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Peak low grade indoor style problems (Read 3673 times)

Schnell

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Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 11:59:57 am
My girlfriend is getting keener on outdoor bouldering to the point that she asked me for problem recommendations for a first outdoor 6A. She's more than capable physically but tends to be pretty nervous about heights and also doesn't fancy anything too techy/tricky or otherwise outdoorsy. Basically it would be great to find a few indoor style problems: not scary, positive/powerful climbing, as a way of building up confidence. Does anyone have any particular Peak recommendations at around 6A/6A+?

Paul B

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#1 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 12:08:00 pm
Tiger at BBG South? Perhaps just a smidge above your desired grade.

erm, sam

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#2 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 12:18:04 pm
The ship boulder at birchens?

nai

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#3 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 12:21:19 pm
Tiger at BBG South? Perhaps just a smidge above your desired grade.

Just about to suggest the same, probably 6A+ but just one very stiff pull so may feel harder.

Banana Finger?

tommytwotone

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#4 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 12:47:01 pm
Stuff on Joe's Direct at Froggatt? Long way to go for a small bit of rock but what's there is good.


There's the Tody's Wall area while you're there but it probably doesn't meet your "not too high" requirement.

joeisidle

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#5 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 12:48:29 pm
I'd be wary of Banana finger if she's not a fan of heights (although the holds are positive) - it's got a dodgy landing (for someone who's used to indoors) and the crux is the rockover at the end of a rising traverse. The ship boulder is lovely but more for doing a volume of 4s that will build up grit experience rather than meet the magical 6a tick, although this is still really worth doing as a confidence builder.

If it doesn't have to be on grit then I'd really recommend looking in the churnet valley - loads and loads of 6as in the recent guide, almost all on positive holds (some steep but some less so), lots of traverses for working up to the grade as well, most don't even have topouts and drop off at a positive end hold!

If it has to be on grit, go to burbage south or cratcliffe/robin hood stride having marked up a few potential candidates in the guidebook beforehand - there's loads of potential 6as at both, most of which have great landings, although they do tend to be a bit techy.

Plattsy

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#6 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 12:56:47 pm
Here's a good candidate surrounded by plenty of other stuff to do.

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/37-burbage-south-valley/boulders/170-the-brick/problems/757-steep-arete#.WfhyNHKDOAg

You can filter problems on peakbouldering.info to create a list of ones that might fit the bill.

sxrxg

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#7 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 01:56:56 pm
Love Handles at Stanage North might fit the bill. Good positive holds on a classic font 6a. It isn't lowball however it isn't a highball either, with a couple of pads it feels fine yet has just enough height to give a proper feeling of accomplishment when topping out.

Schnell

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#8 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 01:58:58 pm
Cool thanks for the replies and keep them coming. We've been to BBG Sth a fair few times and I think she even tried Tiger last time we were there. I don't remember what the verdict was. It is fairly stiff in my view. I don't think we looked at Steep Arete though, will put that on the potentials list. I'm picturing the look if I suggested Banana Finger and that worrying rockover! Likewise Tody's Wall.

Doesn't have to be grit, will look into Churnet. I haven't been so could be a good excuse for a visit.


yetix

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#9 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 02:22:11 pm
the stuff on the business boulder at stanage.

could also try the 5's on the pebble as a way of getting over the height issues on an easy problem.

tommytwotone

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#10 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 02:35:09 pm
Come to think of it the stuff on the Hairpin Boulder isn't exactly extensive, but it's not too high, has a good landing, there are a few 6s there and they're all pretty wall-style. And it's seconds from the car.

lagerstarfish

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#11 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
October 31, 2017, 06:38:50 pm
Here's a good candidate surrounded by plenty of other stuff to do.

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/37-burbage-south-valley/boulders/170-the-brick/problems/757-steep-arete#.WfhyNHKDOAg

You can filter problems on peakbouldering.info to create a list of ones that might fit the bill.

was just going to suggest the same




joeisidle

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#12 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
November 01, 2017, 12:43:13 am
Come to think of it the stuff on the Hairpin Boulder isn't exactly extensive, but it's not too high, has a good landing, there are a few 6s there and they're all pretty wall-style. And it's seconds from the car.


Definitely go here, Crash Test is pretty much exactly what you're after I think

Schnell

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#13 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
November 01, 2017, 08:14:51 am
Cool, Crash Test looks proper on the mark. On the list for this weekend! Thanks for suggestions again

thirtytwosrule

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#14 Re: Peak low grade indoor style problems
November 01, 2017, 09:23:53 pm
If you are at Froggatt the stuff around Joe's slab is maybe a bit more techy but good and I'm sure there are bits on Tody's playground that fit the bill can always jump off rather than topping out.

 

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