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Power Club 401 30th October - 5th November 2017 (Read 8840 times)

yetix

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Power Club 401 30th October - 5th November 2017
November 06, 2017, 09:32:38 am
STG: start pulling hard on grit (Captain Hook, Monochrome) and finish off Simple Simon
MTG: Get strong for 3 week Albarracin trip in December and hopefully give la Fuente (stand) a decent attempt
LTG: Brad Pitt, Paint it Black

63.5kg


M: Rest
T: Campussing - 1-4-7 x2 leading right hand +6x each side 1-4-7 touching the 7th rung. 6x each side 1-3-6, gymnastic rings (3x3 skin the cat) and 3x5 Muscle Ups (felt tired doing these this week so stopped after 3 sets) 5x5 1 arm hangs, -10kg left hand, -6kg right hand (right hand is getting stronger, but my left and slightly injured hand is having none of it!)
W: HIIT Core session
T: Moonboard - resent most of my old projects on the board. Felt the strongest I've been on the board in a while (maybe it was the pbj sandwich before climbing ha).
F: Rest
S: Quick afternoon session at Wrights Rock, repeated Fingers, and Simple Simon Indirect, before trying Simple Simon, felt close. Then got Thumbprint (which Colin told me after he probably should have given 7b -.-) before ticking off Johnny Utah
S: Stanage, quickly ticked Glass Hour (slight foot placement change from previous attempts made all the difference!) before spending my day wallowing in self pity on Captain Hook. Could not have got any closer as I fell off half way through the top out! Next weekend!

Surprisingly good week considering how busy/stressful work has been. Finger is still a little niggly but is definitely less inflamed
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 09:39:36 am by yetix »

nai

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Stay fit, strengthen body, get burly, sort finger

M - garage bouldering, GMB exercises
T - HI AeroCap, GMB exercises
W - nowt, last week's cold returned
Th - mergh
F - tried to get going but failed, set out to do 30 minutes on X-trainer but ground to a halt after 15.
S - short garage bouldering
S - even shorter garage bouldering

Poor week, cold combined with half-term. Back at it this week, Rargh
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 10:52:53 am by nai »

Luke Owens

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The Moonboard is completely nails, how anyone climbs harder than 6B+ on there is beyond me. Completely exposes just how weak I am (which is a lot more than I previously thought).

Hoping to get some gains eventually from the hangs, I do wonder how I have managed to stay so weak despite how much I've climbed/trained over the years, I'm pretty sure my finger strength has hardly changed at all in about 4 years.

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
20s Side plank (both sides)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Hanging knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Hanging knee tucks
50 Crunches

Eve: Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
20mm edge, half crimp:
R1: 9s, R2: 10s, R3: 10s R4: 9s, R5: 9s

T: Lunch - 3 x 5 IYT's (4kg)
3 x 10 Press-ups
Deadlifts: 10 x 50kg, 10 x 60kg, 8 x 100kg

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches
20s Side plank (both sides)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Hanging knee tucks
3 x 15 Dorsal raises
3 x 8 Tricep pull-downs (15kg)
3 x 10 Press-ups

Eve: Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
20mm edge, half crimp:
R1: 10s, R2: 10s, R3: 10s R4: 9s, R5: 10s

T: Rest

F: Boardroom - Warmed up on easy boulders then limit bouldering for 45 minutes.

Moved onto the Moonboard, had one go each on about 10 problems graded 6C/+, not close on any, some of which I couldn't do any of the moves. Tried a benchmark Moon 6B+ four times and fell off matching the last hold, brutal.

3 x 10s Half crimp on 20mm edge.
Assisted 1 arm hangs open crimp on 20mm edge 10s on both arms had to take off 25kg...
3 x 10s on 30' Slopers (Beastmaker)
2 x 10s 1 hand on 45' one hand on 30' slopers with a slight nestle alternate hands.

S: Rest

S: Early morning trip over to Curbar to try Gorilla Warfare, managed all the moves and linked from half way to the top. Kept punting the move to bring LH into the good slot as left heel kept slipping out of the starting flake, figured out a better way using a left toe hook but ran out of skin/time.

nai

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The Moonboard is completely nails, how anyone climbs harder than 6B+ on there is beyond me. Completely exposes just how weak I am (which is a lot more than I previously thought).

I think it exposes a weakness rather than general weakness. There's a lot of long moves and the feet-follow-hands rule means often off just one foothold and often having to get feet high or be very stretched. If you're on the shorter side problems can be over at the first move when the initial pull is just as far as the setter can reach.  Useful tool, worth keeping working on it but don't immediately label yourself weak just because you're not used to the style.

yetix

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The Moonboard is completely nails, how anyone climbs harder than 6B+ on there is beyond me. Completely exposes just how weak I am (which is a lot more than I previously thought).



I've struggled on the moonboard for sometime, feels like its paying off though. definitely highlighted weaknesses in my climbing style! stick with it :)

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Cheers guys, a few of the first moves I tried on problems were like you said nai at full stretch and the only thing to do next was cut loose then bring a foot up high to match where the lower hand is, this sort of thing seemed to be required a lot and felt really hard!

Think I'll try and pick away at some of the easier stuff on the app.

dave

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The new Moonboard setup looks like it's got a set of footjibs across the lower half, and generally got a much better a and nicer set of holds generally (inc the wooden ones), so that issue you're describing should improve.

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STG: Keep training
MTG: 7C

M:
T: Biscuit, 50 board. Put up a new project, hardest thing I've done on there for sure. Psyched!
W: Managed a couple of hours at Stone Farm. Managed Stinging Nettle Variation 7A, close on the original
T: Building One, volume flashing lots of problems. Elbows feeling sore and weak after three days on
F:
S: Gf took me to the gym and got me squatting. Worked up to and managed 100kg with not much difficulty, pretty happy about that. she beasted me finishing with some dynamic squat-style HIIT
S:

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Power Club

Mon - board climbing, very very happy, got close to last year's high point on project. Smelling the kill. Snatch pulls, 5 x 5 with top pause.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights, boxing bag.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - board climbing, warmer and more humid. Still good though. PE high 30" x 2. Dumbbell complex 35 x 1. Left elbow very achey.
Sat - boxing bag EMOM combinations 30". Hill sprints after 6 months. Brilliant start of the day.
Sun - cleans, 90% session, 5 sets: 3, 3, 3, 3, 5 61 kg. Brilliant. Weights.

Excellent week, got high on the project on Monday, then struggled on Wednesday, mainly due to poor skin and again a bad left elbow, that I must sort out. One weekly board session seems enough for the moment.
Happy about the sprints and clean.

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M - Wave - short n cr*p sess
T -
W - Wave. Better than Monday, maybe cos I spent most of the session gassing?
T - Wave. Knackered again.
F -
S -
S-

In the words of D:Ream...

gme

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Cheers guys, a few of the first moves I tried on problems were like you said nai at full stretch and the only thing to do next was cut loose then bring a foot up high to match where the lower hand is, this sort of thing seemed to be required a lot and felt really hard!

Think I'll try and pick away at some of the easier stuff on the app.

This excuse could be reversed for the tall. after we have "lanked" past the "long reach" try getting 6ft plus of body into the 2ft of space you have between the hand and foot holds you have available.
What ever size you are if you can do the problems on there its due to being not strong enough.

shark

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11.7-9 (a year high but not fat)

Easy week - or that was the intention

M.

T. Crag x. Met Nick. Back better. Bit greasy. Worked on Jericho Road with him. Turns out I hadn't got the new sequence for finish properly sorted. Tried lots of foot options with the aim of not making it so core reliant until too tired to experiment any more. Didn't get a solution. Went to Tor after and flashed Tin Of putting draws in then redpointed next go. Third go on tr fell off twice. Good to see combined session was possible. Way forward?

W.

T.

F. AM stuff.
PM Got to cragx midday. Struggled to motivate myself to even get out of the car. Nice and cold to begin with but warmed a couple of degrees as afternoon progressed. Had been thinking about options for final foot sequence since Tuesdays session and quickly worked a cool new sequence which requires a bit of hip flexibility (Nick won't stand a chance haha). Linked it off ladder then after a couple of goes and repeated JR this way. :-) Then got good links from mid traverse up to rail. Progress. Popped to Tor afterwards but no handy top ropes on Tin Of so went home

S.

S. Cragx for 1.30pm Paul, Karl B and Tom S already there. Worked Moffatrocity start. Struggled on Karls cross thru method which was a shame as it would cut four moves out of my eight move hand jive. Got a couple of decent links of the mid section. Stopped before I got too trashed.

Will probably just do Moffatrocity sessions till it gets wet seeing as I'm making progress and it will be good PE training for Greece.

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Weight: 68.0kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Nothing.
T: Nothing.
W: Nothing.
T: Nothing.
F: Nothing.
S: Nothing.
S: Nothing.

Rubbish week again. Didn't fancy running on my rolled ankle at the beginning of the week and have been too busy at the end of the week: have a professional registration interview coming up so free time is being spent preparing for that. This week will be similarly rubbish until Thursday (interview day), but I did manage to buy some new running shoes on Saturday so I'm itching to get out for a run now my ankle seems ok. Hopefully get two runs in this week: Thursday and Saturday. Will consider the week a success if I manage that!

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Week 7
Lightness strongness consistency.

Last 3 weeks weigh ins:
65.4 two mondays ago
68.0 last Monday. Decided to really bone down with the diet and sort it out - tracking macros, skipping breakfast and all that good stuff.
65.4 average last three days

So I've blown "consistency" but might still have a shot at "lightness".

M-
T-works power hour, 5k z3 run, then saw Measles23 had chastised me for lack of fingerboard action so got some (fatigued) max hangs in. 40kgs on 19mm 3x10s, 32kgs on 14mm 9s, 6s.
W-
T-7.5k z3 run, decent session at works on harder problems
F-took the kids to whirlow farm. Best steaks in Sheffield?
S-parkrun pace setting for a mate, sub 24m. 54% z5.
S-Beginners Wall in 2* temps. Reasonable session. Trying to get MoS wired. Reached final hold 9/10 attempts but only matched twice. Think I know what the issue is.
Z3 5k run.

Pretty good week really. Bit of a wrist niggle but getting the weight back on track and those laps at Beginners - it's still on!

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Goals:
Get out more
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Right shoulder seems to have relapsed a bit which is annoying.
Sleep: ok.
70kg.

M:
T: TCA, back on the blues, more progress than expected, managed another 8 or 9 I think, probably up to 7B/+
W:
T: TCA, more blues, 5 left now, running out of doable ones but pleased to have made a bigger impact more quickly on this set than the last one.
F: work, then parenting.
S: nothing, parenting.
S: nothing, parenting.

OK week.

nai

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11.7-9 (a year high but not fat)
Will probably just do Moffatrocity sessions till it gets wet seeing as I'm making progress and it will be good PE training for Greece.

Incredible that the thing you're always keenest on doing is the best training for your upcoming goal.  Most people would have guessed at sweating it out in the wall on a high volume of long, pumpy routes but turns out it's doing a traverse that's a few moves long.

shark

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11.7-9 (a year high but not fat)
Will probably just do Moffatrocity sessions till it gets wet seeing as I'm making progress and it will be good PE training for Greece.

Incredible that the thing you're always keenest on doing is the best training for your upcoming goal.  Most people would have guessed at sweating it out in the wall on a high volume of long, pumpy routes but turns out it's doing a traverse that's a few moves long.

 :tease:

Covering that base by doing a stamina session once a week - currently on Tin Of but could be AeroCap on systems board or the circuit board at the Depot.

Moffatrocity is longer than a few moves. 19 hand moves currently unless I can cut it down by 3.

36chambers

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M:
T: Indoors. 50 board. Managed a few leftover projects from last year easily. Which I was quite happy about. Although I was completely powered out after about an hour, which was quite unusual.
W:
T: Caley. Grit was called and the forecast looked bon, so had a late evening lamp session on Zoo York. However, it was far too warm for thermals and I didn't even bother putting my socks on between attempts, even after 10:00 pm. Anyway, close to getting established into the 7B finish a few times, whilst still feeling strong, only to be undone by my foot popping off.
F:
S: Brimham. Pottering about on 6's.
S: Caley. ZY felt nails today, so sacked it off. Had a quick play on Ben's Groove Assis which felt pretty good and ended up under Banana Republic 8A which felt surprisingly reasonable as well.

Psyched for more grit action.

SA Chris

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Back in the club, now clocks have changed.

S before last - Illuminator 24 km night trail race - fun.
S nothing
M- weights
T - core
W - 7 km trail run lunchtime.
T - nothing
F - first winter bouldering comp. Snuck up fast, I've not been down for about a month, so skin was thin and had to be used sparingly. finished 3rd.
S - 5 k run with kyle on bike, 10 k run without
S - 2 k jr park run with kids. Pretty disastrous, cold and windy and started pissing down, so kids were getting pelted by horizontal rain. 1 got round, with much encouraging, other dropped out. Can only get better.

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ongoing cold and very painful swollen toe joints have removed all my motivation to do anything other than go fishing and eat nice food

been for an x-ray to check possible broken toe/foot, but swelling is going down anyway - put on a normal size shoe today without wincing too much

I have, despite all the odds, lost 6lb in weight over the last couple of weeks of not posting on Powerclub

 :2thumbsup:

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11.7-9 (a year high but not fat)
Will probably just do Moffatrocity sessions till it gets wet seeing as I'm making progress and it will be good PE training for Greece.

Incredible that the thing you're always keenest on doing is the best training for your upcoming goal.  Most people would have guessed at sweating it out in the wall on a high volume of long, pumpy routes but turns out it's doing a traverse that's a few moves long.

 :tease:

Covering that base by doing a stamina session once a week - currently on Tin Of but could be AeroCap on systems board or the circuit board at the Depot.

Moffatrocity is longer than a few moves. 19 hand moves currently unless I can cut it down by 3.

Is tin of really stamina training do you think? I always find it more of an awkward traverse, rest, sharp crux, followed by a load of slab climbing with rests.

TobyD

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The Moonboard is completely nails, how anyone climbs harder than 6B+ on there is beyond me. Completely exposes just how weak I am (which is a lot more than I previously thought).

I think it exposes a weakness rather than general weakness. There's a lot of long moves and the feet-follow-hands rule means often off just one foothold and often having to get feet high or be very stretched. If you're on the shorter side problems can be over at the first move when the initial pull is just as far as the setter can reach.  Useful tool, worth keeping working on it but don't immediately label yourself weak just because you're not used to the style.

I couldn't do anything on the moon board the one time I have tried it. I know what you mean about the reachiness. The easier problems all feel like warm ups set by really strong people; which I imagine isn't too far from the truth. Still good to work on weaknesses though I suppose...

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STG - Tourniquet & Queen Kong
MTG - two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage. Would love also to do Ben's Groove Sit, Lager3, Sideliner, The Golden Egg & The Fonz.
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - rest
T - Depot. Did a bit in the main wall then went on the 50' for an hour and a half or so. Felt okay, surprised really given I'd not been on it for a couple of weeks. Also did about the 20 mins of Ts and Ys on the TRX
W - rest
T - Crookrise avec lamps. Managed Jason's Roof 8A! Good psych watching a mate climb Sideliner 8A as well; keen to try it now. Weird start to the session; did the crux move first go but then couldn't for the life of me do the move after that in isolation! Eventually worked out what I was doing wrong, had one average go from the start then sent! Out of nowhere really. Psyched.
F - rest
S - rest
S - Caley. Could have gone to Tourniquet but I must have tweaked my wrist on Jason's so didn't fancy four hours driving if it was going to let me down. Tried Ben's Groove Sit for about 3 hours. Felt fine eventually linking the first few moves but the crux double RH bump eluded me even in isolation. Such a weird body position. Repeated the stand from low feet which was good at least.

Another good week, another major tick off the list! Wrist feels better now so glad that's okay.

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Not the best week, but probably not the worst either:

Mon - Nothing
Tues - Board session when everyone had gone off to bed. Repeated a few classics, tried an old project.
Weds - Beastmaker. 5 x 10sec deadhangs on a range of holds.
Thurs - Nothing
Fri - lamp session at the Bus boulder, Inchbae. Made some progress on the Hygge Project. i.e. did the moves in isolation but no link.
Sat - nothing
Sun - Back to the Bus boulder feeling optimistic but it quickly turned to pessimism when I opened a cut under a fingernail. No more progress on the Hygge Proj, but repeated the stand twice. Annoyed not to do it but pleased that Im getting good value out of a local boulder. It's a matter of time.

nai

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Is tin of really stamina training do you think? I always find it more of an awkward traverse, rest, sharp crux, followed by a load of slab climbing with rests.

I find it a good yardstick and a way of doing a volume of climbing, helping to get you moving and get a bit of rust brushed off. A way to pass the time if you're there belaying a mate or passing by but if you're looking to train your time could be better spent indoors.

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Thumbprint (which Colin told me after he probably should have given 7b -.-)

What’s thumbprint?

And any foo know Colin + grading = horsecock

Murph wad for fuckin not forgetting fingerboard again

M- nowt
T- Woody’s: really good session on vanilla sky, actually feels plausible
W- nowt
T- Max hangs on BM micros open crimp - 7 sets up to (+35kg x 3s) x 3

Dreadful deadlift session - failed at 235 PB attempt then continued to fail at everything, only getting 220 off 2” blocks at third time of asking.. When I was younger a session like that could have really thrown me, but tbh I like the head game and strategy so will try something different next week (peak set tunes - the only constant is change by as I lay dying- obv not angry enough!)

F- long day cutting an eye socket growth out..
S- Oakamoor bonfire night (sneaky way of getting Alton Towers firework display for free)
S- Stoke AW 2hrs fluid tho still feel heavy - bunch of flashes v4 to v6, worked two of the v7s

yetix

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haha touche! me+grading is probably the same, hence I'll take what is given!

Thumbprint is simplesimon indirect minus the last move, then span across into the foothold on fingers and continue up fingers.

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skipping breakfast

FYI This is what sumo wrestlers do to slow down their metabolism.

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Murph wad for fuckin not forgetting fingerboard again


Thanks Matt and duly wadded for reminding me to not forget again. Been thinking about this though and decided I'm definitely retarded for prioritizing going to the works over getting on the board. It's all about the max hangs. Going down the wall, half the time it's a waste.

Those are some impressive numbers you're failing on these days!

Murph

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skipping breakfast

FYI This is what sumo wrestlers do to slow down their metabolism.

Thanks. I always wondered how they got so fat.


Luke Owens

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(peak set tunes - the only constant is change by as I lay dying- obv not angry enough!)

Get some Slayer on beast!

shark

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Is tin of really stamina training do you think? I always find it more of an awkward traverse, rest, sharp crux, followed by a load of slab climbing with rests.

Not my experience - I usually get a solid pump on the"slab" - but you are the Stamlord

measles23

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(peak set tunes - the only constant is change by as I lay dying- obv not angry enough!)

Get some Slayer on beast!

Wad for old school metal - haven’t listened to Slayer for over 2 decades.. duly corrected

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Is tin of really stamina training do you think? I always find it more of an awkward traverse, rest, sharp crux, followed by a load of slab climbing with rests.

Not my experience - I usually get a solid pump on the"slab" - but you are the Stamlord
I'd probably fall off it now, I haven't done it for a couple of years

 

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