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Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017 (Read 5246 times)

shark

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Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 19, 2017, 10:19:58 pm
11.6-7

M.

T.

W.

T. PM Crag X with Nick C after car shenanigans. Crag ok though penultimate (slot) hold on JR was damp. Struggling to do final moves off the ladder. Blamed the slot. Got a slightly better link on the Moffatrocity traverse but still didn’t manage to link into JR. Seemed to get greasy latter on so sacked it off and went to the Moon for a couple.

F. En route to Kendal stopped at board at my office for 40 mins on systems board. Some hard moves then one set of 20/10’s that Id not managed before. Late night at Kendal

S. Busy day at Kendal then drove back to Sheffield

S. Blue skies and crisp autumnal vibe. A sublime day to be out on the grit. Went to Crag X. Paul Reeve, Karl B and a pair of Foundlings there already. Drier than Thursday but a bit glassy. Eventually got the link I was after from starting hold (off the ladder) to going for the intermediate before the rail on JR when my foot skated off. They left and I played on the finishing moves discovering a useful foot move variant in the sequence.   

measles23

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#1 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 19, 2017, 11:07:01 pm
Thanks Shark

69.2kg

M- nowt

T- second session this year on vanilla sky at anston - good session despite weak conditions; got the crux move twice and linked everything above; couple of goes linking from the start felt good - hitting the sloper every time.. love the problem and the setting so happy to siege for however long it takes..

W- nowt

T- Yet another poor DL session: 15 sets but failed to lift 220 despite locking it out twice, then over balancing backwards once and forwards once - changed my stance to reduce my foot rotation to help with balance - finished with a bunch of isometrics..
3 sets of single 1 armers - poor quality
5 sets using the wedge for rows - 3 finger open crimp up to +84kg

F- nowt

S- Max hangs open crimp BM micros 10s: 9 sets up to (+35kg x 5s) x 4
Happy with that; qualifies to go up to 40kg next wk

S- Stoke AW 2 hrs problems up to V6 flash and V7 quickly - felt pretty strong

Unusually climbing and fingerboard going better than deadlift for a change, which is all good..

duncan

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#2 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 20, 2017, 09:09:36 am
STG - 180° shoulder elevation. Outdoor as available. One fingerboard session and one bouldering session per week.
MTG - 7a by the end of 2017
LTG - tbc

M - Stretches, strengthening
T - Fingerboard. Felt a little tweaky so kept to the larger slots. 
W - Stretches, strengthening
T - Westway, finger a little tweaky still so Aerocap (250m/500 moves).
F - Stretches, strengthening.
S - Portland Cuttings, with the retired super alpinist. Drove down through drizzle comparing medical notes. Greasy to start with and climbing in the cold came as a shock but conditions were pretty ideal by mid-afternoon. Warmed up on various culinary themed routes and had a play on Haute Cuisine. I usually leave 7as for the onsight when I’m fitter but this was a good choice to work:  bouldery and quite hard to read, 7a+ in the definitive. Got the moves and could have had a redpoint try but bad light stopped play. First outing for the pongoose clipsick which gets a recommendation from me. The horizontal carabiner position takes a little getting used to but works well. It’s a little heavier than competitors but feels a lot more robust and looks like it will last.
S - Stretches. Westway belay duties with the lad. Rossini Semiramide at Royal Opera House: conflict between religion and political power, succession struggle, mariticide, incest, crossdressing, the usual stuff. The originally story, set in ancient Babylon to circumvent the Austro-hungarian censors, is a natural for an updating. We got a nonspecific middle eastern dictatorship with hints of N. Korea and Trump. Very enjoyable.

Good week, finger strength work as per plan and some off-message easy aerocap (disturbingly enjoyable). Shoulder holding up.

Plan: continue with finger strength focused work for next couple of months, cautiously try some steeper bouldering.

Bradders

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#3 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 20, 2017, 09:32:48 am
S. Blue skies and crisp autumnal vibe. A sublime day to be out on the grit. Went to Crag X.

Wait, what?

STG - Tourniquet & Queen Kong
MTG - two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage. Would love also to do Ben's Groove Sit, Lager3, Sideliner, The Golden Egg & The Fonz.
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - Whitehouses. Started snowing on arrival but didn't last long and dried quick. Freezing cold in the wind. Repeated Rageh Omaar and FPR then spent about two hours trying Bush Bully via the drop knee method. Slapped the jug a few times but just can't quite hold the drop statically enough. Next time might just try pasting the right foot on and jumping. Also had a go on Crazy Legs Crome and the moves felt fine.
T - rest
W - 50' Depot board session. Climbed well. Did a really nice new link up the middle via undercuts and then hit a new high point on Austrian Mock.
T - lunch gym, TRX Is, Ys and Ts plus reverse flys, then some squats and barbell military presses. Nothing heavy.
F - short, easy Depot session, nothing harder than a black. Pre-weekend warm up.
S - Tourniquet 8A!!! Felt easy in the end. Good scenes with a friend ending a multi year siege and Ben Bransby arriving from KMFF and casually cruising it. Good connies surely helped, not to mention a big dose of confidence for me following previous achievements. Psyched to put it to bed.
S - went for a big long dog walk and pub lunch with friends. Perfect grit weather but I couldn't have cared less!

Nutty

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#4 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 20, 2017, 09:41:06 am
Weight: 68kg?? Not weighed myself this week  :spank:

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Garden board session. OK, but the dog two doors down decided to bark and growl at me for most of it which wasn't very pleasant and made me feel very conscious about indirectly annoying everyone in the neighbourhood whilst lit up at the end of the garden so everyone could see that the dog was barking at me. Sacked it off early.
T: Run. 35mins at a reasonable pace. Paced by feel as GPS watch battery was dead.
W: Rest.
T: Run. 5.5km at 4:01min/km pace, followed by 5 x hill sprints. Good session.
F: Rest.
S: Nothing.
S: Nothing.

Good start to the week, but tailed off at the end. Weekend was busy, ended up being back later than planned, eating late and not having time to train. Will have to have a long run this evening to make up for not doing one over the weekend.

yetix

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#5 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 20, 2017, 10:09:21 am
STG: start pulling hard on grit (Captain Hook, Electrical Storm, Monochrome)
MTG: Get strong for 3 week Albarracin trip in December and hopefully give la Fuente (stand) a decent attempt
LTG: Brad Pitt, Paint it Black

64.5kg


M: Rest
T: Rockover on the moonboard. left hand ring finger felt sore afterwards.
W: Rest
T: New Depot manchester yellows followed by some circuits
F: Rest
S: Parisella's Cave, tried left wall traverse and got it into two halves then went to the Jerry Moffat talk at the beacon. went back to the cave for a night session and somehow got persauded to try Rock Atrocity, got pretty close just need to get the match to the undercut dialed.
S: Tried to pull onto Rock Atrocity again. Felt broken so decided to call it.

36chambers

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#6 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 20, 2017, 10:22:18 am
M:
T: Indoors. Board stuff and one arm max hangs, mid low BM2k rung. 7 sec hangs. Fine with RH, struggling with LH.
W:
T: Fingerboarding. Testing new ~8-9 mm edge, with strict half crimp, two handed max hang. Did about 7 sets and it was probably too easy. Toyed with making the edge smaller, but it just felt more painful than harder. Might try with weights next time.
F:
S: Caley. Had a few good goes on Banana Republic 8A where I was an inch or so from hitting the finishing jug.
S: Pottering around with very thin skin.

T_B

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#7 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 20, 2017, 10:44:05 am
M - Autobelays x 9 inc 6c+s and flashed new 7a+
T - PM 1hr homeboard. OK.
W -
T - Wave - scraped up black on right, tried swirly pink. New shoes (Hiangles)
F - Wave - repeated black and did swirly pink. Better than y'day.
S -
S -

Psyche returning. Enjoying bouldering in the Hiangles - first 5.10 shoes in about 8 yrs. Despite being described as stiff, they definitely feel more sensitive than the VS-R.

teestub

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#8 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 20, 2017, 11:01:11 am
Which colour Hiangles have you got T_B? The turquoise ones are quite stiff but the grey ones are a lot softer. Not sure about the new fluoro ones (good old 5.10).

T_B

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#9 Re: Power Club 403 13th - 19th November 2017
November 20, 2017, 11:28:35 am
Oh I hadn't realised that. They're the Turquoise ones (2016 model I think). I bought em second hand so they're already well broken in.

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - ab wheel after ages; weights, static; trap shrugs; dumbbell complex. Brilliant session.
Tue - rest.
Wed - very tired from Monday. Doms. Cleans, warm up then PB 8 x 1 61 kg. Weights.
Thu - light boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - clean and press 5 x 5 46 kg. Boxing bag.

Good week, sadly I had to sack both the board and the fingerboarding due to my bad left elbow. It's going slightly better but it's still a nightmare.
Will start 5/3/1 for cleans this coming week and I really can't fucking wait.

shark

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S - Tourniquet 8A!!! Felt easy in the end. Good scenes with a friend ending a multi year siege

Boom!

Have a wad point

Coops_13

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M
T
W
T
F
S: Day at Caley as I’m not going to get out for a few weeks. Close to Ju Ju Club but couldn’t finish it, kinda battered me for the rest of the day. Conditions a bit soapy...
S

No climbing in the week left me feeling a bit week, probably psychological. Busy week this week too but will hopefully get to the wall.

GazM

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Good scenes folks. As a Power Club newcomer I'm really enjoying the collective psyche.  I'm 9 weeks into new parenthood so things are all up in the air with finding opportunities to climb and even train. The weather's been pretty crap up here too, so on the last 3 occasions I've had a few spare hours its been too grim to get out. I should be despairing but the Power Club psyche is strong and it's good to be reminded that I'm not alone in the work/family/play balancing act.

M - nothing
T - Beastmaker. 5 x 10 sec deadhangs up to small edges and 35s.  A couple of hangs with 1 hand on 8mm Micro and 1 on BM2K small edge. Manageable but not exactly pleasant.
W - Tried a lunchbreak Farr boulder session.  Managed Right Arete 6B before it rained and I sacked it off.
Th - nothing
F - Board session, repeating classics. Felt OK.
Sa - nothing
Su - Excited about a free afternoon.  Drove to Inchbae: wet. Drove to Torridon: wet. Drove home. Board session. Managed a project, a minor consolation.
 

Murph

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Good stuff guys. Wad point for Tourniquet Bradders! Coops - where's the psyche video? I look forward to my weekly dose of seeing you smash something. Measles - it's all about the process man!

Week 9 goals consistency lightness and strongness.

M-sub max training
T-sub max training, 5k run, works yellow circuit, fingerboard another 2017 PB - 9 seconds on 14mm BM1k w/+40kg
W-sub max, tweaked shoulder. Again!
T-7k run, recovery climb of sorts at works, shoulder not good
F-nope, shoulder impinged but total rest
S-11k run, shoulder a lot better, works wasps did about 20. Good session.
S-5k run, social stuff

Doing ok. Sort of. 64.3kgs lightest all year. And fingerboard says I'm going better than ever. Surely it's almost time...?

Dolly

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Haven't been on power club for ages


M Gym core and kettlebells
T Too wet to go out so good hard shed session
W
T As Tuesday
F Felt like I was coming down with something - went to bed at 9
S Bodyweight HIT and a Sauna
S Quick hit at Burbage North. Think I need a spot to have a proper go at All sit down as feel like I'm going to peel backwards

Coops_13

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Coops - where's the psyche video? I look forward to my weekly dose of seeing you smash something.
Aha, I’d have had to get up something for you to get one of those...

nai

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S Quick hit at Burbage North. Think I need a spot to have a proper go at All sit down as feel like I'm going to peel backwards

Keen to have a look at that.

goals - fitness, strength, emndurance, mobility

M- LI AeroCap
T - HI AreroCap
W - started an online mobility program. Day 1 learning basic moves
Th - Garage bouldering.  Day 2 of program - efining basic moves
F - Day 3 of program - effectively warm up and warm down stretches/moves
S - Ditto Friday plus Foundry with kids - few L2s between belay bunny duties.
S - Ditto Friday

Cutting back climbing to maintenance levels while I try to get mobility issues sorted.  The noises my left hip and right shoulder make during the mobility session warm ups are quite something.

Bradders

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Good stuff guys. Wad point for Tourniquet Bradders!

quote author=shark link=topic=28516.msg559955#msg559955 date=1511182333]
S - Tourniquet 8A!!! Felt easy in the end. Good scenes with a friend ending a multi year siege

Boom!

Have a wad point
[/quote]

Cheers all!   :icon_beerchug:

 

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