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Finger rehab: When to massage? (Read 467 times)

bigironhorse

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Finger rehab: When to massage?
November 27, 2017, 11:03:06 am
I have had an A2 strain that has been niggling away for months now, its got a lot better and I think that the main thing preventing a full recovery now may be a build of off scar tissue causing continued aggravation of the area. I'm after a bit of advice about massaging to break up the scar tissue.

1) Different methods of doing it. I generally just rub it really hard for 4-5 minutes in different directions across the sore area. Is voodoo flossing useful for dealing with scar tissue? Should it feel a bit sore the day after?

2) When to do it. Before or after climbing? Ice or alternating hot/cold afterwards?

3) How often?

Thanks

teapot

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#1 Re: Finger rehab: When to massage?
November 27, 2017, 11:18:30 am
I have had an A2 strain that has been niggling away for months now, its got a lot better and I think that the main thing preventing a full recovery now may be a build of off scar tissue causing continued aggravation of the area. I'm after a bit of advice about massaging to break up the scar tissue.

1) Different methods of doing it. I generally just rub it really hard for 4-5 minutes in different directions across the sore area. Is voodoo flossing useful for dealing with scar tissue? Should it feel a bit sore the day after?

2) When to do it. Before or after climbing? Ice or alternating hot/cold afterwards?

3) How often?

Thanks

I have a similar issue - think I may have scar tissue.

Previously I have sorted pulley strains relatively easily, but this one is bit more stubborn. I read an article last week on UKC which has inspired me to take a more structured approach to rehab. Worth a read.

I have a massage ring and a plastic roller device. Neither really go deep enough to break down scar tissue I imagine.


bigironhorse

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#2 Re: Finger rehab: When to massage?
November 27, 2017, 12:07:01 pm

Previously I have sorted pulley strains relatively easily, but this one is bit more stubborn.

Tell me about it! I first noticed this months ago and it just felt like the kind of niggle that will be gone again in a week...

sheavi

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#3 Re: Finger rehab: When to massage?
November 27, 2017, 12:32:08 pm
Massage will not breakdown scar tissue.  Might have an analgesic and placebo effect.  Exercise rehab the way to go.

sheavi

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#4 Re: Finger rehab: When to massage?
November 27, 2017, 12:50:14 pm
I should add that only repeated mechanical loading through exercise will ensure that the area heals well and that there are no restrictions to movement from any excessive scar tissue formation.  No way can a few minutes of massage breakdown the collagen fibres sufficiently.  I'm not aware of any quality research that supports massage in this regard over and above placebo effect.

bigironhorse

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#5 Re: Finger rehab: When to massage?
November 27, 2017, 03:56:25 pm
Massage will not breakdown scar tissue.  Might have an analgesic and placebo effect.  Exercise rehab the way to go.

Thanks

Hmmm.. if thats the case I guess I'll just stop with the massage and keep up with doing a load of easy climbing and avoiding crimps


thekettle

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#6 Re: Finger rehab: When to massage?
November 27, 2017, 07:38:30 pm
It might be worth having a listen to the Esther Smith podcast on finger injury rehab from Training Beta:
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/esther-fingers/?portfolioCats=72
I've found her method of progressive weighted hangs on a fingerboard very effective for stubborn niggles. Careful climbing only gets a certain (unpredictable) amount of strengthening achieved. Beyond that some more structured rehab is the way to go.