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Power Club 402 6th - 12th November 2017 (Read 8139 times)

Bradders

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#25 Re: Power Club 402 6th - 12th November 2017
November 14, 2017, 12:29:21 pm
STG - Tourniquet & Queen Kong
MTG - two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage. Would love also to do Ben's Groove Sit, Lager3, Sideliner, The Golden Egg & The Fonz.
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - Brimham late afternoon/evening. Skin was super thin from the weekend. Did Titfield Thunderbolt starting with LH on the good bit of the ramp which didn't feel like cricket. I've struggled with this a lot so it was good to at least do the last move. One day I'll go try it with good skin and in the cold. Then had first session on The Fonz and did surprisingly well. Managed all but one move (RH to arete) and linked from the start to the crux heel hook.
T - rest
W - bit of stretching and foam rolling at home
T - Brimham with lamps, second Fonz session. The move to the arete is proving frustratingly hard, just can't seem to keep the heel engaged. Consistent on the LH drop in at least and finding the link through easy.
F - rest
S - visiting family
S - visiting family

Been feeling a bit slack over the last three weeks since moving house, eating lots of takeaways and pizza and generally feeling a bit sluggish as a result now. Must tighten back up and re-discover my routine.

duncan

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#26 Re: Power Club 402 6th - 12th November 2017
November 14, 2017, 06:10:47 pm
STG - 180° shoulder elevation. One fingerboard session and one bouldering session per week. Shoulder exercise daily without fail.
MTG - 7a by the end of 2017
LTG - tbc

M - Westway Bouldering to ~V2. Shoulder stretches. Shoulder strengthening (through range rotator cuff, planks, military press, dips, press-ups).
T -  Stretches, strengthening
W - Stretches, strengthening
T - Fingerboard. 19mm edges x 5 secs.
F - Stretches, strengthening.
S - Fly to Spain. Chullila las lamentaciones, toproped routes to 6b.
S - Chulilla Oasis - led Los pagafantas 6a+ and Nazgul 6b+.
M - Valencia
T - Flew home. Fingerboard. 19mm edges.
W - Stretches, strengthening
T - Stretches, strengthening. Saw Physio. very happy with progress and discharged.
F - Stretches, strengthening.
S - Westway Bouldering to ~V3/UK6a.
S - Stretches, strengthening.


Climbing on rock! YYFY! Two months ago I couldn't lift my arm above horizontal due to nerve damage. It is just a joy to be back again.

Plan: focus on finger strength and bouldering for the next three months. Outdoor as  weather, family, work, health permits.

csl

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#27 Re: Power Club 402 6th - 12th November 2017
November 14, 2017, 08:07:58 pm
@coops - wadded for a great weekend
@duncan - wadded for rehab commitment

 

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