to me that the danger wasn't really outweighed by the quality.

Ive been curious about it for a while and put a rope down it today to clean and look for holds, having looked closely at it i think the danger can be reduced quite substantially with some pads on the ledge and and a few other things, it seems to climb very nicely and i think its worth putting some effort into.

Fair enough. Good luck.

Johnny Brown

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#14 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 06, 2017, 07:37:20 pm
Always looked to me like you could throw your leg left outat any point and bridge up at about HVS.

Richard Sharpe

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#15 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 12:35:11 pm
Once you pull on bridging out is not possible until the jig at the top

Wood FT

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#16 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 12:50:56 pm
The victory jig?

Richard Sharpe

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#17 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 01:12:30 pm
Whoops 😂 obviously I meant Jug 😂 but I would fully do a victory jig at the top

Johnny Brown

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#18 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 01:31:02 pm
Say you started by bridging, reckon you could reach the holds?

shurt

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#19 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 08:13:03 pm
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Falt0vVKnSOibY-wz8LAYsleT8gisuui/view?usp=sharing

Sorry about the bad quality. I'm holding a one yr old...

I LOVE the old Chatsworth guide. Excessive history section and great photos. A formula for all guides surely!

Richard Sharpe

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#20 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 09:31:27 pm
Thanks 👍
Well there aren’t really any holds on the actual arête until just under the roof, I was working on the assumption that you would have to use the holds mostly on the face to the right side of the arête up till the roof then it migrated leftward to the jug at the top. If you climb it like this it is a very long way to be able to bridge up the corner. I can’t see how it would climb any other way?
 If you go in the corner obviously you could  bridge up till the roof and reach in  but isn’t that the same as saying you could bridge in the corner behind Ulysses and then meeting it after the hard climbing?

Johnny Brown

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#21 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 09:37:35 pm
True, in the pic he's fully on the left though. Does make more sense if the rest climbs on the right.

Richard Sharpe

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#22 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 09:56:01 pm
Maybe I’m wrong and it does climb on the left 🤷‍♂️ Going back this weekend and I will see

shurt

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#23 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 10:54:09 pm
Nice one, the route always interested me to. Probably because of my obsession with the much maligned film version of Dune. I watched it again recently. Love it! Was going to have a look at it last year so I'd be keen to hear how you go on it. Happy to send you the photo or you can prob find me on Facebook and I'll message it to you

I agree Dune is a great film. Have you seen the documentary Jodorowsy's Dune? Its really cool and worth hunting out if you're a fan of the eventual final product....

andy popp

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#24 Re: Gom Jabbar
December 07, 2017, 11:47:24 pm
I LOVE the old Chatsworth guide. Excessive history section and great photos. A formula for all guides surely!

I have a soft spot for that guide too.

 

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