[shark]

11.5-7

M.

T. PM. Roving reporter TT texted that kudos wall was wet so canned going to X. Went on systems board. Repeatedly crushed my benchmark strength moves and tried some harder ones. Stronger than ever. Shame I wasn't at X to unleash the beast.

W. Planned to go out but was busted from board session. Weather looked iffy too

T.

F. PM Cold, blue skies. Was expecting X to be seeping. Some seepage but not affecting any of the problems. Repeated JR. Best go on Moffatrocity was from start (jumping off a folded mat before TT dobs me in) and into JR slipped setting feet up to go for intermediate before rail. TT popped down after his Rubers sess to taunt and heckle me

S.

S. PM Drizzly, cold, grey. Sore throat too. Moffatrocity still dry. Mick B and Dave B there struggling on Zippys :-) Warmed up doing top moves of JR. Had two goes on JR from ground and nearly got it on second. Good progress on Moffatrocity. Figured a marginally better way to hold the large sloper which made the lurch to the incut crimp high% rather than low%. Got through that move about five times from the start rather than usual one or two. Best go was start to going for intermediate before rail which was a high / long point.


Hope Moffatrocity is dry enough on weds. Even if it is it will be my last go of the year as off to Leonidio on friday for a week.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - ab wheel again; weights, static. Tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Elbow in my mind. Cleans 5-3-1 deload week.
Thu - light boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat -  boxing bag, hill sprints. Beautiful.
Sun - one arm hangs on 1,5 and 2 cm edges. Had to keep a straight left arm due to elbow, but was ok. Brief hangs (1") on 2 cm with 15 kg RH at the end of the session, plus normal hangs on <1 cm edge (included my BIFF edge). Weights and carries. The path is clear in front of me.

[Luke Owens]

Missed last week as not much happened apart from a very wet session at the Cromlech having some goes on Ultimate Retro Party. Also had an interview on the Friday.

So this week just gone...

Early Monday I heard I got the job, game changer money wise! 

M: Up in N. Yorkshire for Aerial Chainsaw Course, rained all day.

T: Same as above but not as much rain. Did loads more cutting.

W: CS39 Assessment, stormy rainy weather but managed to smash it and went really well. Passed, psyched.

T: Rest

F: Rest

S: Trip over to Porth Ysgo for the NWB guidebook launch, the Llyn provided good weather, great conditions. Did a few 6A+'s then a couple of goes on 7A+.

Went over to Popcorn Party. Did the 7A sitter version 3rd go then ran out of skin trying the lie down start 7A+ version, got really close though. Keen to go back and do it from there as it doesn't feel quite right only doing it from a sit... History n'all that...

Despite no skin tried another 7A+ as pads were there, no cigar.

Pub lunch after and over to the Caban in the evening for the launch party which was a good laugh, great day!

[Coops_13]

M:
T: Arch. Good session on the 50/campus board. Managed 1-4-7 on big rungs for first time for a while, 1-4-6 on medium rungs as well. Made good progress on projects on the 50. PB in muscle-ups to finish it off (10) 
W:
T:
F:
S: Arch. Hungover session. Ticked through some of the new comp set though not that psyched by any of it so back on the 50 Spent time making some projects harder, may have made them too hard...
S:

[Nutty]

Congrats on the job Luke!

Weight: 66.4kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Run. Long run as I din't get in my long run the previous week. 17.5km in 1 hour 20.
T: Rest. Foam rollered the legs.
W: Garden board session, with stretching between problems and a bit of TRX to finish.
T: Rest.
F: Run. 5 x 1km intervals at fast pace with 2:00min jogging rest. Hard! ~10km in total with warm-up and cool-down.
S: Rest. Walk in the afternoon and foam roller in the evening.
S: Long steady run. 20.2km in 1 hour 37.

Good week running wise, got some good distance in. Tickling half-marathon distance on my long runs. Climbing is taking a bit of a back seat at the moment as I'm more focused on training for the half-marathon and the running fits in better around everything else, though I might be able to go bouldering this coming weekend if the weather co-operates.

[cheque]

Early Monday I heard I got the job, game changer money wise! 

M: Up in N. Yorkshire for Aerial Chainsaw Course

Nice one on your new job Luke. You're going to be either a tree surgeon or a circus performer by the sounds of it.

[Luke Owens]

Early Monday I heard I got the job, game changer money wise! 

M: Up in N. Yorkshire for Aerial Chainsaw Course

Nice one on your new job Luke. You're going to be either a tree surgeon or a circus performer by the sounds of it.

Cheers. Haha, it's all worked out kinda strange, 11 years in the office, wanted to get out. Got my chainsaw tickets as I wanted to move into tree work and the week I get the last ticket I needed I get a promotion in the office...

Better job and better pay so we'll see how it goes...

Good to have the qualifications now though, If I end up needing them.

[yetix]

Congrats Luke!


64kg
M: Rest
T: Fingerboarding Recruitment
W: Rockover Moonboard session
T: Rest
F: Fingerboarding Recruitment then onto Parisellas, did Left Wall Traverse from one move in, managed to get through to the flake a couple of times from the actual start, but didn't quite finish it.
S: Parisella's Cave. Tried left wall a bunch more. Tried the first few moves of Rock Atrocity. but my ring finger felt tweaky on the undercut so decided to avoid.
S: Climbing Works, did the Wasps circuit, tried a few problems on the comp wall and tried a couple on the orange circuit.

[T_B]

M - Wave - felt much more on it than last wk. All the problems I did last wk, plus a white + black spots flash, and right hand black/yellow
T - Autobelays x 12 up to 7a+
W -
T - Wave - tired
F - Wave - mostly right hand side. Better than y'day. Trying tricky swirly pink through the low roof.
S -
S -

Generally feeling reasonably springy again..

[Bradders]

Nice one Luke!

STG - Zoo York (probably more like a MTG at least but I'm being optimistic!)
MTG - two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, would love to do West Side Story, The Terrace, Ben's Groove Sit, Lager3, Sideliner, The Golden Egg & The Fonz.
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - Depot 50' board. Climbed my project (Austrian Mock) and felt good throughout.
T - 45 min TRX session. Is & Ys to Ts at 45' then Ts in full press up position. Felt really strong.
W - rest
T - Depot climbed a couple of new purples. Then 50' board. Bit weaker, tried some new projects using smaller holds.
F - rest
S - rain overnight scuppered initial plans to go to Caley. Got out late after doing jobs at home. Went to Crow Crag instead and re-acquainted myself with Fluid. Didn't spend long on it; the undercut is just horrid. Went to Caley for 3pm. Zoo York was dry but most others not. Small group on it including one person I knew so joined them and had a pretty great first session! Flashed the stand then did the first couple moves first go. Did the first crux (RH drop in) 3rd go and felt close to latching the crux move. Now very keen for it!
S - quick warm up then 50 mins or so on the Depot 50' again. Flashed all my warm ups and had good goes on a new project from Thursday. Then made myself a Zoo York simulator and did it from the second crux so it's probably not hard enough.

Good week. One more week on the boards before a week of volume and then time off to get on the grit!

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. Short session on the 50, wasn't really feeling it, kept on firing off.   
W:
T: Fingerboard. First time trying 2 arm weighted max hangs. 8-9 mm crimps, 7 seconds on. Did about 15 sets upping the weight to 15 kg. Felt fine, would have added more but a sling around the waist is not the way to go.   
F:
S: Solo mission to Whitehouses. V.close to doing Crazy Leg Crome 7C+ but bailed because the wind was so unbelievably cold that there was no enjoyment (or feeling in the fingers) to be found. Ended up at Brimham trying Pinky SS 8A for the first time and eventually found some useable beta and managed the moves. Keen to return.   
S: Slipstones. Climbed Sulky Little Boys 7A+ and Lay-by Arete 7B+, which is something I've wanted to do for ages. Good day out.

[duncan]

Well done Luke. Mind how you go with those chainsaws.

STG - Don’t get injured. One fingerboard session and one steep bouldering session per week. Shoulder stretches on non-climbing days, shoulder strength work 3x weekly.
MTG - 7a by the end of 2017
LTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; various long, hard and free.

M - Westway - Steeper bouldering to ~V2. Stretches.
T - Shoulder strengthening (through range rotator cuff, planks, military press, dips, press-ups). Stretches
W - Westway - Not steep bouldering to ~V3/4. Stretches.
T - Stretches.
F - Stretches, strengthening.
S - Stretches
S - Winspit with the retired super alpinist. Social call from AJM and Martin   Struggled to warm-up, even the veteran of Central Tower of Paine thought it was chilly, Martin didn't look impressed either. Decided to keep moving rather than attempt a red point as originally planned, pulling harder felt like an injury waiting to happen. Managed 9 routes to ~6b+, a decent day under the circumstances. Bouldering might have been a better bet but Portland looked like it was under a black cloud the whole time.

Reasonable week, good to feel rock despite missing the better day of the weekend again. A fingerboard session short and and notable how weak I am on anything more than 15° overhanging.

Plan: steep bouldering.

[measles23]

The path is clear in front of me.

Powerful words

68.8kg

M- nowt
T- disappointing trip east to Anston; everything soaked
W- nowt
T- Max hangs open crimp BM micros (10s): 8 sets up to +40kg x 4s; happy - felt solid
DL: yet another dreadful DL session - failed to lift 220, just didn’t feel strong enough  mild sciatica and dieting prob not helping but I’m looking for excuses now.. 235 off 3” blocks was little compensation - the path is most definitely not clear in front and starting to think about sacking DL off, but then it’s such a good feeling when a big weight goes up, even off blocks.. Peak set tunes = My Curse by Killswitch engage.
F- nowt - borrowed the wife to hack some rib out for me to build a nose with
S- boy sick so no climbing
Max hangs 3 finger open crimp on BM micros - bunch of body weight sets on the 10s and 8s
S- boy sick no climbing
Few sets max hangs open crimp on micros up to +20kg x 5s
Nice walk down dimmingsdale - wife expressed a bizarre interest in Bizarre, while I fondled some pebbles..

Bit down as felt light and tight on Tuesday, ready for some proper goes on vanilla sky, but I can see all the preparation drifting away before good conditions ever come back - been there so many times before I sometimes wonder how anyone does successful projecting in this shitty damp little country 

[T_B]

Anston is the worst place ever for predicting conditions. Or so it seems, though maybe that's party the drive.

[nai]

mint yesterday according to the turning Plattsy

[shark]

The path is clear in front of me.

Powerful words

It's getting dark too dark to see

[measles23]

The path is clear in front of me.

Powerful words

It's getting dark too dark to see

Lantern session??

[Nibile]

The path is clear in front of me.

Powerful words

DL: yet another dreadful DL session - failed to lift 220, just didn’t feel strong enough

Cheers beast.
I feel your pain about the DL, but you can't be on a diet and expect to lift as heavy as before. If it were possible, the world would be a lot more peaceful. Fix your priorities and chase the prey. You can keep DL at, say, 60%.

[Dolly]

Had a cold all week so didn't do much


M
T
W
T bodyweight HIT
F 5 very easy routes on autobelay
S bodyweight HIT
[/size]S Nothing but I did have a turmeric chai latte in Brighton