[Nutty]

Weight: 68.0kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Nothing.
T: Nothing.
W: Nothing.
T: Nothing.
F: Nothing.
S: Nothing.
S: Run. 14.5km at steady pace.

Knew this week was going to be rubbish training wise as I had my professional review interview on Thursday so the first half of the week was prep for that. Travelled to the in-laws for the weekend on Friday and back on Sunday. Consider getting 1 run in a minor success, especially as it was off-road and my previously rolled ankle held up.

[yetix]

STG: start pulling harder outside again (Captain Hook, Simple Simon, Monochrome)
MTG: Get strong for 3 week Albarracin trip in December and hopefully give la Fuente (stand) a decent attempt
LTG: Brad Pitt, Paint it Black

64kg


M: Rest
T: Depot Manchester - did some of the new purples . Campussing - 1-4-6 x5 1-3-6 x5 and 3x3 Muscle Ups 5x5 1 arm hangs -10kg left hand, -10kg right hand. Shit session felt very weak.
W: Rest
T: Shoulder was hurting and I still felt quite weak but had a good session ticking off the newer purples at the Depot with Galpinos
F: Rest
S: Stanage. Finally sent Captain Hook! and tickled the top of Deliverance. Gave Brass Monkey's a few goes but the second move seems ridiculous!
S: Had plans in Nottingham but managed to squeeze a quick session at the Depot in.

Glad to finally get Captain Hook ticked off and looking forward to getting on Jerrys Roof next weekend whilst I'm in Wales for the Mastermind talk

[GazM]

Nice one on Captain Hook Yetix!

Another week of quick hits and grabbed opportunities for me:

M - Nothing

T - Beastmaker: deadhangs 5 x 10secs up to smalls and 35s

W - Beastmaker: deadhangs 5 x 10secs up to smalls and 35s and then smalls + 14kg

Th - Rushed session at Farr Boulder during lunchbreak.  No progress on Farr Side Facet but did the sit start to Excitement in the Boys but ran out of time to link it into the stand.

F - Lunchbreak on Rich's board, aka the Bettsmaker.  My board is 35^o, his is 45^o.  His hurts.

Sa - Managed 30mins on the board before fatherhood intervened.

Su - Bus boulder was wet so got a good session in on my board. Managed a long-standing project.

Think I'm starting to feel some benefits from the concerted effort on the beastmaker.  Just need to keep it up until time and conditions allow deployment on rock.

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30s Side plank (both sides)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Hanging knee tucks
3 x 20 Dorsal raises
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Hanging knee tucks
50 Crunches
Stretching

T: Eve - Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
20mm edge, half crimp:
R1: 10s, R2: 10s, R3: 10s R4: 10s, R5: 10s

Psyched to complete a full session of 10s on the 20mm!

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30s Side plank (both sides)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Hanging knee tucks
3 x 20 Dorsal raises
3 x 10 Push-ups
50 Crunches

Eve - Boardroom: Various problems up to 6A+ as a warm up. Flashed 3 6B/6C, had a few goes getting close on a 7A-ish problem then had a few goes on a 6C+ put didn't finish it, felt pumped...

Had a few goes on a benchmark 6B+ on the Moonboard, figured out better foot placements than last time but still feels nails.

2 x 8min LI-Aerocap on the autobelay

T: Lunch - Deadlifts:
10 x 40kg
10 x 60kg
8 x 80kg
1 x 108kg (1.5 x bodyweight)

F: Eve - Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
20mm edge, half crimp:
R1: 10s
R2: 10s (+1.5kg)
R3: 8s (+2.5kg)
R4: 7s (+2.5kg)
R5: 8s (+2.5kg)

S: Rest

S: Early morning trip over to Newstones, never been before, the grit there is amazing quality.

5+, Itchy Groove (6B+), Sly Stallone (6C), Stallone Arete (6C+ Flash), The Ripple (6B+)

Wanted to try S & M but ran out of skin and time. Stallone Arete felt very soft for the grade especially as I flashed it. The Ripple had me right off, almost flashed it then took ages to actually do it!

[T_B]

M - Autobelays x 12 mainly 6b - 7a inc 2 x 7a / PM board - weak
T - Autobelays x 12 mainly 6b - 7a inc 7a
W - PM 40 mins on board. Getting there, better than Monday but still off the pace unsurprisingly
T -
F -
S - Pulled back (first time since 20 Nov 2016) cleaning the work surface 
S - Bad back, eased off by the evening.

Lots of lunch time meetings last wk which probably resulted in pulling my back on Saturday as sat down way too much and non of the usual lunch time activity. Trying to get back on it. Geddit.

[SA Chris]

Goals - no idea at the moment - STG do better in winter bouldering series. get back to 13st

M- bouldering session
T - nae much
W - core session in evening
T - lunchtime yoga (first in about 3 years), weighs in evening
F - lunch run, 7 km
S - Pool session while kids in lesson, managed goal of 1km in the half hour lesson
S - beastmaker session, first in about a year, so struggled through beastmaker 5b sequence!

[36chambers]

M:
T: Quick max hang fingerboard session on small crimps.
W:
T:
F:
S: Cliff. Pottering around repeating low sevens.
S: Caley. After a bit of beta tweaking I managed Banana Split 7B+, and so I've now done Banana Republic 8A in two halves and I'm all set for red points. Think this problem will be a test of luck and skin perseverance more than anything else. Good moves, pretty psyched.

[shark]

Campussing - 1-4-6 x5 1-3-6 x5 and 3x3 Muscle Ups 5x5 1 arm hangs -10kg left hand, -10kg right hand. Shit session felt very weak.

 

11.6-8

M.

T.

W. Afternoon. Crag X on way back from Man. Blue skies and cold. Aim was to see if I could do Karl's starting cross through move on Moffatrocity. Figured out a way to do it for me which worked well and did a few decent links from starting sloper (off ladder) and then when tired a couple of links from mid traverse to joining JR. Getting solid at doing it in three sections now. Two sections is the next aim. 11th session. I love it when a project starts coming together

T.

F. Afternoon. Grim weather driving out. Better at cragx. TT pulled up having just finished at Rubicon. Crag starting to seep in a few places. Solid on cross through now. Linked the first 6 moves about three times and refined foot beta

S.

S. Noon. Crag X. Cold. Joined by Pete Chadwick. Worked all sections. Doing more and better but no significant breakthrough though close to getting through traverse. Hard to stay warm. Popped to Tor just before dark and flashed to last move of Tin Of before falling off with a horrid pump.


Going to rest up till thursday then give Moffatrocity a redpoint attempt

[yetix]

Campussing - 1-4-6 x5 1-3-6 x5 and 3x3 Muscle Ups 5x5 1 arm hangs -10kg left hand, -10kg right hand. Shit session felt very weak.

 

Everything felt harder and had to be reduced compared to the previous few weeks!

[Luke Owens]

Campussing - 1-4-6 x5 1-3-6 x5 and 3x3 Muscle Ups 5x5 1 arm hangs -10kg left hand, -10kg right hand. Shit session felt very weak.

Effort on Captain Hook!

Weak? I have to take off 25kg to hang one armed and I only weigh 70kg...

[shark]

Campussing - 1-4-6 x5 1-3-6 x5 and 3x3 Muscle Ups 5x5 1 arm hangs -10kg left hand, -10kg right hand. Shit session felt very weak.

 

Everything felt harder and had to be reduced compared to the previous few weeks!

Yeah - I know its all relative. What edge are you hanging one handed?

[yetix]

Shark - BM2000 bottom centre edge (20mm I think?)

in previous weeks I've been able to do -6kg with my right hand (LH is weaker from an injury), but I was just dropping out of half crimp straight away this week

Luke - thanks! I just felt a lot weaker compared to previous weeks, is why I did an easier session Thursday pottering about

[gme]

Campussing - 1-4-6 x5 1-3-6 x5 and 3x3 Muscle Ups 5x5 1 arm hangs -10kg left hand, -10kg right hand. Shit session felt very weak.

Effort on Captain Hook!

Weak? I have to take off 25kg to hang one armed and I only weigh 70kg...

I thought you said you were doing 10 sec hangs on a 20mm edge with body weight and now starting to add???

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - dumbbell complex 20 x 3. Tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing, was feeling pretty strong. Shame about my elbow. PE high 30" x 2. PE low 2'20" x 1. Weights. Good session. Project feels close.
Thu - climbing class. Flashed the two hardest problems on the wall, so I should be very happy. Only problem, the first one wasn't harder than 6b and the second than 6b+. Woeful setting.
Fri - rest.
Sat - basket game. Had fun but pushed a little bit too much.
Sun - vert achey, knees, back, elbow, two enormous flappers under my feet, can barely walk.

[Luke Owens]

I thought you said you were doing 10 sec hangs on a 20mm edge with body weight and now starting to add???

Yes... with two hands... not one 

[Doylo]

 

[gme]

I thought you said you were doing 10 sec hangs on a 20mm edge with body weight and now starting to add???

Yes... with two hands... not one 

That makes sense now. I had you down as another one of those mutant deadhangers who cant climb. Why do you state alternate arms then?

[Doylo]

I think max hangs with no added weight are just called deadhangs.

[Murph]

Good to see your numbers going up Luke. Nothing like a fingerboard PB.

Week 8 - lightness, strongness, consistency

65.3kgs week average pretty flat all week. Still doing the Sumo Wrestler Diet. Still think it's a fantastic way to do it. Also think the metabolism crushing effects are overstated.

M-

T-Simple & Sinister kettlebells, 24kg swings, 16kg get ups.
5k z3 run was slow as hell but stuck with the programme.
Fingerboard max hangs. Awesome session. Up to 3x10s w/+40kgs on 19mm and then 6s w/+40kgs on 14mm. 2017 high.

W-

T-7.5k z3 run. Much better than before, fastest z3 by far. Feels good. Getting faster without trying to run fast. There must be read-across to climbing training.
Works session, hard problems.

F-sub-max training. S&S 16kgs, 3 sets pull ups, 3 sets press ups, dish routine.

S-sub-max training. 11.5k z3 run. Awesome again.

S-sub-max training. 5k z3 run. A minute faster than the same course, same HR as on Tuesday. Incredible.
Max hangs - another 2017 PB. 7s on 14mm w/40kgs.

Going to try sub max training as often as possible. I've got a bit of a routine there, it doesn't take long and I can (mostly) do it while childminding. The advantage is that it is less likely to result in injury and it must be of some benefit.

Really enjoying the max hangs and easy running.

[Luke Owens]

I thought you said you were doing 10 sec hangs on a 20mm edge with body weight and now starting to add???

Yes... with two hands... not one 

That makes sense now. I had you down as another one of those mutant deadhangers who cant climb. Why do you state alternate arms then?

As part of my warm up I put one hand on the 30mm and the other arm on the 20mm and hang, then alternate arms, if that makes sense.

I think max hangs with no added weight are just called deadhangs.

Max hangs just mean a max effort whether you use 1, 2 or 3 arms...

Deadhangs could be any amount of effort. That's what I've gathered anyway.

Good to see your numbers going up Luke. Nothing like a fingerboard PB.

Cheers! Nice to be actually sticking at it.

Max hangs - another 2017 PB. 7s on 14mm w/40kgs.

Going to try sub max training as often as possible. I've got a bit of a routine there, it doesn't take long and I can (mostly) do it while childminding. The advantage is that it is less likely to result in injury and it must be of some benefit.

Effort on the PB yourself, always good to find some training that works around kids too!

[measles23]

Will keep posting as power club seems to be the most resilient bit of the site, and thinking the best way to help the site stay alive is to post...

Agreed I presumed max hangs = fingerboarding with max effort for short hangs as opposed to repeaters/frenchies/other such fingerboard crossfit..

70.4kg

M- nowt
T- 30 min calorie burning on exercise bike
   Max hangs open crimp on BM micros: 5 sets up to +35kg x 4s on the 10s
W- nowt
T- Max hangs open crimp on BM micros: 7 sets up to +35kg x 4.5s on the 10s
    Better DL session than recently: 17 sets including a couple of 220s, a bunch of isometrics; loading the bar up with silly weights then spending 5s max effort trying to break the floor, in an attempt to stop me being phased when it’s slow off the floor- it takes about a second for me to generate max lift, and sometimes that’s enough for me to lose heart and give up... A bunch of 1” deficits at 190..
F- nowt
S- Max hangs open crimp on BM micros: 17 sets up to +35kg x 5s on the 10s (ie PBing again - good week for everyone on the boards!)
Young archaeologists club trip to renovated Buxton museum - free and worth an hour’s mooching..
S- Boy passed grade 1 xylophone with distinction - well proud given how he’s wanted to give up a few times but put the work in and enjoyed it in the end..

[fried]

S- Boy passed grade 1 xylophone with distinction - well proud given how he’s wanted to give up a few times but put the work in and enjoyed it in the end..

These are the important things in life and in power club

2 week check in repeating my same two usual indoor sessions, not really training, just trying to fit stuff in around work. Car should be back this week, and I can hopefully go outside at some point.

Only brief respite was meeting up with Kelvin and some definetely not Spanish boulderers last Friday week. Nice little session in Cuvier Rempart doing some 4s and 5s, most not in the guides. Had a couple of goes at Angle Allain but was just exhausted and lacking in food; burnt out pretty quick. Waited nearly 2h for a train back into Paris with beer.

[Coops_13]

STG: Train and get stronger, getting outside as much as possible

M:
T: Indoors at Biscuit. Good session on the 50, started adding a hard sitter to my hardest problem
W:
T: Indoors at B1. Good session, trying harder problems and finished on the 30.
F:
S: Almscliff. Did Crusis 7B fairly quickly, easy with cold connies and 36C's crazy flag beta. Flailed a bit on Keel, couldn't get back to the chip, not psyched. Almost did Underhand 7B+, failing near the end. Ticked Patta's Arete 7A at the end of the day
S: Caley, awesome day ticking low (soft) 7s. Ticked Otzi Arete 7A (+), Roof of the World 7A, Pedestal Arete 7A (+), Pancake Day 7A+, Horn Rib 7A+ (amazing) and Cream Egg Eliminate 7A (also amazing). Got close on Slapstick Arete too but fingers hurt too much in the cold.

Great weekend in Yorkshire, first good grit connies of the year for me. Vid of a couple of the problems below:

[Luke Owens]

Good weekend that Coops, nice one!

[nai]

heal finger, stay fit, conditioning & mobility

M - LI AeroCap
T - rest
W - HI AeroCap
Th massage, very painful, very sore
F - LI AeroCap, probably shouldn't have, still a bit sore
S - garage bouldering, bodyweight exercises
S mostly rest - half an hour of stretching & mobility work.

Another riveting week.  Stay tuned for more.