[duncan]

STG - Don’t get injured. One fingerboard session and one steep bouldering session per week. Shoulder stretches on non-climbing days, shoulder strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - 7a by the end of 2017. V4 on the Westway board by next March.
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; various long, hard and free.

M - Stretches.
T - Fingerboard 24mm edges. Stretches.
W - Stretches. Shoulder strengthening.
T - Westway - Steeper bouldering to ~V2. Stretches.
F - Stretches, strengthening.
S - School winter fete (psychological endurance training). Westway bouldering and routes: steep V2 and a comp. wall 6c flash. Tried a V4 on the Westway fridge board but could hardly hang on the holds, let alone move on them.
S - Coffee morning with ‘cellos (as above). Westway with the lad, who seems to be quite into climbing at the moment. Stretches.

Decent week considering work is still intense and everyone else in the family has been streaming snot. Social obligations meant no outdoor climbing but my immune system has thanked me for this. Depressingly weak and this seems terribly slow to change, I feel a long way off where I was 4 years ago when a regular at original London Bridge Arch (RIP). Must be patient and keep building gradually.

Plan: keep going with the fingerboarding and steeper bouldering. Stick with the shoulder rehab.

[Coops_13]

STG: Try and get back into training mindset

M: Biscuit. Strong session full of problems, campussing and the 50 board
T: B1. Mate was down and busy rest of the week so went again. Felt tired but did fairly well on a number of problems
W:
T:
F:
S:
S: Biscuit. Felt weak, heavy and tired.

B1 is shut for a month so gonna be on the 50 pretty much every session. May try to start doing some f-boarding too...

[Luke Owens]

Bit of weird week, I'm knackered...

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30s Side plank (both sides)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Hanging knee tucks
2 x 15 Dorsal raises (+3kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs

Eve - Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
20mm edge, half crimp:
+1.5kg - R1: 8s, R2: 7s, R3: 7s, R4: 7s, R5: 6s
Few hangs on the slopers also.

T:  Lunch - 50 Crunches
30s Side plank (both sides)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Hanging knee tucks

W: Had planned to go to the cave in the eve but daughter wasn't well

T:Daughter seemed better, short evening session at the boardroom, failed on a few things on the main wall and failed on every moonboard 6B+ I tried.

F:A really frustrating day, booked the day off work to do something nice with my other half, put the youngest in nursery for the day. Me and the missus like rollercoasters so decided to go to Drayton Manor for the day, booked tickets online, drove ~1hr 45 there to be told none of the rides were open...

After having no idea what to do for the day instead we decided to head back home. This took 3 hours due to traffic. 3pm by the time we got back, decided to do something only parents would do with free time and slept for 2 hours before picking the kids up...

S: Had planned to get out on the western grit with my son, forecast looked rubbish so decided to give it a miss until Sunday...

S:Daughter not well again and had been up all night so stayed at home in zombie mode all day (should of gone out yesterday!). My son now doesn't like his sister for ruining his day out climbing...!

[yetix]

STG: Electrical Storm, Monochrome, left wall traverse
MTG: Get strong for 3 week Albarracin trip in December and hopefully give la Fuente (stand) a decent attempt. Rock Atrocity
LTG: Brad Pitt, Paint it Black

63.7kg


M: Rest
T: climbed without any tape for the first time in probably a year. don't think I've climbed so cautiously in my life! Fingerboarding
W: Rest
T: Fingboard recruitment
F: Parisella's Cave. Nothing sent but close on a few things. Back again next friday evening I guess!
S: Lamps session at Curbar. No joy and everything felt a little damp. Had to go to sheffield afterwards to pick a friend up as his lift had broken their ankle.
S: Rockover, pottered about generally

[T_B]

M - Bleaustone - mostly trying black/yellow on r-hand side. Success.
T - Bleaustone - mostly trying black/yellow on l-hand side. Success.
W -
T -
F - Wave - felt OK, but not as strong as last wk.
S -
S -

Last wk ran 6hrs, walked 2hrs, climbed 3hrs. Just about keeping my hand in .

[TobyD]

M, ARC 50 minutes, in 4 blocks with 5 minute rests; knackered.
T, 30 minute road run in the late evening. Freezing grim weather.
W wave session.
T wave and moon board session. Lattice endurance afterwards.
F rest
S short hour session warmed up wave, did 2 level 3s, tried one or two more 3s and elites, did 4-5 moon board problems
S longer session on the moon board.

Feeling stronger for once; not sure how it'll translate to routes yet but quite psyched on trying short hard moves at the moment.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - system static + 8 kg, brilliant. Never felt so strong on it. PE high 30" x 2. Dumbbell complex 1/1 x 5.
Tue - rest.
Wed - PE high 30" x 5, tired. Cleans 5-3-1 first week. Used my new olympic bar, a treat! Lesson learnt: do NOT do any other training before 5-3-1!
Thu - rest.
Fri - ab wheel, weights.
Sat - system static on big holds, PE low 1' x 3.
Sun - snatch, snatch pulls.

[shark]

M.

T.

W. PM. Cold, cloudy and dry. Headed to X. Quite a lot of seepage and run off - figured too much to dry off to try Moffatrocity so left. Ignored the faint, distant call of the grit and went to the Tor. Amazingly dry. Even the Body Machine start was climbable. Played on Perverse reverse and weedkiller. Got closeish to repeating Weedkiller.

T.

F. Long day of travel to Leonidio with Steve, Keith and Rab

S. Elona. Reputedly the best crag. Impressive tufa walls. Could spend the whole trip here. Joined later by Chris Gore, Chris Plant and Basher who I knew and Chris Hamper and Phil Burke who I didnt, Dani Andrada also at crag, Good scenes. Managed to fall off a hard warm up 6c but managed to flash another 6c next to it. Quested up a 7a+ steep wall which Steve had pronounced hard. He wasnt wrong. Dogged my way up it. Tough on the skin. Managed to redpoint it it with a massive effort and was pleased to dig deep even though far from my best. Felt busted. Long rest then onsighted a classy 7a tufa route.

S. Nifardo. Less impressive but still good. Chilly. Keiths turn to put the draws in. Warmed up on two undergraded 6b+ tufa routes. Then a more standard but sharp 7a (more like 7a+) required a redpoint as felt busted from saturday. A classy 7a tufa went more easily. Was starting to get chilly so I put the draws in and onsighted a pocketed 7a wall with a big effort.


Rest day today (monday). First time abroad this year and having a great holiday but having mainly bouldered outside without much additional training for the last 4 months hardly surprising that I'm not at my best at onsighting. Steve is tearing it up as usual.

Looks like I will be staying in at the BMC next year and so starting to think how on earth I'm going to fit everything in to do enough training for and then repeatedly travel to try the Oak in the Spring 
         

[Luke Owens]

Looks like I will be staying in at the BMC next year and so starting to think how on earth I'm going to fit everything in to do enough training for and then repeatedly travel to try the Oak in the Spring 

Just train as much as possible and go and try it once in spring to benchmark yourself, if you're not close then go away and train again. Don't repeatedly go unless you're closer than you ever were before?

I'm glad to hear you're still psyched for it! Kill it Shark!

Enjoy Leonidio, looks mega out there!

[shark]

Hi Luke,

Thanks for your thoughts. Chatted it through with Steve and Keith now. We reckon at least 6 sessions before considering sacking off a long term Malham project because it takes that long to get used to the subtleties, style, finger bruising etc

[Dolly]

M autobelay routes at gym
T Couldnt get out until late and went to Baslow where I did Truffle Pig and thoroughly enjoyed it. Note from FA on UKC said that he hadn't managed it with the sit, but I thought that only made is very slightly more difficult.
W
T Only had a short time and nearly did PNC at Mother Cap Quarry boulder. I only had one mat and was a bit reluctant to throw for the last move without a second mat or a spot. Cold and sticky
F bodyweight HIT
S Kettlebells and core stuff at gym
S bodyweight HIT
[/size]
[/size]Just good to be out climbing again as all the building work is nearly done

[moose]

Shark, please keep at the Oak, just so that in years time, when I am still falling off Predator, I can seek solace with another victim.

[GazM]

No post from me last week through embarrassment at the lack of product.  Bit better this time round:

M - nothing
T - Beastmaker deadhangs
W - Quick hit at Cummingston on the way to a site visit to do the fun highball 'There's Something About Diana', 6C. Baltic.
T - nothing
F - Board session. First one for 2 weeks so felt expectedly rusty.  Still, I'm managing some of my past projects almost first go every session now, so not too bad in the big scheme of things.
Sa - nothing
Su - Bus Boulder, still working on The Hygge Project.  Progress on the move getting into the stand start, but the move into that one is yet to be sussed.  Psyche is high.

[Bradders]

STG - Zoo York (probably more like a MTG at least but I'm being optimistic!), Crazy Legs Chrome
MTG - two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, would love to do West Side Story, The Terrace, Ben's Groove Sit, Lager3, Sideliner, The Golden Egg & The Fonz.
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - Depot 50 board. Mainly tried my Zoo York simulator and started to link moves together.
T - TRX lunch session, Is, Ys & Ts trying to get more horizontal on the Is
W - rest
T - Depot, did a couple of the (surely easier) yellows inc. one flash then 50 board. Long session trying things right at my limit. Dropped the top of Austrian Mock and got the two halves tick of my ZY simulator.
F - rest
S - session on the real thing. On the plus side, I did the first hard move (RH drop in to sidepull) almost every time I tried it, felt steady. On the negative, I've still not done the crux move or the cut loose. Just not feeling strong enough on the left hand. Unfortunately the temperature rise and ensuing condensation stopped play early.
S - rest

On this evidence, my simulator probably isn't nearly hard enough but maybe that's not such a bad thing. I think the intensity is about right but the crux move is a fair bit steadier.